Santìsima Trinidad by jack.aubrey - De Agostini - Scale 1:90 - Full Model

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007

 

And this is the final achievement of many hours of working in building the 16 columns, painting then with blue and, last but not least, installing them between the upper deck and the quarterdeck.

 

This detail makes the area very, very realistic and I like it very much . . . . Do you agree ?

 

See you soon. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

[CaptainSteve]

Nice addition !!! Those columns really make the whole area stand out !!

[jack.aubrey]

Nice addition !!! Those columns really make the whole area stand out !!

Thank you CaptainSteve, I appreciated your comment . . Jack.

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007

 

December 29th, 2007 - Prow gratings

 

I'm now back to you with news about the gratings installed in the prow area, with its (now) completed supporting structure.

 

This new image shows the gratings seen upwards. The complex has evolved since my previous message of December 19th. I have completed the structure and I have definitely fixed it to the hull.

 

The gratings are now surrounding in their back the hull, filling completely that area. It was a matter of testing in place and adjusting something a little bit somewhere for several times before I decided to use the glue, but now it's definitely in place !!

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Dec 29, 2007

 

The following images show downwards, from right to left the cross timbers. There are four cross timbers in total and their name should be:

- stem head timber, the bigger one in the background;

- after head timber;

- middle head timber and, in the foreground,

- forward head timber.

(source: Anatomy of the ship - 32-gun frigate Essex)

 

I have painted with acrylic gold the timbers but I recognize that in these images you can have some difficulties to discover they are golden instead of the same color of the light wood.

 

I believe I need to apply some aging techniques to make the golden surface more realistic.

 

 

 

[yvesvidal]

In the domain of resin figures, the surface is prepped with flat black, before painting gold on top of it.

 

Yves

[jack.aubrey]

In the domain of resin figures, the surface is prepped with flat black, before painting gold on top of it.

 

Yves

You are right, Yves. At the time I was building this model I didn't know this technique, technique I have widely used with another model built later: the Soleil Royal.

 

 

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2008

 

I'm back with the S.S. Trinidad and a new task I'm achieving: the completion of the rudder. This time, to help understand the complex terminology, I have used a new powerful tool (multifunction laser printer bought yesterday) to scan a page of the book "Anatomy of the Ship - The 32-gun Frigate Essex". The image is here presented first, followed by my own rudder.

 

More in detail the task consists of:

1) - fixing of the pintles (26), seven in total, to the pintle straps (20);

2) - installation of the gudgeon straps (25), in their correct place:

3) - insert the nail heads in the proper places at the gudgeon straps;

4) - painting the straps with a 1st coat of paint (primer for metal) and another 2nd coat with Humbrol gun-metal.

5) - installation of the eyebolt (12) and the ringbolts (13);

 

1): The second image shows the rudder as it was left unfinished some weeks ago, with only the pintle straps installed and painted. Now it is time, following the instructions of the kit manufacturer, to install the pintles where the red arrows in the 2nd image point.

The kit instructions say: "with a fast adhesive for metals, fix the pintles . . .".

 

Thinking more about I had three choices to do this:

a - use the cyan acrylic glue (gel), needs few seconds to dry but probably not strong enough;

b - use the epoxy resin glue (not too fast, at least 15 minutes to dry, 24 hour to be completely hard), probably the best choice among glues;

c - don't use any kind of glue but perform a tin welding; this last option forces me to fix the pintle on the gudgeon straps instead of on the pintle straps which are already installed; it's probably the best choice at all provided I'm able to make a welding.

 

Finally I decided for option c) and I started to train myself to weld.

I already had the electric welder tool, the tin and the welding acid (from my father in law) so I made some trials with some brass strips and rods several times until I was sure of my technique.

Then I performed the real task, achieving a very good result.

 

2): Now it was time to mount the gudgeon straps at the sterpost and there was a significant problem: the thickness of the first (close to the pintle) was lesser than the thickness of the latter. So I had to perform seven grooves in the sternpost in order to match the two. The difficult thing was to do the grooves in the proper position. A lot of patience ...

 

But finally, by using the epoxy resin glue, I fixed them in place with a very complex operation involving: masking tape, few nails, clamps and seven hands ... and now the rudder is totally in place and is also turnable right and left without any fear thank to its high breaking strength.

 

3): Third I started to drill and insert the nail heads into the gudgeon straps. Here I had to reduce a little bit the head of the nails to simulate the proper scale. I achieved this with the Dremel power tool, inserting the nail in place of the drill bit and working on the head with a fine file until it is reduced properly. Again, a lot of patience ..

 

4): I have finally applied a coat of primer on the straps and now I'm waiting the paint becomes dry to continue . . . .

 

. . . so my amazing story ends here . . . see you next time. Jack.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008

 

Further work on the rudder.

 

Some days ago I coated with a primer (yellow) the straps and today, being them completly dry, I started to prepare the area for the final color.

 

To do so I used some stripes of masking tape in order to protect as much as possible the surface not involved in painting.

 

The first image shows the area protected with the masking tape and the second with a coat of Gun Metal applied. I had to wait a couple of hours for drying and then I applied a second coat. I think that gun metal is much more realistic than copper for the straps.

 

In the next message the final result.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008

 

Today, being the gun metal paint completely dry, I have removed the masking tape from the rudder and the result can be seen in the next two photos.

 

The work is not yet terminated because now I need to perform the final cleaning of the few places where the paint is penetrated below the tape but it is a quite simple task.

 

Last I have to apply a coat of transparent, matt paint.

This for two reasons: 1) I don't like the gloss finish and 2) I have to recover the wooden areas around the straps that I damaged during the istallation of the rudder.

 

Kind regards. Jack.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008

 

These images show the rubber area after the application of a final coat of transparent matt varnish (polyurethane enamel: http://www.drtoffano.com/toffano_prodotti/pg_prodotti.htm(italian web site)). This is a special varnish specific for modelers.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008

 

Yesterday there was a sunny day here in Milan, after a lot of days of snow, rain or clouds. So I took the opportunity and I shot some new photos from the terrace of my house to my favorite vessel.

 

As special gift of the new year I attach here some of them.

 

Kind regards

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008

 

January 24th, 2008 - The stern galleries

 

Having, for the moment, finished to work around the rudder, I started a new task: the stern galleries and decorations. This will be a long and complex work, so I don't expect a quick final achievement in the near future but a lot of step by step intermediate milestones towards the final objective.

 

The first step to do is to build two structures on the hull sides. These structures will became the background of the right and left quarter galleries: the work consists of 1) preparation and 2) installation of three bulkheads per side that will be later planked vertically with strips of mm. 2 x 5 of ramin wood.

 

The first image shows, highlighted in the circle, the starboard side gallery structure when finished and sanded. This was the first I have built and I started planking from left to right. The result of this method was some troubles on the right portion of the structure where I had to perform additional refining work to achieve a reasonnable result. Anyway the result sounds good to me.

 

The second image shows the same structure on the larboard side.

 

Here I adopted a different method of planking: I started from the left, applying two shorter planks before, then a second plank on its right side with a blunt-ended upper side, and finally all the other planks to cover the structure until its end. Very much simple and quick: power of the experience . . . sometime I believe one should build at the same time a model twice to obtain the perfect one . . . the first to make experience and the second to make excellence . . .

 

That's all for today. See you next time. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008

 

I have found two pictures of the Santìsima Trinidad in two different books. The first one is more similar to a plan and shows the ship probably in its pre Trafalgar livery, with black wales and yellow between them. The hull seems also a little different vs my model in the area of the forecastle and the poop deck. Also the rigging seems different: three yards for each mast instead of four . . .

 

The second one is more pictorial but most probably shows the ship livery during her last battle, where she was greatly damaged, captured and sunk.

 

I don't think to adopt one of these liveries for my model but I post these images hoping they can be useful to understand better the history of this ship or to another modeler who prefers finishing his own model in this way.

 

Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Jan 27, 2008

 

I have recently found, surfing on the net, the complete plans of the Santìsima Trinidad. These plans are for the "Occre" kit but are also perfect for mine. In fact my model, published on a weekly magazine by DeAgostini, is an enhancement of this spanish kit.

 

The availability of these plans is of strategic importance for me and other people building the same model from DeAgostini because the latter doesn't supply any kind of plans. So you can understand the great benefits of having them, especially for the future rigging activities. It also can help very much in foreseeing/understanding some works and consequently plan better the future tasks.

 

I want also take advantage of this message to explain and show you my last works. They are very small details on the ship but very, very difficult to achieve.

 

1) Installation of the two lower gallery supports: they are made with cast metal and, as usually, do not absolutely fit in their place. I have spent two to three hours in adapting them and their cradles in order to achieve an acceptable result. Finally I have definitely mounted them using epoxy glue (very strong). Anyway there where many long narrow openings that I had to fit and fill with small pieces of wood. Last, the usual final refinemens and three coats of golden paint.

 

2) Installation of the catheads and its supporters. The holes in the hull were previously done but I had to adapt the whole to match the right angle (determined by the two horizontal cathead supports made with cast metal). Here I have some images to show you detailing this latter work.

 

That's all for today. See you next time. Jack.

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008

 

The works around the stern side galleries are progressing slowly, but this was forecasted. At this stage you have to proceed with extreme care, expecially to ensure a correct alignment with the decks (or better where it is supposed they are).

 

Next step will be to apply the woodden frames to the windows . . .

Some paint retouch will be then necessary at the end but it's still a long way. And at last there are the stern central galleries, much more complex but hopefully of great satisfaction.

 

The quality of these four images is not the maximum, mainly due to the poor light available or the bad guy behind the camera. Probably the last two images are the better in terms of color.

 

See you next time. Jack.

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008

 

I'm still working on the poop galleries. It's a never ending story . . .

 

The new work around the stern side galleries consisted of several things; first of all I realized that the ivory color paint I applied on the windows frames (made with brass and in accordance with the instructions) was at risk.

I wasn't sure the paint was able to remain strongly achored to its brass ground using the cyanacrilate glue, so I decided to remove it and to come back to the original natural brass.

This means that my Santìsima Trinidad will have golden window frames instead of cream . . a good point of personalisation.

 

Second I had to apply around the window frames some wood strips that are clearly visible in the attached images.

This was a work of great patience but nothing more. As anticipated I used the cyanacrilate glue for this task.

 

Last I had to apply the two upper galleries supports. They were made of cast metal and, again, they didn't fit at all in their place.

So with time, a lot of patience and a file I removed the exceeding metal to make them fit properly. To fix definitely them I used the bi-component epoxy.

 

Later I finished the whole areas by painting with gold both the lower than the upper galleries supports. I also tried to age the golden parts but my efforts were not enough and it is now quite invisible. I have to find a better aging method.

 

I believe that the proposed images here below are much better (in terms of quality and colors) them the same I attached to my previous message: here the colors are influenced only that the winter light, nothing else. . .

 

Kind regards. Jack.

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008

 

These are the quarter galleries of the larboard side of the ship.

 

If you compare the same images from the other side of the ship you will easily note that here the upper quarter gallery support fits a little differently in its place.

 

I tried to remodel the metal piece (when seen from the top it has a different curve and shape vs the other) but it wasn't possible to obtain a shape equal to the starboard side. Hindsight it should be better to scratch build it for an hard wood block but ... now it's too late.

 

This problem is a symptom of the poor quality of the cast and I believe it's a common problem you can find in the most commercial kits. Another arrow in the quiver of scratch building ....

 

Regards, Jack.

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sun Feb 10, 2008

 

My first attachment shows the next battlefield: the stern galleries.

 

After the experience I made with the quarter galleries I believe this new task will be a much simpler battle . . . but I'm ready for any kind of hazard . .

 

The other images show one of the main pieces of the stern galleries, made with a cast metal that can be easily manipulated and adapted to the surface where to position it: the stern frame (or framing ?).

 

Before to install it, it's better to paint it, it's much simpler now than once mounted in place.

 

First I have applied a coat of blue paint and after two (for the moment) coats of golden paint. The gold paint is applied with a "customized" brush, with the bristles cut very short. The brush is used "quasi" dry to avoid painting the area that needs to remain blue.

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Feb 22, 2008

 

The work on the stern galleries is progressing slowly, but it's anyway better than nothing . . . .

 

In this period I'm undertaking several interests that are diverging my mind from ship modeling: in the last 15 days I spent very few time working on my models.

From the other side more of my time was focused on finding a car for my daugther (at the end I decided for a new one), a home helper for my mother (87 years old) and in reviewing and deciding the venue where to spend my next summer holidays.

 

The images here attached, shot yesterday Feb. 21st, show the work-in-progress on the stern: I'm applying the wooden frames at the windows. Today I have made another few progress but it's now sunset and there is not enough light for taking good photos.

 

See you tomorrow .. Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Feb 23, 2008

 

Here are the latest images, shot today Feb. 23rd, of the stern galleries. I have finally completed the installation of the windows wooden frames and I have applied the gold enamel where necessary.

 

The work is finished at 98%, the only thing remaining is the aged look and feel. I have no experience about these techniques so I need to document myself and, once find one I like, make some tests and go further.

 

Apart the aging, now I have to start working on some completely new things. The instructions give me several choices: from the poop rails to the head, including the figurehead, passing through the channels, deadeyes and chains. Another task can be the definitive installation of the guns. So I have plenty of choices to select and the only need is to find and dedicate enough time and efforts to achieve results.

 

I hope to be back early with new things to show you. Jack.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Thu Feb 28, 2008

 

As I said in my last message there is plenty of tasks to do on the model: in spite of my previous list I decided to build the side steps.

 

Considering the huge size of the Santìsima Trinidad's gun decks also the side steps are quite impressive.

 

The kit manufacturer instructions were to use two kind of stripes to build the steps: a mm. 1x4 stripe and a 2x2 stripe, both in sapele wood. I decided instead to change the kind of wood: boxwood for the 1x4 and walnut for the 2x2. Especially the boxwood was for me a very good choice.

 

An important thing was the building process: I made a kind of sandwich made alternatively with a 2x2 stripe and 1x4 stripe glued together one over the other for six times.

The new stripes, approx 12 cm. length, were then cut in small pieces of two different lengths (18 o 8 mm) and refined with sandpaper.

 

The last task was to fix them on the hull sides with some points of glue, a final coat of matt transparent paint and . . . . the work is done ! Time elapsed two sessions of 1 hour and half.

 

The first two images show the starboard side steps and the remaining two the larboard. In the last image you can also see the skid beams, for raising barrels, etc. and to protect sides against boat being raised, close to the steps.

 

Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008

 

I don't have any new work to show you but I want to include two new images of the stern galleries, where I have now applied a coat of transparent paint, and to other images of the side ladders from a different perspective.

 

Regarding the side ladders I have to decide about the color.

 

Looking at some photos of the HMS Victory in Portsmouth, I have seen that these pieces are painted with yellow where the sides are yellow and in black on the wales.

I'm thinking that also on the spanish ships this rule should be the same, so I'm considering to leave unpainted the ladders over the clear wood and to paint with black where they lay over the wales.

 

Any suggestion ? Regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008

 

Yesterday I have completed another interesting task: the construction of the poop rails.

 

To achieve this (for me) good result I did not follow the kit instructions but I used a different method and different materials.

 

First of all the small columns I used. They were not supplied by the kit manufacturer (the supplied was a brass rod to be cut at the proper length). The columns I used were a remainder of a previous kit (Le Mirage from Corel built by me 30 years ago).

 

The first image shows these small columns.

 

Second, the total number of columns used, I used more or less twice the number suggested by the kit.

 

The last image is an overall overview of the ship. You can also see that I have painted in black a part of the side ladders.

 

Regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Tue Mar 04, 2008

 

A closer view of the side steps that I painted with black . . .

 

To the next issue. Kind regards. Jack.Aubrey

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008

 

Building the main mast channels

 

Last monday I started to build the mast channels (I have found they are also known as chain-wales; is it right ?). First I started with the two main mast channels, then the mizzen channels and last the fore channels.

 

Main mast channel: it's the bigger of the three kind of channels. The overall length is 135mm. and it is built starting from a piece of mahogany with a thickness of 2mm. The wood supplied for this task was very good and it was enough to me, for achieving a good refinement, to clean it with sanding paper of different grains.

 

I followed the kit manufacturer instructions: I had to drill several holes for the chain deadeye/shroud chain places at the proper distance and position. The diameter of the hole(s) was of 1mm.

 

But my main problem was the fear that the glue on the thickness of the wood was not strong enough to support the future manipulations so I decided to:

- make 7 holes (0,75mm. diameter) in the thickness of the channel where

- I have glued, with the cyan-acrylate, some brass pivots of the same diameter, leaving them prominent 4-5 mm;

- I have then made the opposite holes in the side walls;

- I have removed the paint from the surface to glue to provide the best support to glue;

- I have installed the channel with vinylic glue and

- a bit of cyan only near the pivots and

- I let time to all to dry.

 

Then I have applied the channel support brackets in the proper position and I performed the usual tasks to clean the piece from the glue excess.

 

To complete the work, a coat of danish oil. I decided to use the danish oil instead of paint because it allows in the future to use without risks both vinyl and cyan glue. This work was done last monday; two days later the oil was totally absorbed by the wood and now it is totally matt and smooth like paint. The color of the mahogany wood, from the other side is greatly highlighted.

 

The first image represents the starboard side main channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008

 

Building the mizzen channels

 

Tuesday I started to build also the mizzen mast channels.

 

Mizzen channel: it's the smaller of the three kind of channels. The overall length is 75mm. and it is built with the same mahogany wood of the others. The building process is exactly the same of the main mast channels; the only difference is that now I have used only four pivots due to the smaller length.

 

The first image represents the starboard side mizzen channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Mar 22, 2008

 

Building the foremast channels

 

Wednesday I started the building of the foremast channels.

 

Fore channel: the overall length of this channel is 105mm. and it is built with the same mahogany wood used for the other channels. The building process is totally equal to the one of the main and mizzen mast channels; here I have used six pivots to strengthen the installation.

 

The first image represents the starboard side fore channel, while the larboard side channel is shown in the second image.

 

At the time I shot the images I had just finished to apply the danish oil, so the channels seem gloss. This is due to the fact that the oil was not yet absorbed by the wood. Today, after some days, the oil is totally dry and the appearance of the structure is the same of the others.

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Fri Apr 11, 2008

  

Here follow two images that anticipate the hard work I have done this last week on the prow area (figurehead, rails, cross timbers). In the next days I will write a more detailed report about the work done. Kind regards, Jack.Aubrey

 

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2008

  

Here are two detailed images of the head. The main improvements vs 15 days ago are: 

 

1) the installation of the figurehead, this task will be explained in a future message, 

2) the installation of the three rails (main rail, middle rail and lower rail). 

 

I made a lot of thinking on how to install these rails because it wasn't an easy task. At the end I decided to use the epoxy glue (two components to mix together before their usage) because I consider it the most powerful glue for this kind of situation and I had to temporarily fix the rails to their beams with very thick steel nails, later removed. I took a total of two days to install all the rails but the result is very satisfactory. 

 

When the glue was dry, I made the necessary cleaning tasks and I have applied a first coat of polyuretanic black paint as primer. 

Then, to follow, two coats of golden poly paint.  

 

 

[jack.aubrey]

Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2008

  

The Figurehead: the images that I'm here showing you are details of the Santìsima Trinidad's figurehead. 

 

The installation process: 

in theory the installation of the figurehead is very, very easy. You have only to 1) select the right glue and to 2) glue it in place. 

 

But for me this task wasn't so easy. 

 

Here is the reason: after the installation of stempost and knee of the head I accidentally broke it. This happened some months ago and I had to repair the broken pieces by re-glueing them and to apply some reinforcements to be sure the same accident cannot occur again in the future. 

 

The result was an increase in thickness of these pieces: the original thickness was 6 mm. and the resulting new was close to 8 mm. This made for me impossible to insert the legs of the figurehead in the proper place. 

 

So I had to work on the seat of the figure in order to make possible the installation. I had to properly carve the wood in that area until the figurehead finally fit in place. After that the work was easy. 

 

See you soon. Jack.Aubrey