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Hi Kurt

 

I typically rework the kit if the stempost keel and sternpost are part of the false keel.I fit the stem and keel after first planking and fairing.I leave the sternpost until after the second planking.This allows you to lay the second planking overlength and trim everything in one go,making it easier to get a nice tight join to the sternpost.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

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Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel  and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Edited by NMBROOK
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Thank you.I always try to have the stem and keel joined together before fitting.This joint can then be clamped to a flat board.I clamp something straight to the keel  and stempost when gluing in position.Generally anything long enough I have laying around,this can be as simple as a long metal ruler edge on,or even a spirit level if the keel is large enough to warrant it(no use for the bubble,just for it's straight properties).When the glue is fully dry,I then pin with brass or copper wire and epoxy glue.

 

Kind Regards

 

Nigel

Very useful tip, Nigel, I'll use it for my Brick de 24, too!

Thx

Fam

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