thibaultron

I can't understand why the orgininal instructions showed the forward leg of the main mast rest on the deck.

Time to make some space and fit it properly

The forward mast was made with the usual material, pe, plastic, brass, hair.
I'm glad with the result but I can still work to improve my pe handling skills


When the masts glued the model looks like a proper Tico cruiser.

 

Chris
I'm so pleased that you've gone ahead to commission some new figures in appropriate poses to go in the cabin.  The responses above about uniform accuracy etc show how highly we are interested in this.
I've said before that your figures are the best available, certainly at 1/64, so the more you are able to extend your range, the more popular they will be!
 
Nipper

Kit is still available.   
 
Please note-  contact me via PM if you are interested.  I will reply to that message using the pm function.
 
If you post a reply to this thread here saying, “I am interested- please send me a shipping quote”    and then get an email as the first reply, offering  to sell the kit if you pay via Friends and Family-  someone is likely trying to scam you.   
 
I will only reply to an initial contact via PM-  that way you’ll know it is really me.

This is an “opened for inspection” copy of the lovely kit of the Mary Byrne, an Australian Colonial era brig from 1826.    The kit is laser cut, with high quality fittings, and comprehensive plans and instructions.   (There are a few build logs here on MSW showcasing this fine kit!)
 
The kit sells for about $235 plus shipping new.  I am selling my copy for $117, plus shipping from New Hampshire.   
 
I have only sold a few books here on MSW, but I have great references from Hyperscale, RCGroups, and Ebay I can share with anyone interested.  
 
I’ll take Paypal, venmo, etc..   I’ll use Pirate Ship to keep shipping costs down.  
 
Why am I selling it?   Simple reason, I’ll never build it, and I want to buy a laser cutter!
 
If you want any other photos, or me to check something in the kit- please ask.
 
-Bill
 
 

Agree, the coat tails look long for practical wear, especially on the standing figure.
I'd question the standing figure's coat lacking a vent or split from the waist down; that may make sitting down difficult (though ladies skirts seem to work well enough).

Digging around, I found this page of a (modern interpretation) of 19c uniforms of interest.  At the bottom of the page are images of a dress coat (with lace) and an undress coat (no lace) flanking a modern copy http://www.goblinrevolution.org/costumes/navy/.

Note, all three coats have horizontal pockets, missing on both the preview figures, together with a vent.

This wiki page may also be of interest:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Navy_ranks,_rates,_and_uniforms_of_the_18th_and_19th_centuries
The portrait of Sir Edward Pellew at the top of the page shows pockets on his coat tails.
If you scroll down the page, there is an illustration of 1795-1812 uniforms (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Navy_ranks,_rates,_and_uniforms_of_the_18th_and_19th_centuries#1795–1812), with different ways of wearing epaulettes depending on rank; for example, commanders and captains with less than three years seniority wore only one epaulette, while lieutenants had none.

Going back to the figures in this post; based on his cuffs, the standing figure would be either a mid-shipman or a lieutenant, and shouldn't wear epaulettes.

Photo caption: "Chris and his assistant discuss Vanguard's latest project."

OK, thank you, I have sent better details to the carver.

I think so, Chris. The tails come to a little above the knee. Check contemporary full-length paintings.
 
 

Really cool! Would be a nice addition to my Sphinx build

Needs to be shorter?

Also, the length of the tailcoat?

I'm not too sure about the rear view of the standing figure, there seems to be an unnatural look to the upper body, and the coat looks odd without tail vents, as per the sitting figure.
 
B.E.

Yes, these are the very first renders, to see if I am happy with them. I am, but there will need to be small changes based on the best way to produce them.

What I've been waiting for, thank you Chris.
Presumably there is more work to do on the figures before they go into production?
 
B.E.

would make a nice diorama setting on its own

I'm going to do that.

Just another thought - you said there's no hobby shop near you; what if you call the guy at Big Rich Models who curated your electronics? He'd probably be happy to talk you through debugging the boat.

If anyone wants to build this model boat.  There is a Marx version on eBay right now.  The Marx version has metal parts which I think are superior to Lindberg's plastic ones. You would have to paint the metal parts to make them look like chrome but that is not hard with spray paint.
The price is probably prohibitive though. They want $299 plus $74 shipping.  That price is close to a Dumas wood one on eBay that is similar.
 
I would like to have both but not at that price.  I would like to make another with a white hull.  There is a Lindberg Sport Fisherman boat for $425.  I would like to make that too but I think it is too expensive.  Off all I would like to try my hand at the Dumas Chris Craft Commander.  It is listed at $325 plus $30 shipping.  I just might spring for it and start another log so everyone could watch me crash and burn.  I usually work in plastic.
 

Thanks Ian.  If this boat ever hits the water you will have a big hand in getting it there.

Bob, your model 3150 motors are definitely brushed; if they were brushless they would have three leads.
 
Your post #7 shows your ESC is the "brushed" type, ie for brushed motors.
 
Interesting that everything works with the deck off. All components are therefore good. Sounds like possibly RF interference.
 
I see from your pictures that the leads from ESC to motors are pretty long and loopy. Brushed motors generate a lot of electrical noise as the brushes pass from one coil to another via the commutator; this electrical noise can then be radiated by the long motor leads. I recommend you try soldering small capacitors, say ceramic 0.1uF leaded, right at the motor terminals. This is a classic configuration to reduce noise from brushed motors; one capacitor from each motor power pin to GND (the motor metal case) and a third capacitor between the two motor pins. See this pololu description:
 
https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J15/9
 
As they say, it will also help to twist each pair of motor leads together in a spiral from ESC to motor, so the two wires "cancel" each other's radiated emissions.
 
Finally, and I realize this would affect your trim and ballast, try moving the rear battery up forward beside the other one so its noisy lead isn't near the Receiver and ESC. You could then twist the leads from batteries to ESC for the same reasons.
 
You're very close........eyes on the prize!!   👍
 
 
 
 

I was playing with the transmitter trim and I think I caused the problem.  I had the decks off and everything was working even the rudder servo.
 
When I put the decks on the trouble started.
 
If I replace the ECS what are the specs I an looking for. I think I have brushless motors and the ESC needs to match.
 
The Transmitters have a receiver included.

If the motors are acting like that, it sounds like the ESC turns them on, has an internal protection alarm of some sort (short? overcurrent? temperature? other?), shuts motors off, and waits the "reset period" before trying again. Check the motors are actually 12V not 6V, maybe.
 
Later Edit:  I found a photo on pg1 of your log. The motors are clearly labelled 12V 4.5A; the ESC is quoted as 30A continuous.
 
Are you starting up with throttle at high? Try turning on with throttle at neutral then slowly increase speed and see if motors are ok up to a certain point where problem occurs again. I'm not familiar with those "land" Transmit units with the wheel and trigger which I always associated with cars; I always use aircraft Transmitters.  There must be a separate switch for fwd/reverse then trigger goes from zero to full speed in selected direction?

Strange happenings. I tried to operate the R/C equipment. The Tx and the Rx were bound. Things worked like before when the motors turned in a stop and go, stop and go manner. 
 
Then everything quit.  My volt meter’s batteries were dead.  I will still check the voltage. 
 

I broke off two of the plastic handrail stanchions while working on the electronics. I am a clutz.  That's the reason I haven't finished my Cutty Sark model.  I keep hitting thin plastic parts and braking them off.
I got these metal stanchions on eBay.  They are from an old Marx version of this boat.  It had metal parts but the Lindberg version has them in plastic. 
I sprayed them chrome this time. The davits show what they look like unpainted.