Kurt Johnson Posted January 17, 2015 #1 Posted January 17, 2015 When building POB double planked kits is it better to apply the stem, keel and sternpost to the false keel, BEFORE or AFTER, planking the hull. I've seen both ways in different builds. Which way would more likely give the best results? I'm a little about the after process. Kurt Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
NMBROOK Posted January 17, 2015 #2 Posted January 17, 2015 Hi Kurt I typically rework the kit if the stempost keel and sternpost are part of the false keel.I fit the stem and keel after first planking and fairing.I leave the sternpost until after the second planking.This allows you to lay the second planking overlength and trim everything in one go,making it easier to get a nice tight join to the sternpost. Kind Regards Nigel Mirabell61, hornet and CaptainSteve 3 Currently working on Royal Caroline
Kurt Johnson Posted January 17, 2015 Author #3 Posted January 17, 2015 Nigel, You surely get good results! Doesn't it make in more difficult to get the aligned correctly? I'm most likely try your way. Kurt Member: Ship Model Society of New Jersey
NMBROOK Posted January 17, 2015 #4 Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue. Kind Regards Nigel Edited January 17, 2015 by NMBROOK Brian the extraordinaire and Fam 2 Currently working on Royal Caroline
Fam Posted January 17, 2015 #5 Posted January 17, 2015 Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue. Kind Regards Nigel Very useful tip, Nigel, I'll use it for my Brick de 24, too!Thx Fam NMBROOK 1 Joint building: Brick de 24, 1/48, jointly with Jack Aubrey (POB from Ancre plans) Works in progress: USS Constitution Cross Section, 1:93 (POF bashed from Mamoli kit) Completed models: Santìsima Trinidad, 1/90 (POB heavily modified DeAgostini kit) Genoan Pinco, 1/50 (POB bashed from Euromodel plans - my current avatar) Viking Knarr, 1/72 (POF from Dusek kit)
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