normanh

Progressing steadily again have started to paint the upper hull and I have prepared the lower hull for assemby.
 
G Factor Screws ready to fit
 
Pontos pedestals fitted to the lower hull with captive nuts bonded inside the hull with some old P/S i had laying around.

More progress this week, finally painted the lower hull last weekend in preparation of fixing the two halfs together, done yesterday and the upper wooden decks fitted. The decks arn't a bad fit by any means but they do need careful handling as some details are just not quiet right a number of hatches were typical 25 thou out of position as where the anchor chain pipes so a little bit of trimming was needed. the one frustating thing about the Nautalis deck is that its designed to use the plastic steps in the kit, I am using the White Ensign P/E so I have to fill several gaps in the deck. Some of the deck fittings are a bit more out to the deck and I am going to have to insert some pieces up to 40 thou wide in places.
 
Paint the anti-fouling red oxide was on the limit for mt aztech airbrush even using the largest nozzle I have for acrylic paint it is a hard job and I had to start again after rubbing it all down - Tamiya XF9. Anyone considering a hull this size it might be worth looking for a rattle can of automotive paint, the colours are very much like that.

Progressing steadily again have started to paint the upper hull and I have prepared the lower hull for assemby.
 
G Factor Screws ready to fit
 
Pontos pedestals fitted to the lower hull with captive nuts bonded inside the hull with some old P/S i had laying around.

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I have located the pictures relating to this build and I am hopefully going to post them in same order but withouth the build comments I am affraid.

This not the start of the build but is the current stage which is about 80% complete as i have been of the model for several months now, the previous stages I am affraid were lost in the old site crash.
 
I will be adding the picture trail from the start once I have knocked then into a suitable order.
 
The kit comprises of the Trumpter Arizona plus upgrades from Trumpeter which includes all of the 5/6 inch barrels, Nautilus Wood deck, White Ensign P/E upgrade, Brass Screws to replace the plastic ones in the kit, White Ensign Anchor Chain Plate. One thing I have noted is that the Trumpter P/E is really soft and the stairways fall apart far to easily - anyone comtempating their use should consider heat treating them to harden the up. New anchor chain is now planned - its likely I'll purchase a self colured black chain at 16 links per inch.
 
The main superstructure has been completed ready for locating on the main hull, the stack and ships boats are compete as is the main armament and AA Guns and ^ inch guns.
 
The Lower hull is in preparation for paint with the "A frames and shafts located"
 
The Upper hull has been partially painted in Grey and the black bootstrap applied - I have made that at 4 mm wide as its the smallest width tape I could easily locate.
 
Latest news is I have been looking to fit the anchor chain plate on the forward deck but have encountered some problems with the compatibility of the 3 main components - Trumpeter forward deck section, Nautilus Wood deck and White Ensign Anchor plate. Whats transpired is that the wood is exact as far as I can tell is acurate to the moulding but the chain plate has been designed to overcome the faults in the moulding and is exact to the orignal drawings which renders its use difficult in the planned configuration I have. For the builders who count rivets to the nth degree thats fine but for those who are looking for a practical build it becomes difficult. White Ensign have been great in trying to assist in the build throughout. i have decided to make a compromise at this stage and now omit the chain plate P/E even though at first I thought I could work around the issues but in  the end I have decided its not worth the effort.
 
I intend to post the long file of pictures on the build from the start possibly at the weekend as I have been holding back until the site stabilizes having  lots the 3 Caldercraft builds adding up to some 2000 posts.
 
 

Guys - I wouldnt use bitumen if I was you its simply not uv stable, I realise its in small amouts but the thinner the bitumen film the shorter life it will have. Bitumen needs to be protected from surface oxidation. In commercial applications this can be very relevant. I am a former bitumen chemist with a stack of text on the subject based on data published by Shell. In a thin film application it can reduce to dust with light esposure, grades are usually a straight PEN grade typically represented by the numbers 25 to 300 or an oxidised Grade based on two numbers such as 95/25 these numbers relfect the test reults in simple mechincal tests used in industry.
 
Norman

Luckily the Posidrives are very much out of view, the wood finish looks like a weather tinted varnish that has heavily weathered where exposed and less so where sheltered which would give a problem if i were to oil the timber with such like teak or tung oils the oil will not penetrate the oak timbers, removing the varnish will be difficult as i have smashed up my left hand recently
 
Norman

Hi Jan
 
The carriage is a modern replica sometime from 20th Century how can i tell - posi-drive screwheads, the brown colour is either a varnish or a coloured wood stain. The bore is blocked about 30 mm from the muzzle and is about 35 mm diameter. It was sold as a replica but is interesting to me as it makes a change to the stationary steam pumps I have in the garden of which one has a naval background its off a Canadian built minesweeper.
 
Norman

Luckily the Posidrives are very much out of view, the wood finish looks like a weather tinted varnish that has heavily weathered where exposed and less so where sheltered which would give a problem if i were to oil the timber with such like teak or tung oils the oil will not penetrate the oak timbers, removing the varnish will be difficult as i have smashed up my left hand recently
 
Norman

Hi Jan
 
The carriage is a modern replica sometime from 20th Century how can i tell - posi-drive screwheads, the brown colour is either a varnish or a coloured wood stain. The bore is blocked about 30 mm from the muzzle and is about 35 mm diameter. It was sold as a replica but is interesting to me as it makes a change to the stationary steam pumps I have in the garden of which one has a naval background its off a Canadian built minesweeper.
 
Norman

Not been around much in the last years due to workload but now I have retired I looking to get back into the hobby. Picked up this model today, its a naval style carriage with a larger non ferrous metal barrel, I was told it wasn't brass/bronze but I am happy with it as a garden ornament, its too big for the house. The barrel looks to be a model field gun type , no markings seen so far. So the question is what colour should I paint the carriage for weather protection red or yellow ochre?
 
I think its approx 1:4 scale.
 
Norman

Not been around much in the last years due to workload but now I have retired I looking to get back into the hobby. Picked up this model today, its a naval style carriage with a larger non ferrous metal barrel, I was told it wasn't brass/bronze but I am happy with it as a garden ornament, its too big for the house. The barrel looks to be a model field gun type , no markings seen so far. So the question is what colour should I paint the carriage for weather protection red or yellow ochre?
 
I think its approx 1:4 scale.
 
Norman

Hi Jan
 
The carriage is a modern replica sometime from 20th Century how can i tell - posi-drive screwheads, the brown colour is either a varnish or a coloured wood stain. The bore is blocked about 30 mm from the muzzle and is about 35 mm diameter. It was sold as a replica but is interesting to me as it makes a change to the stationary steam pumps I have in the garden of which one has a naval background its off a Canadian built minesweeper.
 
Norman

Have had issues with the chain plate on ther forward deck as its not designed for use with the Nautilus wood deck, it was designed to correct errors in the kit so I am leaving it out as theres to much bashing to do.

Not done to much these last few months but put a few bits together today, the superstructure is just at the fitting stage but the secondary armamount is fixed.
 
norman

More progress this week, finally painted the lower hull last weekend in preparation of fixing the two halfs together, done yesterday and the upper wooden decks fitted. The decks arn't a bad fit by any means but they do need careful handling as some details are just not quiet right a number of hatches were typical 25 thou out of position as where the anchor chain pipes so a little bit of trimming was needed. the one frustating thing about the Nautalis deck is that its designed to use the plastic steps in the kit, I am using the White Ensign P/E so I have to fill several gaps in the deck. Some of the deck fittings are a bit more out to the deck and I am going to have to insert some pieces up to 40 thou wide in places.
 
Paint the anti-fouling red oxide was on the limit for mt aztech airbrush even using the largest nozzle I have for acrylic paint it is a hard job and I had to start again after rubbing it all down - Tamiya XF9. Anyone considering a hull this size it might be worth looking for a rattle can of automotive paint, the colours are very much like that.

I am waiting for HMS Hood in 1:200 hopefully that will be on the cards with Trumpeter. Next to build is the Dreadnought but shes 1:350 a tad easier to move around, the Arizona has stretched my limits in both skill and space to maximum she is big at just over 36 inches long but its the level of detail as well in her. Currently I not a 100% sure on how I intend to mount the model - whether it will be on the plinth you see here or whether she will be mounted directly to the base of a cabinet yet to be purchased.
 
 
 
 

Progressing steadily again have started to paint the upper hull and I have prepared the lower hull for assemby.
 
G Factor Screws ready to fit
 
Pontos pedestals fitted to the lower hull with captive nuts bonded inside the hull with some old P/S i had laying around.

Have had issues with the chain plate on ther forward deck as its not designed for use with the Nautilus wood deck, it was designed to correct errors in the kit so I am leaving it out as theres to much bashing to do.

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