fnkershner

Hello dear friends,
I am pleased, you like my work. Thank you a lot, your words are much appreciated.
 
Another part of Royal Caroline is completed, I have also improved some details at down part of the columns - they are shorter and have better shape. During next weeks I am going to make guns and other crew members.
Best regards and enjoy the pics
Doris
 




 

The cleats on the rail that are really squarish looking were made just as the plans have them drawn.
They are listed as a kevel cleat. I'm unsure if I will leave them looking new and unused or I will pop
them off and give them some sanding.
 
Thanks Christian. Playing with different woods  was one of the most fun parts.
 
Ok the hatch covers have been completed, sanded and one coat of wipe on poly applied.
She's now ready for the open sea! That would be if there was cannon aboard.
 

 

Well, checking the stats people are hitting the DB - so thank you all for the support and glad it is useful to folks so far!  The holidays took me out of ciruculation,  nothing major just a lot of traveling here there and everywhere (my wife has a very large family so seems like most of December was spent going to someones house =) ).
 
I have started adding Billings boats to the list, those should be done shortly.
 
Also, have added colums for length and height in mm   so now both inches and mm are represented.   New ships going in will auto convert whichever way needs being done,  for those ships already in the system you will see blanks for the mm columns - I have yet whipped up a nice script to go back through and adjust everything; that is next on the plate =)
 
 
Thanks again all!
And happy building!!

Thank you all for your input, and helping me decide where to go from here. What bothered me was the stark white appearance of the coiled line, rather like white nylon or white cotton rope which it certainly would not be.  As such, it becomes the center of focus rather than a coil of rope in the background.  This is where I wish I had modified the color of the line before beginning the rigging.  In fact I did experiment but was not pleased with the result.  I should have persisted using the expert advise from some of our members.
 
I'd like to use the full coils if they can be blended in with the background.  The following photos are experiments in retrograde coloring of the lines.  The problems are obvious.  Areas with C/A glue will not take up stains, if one succeeds with the coils, all other lines will have to be altered and most of all, it's a pain................    I've tried to use similar lighting in the photos, however, we all know how lights and cameras drastically alter the appearance. I'm experimenting with washes (very dilute paint) but of course masking become a daunting task.  I'll report later on the results (or lack there of).
 
Each photo of untreated line is followed by one of treated line.  The unfinished coil on the right can be used as a control.  Unfortunately, they were taken on different days. Cheers, Gil
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 

There are contoured blocks of plywood that are fastened to the rearmost bulkhead. Part #18 attaches to the front of bulkhead #8, one on each side of the hull, and parts #28 and 29 are first glued together and then attached to the rear of bulkhead #8.The purpose of these blocks is to increase the cross section of the bulkhead to support the planking as it takes the sharp turn upward to end at the transom. The positioning of these blocks is not very clear in the plans, but is very important because of the planking and the transom construction.
 
Part #18 and its location are shown on plan sheet #4 and can be placed by taking a measurement right from the plans. Parts 28 and 29 which are now glued together should be parallel and butted up against the sternpost and even with the lower contour of bulkhead #8.
 
Obviously these parts and the last 3 bulkheads will have to be beveled considerably to allow the flow of the planking. Once they are shaped properly, I will post more photos.
 
Vince P.

The solid bow contour block has to be cut into 2 pieces, one for each side of the hull. You would think to just cut it in half and then apply the contour to each piece. If you do that, there will not be enough lumber to make both pieces. You have to carefully place the whole block on the hull and trace the contour lines. I guess they were really trying to save lumber here. Even another 1/4" added to the length would have made it much easier. Once the contour lines are marked for both sides of the hull, you cut the block on the dotted line. (See attached photos) You have at best only about 1/16" to make the cut. :o    I don't have a saw that will cut that sized piece very accurately. I will have to bug one of my carpenter friends.
 
Vince P.

A final coat on the flight deck and now ready to start detailing.
 

This is the goal.   Front page from the Cruise Book.

started round two of color washes on the flight deck.  The goal is to get a look of gray stained weathered pine soaked with salt, oil, and aviation fuel.  Round one was light washes of light uniform blue, burnt sienna, and lamp black mixed.
 
 

Picture of the side of the hull
 

I have now started the painting process.  First was the overall gray with the black boot stripe.  when this kit was released, it was common to have them with flat bottoms.  The explanation was that it was part due to Defense Department censoring and part for the ease for children to sail across the living room floor.  I plan to build up the base and put the hull in a sea of Gesso, like my Oriskany.
 

Augie - Am I correct? This is only your 2nd ship? You seem to have learned the art of planking extremely well!

Just realized I hadn't uploaded the photo of my cabin.  I think the sky light came out pretty good.  I saw some photos of the real ship after it was done and would do it a bit differently if I did it over. 
 
The small dorries are "interesting" to make.  I have kept faith with the idea that only two of them have to turn out really well.  The rest I can stack under the good ones.  Obviously, I have not added rails, or interior framing to any of them yet.
 

 

The deck furniture is coming to a close.  I've been working on rings.
 
I had soldered several rings before I asked my question and decided to continue on.  I'm using soldering paste, so its not a big deal.  More difficult is the painting.
 
I've decided to paint the rings and then install them in a manner that allows me to do a bit of touch up (since I'm basically too impatient to allow them to dry for a few days).  So, below you can see freshly painted rings stuck in the tops of yogurt cups (the plastic grips the brass very nicely) and a few installed through some tape that ask as masking.
 
I'm really wishing I had "toned down" the white paint before painting everything, but I'm not willing to redo.  Lesson learned for next model!
 

 

Just a quick update.  The first belt of planking below the wales has been completed P/S. 
 

 

 
Not bad so far and hopefully sanding will bring everything in line.  There will be a molding running across where the counter meets the planks in the stern.  Open framework amidships is starting to look nice!
 
Moving on now to the lower most belt starting with the garboard plank and heading up.  Holding off on stealers and drop planks until the final belt.   Will be trying some 3/16" planks, tapered, for the stern (everything else is 1/8).
 
 

Vince - Grant beat me to it. I was going to offer the same suggestion. Rather than go all the way to AU to get you lumber Jeff does a great job and is much closer. By the way currently Jeff is so popular he is already backed up until April. I know I have an order in the queue now. You will not be disappointed with the quality and service from Jeff.
 
Also I would have just left this with Grant but I wanted to suggest you look at the other choices that are available for deck planking. Tanganyika is commonly used by many European kit manufacturers for this purpose. But if you are going to go to the trouble to order replacement lumber there an many better choices. I would look around this forum and what others are using for this purpose. You will be pleasantly surprised at the result. If you are still sold on Tanganyika I will be glad to send you all of mine. Tell me what your size requirements are and quantity. I am replacing all of mine with wood from Jeff.

Joe, Colin and Antony,  Thanks for the kind words!
 
Mark
 
 
That would be the start of a "really bad day".  
 
Here is the framing for the canopy. In the first picture you can see how it
sets into the slots cut into the bulkhead.
 

 

Just for fun, I added the full tail of line for the jeers.  0.75 mm. line is very near to scale for the 2.5" (6 mm.) line  and 36" would be nearly equivalent to 250' on the real ship.  Which is best used in a model?  A token coil to suggest additional line (as in the previous post) or the entire tail which is perhaps more realistic, but a bit overwhelming?  And the winner is?
 

 

 

Thanks Augie, I can't imagine the shock wave that thing put out when fired!
 
Here are the two side covers made and in place with even some saw
dust slipping in the picture. Everything still needs a finished sanding and
then the coat of wipe on polly.
 

 

Reworked quarter deck gun ports
 
I first cut out the bulwark as necessary and laminated some wood to the right thickness, and the glued and pinned it on to the cut out section, I then re-cut the gun ports and added the rails, and the trim and when all done repainted, I did one side first, and then the other, a real pain to do but it had to be done, I could not have left it as it was as it would have botherd me. Over all the repair is not to bad and when the cannons are fitted and rigged you will not see it, if you did not know it was there,and the one good thing was the beech top rail did not break so that looks as good as before and its the part that the eye catches.Also all the channels, dead eyes and links are now complete and painted. Next the fore and quarter deck fittings and guns.
 
Second side cut out

 
 
Laminated insert

 
New gun ports cut out

 
 
Rework completed


 
 
Reworked gun ports and finished channels and dead eye linkage

Chart weight (for holding nautical chart on a chart table)   2 mm. hanger wire glued into holes drilled into weight.
 

 
Rope coils at Main Top Bowline Bitts
 

 
Loose coils at fore topsail sheet bitts.
 

 
 
 
 

Fore Topsail Sheet bitts
 

 
Using weight with hanger wire to form coils.
 

 
Long forceps and long nose scissors
 

 
Cutting off excess.
 

 
Lifting weight between the lines.
 

 
Loose coil on Main Top Bowline Bitts
 

 
Long forceps, Smooth jaw needle driver, long nose scissors (Micro Mark #84737) and chart weight with wire drilled into weight.
 

 
Next post

Coils on forward bitts
 

 
Fore topsail Sheet Bitts
 

 
Mizzen mast belaying pins  port
 

 
Stbd.
 

 
Chart weight with hanger wire to form lower loops
 

 
After white glue (1:10 with water). Occasionaly use fast C/A to hold line on belaying pin.
 

 
Adding variation to rope coils
 

 
And next post.
 
 
 
 
 
 

ROPE COILS
 
A few years ago, Mike Graff came to our Puget Sound Ship Modelers group with a simple small model of a cat rigged sloop.  It had a single rope coil laying over the hatch, hanging down over one edge as if tossed aside.  No thread coil takes on this natural shape. Obviously, Mike had carefully worked the threads and fixed the shape with dilute white glue.  This single coil looked so exquisite and so natural that it changed my view of how coils should look on model ships.
 
On my former models, the rope coils were well formed with a single loop over the belaying pin.  They were precise, uniform and made a great presentation. BUT THEY DID NOT LOOK REAL.
 
I reviewed the postings on rope coils, several with excellent suggestions and technique, and then looked at all my photos of real ships.  We all draw our mental picture from our own experience or that of others.  Ed Tosti noted that it was impossible to show all the tails of all the lines without hiding many details.  He showed a few with exceptional results.  Peter (Petervisser) and Jay (modeler 12) gave clear presentations of their excellent methods.
 
I believe a common shortcoming of our rope coils (certainly of mine) is uniformity.  There are very heavy lines such as the jeers (7 1/2" circumference / Longridge, about 2.4" or 60mm diameter) with long tails leading from triple blocks.  There are much smaller lines with short tails and every thing in between. A plethora of very different lines.  I decided if I could carry the idea of Mike's single coil into all the lines, I would achieve the more natural look I was striving for.
 
It would be far simpler to form the rope coils before limiting access by the running rigging but of course one can't add a rope coil until that rigging line is in place.  The extensive rigging around the fore mast on the Victory makes it virtually impossible to get a hand or short instrument to the bitts. A couple simple tools are shown in the following posts.
 
First, a few photos from the real ship.There are tight "shippy" coils in some areas.
 

 
Mizzen Topsail Sheet Bitts
 

 
Belaying pins at the bulworks. Most coils are laid over the pins, some loose, some with a light wrap and some tied.
 

 
Like most of us, I experimented using dilute white glue (1:10 with water)
 

 
Then tried brass rod to form the lower loops.  Too small
 

 
Then tried a file handle which turned out to be too large
 

 
I decided coat hanger wire was about the right size but it needed to be weighted to hold it in position. On to the next post.
 
 

I've received several PM's on how the spiling/edge bending jig I presented is working at the bow.  In response, I've taken a few photos that I'll present here.
 
Let me state that this is not to be taken as a tutorial .  It is simply how I do it.
 
You should remember what our bent/spiled planks look like after drying in the jig detailed by Chuck:
 

 
The forward tip of the plank is beveled to fit securely into the rabbet.  Then, the tip and about 3/8" of the side of the plank contacting the adjacent plank above it are glued securely in place.  It needs to be completely dry and tight as it will take some stress in establishing the bow curve of the plank.  I use thick CA  to do this as it is strong and easy to control:
 

 
A different view just to show how unusual it looks at this point.  The blue tape is just there to protect the finished wale:
 

 
The loose end of the plank is now gently bowed and lightly twisted into position and glued flat to the bulkheads.  Notice that the tendency to lift at the lower edge has been defeated:
 

 
Finally, the plank is glued to the remaining bulkheads:
 

 
Granted there are some irregularities but these should be mostly eliminated with careful sanding.  Laying this plank took about 15 minutes (not including the spiling/bending/drying time).
 
Overall, I'm pleased with the technique.  Hope this explains it!