Cap'n Rat Fink

A little more done tonight....










 

For the mast and spars I used paint brush bristles.  To make the mast slightly thicker then the spars I glued four or five together.  
 

 
One of my rules in building small ships is make it big and cut it small.  
 

 
This is where I started comparing it to the bottle to make sure the mast would not be to tall.  I plan on having to sections to the mast but continually checking it always helps.  There's nothing worse then getting a ship in a bottle and having the mast be to tall to fit.  
 

Thanks Omega.  It did turn out better and easier with punching the holes after the fact.  
 
Thanks Mario.  
 
A lot of progress made.  I coated the bulwarks with nail polish and drilled the holes out.  They did bend a little I think a couple more coats would have been better.  They weren't hard to bend back with some tweezers though.  The cannons are 30 gauge wire I got from a hobby store.  It was already painted black.        
 

 
I did the mast next but I actually suggest doing the bow first.  I used bamboo for this.  In the past I've used a needle painted black.  I pulled a bambooskewer through a draw plate until I got it to a very small size.  In this case I sanded it even smaller to get to the size I needed.  I glued on a long piece and cut it smaller after it dried.  
 

Mario, you made this small boat into a fascinating snapshot of the Bounty's everlasting mystique.  A gripping display.  Please don't ever take your log down!

A LITTLE MORE PROGRESS ON THE BATTEAU TONIGHT....


BFNMF

MARIO

Hi All,
I decided to go with the idea of using FABRIC PAINT to give the look of nails n roves. I am really not crazy about a lot of those nails n roves to do. Since at a size between .05mm to 1mm, just not worth the trouble for something that would really not be noticed. Plus I am not a fan of trenails and/or nails n roves anyway. Call me crazy but I rather do ratlines. I do really not care for the the look. But I thought I would giver a go...my boat now has a bad case of the pimples. LOL!


If you remember Jeff plans show dashed lines on the frames. Which would assist the builder in faring the frames. So what I did was fare each frame individually before I installed them on the boat floor. I left enough material to finish the faring after the frames were permanently glued into position.
Has with my Bounty Launch build the instructions had me leave off the cant frames till the rest were fared. So I decided to leave off frames D n E nearest to the bow section to fare after the rest of the frames were completed... Once completed I glued them into place and I used frame C as a reference to do frame D and E. I layed my sanding block on frame C and went from there to get them all in line. Using a batten to keep me in line....

Now if you go back to page 1. You will see the that the boat bottom at the stem n stern areas come to a point. The plans had me cut out the stem n stern with a squared joint...So I spoke with Jeff and he did say I was right in deciding to Nip off the boat bottom ends to a squared end and butt he stem n stern post to them...(he is going to correct the plans at a later date)

So here's a few pictures...




















Well I knew things were going too smoothly....

Ok I am now at a stand still. I started to trace out the gar-board strack. Then I transferred it to white card. Then I placed the card gar-board against my frames to see how close I was. Well I was way off. I could not figure out why for the longest time. I took my traced out gar-board and layed it on the plans and it matched perfectly.
You ever get one of those nights that all you do is think and your production is nil. Well after staring at my project and then back to the plans hoping to figure out what was going on, I finally saw it. If you look at my project my flat bottom boat floor is flat. But on the plans it is not so. It curves up slightly at the fore n aft ends. I never saw it till NOW.
So am I correct in assuming that I will not be able to transfer the strakes on the plans to my material. Because measuring from stem to stern on the plans it 15 inches, on my model it's 16 inches. My option is now to mark of my own strakes on the frames and go from there. By creating my own planks. I need to know from you experienced scratch builders that I am making the right decision, and that I am understanding these plans correctly. Since this is all new to me. Thanks for any advice to help me out here....


here's a couple of pictures

cheers Mario







 













 
 




 
 
 

HI EVERYONE,
  IT'S BEEN A WHILE SO I HOPE I STILL KNOW HOW TO POST PICTURES...
 
Hello,
  Well I’m trying to get back into the modeling mode, since I have been away for a while.  Because of work getting crazily out of hand. Well they implemented a new system that is making us work at a snails pace now. Which is a good thing. Cause sometimes enough is enough.  When MSW switch to this new site. I did a model that I never added back to the new site. So I got a little time right now. I built this boat back in April 2012.
MARIO
 
Hello Friends,
 Well I have started. I downloaded the plans to my flash drive. Jumped in the truck. Drove down to the neariest print shop. I had 2 copies of the plans on 17x11 printed up. I ran out the door with plans in hand with a big stupid smile on my face.
So last night I was able to cut out the frames, cleats, stem n stern posts, boat bottom from the plans. They are now glued to the material and ready to be sawed out tonight.
 
MARIO
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I cut out my frames, stem n stern posts, the fore n aft knees, and the boat bottom. Now I will spend the rest of the day sanding the items cut out and ready them for install. Plus I will experiment with my rove creating. I will show my results later this evening....

So now I'm going to go back at it. Just stopped long enough to finally show some progress my friends

















 
Still have a bit to sand on the frames and cleats. But did not get to my testing the look of the roves.
On the plans it shows a butt seam of two planks running down the middle of the boat floor. I figured in real life this should not be. Because since the stem n stern posts will reside in their respective positions. Wouldn't this create a week joint? This is just me using assuming things again. So I drew a center line on the floor bottom and repositioned the plank seams.

cheers Mario

So here is a little more progress on the Batteau....










 
 

YOUR IS COMING ALONG JUST SUPERB C. STEVE.
 
 
MARIO

VERY WELL DONE KEITH.
 
MARIO

PRETTY SLICK DANIEL. I WISH I COULD SEE THAT SMALL. LET ALONE BUILD THAT SMALL.
 
MARIO

JOE,
   VERY CLEAN AND PRECISE WORKMANSHIP. A LITTLE DETAILS ADD A LOT TO THESE LITTLE MODELS.
 
MARIO

Whilst awaiting table-saws and blackening agents and the like, our Hero hath turned his attentions to other matters, such as making the Carpenter’s Toolbox.
 
"The job not be finished yet," said CaptainSteve, "but here be a few pics for ye."
 


 
It seems our Hero was greatly inspired by Capt RatFink's work, and has vowed to also create an open tool-box.
 


 
O'course, an open tool-box be meaning the need for tools to be going in that tool-box. Firstly (and stolen shamelessly from RatFink's build), a rack for storing chisels.

 
To date, a wooden mallet, a saw and an axe have been created ... 

... with a brace 'n' bit drill in the works ...

Today was a happy day modelling. That is, until I received a phone call from my best friend's mother. He passed away from a motorbike accident - apparently he crested a hill and encountered a vehicle driven by a drunk driver travelling on the wrong side of the road: http://www.watoday.com.au/wa-news/claremont-man-killed-in-albany-crash-20140322-359rc.html
 
I am completely numb at the moment. After I put down the phone I continued to work but my mind was a blank.
 
Anyway, i'll just leave these here:
 

 

 

 

 

 
I think i'll continue doing work. It was strangely therapeutic.

Thanks for all the comments and likes, everyone!

Anyway, I did some work on the carpenter's chest. I modelled it in the open position. I took inspiration from Cap'n Rat Fink's chest here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/849-hms-bounty-launch-by-teleman-116-bashed-completed/?p=12090 (copied the hollow lid idea), as well as Meredith's hinges here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2160-hms-bounty-launch-by-meredith-modelshipways/?p=143922
 
At the time I was wondering whether I could make metalwork as fine as hers, but as it turns out ... I can't. Try as I might, I am not able to make two "F" shapes in the supplied brass strip, so I made an "I" and a "C" instead. Still, I think the result looks OK. 
 
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure or amusement. Probably the latter
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Oh well, looks like nobody could answer my question Anyway, I took a look at the Occre kit, and I noticed that they had deadeyes in the shrouds. So deadeyes it is.
 

 
Unfortunately, my soldering skills leave much to be desired. The iron doesn't get hot enough, and when the solder melts, it forms a little ball and refuses to go into the metal. I then read Russell Barnes' silver soldering tutorial then remembered I had some silver solder coil (not paste!) in my toolbox. After quite a lot of rummaging, I found it.
 
I then spent a few hours experimenting with different methods to make these damned things without burning the deadeyes. I came up with this:
 

 
I wrapped the deadeye in some tissue paper, then saturated it with water. The water cools down the wire around the deadeye, preventing it from burning. It worked a treat.
 

 
I have decided to make a bowsprit. McKay's plans include a bowsprit holder (whatever you call it). I fabricated one by forming a ring with brass plate, soldering it shut, then soldering a brass rod onto it.
 

 
After much shaping, this is what it looks like. I have yet to finish fine sanding and blackening - that will come later.
 

 
This is what it looks like attached to the bowsprit.
 

 
Unfortunately, my metal blackener leaves much to be desired. As the picture shows, it is the "Krick" brand. This picture shows some brass pieces which have been cleaned in methylated spirits, then detergent, then left in the blackener for one hour! As you can see it is nowhere near black. Only the copper has oxidized a little. Silver solder does not change colour at all, and "ordinary" solder turns grey, not black. About the only thing that turns black is wood!
 
Real waste of money. I wonder if anyone else uses Krick and whether they have had good results?

Thanks for the comments guys. Esion, if you could post a build log of your boat that would be helpful.
 
The hull is now completed, and I am about to start installing the floorboards, etc. I have been poring over the other Bounty Launch build logs on MSW with a microscope, and I note that Mario (Cap'n Rat Fink) repositioned the masts on his boat (see here). Did he make the right decision?
 

 
Photo 1: Model Shipways. This is an image from the Bounty instructions (the plans are too big to fit in my scanner). I have numbered the frames 1-15 as per the convention in the manual, but if you count the tween frames there should be 26. However, as noted in an earlier post I added two frames, so I have 28. Note the position of the mainmast relative to the windlass holder.
 

 
Photo 2: National Maritime Museum. This is an image of the plans of the Bounty Launch from the National Maritime Museum. The positions of the foremast and mainmast are not indicated on these plans.
 

 
Photo 3: AOTS: Bounty. These are the plans from Mackay's AOTS: Bounty. I have numbered the frames for convenience.
 
 
Comparing the three plans, a number of observations can be made:
 
1. The number of frames in each set of plans is radically different. MS has 26, NMM has 16, and AOTS:Bounty has 18. Also, the frames on the bow are canted on the MS kit, whereas they are straight on NMM and AOTS:Bounty.
 
2. The position of the windlass (expressed as a ratio to the length of the ship - larger number means the windlass is closer to the bow) is 0.55:1 on the MS kit, 0.56:1 on the NMM plans, and 0.55:1 on Mackay - all three sources agree.
 
3. The position on the mainmast, again using the same convention, is 0.38:1 on the MS kit, and 0.49:1 on Mackay. You can see the difference just eyeballing the photos.
 
4. Mackay depicts a bowsprit - this is not included in the MS kit. I have to decide whether or not to create one. Mario decided that the Launch is too small to include a bowsprit, but I will probably go with Mackay's plans.
 
5. The MS kit does not include a crane, or a windlass (but they do include plans, but not material for fabricating one if you wish). The booklet says that the crane and windlass were probably left on the Bounty when Bligh was set adrift - so these items were not included. Do I make my own? Decisions, decisions ...
 
6. Mackay depicts six thwarts and six oars per side. The oarlocks on Mackay are simply cutouts on the sheer plank. The NMM plans do not depict any oars or oarlocks, but does depict six thwarts. However - MS includes five thwarts and five pairs of oars. The oarlocks on Mackay are dowels insert in the gunwale. Interesting decision by MS - it is not too late in my build to severely kitbash and try to get my Launch to look more like Mackay's, but the very thought of fabricating a new gunwale takes the wind out of my sails. I will probably stick with MS - the gunwale they included looks nice.
 
I now have to decide whether to paint the inside of the Launch or not. My original idea was to stain the planks and floorboards, thwarts, etc. different coloured stains to make them stand out, but I am not sure if I should introduce another colour (perhaps red). Nobody knows how the interior of the Launch was painted, so I suppose that gives me considerable artistic license! It will probably end up as an aesthetic decision, more than anything else!
 
Now after all that, did Mario make the correct decision? Take a look at his boat:
 

 
Now take a look at what it would look like if built to the instructions provided by MS:
 

 
I think there is no question that the mast should be closer to the windlass. It even looks more correct. Unfortunately, repositioning the mainmast means that all sorts of things have to be fabricated or shifted - new thwarts have to be made, holes filled and moved, etc. My homework for tonight is to study the plans and see if I have enough material to do it.

Thanks Jeff-E
 
Anyway, I managed to do more work yesterday and today.
 

 
After installing the cant frames, I noted that there is a gap between frames 2-3, and 3-4 as per the plans. I then checked with McKay's AOTS Bounty and saw that the boat as depicted by MS differed from McKay. I am not sure which is more correct, but it sure looks strange - especially since the frames are visible on my build.
 

 
... I therefore bent a couple more ribs and taped them in place. They look MUCH better in my opinion. I therefore glued them in place.
 
 

 

 
After the hull was sanded down, I drilled dozens of little holes and started plugging them with treenails. I thought I would hate putting treenails in, but it's actually quite fun. Unfortunately, I ran out of walnut dowel to make treenails, so I had to substitute. This meant studying the plans to see which treenails were going to be visible. Anything below the waterline was not critical - I planned to paint it. That left the internal treenails. I made some more treenails with bamboo, and thought I would simulate treenails with woodfiller.
 
 

 
I was concerned that the treenails would look different, so I only used bamboo and woodfiller treenails on areas that would be painted over. Here is the hull after drying, about to start sanding.
 
 

 
Sanding is complete, and I stained the wood again. Once stained, it is quite difficult to tell the difference between bamboo and walnut, but I can tell you that it is MUCH easier to draw walnut through a drawplate than bamboo! It is just a more pleasant wood to work with.
 

 
This photo shows the difference between the walnut treenails and the simulated treenails using woodfiller. It doesn't really do justice - the real treenails look MUCH better in real life - it just looks more defined and sharper.

Thanks Cap'n Bob, Dan, Tom, Jeff, and Scott. I have had the whole week off for Christmas, Boxing day, and New Years - no prizes for guessing what I have been doing
 

 
I pre-stained the planks prior to installation. As you can see from the photo, the wood is porous enough to let the stain seep through from the other side. I deliberately stained some planks more aggressively than others to give some variation in colour between the planks when it is assembled. I am very happy with the colour of the stain - it is exactly what I wanted.
 

 
After 24 hours to allow the stain to dry, I soaked the planks and steam bent them, again using the frame as a jig. It took me a whole day to bend all the planks, and then I waited 24 hours for the planks to dry. In previous models I have attempted to install planks which have not been thoroughly dried. Bad mistake to make - wet planks expand. When they dry, they contract - leaving unsightly gaps in the planking. Given this is a single planked boat, I did not want this to happen.
 

 
Planking begins! The picture shows the garboard plank fitting snugly in the rabbet.
 

 

 

 

 
Since I am planning to treenail this boat, I thought I would make a treenail marking jig. I used some spare grating material from another kit. The pictures are self explanatory.
 

 
Planking continues. I was have read the other Bounty Launch build logs thoroughly and was very careful to follow the planking marks. The instructions suggest you can either alternate between planking from the garboard up and sheer down, or plank from the sheer down. I decided to alternate - so: 1, 10, 2, 9, 3, 8 ... etc.
 

 

 
I note that usedtosail had a problem with his shutter plank (see here). Well, I encountered the same problem. It appears as if the shutter plank is not the same size as depicted on the plans. Unlike Tom, I do not have any spare basswood in order to cut myself a new plank.
 
I will have to install a stealer. I am quite annoyed that I have to install a stealer on a kit which features laser cut strakes, but then none of the other modellers reported a problem - so perhaps it is my own fault. I'm not quite sure where I went wrong, but a word of warning for anybody planning to build this launch. Watch out for this - if it appears that you need to trim wood at the stern, DON'T. At least not until you get to test fit the shutter plank.
 
I am also annoyed that the stealer will be above the waterline. I was planning to paint the kit at the waterline, and stain everything above it. The stealer will unfortunately be quite visible!
 
In any case, I don't want to deal with it tonight. That will have to be a job for tomorrow. I'm off to bed now.

I made a few items to enhance the boat contents over the kit supplied items. I made a bucket by turning a piece of dowel on the lathe. For the slates, I used the same technique I used for the barrels, scoring the lines using a razor saw. I added a handle and filled it with some husked coconuts I made from Sculpey. I also made some unhusked coconuts from Sculpey and a halved one. I made the cutlass from some brass strip and a small piece of brass tubing. I used a wide piece for both the blade and the handle. On the blade, I filed in the curves. I used a single piece for the handle. I first filed in the shape of the hand guard, then filed the rest narrower and bent it around for the finger guard. I blackened the individual pieces, then glued them together with CA. I filled in the end of the handle with wood filler, then painted the handle black. I lightly sanded the blade so some of the metal shown through. I still have to add the bands around the bucket, which I will do with black paper.
 

 

 

 
I really enjoy making these extra little details. Now I just have to figure out how to put all the stuff into the boat so it looks right.

Thanks Omega.  
 
Well after some thought I decided to redo the last part.  The results were much better.  Here's what I came up with.  After looking at the gun ports and remembering how the cannons compared in the last ships I think cutting them out nice and square may be a bit much.  At this scale the square ports are not even seen.  So in order to make this somewhat easier and better looking  I decided to redo the bulwarks with no ports cut out.  I stiffened them with clear nail polish so I can drill holes later.
 

 

 

 
I also added the forward part of the keel with a toothpick shaving.  Aside from the cannons it's finally ready for the masts, spars and rigging.  This is actually the easier part of this build and it really brings the ship to life.  

I then glued it on and trimmed it off.  
 

 
I then glued on the channels.  For this I used an old ship in bottle trick by glueing thread to the side of the hull.  I've seen this used in older ships when they wanted a nice thin line on the hull.  It's often to small to paint so thread does the trick.  I did the same thing in a little coastal schooner I built.
 

 
Plans for this schooner are in Don Hubbards book Ships in Bottles.  I highly recommend it for those wanting to get into ship in bottle building.