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testazyk

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About testazyk

  • Birthday December 18

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Auckland New Zealand
  • Interests
    16th - 18th century sailing ships

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  1. With the ship securely mounted, it was time to attach the decorative brass. I don't want to continue to talk down the quality of the kit, but the brass castings are actually quite poor. I spent hours sanding and filing off rough spots and trying to fix imperfections and then painted each piece with gold enamel. had previously sanded off any rough spots or imperfections and painted each piece with gold enamel. As far s advice on placing the pieces, in retrospect it all made sense, but I found it very hard to visualize from the plans exactly where some of the different pieces were
  2. The next task was one of the biggest challenges—building the boats. This time I took a long look at the materials supplied in the kit and decided that they needed to be re-engineered in order for the boats to look at all decent. The kit provides keels and ribs but the issue is that the notches for the ribs are positioned too far forward. As a result, the planks at the bow will have an extreme curve and the boats will look like blunt nosed cucumbers. I repositioned all of the ribs to make the curves more realistic. It was time to finish off the stern and install the
  3. It was then time for another deep breath--painting can't be undone and it was time to paint the bulwark and gallery areas. The kit suggests a light blue, but for the Royal Sun, I decided to use ‘royal blue.’ The point of the paint is to help the gold decorative work show up so a darker colour made more sense. I masked off the area and went to work. Now was the time to tackle the stern. The first step was planking. The stern of the ship has three levels of windows and doors and as usual, the kit provided stamped metal sheets. The idea is that
  4. The first step was to install the upper deck which had been provided in the kit. I’d used the side frames which had supports for the deck and the upper bulwarks. And I could get an idea of how the finished ship might look! I planked the upper deck and installed grates, and then installed the quarter deck, fo’c’sle and poop decks. If you are planning to do this kit, be sure to take some time to study the deck arrangement and spacing and to fair the tops of the frames. Also, check the layout of the various guns to make sure everything fits and is aligned properly. You c
  5. Thanks, Kevin and Learner! The gun decks would be less challenging from a technical perspective because they have much less detail, but I needed to develop logical access routes between the decks and decide how much detail to include. On a real ship, the guns would have had a lot of complicated tackle to secure them to the sides of the ship. But since this ship has no sides, there was no practical way to do all the work. In the end, I decided to just put in the guns by themselves and not include any tackle, buckets, sponges, rams, garlands, etc. Getting all of those things to t
  6. I had decided that I would put the power supply for the lights in the base of the ship and run the wires up through the bottom of the ship. I could attach the wires to the ceiling of the hold. To get the lights to the ceiling of the orlop deck, I hollowed out one of the dowels that represent the pump pipes and ran the wires up through the pipe. I could then fit the gun deck (ceiling of the orlop) and get an idea of where to put in the orlop lights. Before continuing I added some of the features to the various rooms on the deck.
  7. Once I installed the orlop deck I started putting in some of the fittings, including the hanging magazines. As I thought about building the rooms and structures on the orlop deck, I decided that I would try to finish off each deck as much as possible before moving up. That meant going back to the hold and adding some additional detail. It was at that point that I realized that it was going to be too dark to see much of the detail I was building. I researched model lighting and found a company that supplies tiny LEDs and lots of good
  8. Once I'd planked the bow and stern sections, the next challenge was to determine how to build the hold. I planked the bottom of the ship and that would determine the amount of hold floor I would have to work with. I needed to figure out where the mast steps would be located and then had to allocate the available space to create a reasonable replica of how the hold in the exposed areas would look. I discovered that the first thing I needed to do was find out how the orlop deck, the first deck above the hold, was laid out. This was important because stru
  9. The next task was to draw the details of each deck. I did this using the Victory plans and modifying them for scale and also for features that I knew the Soleil Royal would not have. For example, the Victory had a very modern pumping system and stove that would not have been present on the Soleil Royal. I knew that there was no way I could build an exact replica and that was never my objective. I did it for the challenge and to create an interesting and attractive model. So from now on, any decisions as to historical accuracy or scale were decided based on aesthetics rather than histo
  10. The last two ships I did were the Mantua Victory and the Panart San Felipe, and the next one in the pipeline was the Mantua Sergal Soleil Royal. Although the Soleil Royal would present a challenge in terms of complexity, it wasn’t going to be substantively different than the previous two big ships. I wanted to do something a little different. Of all of the ship models I’ve built, the one that seems to interest most people is the cross section of the USS Constitution. In a true "it seemed like a good idea at the time" moment, I decided to spice things up by building
  11. Hi Andy--I'm late to the party as usual! Congratulations on your Sovereign of the Seas. I'm about to tackle the same project and have noticed that everyone seems to follow the instructions and delays planking the bottom part of the hull until a lot of the deck work is finished. In your build log you raised the question of whether there was a reason for that. Having done the build, was there a reason? I have a strong preference to do all the planking first and then work on the decks. The sanding and moving of the ship during planking makes me not want to do a lot of delicate work first.
  12. Congratulations! An amazing accomplishment and I really admire your decision to tackle the carving. What's your next project. PS. I'm still behind you but only by a few days!
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