Rich.F Posted October 26, 2014 Share #31 Posted October 26, 2014 Hi Peter any pictures? Thus why I ripped them all off to start again.. follow this link this is where i have ordered mine from http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/caldercraft_sheathing.html Quote Rich. Builds in Progress: HMS Victory Completed Builds: Constucto Enterprise Future Builds 2021/2022 USS Constitution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share #32 Posted October 28, 2014 Thanks for the link Rich. I am hoping I can sort it by doing the second side and learn from my mistakes. So far , touch wood, it looks better. I have pulled off a few tiles and used them for the cut tiles I need so I think my wastage is low . Once I have done the stern on side two I intend to go back and do side one so fingers crossed. At the moment I am about 8 rows down midships so early days, Shipyard Sid's pics look helpful so we shall see Its a long job Rich.F 1 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted December 15, 2014 Author Share #33 Posted December 15, 2014 Well I am almost finished with the tiling!!! Despite my best efforts I managed to get some tiles to overlap and there are some that are misaligned but I sure aint taking them all off. I am going to try a bit of copper paint for the white gaps. There is a limit to how small one can cut and fit slivers of copper. The problem also arises where the fine end tends to curl up and get caught. Super glue would solve the issue but generally I found the "No nails worked well. I also managed to get some glue on the top and missed wiping it off so I have some cleaning up to do. I am not too sure about the stern tiling and may take it off. In doing the bow I clad the sides and trimmed the tiles back to fit and then tiles the narrow underside. I am in the process of cutting back the edges of the keel tiles and the result looks OK. There is an issue where the tiles come off if I am too heavy handed in filing the edges but I think so far this is a better way of dealing with the keel. If ever I do this again I will have to find a way of dealing with the little bits where the keel joins the hull. An under layer of copper tape looks worth trying. Anyway here are a few pics garym and msberkman 2 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn-UK Posted December 15, 2014 Share #34 Posted December 15, 2014 Looks like a job well done. Quote Glenn (UK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.F Posted December 15, 2014 Share #35 Posted December 15, 2014 Hi Peter Very Nice work, Well done indeed, I have not done any more yet no time.. Quote Rich. Builds in Progress: HMS Victory Completed Builds: Constucto Enterprise Future Builds 2021/2022 USS Constitution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share #36 Posted January 20, 2015 Its nice to have a change from copper plating and get back to building bits. I have been on the gratings. I had trouble deciding which way round the comings went. I found the plans difficult due to the line thickness but ended up with 4mm wide and 3mm high. Still not sure its right so my companion ways may be a bit small. Found the shot garlands fiddly but I am OK with the result. My mitres on the comings are not as good as I would like. I have also had problems with the hull painting. I tried low tack masking tape but the paint bled under the tape. The same with normal tape so I am trying to touch in by hand. It would be nice to get an air brush and mitre guide but its time & money. Here are a few pics Does anyone have any tips for drilling the holes for the dummy gun barrels? It seems to me its difficult to get them central and at the right angle. Has any tried a guide fitted into the ports and a spirit level, it looks fiddly? garym, GuntherMT and msberkman 3 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn-UK Posted January 20, 2015 Share #37 Posted January 20, 2015 Hello Peter The gratings look fine. I too had trouble with bleeding with the paint. I'm using tamiya masking tape (from CMB). I was advised to press the tape edge to the hull to get a really tight fit, I found using a finger nail does the trick, and then when the paint is dry to remove the tape toward the painted edge. I have tended to fix my hull bleed problems by fitting small sections of tape to the affected areas a bit at a time. I too have been pondering the dummy gun fixings. I think I'm inclined making a guide out of balsa through which I can pass the micro drill. I'm a few weeks / months away before I have to give it some serious thought however. peterwwebster 1 Quote Glenn (UK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted January 30, 2015 Author Share #38 Posted January 30, 2015 Thanks to Glennard for the advice on Tamiya masking tape. It works much better than low tack masking although I had some slight bleeding. I have now started looking at rigging the cannon and I am sorry to say I think Caldercraft's guidance is very poor. I had a look at McKay's book "The anatomy of a ship-Victory" which does not give any line drawings but there are two useful photos although they do not answer all the questions. I have had a trawl on the internet and found this web site http://www.ianlawrencemodels.com/gundeckwip10.html I am not an expert model maker but this page ties up with McKay so I will try this method. I think its well worth a look to those about to embark on this part of the kit. Having had a quick look this seems to be a useful web site Glenn-UK 1 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted February 1, 2015 Author Share #39 Posted February 1, 2015 I have started rigging cannon. I am not used to such fiddly work so its not easy, my fingers seem to have turned into carrots and its very annoying when the block ping out of the tweezers or forceps. Si far i have retrieved about 4 from strange places so I will find out in due course how many I lost. I finally sorted out a rig for hopefully getting the rear tackle all about the same length and to help with whipping the excess line around the rigging as pic in instructions. Given the difficulty i decided to only do the visible cannon even thought I need the practice so five done five to go! I also think it is easier to for the eyelets after the rigging.It very difficult to thread the rigging through the eyelets when in the hull. Time will tell I also need a moan about the build instructions. Given the cost of this kit and the time its been around It would have been nice for the errors to have been sorted. The most recent issue is on page 16 where the main companionway balusters are numbered (724) whereas the parts list has them as (723) which is correct. Not a major issue but!! garym 1 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn-UK Posted February 1, 2015 Share #40 Posted February 1, 2015 Nice work, The key is finding a method that works well for you. I found rigging the gun deck cannons really hard work and I didn't do it to well. I had the same sort of problems, big hands, small cannons, lack of proper tools and poor eyesight. I found a method that worked well for me for the quarterdeck cannons. I also invested in small additional tools, such as a helping hand tools and magnifying glass which are a godsend for the blocks. I also tried and added coiled ropes which I was pleased with. Quote Glenn (UK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted February 2, 2015 Author Share #41 Posted February 2, 2015 Yes, think coiled ropes would be better I will try that elsewhere. I have also just realized the rigging I have done is too long but its easy enough to redo. The worst bit was attaching the blocks. I have now got super glue all over the place. Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted February 16, 2015 Author Share #42 Posted February 16, 2015 I am about done with rigging the visible cannon. I think it would be easier to rig the eyelets before they are fitted to the hull because I found it difficult to get the tread through the eyes when in the deck. I did that with the back tackle drilled holes in the deck and popped the eyelet in. I gave up trying to thread the breaching tackle heavy thread through the eyelets. I am inclined to remove the eyelet and drill holes in the planking just to poke the thread through. I think it will give the thread a more natural line. On advice I don't intend fitting the steam trunk so main deck will be fitted shortley garym 1 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted April 8, 2015 Author Share #43 Posted April 8, 2015 Hello everyone I have been busy building and discovering problems with my build and seem to have not posted anything for ages. Sorry. I think there are lots of good build logs on this site which show you how to do it so I thought I would add some of my pictures to show how not to do it, in the hope that those who follow can avoid making the same mistakes. My main issue has been in fitting the forecastle bulkheads. When the stubs from the main hull bulkheads were removed there is nothing to locate the forecastle bulkhead (part 276). it seems impossible to glue ply edge on to a curved surface so I ended up removing some hull planking and gluing on some wide timber and then super gluing the ply bulkhead onto the back. Lots of filler and paint will hide the join. I also missed the clue where this bulkhead is fitted in line with the step on part 270, page 5, so I now find the space between the forecastle and quarterdeck bulkhead where the capping rail 392, page 21, is fitted is 6 mm too big. Having said that the error in my placing of 276 is nothing like 6 mm so something else is amiss. A I know its seems silly but I was looking for the galley stove chimney as on page 21. No number is given so I had to search the parts list and there it was part 646. There is no picture so I hunted through the white metal and there it was , I think!. See photo By way of a little light diversion I started looking at the Bows page 30. Here we find hawse hole balusters and again the part is not numbered. It turns out to be part 172. There is no good illustration of this but the part supplied has three groves which I assumed are to take the two hawes ropes. Two into three don't go so I decided to make my own version the same size as the original but with two groves to take the two hawes. I don't know if I am right but !! I also managed to get in a muddle on the planking having decided to mark the plank lengths with a shallow saw cut and pencil marks. I tried to take the module across the central gap over the skid beams and obviously with hindsight got it wrong. If I every do this again I think I will try cutting planks to the right length and sticking them one by one. It cant be as bad as the copper tiles. Anyway onward and upward garym 1 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share #44 Posted June 7, 2015 Hi All, I have been very lax in posting pictures so sorry. Anyway I have been busy building and her are some pics to prove it mort stoll, garym and Harvey 3 Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.F Posted June 7, 2015 Share #45 Posted June 7, 2015 Take a very Nice Shape Peter, Keep up the great work. Quote Rich. Builds in Progress: HMS Victory Completed Builds: Constucto Enterprise Future Builds 2021/2022 USS Constitution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 9, 2015 Author Share #46 Posted June 9, 2015 How easily I get confused, it must be my age or something. Looking at the side entry steps, how is it the photo 038 page 41 shows the entry steps to the left of the entry port but the plan sheet 5 shows them on the right. I intend looking at various build logs but !!! Anyway onward & upward Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pompey2 Posted June 9, 2015 Share #47 Posted June 9, 2015 Hi Peter Just been looking through your log, only just found it. Wow you are certainly shooting through with the build. My Caldercraft Victory is taking years by comparison. You are making a fine job of it, I hope you are enjoying the trip. Nick Quote Current build USF Confederacy Previous log - HMS Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ensign Posted June 9, 2015 Share #48 Posted June 9, 2015 Peter, simple explanation, the photo 038 was taken on the port side while plan sheet 5 shows the starboard side. Regards Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share #49 Posted June 10, 2015 Told you it was my age!! If only they had stated the obvious!. Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 10, 2015 Author Share #50 Posted June 10, 2015 Hi Nick thanks for your comments. I should explain I have a disabled wife and don't get out much. If you do a bit everyday then progress is good until you are careless and have to redo things. I do enjoy the build although is difficult when one spends hours rigging cannon and then hiding them. I hope you enjoy your build Peter Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share #51 Posted June 23, 2015 Help! I have been sitting fitting the brass window inserts into the stern fascia on evening and somehow managed to loose one window. I have looked high & low, vacuumed the chair and gone through the stuff in the hover with no effect. I have been trying to make a new window by painting the frames on celluloid, gluing scrap brass strip together, cutting holes in brass plates but nothing seems very promising. Has anyone got and bright ideas please Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn-UK Posted June 23, 2015 Share #52 Posted June 23, 2015 I feel for you. Worst case you can buy a new set of brass photo etchings from CMB, quite expensive. You could also try ringing JoTika, the've helped me out in the past for the odd replacement part Shipyard sid 1 Quote Glenn (UK) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shipyard sid Posted June 23, 2015 Share #53 Posted June 23, 2015 Hello Peter Yep I reckon Glen will be correct in telling you to phone them. It should be no problem for you. Give them a call. DAVID Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich.F Posted June 23, 2015 Share #54 Posted June 23, 2015 Sorry to hear that mate, Hope you get it soon (look forward to pictures) Quote Rich. Builds in Progress: HMS Victory Completed Builds: Constucto Enterprise Future Builds 2021/2022 USS Constitution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peterwwebster Posted June 25, 2015 Author Share #55 Posted June 25, 2015 Thanks for the advice Guys. I looked replacement brass fittings and it looks like you have to but the whole lot The price CMB give made me fall off my perch. The moral of the storey is only work on a table with a large sheet under it. I will call JoTiKa. Quote Caldercraft Victory Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.