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usedtosail

NRG Member
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About usedtosail

  • Birthday 04/27/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Eastern shore of Newfound Lake, NH

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  1. Thanks Ross. Do you have a build log for your Beagle build? I tested the fit of the upper deck bulwarks, then glued the deck to the frames. Instead of trying to glue it to all the frames at once, I started with the middle frames, let that dry, then the front frames, then the back frames. I then glued the bulwarks to the deck. Next will be planking the outside of the bulwarks with the same material supplied to plank the deck.
  2. I finished preparing the deck and it is now ready to install. I trimmed the excess planks, sanded it down, then used an awl to make indents for the treenails. I filled these with wood putty, then sanded the deck again. I then finished the deck with pre-stain, Golden Oak stain, and wipe on poly. I also checked the fit of the upper deck bulkhead pieces in the slots in the deck before finishing it. I was happy that I used individual planks instead of using full length planks and drawing in the plank ends. I was also a little worried about the thickness of the supplied planking wood, but it did sand up nicely.
  3. I finished adding the planks to the deck, so I now need to trim them to the edges, sand the planks down and cut the slots back out. Then I will add the treenails around the plank joints.
  4. I agree with Eric - adding the sails on the bench works best for me.
  5. All the bulkheads are glued in so the next step is to fit the deck. The slots in the deck were narrower than the thickness of the bulkheads so I used a burr in the drill press to widen the slots until the deck fit. I then removed it and marked it for planking ( a few times). The instructions have you use full size strips then mark them to 60mm but I am cutting the strips to 60 mm and gluing them in end to end with a 3 butt shift. I did use longer strips for the center plank. I am using Tacky glue to glue these down with.
  6. I started gluing the bulkheads to the keel, using Legos to align them while the glue dries.
  7. Thanks Eric. I downloaded those pictures a while ago when I bought the kit. Thanks for posting them.
  8. This will be the second Beagle model that I will build. I built the Mamoli Beagle model many years ago and gave it to my son. Since the Ochre kit is fairly new and is supposed to be a better representation of the real ship I was intrigued enough to buy it and build it. I am a retired engineer and scientist so besides the fact that this ship was so important because of Charles Darwin, it was also a survey and hydrographer ship which I think is really cool. I have the Anatomy of the Ship (AOS) book for the Beagle, which I used for the previous build and will use for this one too. I opened the box today and at first glance the contents look OK. After building a few modern kits from companies like Vanguard, I realize how these kits from older European companies are really lacking in the realism of some of the smaller details. I will try to improve them as I go along. This kit comes with sails that are way too thick but I haven't ruled out using them yet. Maybe I'll use them as patterns for more appropriate sails. I may be starting this model this week, but don't expect to really get into it until after the holidays.
  9. Just a couple of last photos of the model going into its case and the final result. I will hold onto it for a few years until my grandson is old enough to care for it and then move it into his room at his house.
  10. TBlack - I couldn't agree with you more. Chris? Gregg - If you haven't figured it out yet, that is one of the magnetic arms removed from the yellow base and stuck to a 123 block as a base.
  11. Here are pictures of the completed model. I will set up a gallery with more photos in it.
  12. Welfalck my model is finished. I could do all the research I want now but I can't change it without undoing almost all the running rigging and I am not going to do that. SO future builders of the Vanguard Speedy kit, don't do what I show, but completely redo the belaying plan that comes with the kit and build new a whole new fore bitt with lots of belaying pins or add a lot more pin rails along the sides or put many lines on each belaying pin that is there now. Or just cut the lines at the bitts and be done with it. Your choice.
  13. Gregory - these bowlines are from the main sail so they go forward to blocks on deck before the fore mast then back to the fore bitts on this model.
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