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PVA on treated surfaces

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Ahoy Mates :D


I use "the Original Titebond" PVA for most of my shipbuilding needs. 


I also paint or dye my wood with a water soluble oil paint and then treat it with an oil based wipe on poly (WOP) 


I am concerned about the long term holding strength of using PVA on a 'treated" surface to bond small details. I lightly sand any areas to be bonded and follow up with another coat of WOP which may or may not aide in the bond. One surface is also always untreated wood. My fear is that after a few years will these parts  "pop" off as i have seen PE do (I no longer use CA on PE for this reason) causing a difficult repair? On larger pieces my plan is to include a treenail or two but some parts are just too small or thin. 


In the pic the ladders and trim were all attached over treated wood with the method described above. Currently the bond seems very good and neither can easily be removed. I did move all of them by scoring the seam and then soaking the area with water. The steps taken and required were no different then those needed to "de-bond" a wood to wood joint and the bond seemed very strong. 


Edited by JPett
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Good question JPett and the safest answer is probably "only time will tell." 


I am concerned about the same thing but I think that the countermeasures you are taking (sanding and nailing where necessary) are  the best you can do to ensure good long lasting bonds.  I try not to do any varnishing until the very end to minimise the amount of gluing to  treated surfaces, but I think a little roughing up of the treated bit might be all you need.  As I understand it, the key to good PVA bonds is that both surfaces be porous so unless you've really enamelled your surface you should be getting  a decent bond.  For what it's worth, my first build is now almost 30 years old and going strong.

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