Mike Dowling
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So, I am having real problems bending 2mm lime wood for planks. If I try to bend them dry they snap. If I bend them wet they desperately try to return to their unbent shape. I realise I am doing a large scale kit model so the wood is quite thick but I have tried a manual plank bender both wet and dry, I have tried a steam iron but so far limited success. Any bright ideas out there?
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I have tried several times to bend these beasties while dry and it just won't work!! I'll have to bend them wet and hope they don't 'unbend' too much while drying so that I can stick em on!
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Thanks Dom, I will have a bit of a practice on dry wood and let you know how I get on. It might be the wood, I have not had such a problem before. I guess because it's a large scale kit the wood has to be thicker and whilst 2mm doesn't sound much it is quite a lot to bend. I did try using a steam iron earlier but didn't have any joy with that.
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I have tried both. Obviously the wood widens more when wet but it seems to bend better with less risk of breaking and when left to dry the 'spread' seems less although I'm not sure.
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Yes, that is the machine I have. I had a bit of a play yesterday and reckon I can probably manage with it for the really bendy bits. I suppose there are not too many of them. I can always use the 'Dowling' method for the bigger curves. Thanks for your help though.
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When I said sideways spread I mean that the pressure from the manual bender does cause the wood to flatten slightly and therefore increase its width. Albeit a small amount the effect would become cumulative over a number of planks. Anyway, thanks for the link. If yours gathers dust how do you do it or what do you use instead?
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I have got a manual plank bender. The problem with this, which I did mention earlier in my log, is that it does spread the wood sideways a little bit. It is effective but the spread progressively becomes a problem. That said, were can I get an electric plank bender?
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Thanks CF, I think I understand the bending bit. You are saying I have to bend them and wait until they are dry. If so I had better go and but some curling tongs! It's just a shame that the bits I need to bend always seem to be on the end of the 'strake'! On the open side, in a way it's easier because they will nearly all be quite short. It's the port side that worries me more as it will all be covered. If I follow the wonderful and gorgeous instructions such as they are I will need as many stealers as strakes. Captain Al will have the same problems and his is only single planked. The garboard plank for us gets done in several pieces because of the same process as above. I know it's not the way the experts do it but it does seem to be a means to an end so to speak. With regard to the placing of strakes for the cutout, the instructions are relatively good with a fairly straightforward progression at the bow and effectively two at the stern. There actually given measurements for once!
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Hey everybody!! I though, just for a change, that you might like to see my bottom!!! Before it gets covered up!
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Sorry mate, lost me again there! Soak, bend, apply while wet but don't glue? I tried that with a small test piece but, whilst drying it has sort of unbent itself which is not helpful.
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Thank you very much CF but you didn't make any suggestions as to what to next and I value your expertise. Fifthace, I ordered map pins on Saturday which I still think is a brilliant idea of yours but I'm not sure they are going to help much with the really bendy bits. A thought! Does one soak, bend and then dry or, soak, bend and apply whilst damp. I would tend to the latter but what do others think?
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Here are my first bits of planking basically the same both sides so I won't bore everybody. What I would like is some advice now. Do I keep working downwards for a while or start again at the false keel and work upwards? Goodness only knows how I am to bend this incredibly tough wood (2mm x 5mm lime) around the stern end and get it to stay put when glued.
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Thanks Bindy, I can't believe how much weight I'm losing over this, and it's supposed to be fun!
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Now CF, don't be mean! I promised you pictures when I have done a wee bit of trimming!
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Just to let you know out there that planking has commenced!!!!! I decided n the end with various advice to do the first plank according to the strange instructions. I can see some logic to them because of the open starboard side. I do have the advantage with the OcCRe kit over the AL kit that mine is double planked which theoretically means I can cover up my mess second time around. Anyway, just wanted to let you know and I will add some pics when I have done a bit of 'trimming' - not in the nautical way but with a knife!!
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Hi there, I think you should be grateful for one layer but, having said that I reckon two layers gives me the chance to cover upper the mess I make first time. Dom and I have been having an off site discussion about all this. I can't think it would make much difference if you do a second layer, the veneers are only 0.6mm ish and I think I would rather do that than copper.
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Dom, you are quite right. The plans look nothing like the photo of the ship. What I will try and do (never mind the copyright!) is send you a couple of pics from the wonderful instructions and see what you think from there. CA,CF and anyone out there who can help me, do feel free to join in. I am very concerned, having made the mistake before is not to laterally bend the strakes. CA yes, I think it is the wire for the lamp - nothing exciting! And I know I am going to historically wrong and I don't seem to have as many metal bits as you, I really do like the shiny brass bits so I may be a complete peasant and keep them shiny so there!!!
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Dom the bit of anchor rope coiled up neatly on the deck. On Al's and mine your coil goes down through the top and middle deck and gets coiled up neatly on the bottom deck.
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I don't know which electric tool you mean, is it mine or in Dom's picture? Anyway this plank oops sorry, Strake. What it says in my wonderful instructions is that above the level that I have put it I should infill with wedge shaped strakes until flush with the bulwarks front and rear. These will be covered with the second layer which starts at a slightly lower level than the top deck and I quote ' The first lining strip must be glued into place snug against the top of the sapele wood coloured lining, completely straight and parallel with the floor. Complete the lining until you have covered the bulwarks at the stern and bow'. This upper lining is done in lime wood veneer and is supposed to be painted in the end. The lower part is sapele veneer and will run in the same way as the first layer. So, I don't know if that makes sense but it is what it says. I quite understand CA your confusion about plank bending. I have read loads of different approaches as it seems have you. I have used up until now mostly on larger wood pieces than planks the 'Dowling' method. This involves soaking the piece to be bent for a while. Test it for flexibility gently by hand. If not bendy enough soak longer. Eventually the wood is supple enough to bend to shape using fingers. Then I either weigh it down and trap it between various household objects to hold it in place until dry or, apply it whilst damp to the model, glue it and wait for it to dry. The problem with ply is that it can delaminate but it has worked for me on thin wood and that is how I lined the inside of the bulwarks, (see previous pics) Neither I nor my good Lady own curling tongs and I only have a teensy soldering iron. I thought I might try using my hot air paint stripper which is useless for stripping paint. I do have a manual plank bender but I have found that this does tend to 'spread' the edges of a plank and you have to be very careful not to cut right though. Whichever way you/I/we use it is a long process. You have to wait for wet wood to dry otherwise you get shrinkage problems. So my clever friends, what next?
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Firstly, yes, I have to put holes in my beautifully repaired bulwarks as well!! Secondly, deep breath, one plank!!!!!! (sorry strake) Does this look right, I spent a while making sure there is no lateral bending. So, what next?
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Thanks for that Dom, oh and by the way, thanks also for the tip about using map pins. Brilliant! Just need to get some now. What I will do when I get there is put on just one plank - which might be a control strake at the top. Take a pic and see what you say after that. OK? My hawse pipe/s (thanks again) are not metal on mine. Oh no, I have to carve them and drill them all by myself! And eventually feed the rope through the insy little holes I made in the decks to the bottom of the boat where I suppose I am expected to curl them up to look neat and if someone on board put them there! Just a little rant, I am enjoying it really!
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Hello all and thanks for the posts. I had already downloaded the link you gave Dom and read it several times. My problem is that I still don't really understand it all. It's like maths to me and I never was an good at those. I am going to risk doing it instruction way although starting at the top as you suggested. If I make a complete ******** of it perhaps I will be able to improve with the second go. Sorry I have no idea what progressive offset is either. Sounds like a disease to me! For the filler I used 5mm x 50mm thick balsa sheet. Put it in the gaps in vertical layers, used a bit of white glue just to hold it in place and together then, went outside and attacked it with sandpaper down to the level of the fairing that I had already done. The only reason I had time for launch (!!) was because I was waiting for the balsa. I don't know what a hawse pipe is either so I am not a lot of use. So, a bit more filling and sanding before the inevitable. The first planking layer if anyone is interested is 2 x 5 ml lime wood which so far seems nice and difficult to bend!! It is really quite tough stuff. That is partly why I will only go to the first bulkhead as I don't think wood that thick will bend that far. I wonder if I should do that at the stern as well? Any thoughts? Oh the bow bulwark was in two pieces before I made it three and they were supposed to meet in the middle. Once fitted I had to trim the bit below deckline in order to fit in the supplied balsa filler for the bow. Perhaps that's what the disease is!
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