Swift 1805 by PopJack - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Virginia Pilot Boat - Older version

[PopJack]

Well, Wayne- you are right.  After I quit whining like a spoiled brat, I decided I was not going to be able to look at this boat with that mistake on it.  So today I took a small set of side cutters and cut through the braces and removed them.  I peeled them off rather than lifting, and they came off with only a little trouble.  I had applied oil to the mast prior the glue and I think that kept it from bonding to strongly.

 

There was some damage to the mast- but I was able to make the new braces to fit in nearly the same location and cover it up pretty well.

 

I then made the dead eye braces and soldered the dead eyes in place. 

 

New Braces

 

In Place

 

 

Deadeyes.  The ones that look burnt look that way because... wait for it....

 

they are burnt.

Anyway, the brass is soldered.

Edited July 6, 2013 by PopJack

[PopJack]

The box shows the rigging done in two different colors.  The standing rigging is shown in tan and everything else in a thick white.

 

Interestingly, the kit only came with two weights of white cotton thread- a heavy cord like kite string and a thread.  (remember, this is the OLD kit)

 

I wanted to be more authentic (if not perfect), so I got some black thread and made rope.  I don't have a rope walk, but I do have a power drill.  The first rope I made had three cords of three threads.  This was too thick for the boat (by my eye, anyway). So I made some with two cords of two threads.  This is actually a bit thin.

 

I'm thinking the Goldylocks rope may be either three cords of two threads or two cords of three threads.

 

Deadeyes are finished up and on the hull.  Will be starting standing rigging soon.

 

============

I've also been wondering why I hate re-work so much.  I'm thinking its because I've made furniture for money.  When you mess up a piece of furniture and have to rework it, there is a considerable cost both in materials and in time.  Additionally, if you have used dyes or stains on the wood, it can be very difficult to make the replacement piece look right- differences in grain will change the amount of stain different pieces of wood of the same species takes, and dyes mix differently.

 

Anyway, although I will probably never be patient, I've got to realize that my current lumber supply is probably around 1000 board feet of various woods and frankly., I could build quite a few model boats and not put a dent in it.

Live and learn.

Edited July 6, 2013 by PopJack

[PopJack]

Started working on the standing rigging.  I tried to tie a monkey's fist- I thought that it was likely that was used on real ships. 

 

Tying a monkey's fist at this scale is WAY beyond what I can do.

 

Edit:

Just found out that the traditional know was a Matthew Walker knot.  It looks hard to do on full scale, but when I have time I'll see if I can do one on "scale" rope.  I'm not really that confident.

 

Edited Again: Well, the traditional knot is not a Matthew Walker, its something else.  One of my leassons from visiting the Constitution, though, was even at 1:1 its hard to see the knot's makeup and it's not a big as I thought.  Also, the loose end of a deadeye wasn't handled like I thought it was- live and learn.

Edited July 17, 2013 by PopJack

[PopJack]

Finished the standing rigging today and could close in and finish tomorrow if I just followed instructions.

 

There are two things bothering me right now.  First, I want to put some sails on her.  Thanks to Mr. Rogers, I now have a plan to make them from.  I've been wondering about silly things like, "how white" should they be?  I've made up some tea so we'll see what they look like.

 

The other thing is the connection between the masts and the spars.  The plan and instructions show what I have done.  That is, there is a brass strip bent around the mast.  In reviewing period paintings there appears to be some justification for this- quite a few of the paintings show the joint as a painted strip that could well be a piece of iron or something.  That said, some also show no joint at all, they if you took them literally, the mast was drille and the spars hammered into a permanent joint.

 

So, the question becomes, "do I leave well enough alone" or do I "do the dreaded re-work thing," remove the sparts, make jaws and parrels, etc. etc.

 

I will make a decision tomorrow.

[PopJack]

Here is what I did this weekend.

 

First, I decided to leave the spar attachments.  The plans were followed and the result, if not accurate, is at least reasonably acceptable to the eye.

 

 

 

I started on some of the running rigging using kit provided rope.  I didn't like the look of it- too light and too bland, so I found some thread I liked and got out the power drill.  Half an hour later I had some rope I like better.  I'm thinking its too thick, but it only has a total of four threads in it, so.... well, we'll see.

 

 

 

 

Finally, I made some paper sails and with the help of SWMBO started making them.  First time for everything- hope they turn out.

 

 

[PopJack]

Comments invited, btw.  As a beginner, I'd appreciate any input- even if you think I've done it wrong.

 

(Just be nice- I can be kind of sensitive)

[4whelr]

PopJack,

How's this for being kind?

Excellent work!!

Eddie

[russ]

The rigging looks pretty good. The shrouds are not that thick. I think they will work.

 

I have made my share of sails for schooner models. One thing I would encourage you to consider is to keep the shape of sail so that it can be properly peaked up. Too often, I have seen sails for this model where the gaff is at too shallow an angle. It just does not look right. Giving the sails a bit more angle along the upper edges will pribably make for a better looking sail.

 

Russ

[PopJack]

I ordered some scale people off the internet to put with my model.  I did not want to make a dinaroma dynorama diaroma one of them things where the boat looks like it is part of a real world scene, so I ordered white people at 1:48, the scale of the model.

 

I was intending that others would understand the size of the boat- but it turns out that I was the first one surprised.  This was a BIG little boat!  I had imagine it much smaller.

 

The photos here don't really give it justice, because the contrast isn't good, but in real life they look nice on the boat.

 

 

 

 

The only down side is that I think the companionways are way out of scale- this of course from a dry-lander, but I did visit a couple of ports recently.

 

 

[russ]

The companionways might be a bit large, especially in their width. Overall, this will make a nice looking model. You are doing good work. I think the figures will add some life to the completed model.

 

Russ

[trippwj]

Nice job!

[themadchemist]

Did I read sail patterns?  hum...... I wonder how a chemist could aquire a set of these?

 

as far as comments as to whether your doing it wrong. You've far surpassed me (how am I so slow) and I'll change everything anyway so you probably don't want me muddying the waters. I think she looks fine though and I like the little guys also.

[PopJack]

Concerning Sails: I have courtesy of another member, photos of the sail plans on the new model.  He carefully marked dimensions on them as well.  The new model mast positions and spar sizes are not identical to the old one, but I used them as guides for the new model.  PM me an email and I'd be happy to forward the photos.

 

Concerning Speed: I believe it is safe to say that our objects are quite different.  You are making a work of unique art, I am building a model on which I am experimenting to learn.  Art takes longer!

 

Rus: I agree that the main problem with scale is the width of the companionways.  These are big enough to be a entrance into a grand ballroom.  That said, like you, I think they are passable from a aesthetic viewpoint.

Thanks for the comments Wayne. I've tried to learn a lot on this model while creating a unique gift.  I'm thinking it will do.

[PopJack]

Spent some time on her today.

 

First, I finished the sails.  Each edge seam was sewn and a rope threaded through.  I realize this is against most advice, but the seems are very small and I think they look good.  I also added the reefing lines in accordance with the diagrams supplied for the later kit.

 

 

I find it amusing that I asked to borrow one of my wife's needles for the reefing lines.  The one she gave me has rust spots and a bent tip.  At least I don't have to worry about messing it up too much! 

 

 

I put the job sail on and some of the running rigging.  I am not sure where to belay the sheet for the jib sail- and am really hoping I used those terms correctly.  Little sailor gal, however, seems comfortable with the work, and had found a home in the rigging.  How she got there without ratlines, I don't know.

 

I really want to add ratlines, but the ships at Mystic Harbor comparable did not have them and neither do the ones painted for photographed where I have found them.

 

I hope to complete the running rigging and be ready to fix the sails in an inflated position tomorrow.  I already know how I'm going to mount here- but I'm looking for the right supplies.

 

[russ]

I also hand sew sails for my models. Yours look very good. Nice work.

 

Russ

[PopJack]

Well crud.  Last night I worked very hard on a post that included lovely pictures and I see it isn't here.  I am sure I looked at the preview and exited without pressing "post" - I've done it before.

 

So, to repeat:

The sails are all on and I'm mostly happy with them.  There are a few problems, but such is life.  The MAIN issue is that the model does not have enough points to belay the sheets.  It was clearly designed for the spars alone.

I'm going to have to do a bit a reading and review some photos to see what to do about this.  For example, the stay sail has two lines that have nowhere to go. 

For anyone who is adding sails to this old model, note that it does not have near enough mast hoops- my kit had five per mast and there should have easily been twice that many.  I didn't recognize the problem until the mast and spars were stepped and mounted and I haven't come up with a good way to add any.  Additionally, of course, they should be wood and not metal.

 

Anyway, here is a photo.  I should have cropped it, but it looks rather dramatic, so I'm leaving it "as is."

 

[themadchemist]

looks good PopJack

I agree on the belaying pin situation. Dubz (its in the gallery section) has her rigged but some of the rigging is hard to see due to the angle and resolution of the pic's. Also I've been questioning how is the back sail on the front mast secured at the bottom. Rigging is going to be tough for me as I haven't a clue about it.

 

The copper really looks good with the colour scheme.

I've also already made mast wooden hoops as you suggest, I really hated the brass rings, I may have to make more though sounds like, as I can't remember how many I made

.

I've been struggling along attempting to make a binnacle for DSotM, which has been a pain as I going with a new version.

[PopJack]

Thanks for the comments.  I too really like the way the color and such worked out.  Too bad no one would have seen that copper in real life!

 

Please excuse the following- I know I have the names wrong, but I hope I'm making myself clear.

 

I've got some photos of real pilot boats I'm studying.  The most surprising thing to me so far is that the rear sheet for the stay sail (that is the topmost sail that is attached to the stay from the forward mast to the top of the flag mast- shown in some diagrams as a "fisherman's sail") actually attaches to the very end of the rear boom.  I have no finding of where the forward sheet would go, but it would be near the main mast somewhere.

 

AS A HINT: If you are going to put a full set of sails on this boat, you need to leave the flag mast thicker than indicated in the instructions.  It becomes structural when it has sails on it, and the instructions (not considering sails) suggest you taper it to a very fine point.

[PopJack]

Put a few minutes on her today.

 

First, I worked on the replacement anchors I bought.  Everything came in brass and light wood, so I did various things until I was happy with the way they look.  I hung them on some home-made rope (drill press version- I dont have a rope walk), and took some black thread to seize the rope.

 

I don't think the color of the seizing line should not actually be black, now that I think about it, but I like it.

 

I made several rope colls for the deck and some hanks to hang for various jobs.  I tied off the sheets, boom ropes and rigged a rope for the tiller, so that the tillerman could go downstairs for a cup of tea on occassion.

 

Here she sits today.

 

 

 

 

Finnally, I am seriously considering how to display her.  I have an affinity for rocks I suppose, for this rock is really appealing to me. 

 

[russ]

The anchors look pretty good. The color of the metal and the stocks looks good. Nice work there.

 

Russ

[4whelr]

PopJack,

Sweet, I like it!! Hope the rock idea works out.

Eddie

[PopJack]

Well, I'm definitely closing in on this one.

 

Today I finished my rope coils and hanks.  I'm not completely satisfied with the rigging- there are lots of things technically wrong that bug me, but honestly, I don't know how the ship was actually rigged and I think that it looks nice. For example the sheets are sometimes tied directly to eye bolts with a coil of rope nearby, when I know that there should have been more.

 

But, I am happy.   Especially given the kit and my level or ability and patience, I think she looks pretty good.

 

I selected a rock and bored holes in it, bored holes in the false keel.  I've known how I was going to mount her for weeks.  The photos below show my "mock up" to see what I thought.  I stole the idea from a photo I saw somewhere- maybe even on this board.  Thanks to whoever did it first, and I am sorry I don't know your name.  I think I've given it enough of a twist to "make it mine."

 

As soon as I am happy, I will put glue water on the sails to make them billowing and fix the lines stiff so that they will hold the sails out as though in a strong breeze.

 

I think I will probably lower the whole boat about one inch, but I like the pitch and yaw.  SWMBO says its too steep because you can't see all the work on the deck, but although I love and respect her opinion, I"m thinking I may not follow her sage advice.

 

After everything is mounted, there will be touch up, of course, and that should be that.  If anyone is interested, I might post the text of the book I'm writing to go with it for my brother and his betrothed.

 

(BTW, that hat does NOT always hang on the door knob.  I'm not sure how it got in so many photos!)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[russ]

So long as the model is secure I think it will work. I would worry about the model getting knocked around though.

 

Congratulations on your completed model. It is very good work.

 

Russ

[PopJack]

Thank you for the compliment. The rock outweighs the model by a couple orders of magnitude, so it is very stable.

 

Why do you think it would get knocked around?

[russ]

The stands that connect the model with the rock just look really fragile.

 

Russ

[PopJack]

Ah, I see- thanks.

 

Everything will be epoxied in and so they will be very sturdy, but I will look it over again.  I had been thinking that one one hand the metal rods made it look like it was "floating" but on the other hand that they made it look "fragile."

 

I am definately going to shorten them (which will reduce what is sometimes called the "L/R Ratio") and will look at beefing them up with some kind of tubing as well.

 

Thanks for the comment.

[captainbob]

She looks lovely.  Just like she's sailing.  Good job.

 

Bob

[4whelr]

PopJack,

Excellent work! Love the look of the mount!! Congratulations on a fine build!!

Eddie

[PopJack]

Someone the other day said they hoped their post didn't get boring... well, me too.

 

After considering the looks of the test mount, I decided to do two things, first shorten the mounting height relative to the rock and second increase the apparent strength of the mounting.  I decided to use something black, so that if you saw it, it would appear strong, but it wouldn't stand out.  In then end I decided on copper because its easy to work with and cheap at this scale.

 

I found some copper pipe with an internal diameter that would slide nicely over my brass rod.  I cut it to length and then for the back support hammered one piece closed.  After a couple of test, I set the length and rounded the end with a sander.

 

Following this, I pickled it and painted it black.

 

On the boat, I use the mount to place it in a sideways, nose down position.  Once there the sails billowed nicely.  I mixed up 1 part white glue to 4 or 5 parts water and painted the sails.  I also coated one rope that needs to stay stiff with CCA.  If that isn't stiff enough, I'll add a wire later.

 

Finally, I shot the rock with lacquer to bring out the colors a bit more (hope it wasn't too much- finding and drilling the rock wasn't all that fun).

 

SO, I'm holding my breath waiting for everything to dry and hoping it all comes out Okay.  We'll see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[PopJack]

Well, I guess the fat lady has sung.  I am have smoothed the bottom of the rock and will glue felt on it to protect furniture.  I may- or may not create a label for the rear transom showing the home port.

 

The allegory I'm writing to go with it doesn't have anything to do with anything, so.... I guess this is it.

I've enjoyed doing this little boat and I have learned a lot and gotten better at some things.  Thanks for those who came along for the ride.

 

 

Id be happy to comment on why or how I did anything that anyone is interested in- and, as most always, welcome any comments or criticism or ideas for "next time."