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Posted

Hello all

 

I am rigging my Amati American Cup Endeavour 1934. I have a question about how to dilute the PVA glue for securing knots etc. What ratio of Water/PVA do you use? Shall it be heavily diluted or just make it float?

 

Br

Jörgen   

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted

Thanks Keith

 

How long must I wait until I can trim ends etc? At the moment so doesn't I got any strength without a tiny drop of CA. 

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted

I would give it 24 hours :) It takes a long time for diluted PVA to dry. In reality I have trimmed it when it felt dry, but there's no harm waiting a bit longer. After all, you have a tonne of other rigging to do in the meantime!

Regards, Keith

 

gallery_1526_572_501.jpg 2007 (completed): HMS Bounty - Artesania Latina  gallery_1526_579_484.jpg 2013 (completed): Viking Ship Drakkar - Amati  post-1526-0-02110200-1403452426.jpg 2014 (completed): HMS Bounty Launch - Model Shipways

post-1526-0-63099100-1404175751.jpg Current: HMS Royal William - Euromodel

Posted

Not at this starter kit of Endevour. Was trying to trim and test the force after some minutes...... :) 

Thanks for the help.

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

Posted

If you use natural fiber rigging material and you care how long the rigging will last, consider using bookbinders/archival quality PVA.

Lineco Neutral pH Adhesive is one brand that is available.  The pH of Titebond II  is 3.0 - which is fairly acidic.  Not much negative effect on a closed wood-wood area,  but rigging is all open to air surface area.  Although we need it to live, oxygen is destructive to organic materials that do not have active repair systems (are living).

NRG member 50 years

 

Current:  

NMS

HMS Ajax 1767 - 74-gun 3rd rate - 1:192 POF exploration - works but too intense -no margin for error

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - POF Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - POF Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner - POF framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner - POF timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835 packet hull USN ship - POF timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  - POF timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - POF framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - POF framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Posted (edited)

I use casco indoor woodglue. It has Ph 6 and when diluted with water it should be very close to neutral. Think this will be OK.

I have now wait to the day after gluing for the trims etc. Much better result:).

I'm happy that this work because I didn't liked the appearance of dried CA. Thank you all for the help.

 

Br

Jörgen

Edited by Jörgen

Jörgen
 
Current:  Sherbourne - Caldercraft 1/64

            Vasa - DeAgostini 1/65
Finished: Endeavour - Americas Cup J class 1934 - Amati 1/80

Other:    Airplanes and Tanks

 

 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

If you keep a small air tight container with a diluted white glue 50/50 mix on hand, when opening the container for use I suggest stirring first. there can be a bit of settling of......  Nightingale

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