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P_Budzik

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Everything posted by P_Budzik

  1. Airbrushing for Modelers 101 series is now up ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p2QPqwDV2ys Paul
  2. It's 3M Blue Plastic Tape, look for it at an auto body supply. Paul
  3. My latest video on "Masking Techniques" might be helpful ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo Paul
  4. Tip dry is always a problem with acrylics. To be safe, at least a .3 mm nozzle. There are also some thinners that retard settiing (acrylic paints are more like plastic) but you will have to test compatibiltiy. An example would be Gunze's Mr Leveling Thinner or Tamiya X-20A. Paul https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0
  5. I put up this short video to help answer some of the email questions I've been getting... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZDujJy5wdI Paul
  6. Since you are thinking of pinning this topic, these links might be helpful. With larger models like ships, I really recommend using a large airbrush or a miniature spray gun. You will find that the better atomization will return a much smoother and finer surface finish, especially for primers. These two videos help explain... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo This will help to understand air pressure and setup... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U5BAqPQCpGg This one helps explain what airbrushes work best for specific applications.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0 I also have a webpage devoted to airbrushes with some additonal information... http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html I hope these help, Paul
  7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X2_YEoGunu0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6gI9ljJsdo Paul
  8. David... I know cost seems to be a limiter for a lot of guys, but it is a choice. I've been addicted to airbrushes for nearly 50 years and I have to admit I own more than I can count. I show a fraction of what I use in my construction articles and on my airbrush web page here ... http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html I will be adding to it from time to time, but I think it gives you plenty of information for selecting the right airbrush for the right job. There is also some interesting historical information that will explain how some of these airbrushes are of really limited use for modelers. To date, I've never found a universal airbrush that will do everything. Paul
  9. Thank you David, Certainly you can spray more volume by changing the needle and nozzle, but as I have expained in the video, you can not adjust the tightness of the spray pattern as you can with an airbrush designed for larger areas. It's the large tight pattern that will reduce the overpray and give you enough volume to keep the paint wet over something as large as a model ship hull. You really need to experience an airbrush of this type and see the results, inorder to make an educated comparison. Paul
  10. I just uploaded a video with techniques for waterslide decal application... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chCLz7xnnZQ Paul
  11. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M_-v7-Wp6no I hope you find it useful, Paul
  12. Not sure it this helps, but I used to do my own photoetching with supplies used for making pc boards. Here is a link to an old article, on the technique, that I did for FineScale Modeler Magazine http://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/photoetch.pdf Paul
  13. Nope, Photoshop is a bitmap editor, it barely handles vector. Trace it in Illustrator and stay in Illustrator. Once it is traced, it will be a vector and you can specify the wieght of the lines. Paul
  14. If you have Illustrator or Corel, you could import your bitmap and run trace. That would give you a vector drawing that you could specify line width and scale without changing line weight. Usually autotrace makes more nodes than necessary, but you could give it a try. Do a Youtube search for how to use the function if you're not sure. Paul
  15. Scan your document at the highest optical res that your scanner will do. Take it into Photoshop and bump your levels up so you get a nice contrast. Might hit it with a pass of Unsharp Mask. Size your document in inches/mm but keep your pixel count up. Select the white area and then go to Select - Modify - Expand and put in 1px , delete the selected area and see what it looks like. You might have to play around with the resolution and expand number, but it should thin the lines out for you. Paul
  16. A short video that is a basic and essential for the way that I've come to do things... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEo_clQ0-nA Paul
  17. may be of interest as part of your bag of tricks. I find it indispensable. Please read the description below the YouTube player for a link if you're interested in locating a source. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZaXWFM6zbLc Paul
  18. Thanks for the warning. My bottle is very old as well. Paul
  19. Thank you so much Robin. I would very much love to see the photos. Paul
  20. Thank you the tips. I do have both McGregor books so that's a step. Looks like the London Museum packed up all the ship models a while back, but found some photos of the model in Sydney that should help. Paul
  21. Those castings look outstanding, could you share your method? Paul
  22. This may seem a bit obscure, but many (40) years ago while living in San Francisco, the maritime Museum was a favorite haunt. There was a small counter at the entrance where they sold books. One day I noticed an old yellowed thin booklet with a title from the Thermopylae Society. I should have bought it, but like so many times we always think that ...next time. Is there some group or such that maintains more detailed information on the Thermopylae? It seems that all the information that I see involves a fair amount of speculation as to deck arrangement, rigging, and most details etc. Of all the tea clippers it is the one that I have been fascinated by the most. Does anyone know of a good source for plans of this ship? Thank you, Paul
  23. Bob is correct. If you want to get into casting brass, you are going to have to become proficient at lost wax casting. For small parts, the metal is most commonly melted with a torch in the crucible of the casting machine. It is very different than casting low fusing metals. At minimum you will need a burnout furnace, casting machine and torch. Unfortunately your friends kiln won't be of any use. So what you want to research is lost wax casting. I've done a lot of gold casting, but I've always farmed out my brass parts. There are methods for casting very detailed parts in white metal, but I am not familiar with the steps. I thought I had heard it involved centrifugal casting into rubber molds. These castings are from Paper Labs and keep in mind they are 1/350 Paul
  24. Here is the corrected video, my apologies and thank you for being patient. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBji-Oz3J7E Paul
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