Cap'n Rat Fink

Here is a look at the oarlock bases.

Here is what the skiff looks like with all the major work done.

The bottom has a plank keel with a small skeg forward and a larger skeg aft.

Here is a look at the bow area.  
 
Russ

With the outer and inner trim added along with the stern frames and chine log, the seats can be fitted.  
 
Russ

Once the hull is planked, it comes off the jig and the real fun part begins.
 
Russ

I am in the process of building a series of large scale skiff models for some friends. I thought I would share with you the first one. This is a very simple model, somewhat similar to the smaller 1/24 scale skiffs I have built for the past several years. This skiff design is compilation of my skiff research from about 15 years ago. One really neat feature is I can build several skiffs off the same design and then fit and finish them in different ways. No two can or will be alike.
 
Hope you find this interesting.
 
Russ

Thank you all.
Nils, assuming that you're referring to thimbles, it might be another presentation for this...
Thx
 
The ruler in in cm.

Hi all.
In my last model (is coming soon) I've been challenged to make some more metal work.
So I decided among others to deal also with the shackles. You know, the nautical item shaped as the Greek alphabetical character "Ω”...
I didn't want to spoil my lazy way of making models, so I made relatively reasoning...
Perhaps someone has also found an "easy" way to make shackles but I'm happy with my way.
Consider, I managed to make 12 pieces in 40 minutes, with minimal failure...and there are over 30 shackles in my model.
Just give me a few days time, to set up a presentation.
 
Thx
 
 The ruler is in cm.
 
 

Skylights and Ship's Wheel
 
I've been on a several month hiatus from model building, during which progress has been rather slow. However, over the last few weeks, I have been able to get back to my project. Here are the latest results....
 
  The Skylights
 
HMS Erebus and Terror each had two skylights located on the aft of the upper deck. Both follow a design originally adopted by HMS Terror in 1836.  The sides of the skylights were rimmed with panes of glass to allow sunlight into the captain’s cabin and officer’s mess. Unusually, their tops had no peak or even a slight camber – attributes confirmed by the daguerreotype and the NMM model of Erebus. Interestingly, the daguerreotype indicates that the panes were not protected by brass rods as was standard on many Royal Navy vessels of the era – an indication of the peaceful aims of  the expedition. In addition, the aft skylight on HMS Trincomalee, which is very similar to those used on HMS Erebus and Terror, provided important details for my recreation. 
 
The 1836/1837 and 1839 plans for Terror/Erebus indicate the skylights may have had collapsible sides, at least on the starboard. This would have permitted ventilation, if necessary, though the plans seem to indicate the ultimate aim was to enable the skylights to be used as makeshift companionways.  In this scenario, it is likely the roofs of the skylights would have been removable. I opted not to model these aspects of the skylights, as I had no information on how these features were designed.
 

Laser cutting the wheel components.
 
 
Comparing the parts to the plans.
 

Preparing the plastic stock for the windows. I use electronic
blister packaging for this. It is crystal clear, quite thin, does not discolour
in the sun, and is easy to work. 
 

The window panes were inlaid as one strip. I 
scoured and sanded the interior to simulate
window frost (and to obscure the inside of the POB ship). 
 

The completed skylights.
 

 

Mini-Crozier stands next to the his skylights. 
 

 
 
The Ship’s Wheel
 
The 1836/1837 and 1839 plans of HMS Terror and Erebus show that their wheels were slightly smaller than those typically used on Royal Navy ships, being more consistent with those used on merchant vessels of similar size. The recently recovered portion of  Erebus’ wheel, as well as the Le Vesconte daguerreotype, reveal that the wheel itself was relatively plain and was held together by copper alloy screws or nails. Fine examples of this type of  wheel can be found today on HMS Unicorn and HMS Trincomalee. Trincomalee’s wheel isperhaps closest in design, with distinctive grooved felloes nearly identical to those on the HMS Erebus wheel found by Parks Canada.
 
Like most large Royal Navy vessels, Erebus and Terror’s wheels had ten spokes, each radiating at 36 degrees from the barrel. Usually, survey vessels ships of this size would have had an eight spoke wheel; the extra spokes would have substantially increased the strength of such a small wheel, and perhaps it was deemed necessary for arctic exploration.
 
The Le Vesconte daguerreotype indicates that the top of the wheel pedestals were protected by a very heavy moulded brass guard plate. This can be confirmed by the subtle reflections seen on the plate in the daguerreotype. HMS Trincomalee has similar heavy copper guard plates on its wheel pedestals.
 
 

Laser cutting the wheel components.
 

Th finished sheet. 
 

I used the wheel plan to assemble a building jig. 
 

The completed jig. 
 

Gluing the felloes. 
 

Creating the outer groove in the felloes. The same
procedure was used for the inner groove.
 

The rim was notched to receive the spokes. 
 

I don't own a lathe, so each spoke was laser cut 
from sheet stock, then filed into final shape. 
 

Assembling the wheel. The card stock allows for 
the spokes to be centered on the rim. 
 

Spokes in position. 
 

The completed wheel with a 10 cent piece for scale. 
 

The second wheel compared to the first. 
 

The barrel was made from three pieces of sheet stock, 
and filed to final shape. 
 

Gluing the barrel to a wheel, using the spindle as a guide. 
Note the damage on the barrel - caused by a dull blade. 
 

The completed pedestals, with the brass guards in place. Limited information 
on the pedestal hubs was available, so here they are made as simple brass tubes.
​They are barely visible in the completed assembly. 
 

The completed ship's wheel, after applying a coat of Minwax poly.
 

 
 
 
As always, for more content, please see my blog, Building HMS Terror.  
 
 

FAIRING THE HULL
 
I haven't posted in many weeks, but I have been busy working on preparing Terror's hull for planking. I've been relatively obsessive about this aspect of my build, because getting the shape of Terror right has been a real challenge. She was modified so many times (and had so many layers of planking), that her hull shape was somewhat of a mystery to me (at least at the bow and stern). However, I think I've reached a stage where I can move forward. 
 
Below I'll present the steps in the process and what I learned about Terror (and Erebus), as I worked. 
 
 
 

Before I could begin faring the hull, it was necessary to fill in the 
stern and bow of the model using filling blocks. I created these 
from 1/4" plywood, laser cut using measurements from the 
ship's plans. This image displays the three starboard filling 
blocks used at the bow. 
 
 

The filling blocks were carved to shape using card 
guides cut to match the lines of the half breadth plan. 
 
 

Placing the filling blocks side-by-side as they were carved ensured that they 
were symmetrical. The lamination in the plywood was also helpful
 in this regard. However, plywood is a poor carving material, 
and I would think twice about using it again.
 
 

In 1839, the solid chock (ice) channels on Terror were extended around the bow. I 
constructed these from several layers of basswood. 
 
 

These chocks were then shaped to match the proper cross section of the channels. 
 
 

The ice channels were glued in place on the bow and scrap wood 
was used to rough out the bulwark shape. The excessive
use of glue didn't escape Mini-Crozier's critical eye. 
 
 

The gaps in the bulwarks were filled using basswood strips of appropriate thickness. 
 
 

Rather than filling and sanding seams and gaps, basswood leveling strips 
were applied to the upper surface of the ice channels. The channels
were then filed to shape using card stock templates. Scrap wood was 
used to fill in any large gaps in the bulwarks. 
 
 

The completed bow just prior to sanding. I checked the symmetry 
and level of each side of the ice channel obsessively with a height 
gauge while the model was still on its building board. The
asymmetry of the filling stock used to shape the bulwarks 
is a product of the odds and ends in my spoil bin, and while 
unsightly, it won't be visible when the model is planked. 
 
 

This image shows the faired forward bulkheads and bow filling blocks, just prior to final
sanding. The merchant-like shape of Terror's bow and the imposing nature of the ice 
channel grafted to it can be seen in this view. Note how far the ice channel 
overhangs the bow relative to the port side of the ship; this is because it 
sits on three layers of planking, including a layer of 3" lower planks,
 a second layer of 8" planks, and a third layer 
of even thicker reinforcing planks. 
 
 

An image of the faired stern, detailing the single filling block used 
in this area. The stern rabbet is in the process of being finalized
in this image. 
 
 

With the hull faired, the stern timbers could be installed. These 
were laser cut from Swiss pear.  The outermost stern timbers, 
on the left, were cut in two sections, as they form an angle 
when installed correctly. 
 
 
Prior to describing how the stern timbers were installed, it is important to note how this area of the ship was designed by Oliver Lang, the shipwright who refit Erebus and Terror for the Franklin Expedition. Because of  the massive size of the propeller well and the rudder post which formed its aft wall, Lang had little room left to fit the six stern timbers and four stern lights (windows) in the counter. His solution can be seen in the 1845 Erebus and Terror stern model in the collection of the National Maritime Museum, in Chatham. 

Inspection of the propeller well in that model shows that the stern timbers were actually used to form side walls of the well. However, they could not be fayed directly to the sides of the rudder post as this wouldn't leave enough space for the stern lights (windows). This meant that the stern timbers had to be inset into the sides of the rudder post by three inches to form the side walls of the propeller well. Remarkably, Lang achieved all of this with almost no modification of Terror's existing stern framing. With the rudder post locked directly into the two central stern timbers, the whole structure was incredibly robust.  It is important to note that the inset stern timbers may not have been needed on Erebus, which had a slightly wider counter than Terror. 
 
 

Simplified plan of Terror's counter architecture. Note how the stern timbers overlap 
the rudder post. Also noteworthy is the position of the upper deck transom, 
which could be fayed directly to the aft side of the rudder post in this configuration. 
 
 

In this image, the slot/inset for the stern timber has been cut into the rudder 
post. Note how it is level with the interior sides of the propeller well. 
 
 

A view from the aft side of the rudder post showing the insets for the stern timbers. 
Note the square slots in the stern filling blocks cut to accept the heels of the stern timbers 
(no wing transom was required for construction for this stage).
 
 

Checking the fit with a stern timber. This won't be visible in the finished model. 
 
 

Checking alignment. 
 
 

The stern timbers were fitted with the help of a jig. The jig was designed to be
clamped to the bulwarks, using the station lines printed on it as guides. 
 
 

Detail of the aft part of the jig. 
 
 

A height gauge was necessary to ensure that the jig was properly aligned along its aft margin. 
This gauge slid tightly over the aft support of the building board, using the tracks on the left. 
 
 

The jig and height gauge in place, with the center two stern timbers 
installed and clamped. 
 
 

"Wing transom" filling pieces. These are not entirely accurate architecturally 
(they are more like half-transoms), but were carved and sanded to shape 
to provide a platform for planking the stern. 
 
 

The "wing transom" in place. Note the very slight curve in the transom. As confirmed 
by the 1845 stern model and the 1839 model of Erebus, Terror's 
stern was very square indeed. 
 
 

Rough transverse framing was installed to support the stern timbers. This 
framing is not accurate to plan or scale but rather simply supports the structure
and will not be visible when the model is planked. See the above plan for the
 correct framing. As with the bow, I obsessively relied on a height gauge to 
ensure the entire structure was level and square. 
 
 

A port side view, detailing the stern architecture. Note how the stern 
timbers adjoined the propeller well and rudder post. 
 
 

The completed stern.
 
 
Completing the construction and fairing of the model's stern was a milestone for my project. Not only is the model now ready for planking, finishing this stage of the build revealed a minor mystery surrounding how Lang planked Terror's stern . Lang's 1845 stern refit plan stated that an "....additional part of the wale [was] added to the after end of the ship to form the well or trunk..." for the propeller. Unfortunately, his plan does not reveal if both layers of planking were extended to accomplish this (Terror was double planked against the ice). However, with the construction of this part of the model, his solution became clear to me.

If my model is correct, then it shows that the first layer of Terror's hull planking did not need to be modified in any way by Lang.  In fact, it could simply be left in place, terminating at the edge of the lower counter, as was typical of bomb vessels. Again, if my model architecture is correct, then it shows that Lang could have just extended the second layer of planking to the rudder post. The 1845 stern model shows that this planking rose straight up the rudder post and, when it hit the counter, turned to trace a graceful arc, running from the upper end of the stern rabbet to the lowest portion of the counter at the sides (these planks were fayed directly to the previously planked counter). Lang's stern plan shows that the second layer abutted a beveled margin plank on the counter, although this isn't detailed on his stern model. 
 
 

My planking plan for Terror's stern. The red lines show the lower planking, while 
the white lines show the upper level of planking. The overlap of the planks 
accords well with the 1839 midships section for Erebus and Terror. 
 
 

The current condition of Terror. She's just about ready for planking. 
 
 

A view from the upper deck. 

As I did with my other boats, I throw in a thin dark plastic cover for the windows.

Decided on a paint scheme, went with three types of gray.  Good old Folk Art acrylic from the craft store.

Almost to the paint

Got the sides on, now I need to straighten the edges some more, build going pretty smooth so far.  The bottom strip are next.  After that the agonizing step of choosing a paint scheme will follow.
 

 
 
 

Now that the deck is in place it was time for the keep strip and the chines.  Pretty straight forward, the basswood works great for this step, soaked them in water for an hour and they went in perfect.  Sanded each end to flush with the frame.
 

I got the deck attached pretty easily.  Good old rubber bands and wood work their magic
 
 

Next I decided to plank the cabin deck with some extra Tanganyka wood I had from another kit, this pic is just the beginning, I will post the finished one later, it's already installed in the boat
 

Here is the beginning, put down the foundation.  the wood was not very straight so I had to make some modifications.

Got around to finishing the deck. Now fitting the mast.
 

Hey Mark,
   Well maybe I should call you laser man. Your getting pretty handy with that thing. She is coming along nicely Chief!!!
 
 
 
 

Hey Mark,
   Well maybe I should call you laser man. Your getting pretty handy with that thing. She is coming along nicely Chief!!!
 
 
 
 

Deck clamp installation is in progress.
Some clamps are curved (bow and stern), edge bending will not really work with such thick planks, so cut them to shape.
Tracing paper helps a lot, just make sure it is fixed in place and will not move:
 

 

 
In a meanwhile, was trying to make treenails. I do not trust the glue joint between the deck clamps and the frames, it might be too weak for the humidity varations. So will reinforce it with a boxwood treenails, brass nails would be really hard to sand inside the hull.
Drawing through drawplate is really difficult after 0.7mm diameter, and is also very time consuming.
Tried another method - drilling with a hypodermic needle, sharpened as a crown.
So far my experiments failed - after first few nails wood gets stuck inside the nail and you get burned holes.
After careful reading, seems like the trick is to bend the edges of the needle to the inside, so there would be a gap between the inner surface of a needle and a treenail.
Tried the same idea with a large needle (designed to inflate balls) - but it is not polished inside, so I get burned wood again.
Also, dremel drilling stand vibrates too much, so mill is the only option for that method.
 

 
Test results, fail:

 
Ordered a bigger hypodermic needles, will try again.

The timberheads were pinned and epoxied in place.

Thanks, John.
 
I've been working on fiddly things.  I finished the gun carriages, but I had to order 5/64" brass rod to make new trunnions.  The supplied ones were too short. next up was the cap squares...an annoying bit of work I have been putting off!.  I decided I wanted them made of blackened brass, so here is how I made them (a tip of the hat to John Earl at "modelboatyard.com" for his idea).
 
I took a length of 5/64" brass rod and filed it flat, creating a half-round.  I then soldered this to a piece of brass bar stock 3/32" thick.  This was my "mold".  I then inserted the brass bar and a strip of blackened brass in the jaws of a machinist's vice and clamped down.  Bend the strip over the brass half-round with a needle nosed pliers.  Release from the vice and trim to size.  The squares need to have holes drilled for the bolts and have the blackening touched up before mounting on the carriages.