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Bulkhead Frames All the bulkhead frames and cross pieces were removed from the wooden sheets. At this point, I deviated from the instructions by gluing the cross pieces to the bulkheads before installing the bulkheads onto the keel. To help keep the keel straight and vertical during assembly, I built a support jig using aluminum angle pieces. After reading numerous Nordkap build logs, I noticed a common issue: those who followed the dimensions provided in the instructions often struggled with bulkhead alignment at the deck level. To avoid this problem, I used the deck itself as a template when installing the bulkheads. This ensured proper spacing and alignment. Once the bulkheads were in place, I found an answer to my earlier question about motor placement. The access cutout in the deck only extends as far back as bulkhead #7. Placing the motor at bulkhead #8 would make it inaccessible, so this confirmed that the motor needs to be positioned near the #6 bulkhead. And thank you for all the likes.

Stem, Stern, and Keel Construction I began by gluing the two keel strips to the stem and stern post assemblies. Once the glue had fully dried, I added the additional pieces to both the stern and stem. I believe these form the rabbet for the planking. A quick note: the instructional diagram show two small parts (#31) meant to be attached to the top of the stem. I may have missed them—old eyes—but I couldn’t find these parts on any of the sheets. So, I simply fabricated them using leftover material from the sheet the other parts came from. Now that the keel is laid, I decided to do some preliminary planning for the propeller shaft and motor layout. The stuffing tube is 8 mm in diameter and approximately 9 inches long, though it can be cut to any length as needed. Initially, I was planning to shorten the shaft to about 5 inches, which would position the motor just above the #6 bulkhead. This configuration is shown in the first photo below. The black marks on the tape indicate the top edge of the bulkheads at the ship’s centerline. However, I’m now considering using the full 9-inch shaft without cutting it. In that case, the motor would sit above the #8 bulkhead, as shown in the second photo. The only concern I have with the longer shaft is the potential for increased vibration. I’d appreciate any advice or suggestions on which setup might be better—especially in terms of stability, performance, and vibration. Or if there's another option I should consider. Thanks and thanks for the likes.

@yvesvidal welcome aboard and thanks for following. @robdurant welcome and thank you for all your help. Quick Update: No major progress on the ship build yet, but I did receive some key parts to begin motorizing the model. I picked up a 40mm 3-blade brass prop, a Torpedo motor with mount, a 4mm shaft and stuffing tube, a universal joint coupler, and a 15-amp ESC — all from Harbor Models. Big thanks to Nick, the owner, who was very helpful. I also got some great gear from my brother (mentioned in the first post), including a Spektrum DX6 transmitter, Spektrum AR635 receiver, Spektrum A6000 servo, and a battery charger. All I need now is a battery, and I’ll be ready to start testing things out. Just a reminder — this is my first R/C boat model, so I’m still learning the ropes. Any tips, advice, or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone, Welcome to my new build log for the Nordkap 476 by Billing Boats. I chose this model as my first venture into remote-controlled ships; something I’ve wanted to try for a while. My only previous R/C experience is with an electric plane I built for my brother a few years ago, so this will be my first foray into R/C boating. I’ve been fortunate to connect with 'robdurant', who has a detailed Nordkap build log here on MSW. He’s been incredibly helpful in guiding me through the process and pointing out the key components needed to fully motorize the vessel. A few particulars: Built In 1970 in England, Tonnage 185 gross register tonnage, Length overall 40.0 m, Beam 9.30 m, Motor 1000 HP diesel, Engine speed 12-14 knots, Crew 7-8 men, Fishing tackle Drag net (trawl), Fishing area Around Iceland and Greenland, Haul Herrings, cod and trash fish. Length of model 81.5 cm (32"), Beam of model 19.5 cm (7.68"), Height of model 43.0 cm (17") I guess I was fortunate, because unbeknownst to me when I ordered the kit, it came with a cap and some free extras—a fishing net and even some fish!! Looking forward to sharing this journey with you all!

Hi everyone, I’ve just received the Billing Boats Nordkap 476 and I’m really excited to get started. Before I begin however, I’d like to plan ahead and get a better understanding of what’s involved in motorizing it for remote control—as this will affect how I approach certain parts of the construction. I’m relatively new to RC setups and would really appreciate some guidance on what components are needed to make the Nordkap fully operable via remote control. Specifically, I’d like to know: • What type of motor would be suitable for this size/model • A compatible ESC (electronic speed controller) - reversible? • What kind of battery (type, voltage, capacity) would be appropriate • Recommendations for a transmitter/receiver combo • What servo to use for the rudder • I’m also looking to replace the stock propeller and propeller shaft that came with the kit—any advice on aftermarket options that would offer better performance and durability would be great. I've read robdurant’s build log for the Nordkap and really like the propeller and shaft he got from George Sitek, but they are somewhere in the UK and it would cost me roughly $50.00 for the propeller and shaft, which seems a little excessive (maybe not). • Any other essentials like motor mounts and universal couplings, or even sound modules (not essential, but interesting to consider). The model when finished will be roughly 32" in length x 8" beam x 17" in height. Any advice or links where to purchase the above parts would be incredibly helpful. I’d love to go into this build with a solid plan. Thanks in advance for your help!

Azzoun, thank you for the nice compliment and reading my build log, it's much appreciated.

Thanks, druxey. It took a bit longer than I expected, but it was definitely worth the wait.

Thanks Rick Snug, That's an interesting idea. I never thought of doing anything like that. I will need to do some research on what background photos would look good. Thanks for the idea.

Chris, Jack thank you both and thanks for all the likes.

A few odds and ends and I’m FINISHED! Railings The PE hand railings were bent as required and then painted white. Installation took some finagling but eventually all the posts went into place. Then my least favorite thing to make, rope coils. Most came out alright but I wish someone would sell pre-made rope coils. I would definitely buy them. Lastly I decided to add a pendant to the main mast similar to the one shown in the first picture in my post #29. I scaled the pendant from the picture and then drew and printed it out. I pasted two of the sides together and then gave it a few curls. Completed ship. I enjoyed making this ship, the instructions were clear and the included materials were satisfactory for the most part. My only complaint is that the rigging thread that is provided could have been a little better quality. All in all though it’s a good kit and I would recommend it if you’re looking to do a ship with side paddle wheels.

Ensign halliard & Ensign The ensign halliard was installed and tied off to the little bollard at the deck. The ensign from the back page of the instruction booklet was used and curled trying to make it look like it was blowing in the wind. Davits and falls for the boats I wanted to use falls on the davits for the life boats and I also wanted to keep the boats above the rails. To do this however I noticed that the davits provided would not be high enough. In order to raise the davits I made up some extensions out of 1/8” diameter dowel. The davits were installed a little farther back than what was called for in the instructions to keep the boats clear of the aft cannons. The falls were added to the davits and rigged to the boats. Looking back I'm glad I changed the configuration of the lower yard brace because it would have been a real bear working around it trying to install these boats and the boom and gaff.

Moving right along now! Boom parral For the boom parral I used a different size jewelry bead that I blackened. Beads were threaded and tied around the main mast. Topping lifts The topping lifts were installed per the instruction by first attaching two blocks above the main masthead. The lift lines were run from the end of the boom through the blocks installed above the masthead then down to the deck. I did follow the superdetail described in the instructions by providing a block and tackle at the end of the lift lines. I used the cleat nearest the water closet to tie off the halliard. Main sheet The main sheet was rigged from the block attached to the traveler to the block on the lower side of the boom. To tie this line off I used some small bollards I had left over from another build that I secured to the deck. Gaff parral The gaff parral was made similar to the boom parral. Gaff throat halliard The gaff throat halliard was installed per the instruction and belayed to the bitts at the deck. Sorry no picture. Gaff peak halliard The gaff peak halliard was also installed per the instructions and belayed to the bitts at the deck. Vangs The vangs were installed per the instructions and the halliards were tied off to existing cleats on the bulwarks.

Topsail yard lift blocks I decided to install the lift blocks on the mast for the topsail yard as shown in the instruction booklet. Topsail yard lifts The topsail yard lifts were installed similarly to the lower yard lifts by running the lines through the pulleys on the yard and mast and then brought down to a halliard near the bulwarks. Topsail yard parral For the topsail yard parral I used some small jewelry beads for the parral beads and pieces of cardstock for the trucks. Topsail yard tye For the topsail yard tye I seized a hook to one end to attach to the eyebolt glued to the top of the topsail yard. The line was threaded through a hole I drilled (very carefully) through the mast just below the lower stop. The line was then brought down and belayed to the bitts at the deck. Topmast yard braces The topmast yard braces were installed per the instructions taking the line aft, through the inner sheave of the double block on the main mast cap and down to belay at the bitts below. Topgallant yard parral For the topgallant yard parral I used some thinner back line. Topgallant yard tye The topgallant yard tye was done similar to the topsail yard tye. A hole was drilled again very carefully through the mast just below the upper stop. The line was belayed to the bitts on the deck. Topgallant yard lift blocks and lifts The topgallant yard lift blocks were installed per the instructions. The lifts were run from the yard through the blocks on the mast and tied off to cleats installed on the shroud. Topgallant yard braces The braces were installed as per the instruction the line running aft to the outer sheaves in the double block at the main mast cap then down to belay at the bitts.

Eric, Good choice to fix the tunnel, if you didn't it would have bugged you forever (I know from experience).

Fore lower yard braces As per the instructions the rigging for these braces is to run from the pendants back to cleats located at the stern of the ship. However after studying bobandlucy’s Harriet Lane build I decided to change this rigging a bit. The reason for this change was that while studying bob’s build I noticed that his lifeboat placement interfered with the midship gun ports. To avoid this I thought I would move the lifeboats farther astern. If I did this though, then the lifeboat stanchions would interfere with the lower yard brace rigging. My solution was to start the rigging tied to the main stay then through the block on the end of the pendant then back to a block fastened lower down on the main stay to another block fastened farther down on the main stay and then tied off to a cleat on the bulwarks. The hardest part of doing this was attaching the cleat to the inside of the bulwark. If you look at the picture above you’ll notice a little hole in the side of the hull that goes all the way through. That’s the only way I could drill the hole to attach the cleat on the inside of the bulwark. Now I need to fill the hole and paint.

Hello all. Well it took me a little longer than I planned to get back to my build but it’s been a heck of a year. First, as per my previous post, we had our daughter’s wedding which went off without a hitch. It was a beautiful day and a good time had by all. Then things went downhill a bit. First it was hurricane Helene and then Milton, the latter of which made landfall right where we live in Florida on Siesta Key. Fortunately we didn’t have any major damage to the building other than some minor water infiltration. There was a lot of landscaping damage however. After that crisis settled down two of my three daughters had to be admitted to the hospital for different issues at different times. Fortunately again everything worked out and now everyone is fine, thank God. Now that things are somewhat back to normal I’m going to try and finish the Harriet Lane. Being away for so long it took me awhile to figure out where I left off and where all my parts were located but after a while I got back into the swing of things. Fore lower yard sling: I thought I would change things up a bit and use a different lower yard support sling than what was detailed in the instructions. I decided to use some of the left over chain that was used for the anchor chains and chain trusses to make the sling. The chain was looped around the top of the mast cap and the two ends were brought together with a chain link with a hook attached. The hooked was connected to an eye bolt fastened to the top of the yard. Fore lower yard lifts: The lower yard lift rigging was modified from what was shown in the instructions by bring each end of the lines down to a block and tackle that was secured to the ships rail and tied off to a belaying pin. In ordered to do this I needed to make and fasten pin rails to the interior side of the bulwark. At this point in the build this wasn’t an easy feat. The lift lines were rigged through the blocks previously attached to the end of the yard and below the mast cap and then brought down and finished by seizing a double block to its end. A single block was stropped with a hook and eyelet and hooked to an eyebolt fastened to the ships rail. The halliard was rigged and belayed to the pin rail. I'm not sure if I explained this too well but if you would like more detailed information I used the book 'RIGGING PERIOD SHIP MODELS' by L. Petersson as a guide (page 38). Thank you all for following (if I have any followers left after the long hiatus) and it's great to be back.

Thanks for the information chuckthedragon, those are nice drawings you found. Like you said, it's a little late for me but not for you. And a little update. Three more weeks to the wedding and I should be back modeling. Center pieces finished. Had to air brush all those flowers. Bouquet, pocket squares and corsages ready . Gift box and something that goes in the restrooms, done. Still working on the head table decorations.

Hello all, just a little update. I’m back up in Connecticut but the shipyard has been commissioned by my wife and daughter for wedding preparations. My daughter will be getting married this coming September and the wife being frugal as always has voluntary me to make all the table center pieces. Therefore the shipyard will be shut down for a bit longer. Not that I mind, looking forward to the wedding. Air brushed flowers

Very impressive Nils, great work as usual. I love the figures.

I decided to revisit the lower and topsail yards to make their center portion octagon-shaped. For the octagon shape section I used some dimensional lumber from Midwest Products that I had purchased a while back. I had to remove the jackstays and a couple of eyebolts to fit the battens. (sorry for getting my finger in the way) Battens glued and tied. Once the glue was dried the battens were stained and the eyebolts were reinstalled. For the footropes and their stirrups I decided to use 30 gauge florist wire (blackened). The stirrups were made by wrapping the wire around the yards a couple of times and then forming a small eyelet at its end. The footropes were then laced through the stirrups and the ends were wrapped around the yards. I had to keep the jackstays off until all the stirrups and footropes were put on. Completed yards. This will be my last post in this build for a while because the wife and I will be heading back to Florida for the winter. And since the ship is at a point that it can’t be easily transported it will have to wait until next spring to be finished. 😪 I would like to thank all those who have been following along with my build, for all the kind words and for all the likes. Have a Happy New Year and see you in the spring.

Thanks for the advice druxey. My daughter uses 'Tacky Glue' for her craft projects maybe I'll give that a try.

Main topmast stays: For the two main topmast stays instead of just tying the stays from one mast to the other I tried a ‘modified’ super detail as mentioned in the manual. The stays were tied to the main mast, then reeved through blocks on the foremast and then brought down to the deck. The modification came in the way I anchored the stays to the deck. Instead of belaying these lines to the forward bitts I decided to secure them with deadeyes and lanyards. To make it clearer thought I would show you the finished product and then explain how I did it. Stays tied off with deadeyes and lanyards abaft of the fore mast. Lower main topmast stay reeved through a block hooked to the eyebolt on the foremast cap. Upper main topmast stay reeved through block seized to the fore topmast. Now for the how-to. Instead of trying to run the stays from the main topmast through the blocks and then down to the deck and try to lace the lanyards through the deadeyes, I did it in reverse. First, one deadeye (2.5mm) was placed into an expanded eye of an eyebolt and set with some ca glue. Next, another deadeye (2.5mm) was seized around the end of the stay. Using a third hand the two deadeyes were held a certain distance apart so the lanyard could be threaded through them and tied off. The distance was arbitrary; I just used something that I thought looked good. My next challenge was to drill holes in the deck in order to insert the ends of the eyebolts into. My solution was to use a 1/8” diameter dowel with a drill bit glued into a hole drilled in the center of the dowel. I ended up tapering the end of the dowel a little bit to get it closer in to the pilot house. This worked out okay you just need to be patience getting the bit in the correct location. After the holes were drilled the eyebolts were inserted by holding them with tweezers and then glued in with a drop of ca glue. After waiting for the glue to dry the lines were then run up through the blocks and tied off to the main topmast. Completed standing rigging.

Chuck, Thanks so much for the kind words.

Jib Stay: For the jib stay I decided to try rigging this line something like what is shown in ‘The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor’ book on page 61. My first hurdle was how do I make and then attach the traveler to the jib boom now that the boom is already in place. My solution was to bend some 28 ga. wire around a round nose pliers to the diameter of the jib leaving extra wire at the ends in order to work it around the boom. The two long ends of the wire ring were spread part and wrapped around the jib and then reformed into its circular shape. The excess wire was removed once the traveler was in place. The next challenge was to drill a hole through the jib boom to simulate the sheeve and to not snap the end of the jib off. By supporting the underside of the boom and applying gentle pressure on the pin vise the hole was successfully drilled. Next I chose to use two single blocks for the running rigging for space considerations. One block was seized to the end of the jib stay; the other was stropped to an eyebolt that was attached to the bowsprit cap. The running rigging was reeved through these blocks bring the working end aft through the fairlead and tied to a cleat added to the bulwarks. The jib stay was then threaded through the hole in the jib boom, through the traveler and then tied off to the fore topmast. For a finishing touch I added the inhaul line to the port side of the traveler which also ran back through the fairlead and tied off to a cleat on the bulwarks. Finished jib stay

Chuck, Thank you and best of luck with your build. Will you be doing a build log? If so I'll be interested in seeing how you modify her armament. Also, if you have any question don't hesitate to ask.