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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    Paddle box upper sections and Water closets: The upper paddle boxes and water closets were assembled using the mini-miter box again to keep the pieces square. The paddle box covers were shaped and glued. Covers were shaped to fit using the stream iron after the top end was glued to the paddle box frame. The water closet sections were glued together and sanded as per the instructions using my favorite sanding tool. The sander works well you just need to be careful and not be too aggressive. I use 240 girt paper Pieces dry fit together. My wife and I, and dog, will be driving back up to Connecticut for the summer soon, so this will be my last post for a while. Once there it shouldn’t take too long to get posting again.
  2. _SalD_
    Thanks again rcmdrvr for the kind words. The reason I coppered the hull was, first, I find it enjoyable and second, if you believe it, I find it easier than painting. It's just a matter of personal taste.
  3. _SalD_
    Paddle box lower sections: The lower paddle box sections are made up of two forming pieces separated by a spacer. Assembling these pieces is pretty straight forward, you just need to pay close attention to their correct orientation. Spacer glued in place. Glued the second forming piece to the spacer. Only thing I had to keep them lined up and vertical was my mini miter box. The wrapping pieces were centered and glued to the front of the paddle boxes. After the glue dried I used my wife's 'plank bender' to steam and bend the pieces to fit around the sides of the paddle boxes. Wrapping pieces were then glued to the sides of the paddle boxes and held in place with rubber bands. Sponson deck sections: While I was working on the paddle boxes sections I also glued the two sponson decks together. I wasn't quite sure which square holes to use to align these pieces as called for in the instructions because none of them seemed to line up properly. What I used was the small round hole at the end of the pieces that seemed to position the pieces in their correct orientation relative to each other. Used a drill bit for the alignment pin.
  4. _SalD_
    Thanks Bob. I agree with you at this scale they would be too much. The seam roller. If you look at my post #29, the first photograph, the little tool, upper right side with the wooden handle is the seam roller.
  5. _SalD_
    Thanks rcmdrvr. I find that the adhesive on the back of the tape is sufficient to hold it in place and don't use any additional glue. I use a wallpaper seam rolled to press the tape down after it's set in place. I personally have not sealed the copper plating on any of my ships and it seems to hold up well. I know other people who do, so I think it's a matter of personal taste to seal or not to seal. One thing you do have to be careful of is to not touch the copper with your bare fingers, fingerprints are very noticeable. I always use latex gloves while putting the copper on and then try not to touch the bottom of the hull while doing other parts of the ship.
  6. _SalD_
    Finishing up the copper plating: Complete except for the dressing belt. Dressing belt added. Rudder finished Dry fitting the rudder
  7. _SalD_
    rcmdrvr, just found your build and I will be following along. I had the same problem with the upper counter warping, nice fix.
  8. _SalD_
    Coppering continuing: almost finished. Interesting and I'm not sure why this is happening but within a week of coppering the starboard side it started to tarnish. I've coppered this ship exactly the same way as I've done my other ships and have never seen this happen. In fact the copper plates on my Syren are still pretty much in the same condition as when they were installed. The only thing I can think of and I'm just guessing is that we are right across the street from the gulf and maybe it's the salt in the air.
  9. _SalD_
    Thanks for following rcmdrvr, it's a nice little kit and I'm sure you will enjoy it.
  10. _SalD_
    Thanks Jack, and the plating will cover a few dents in the hull as well. 😉
  11. _SalD_
    Underwater hull paint or not: To simulate the ships copper plated bottom it was recommended, per the instructions, to paint the bottom of the hull rather than actually copper plating it. This was recommended because it was thought that copper plates would look out of scale at 1:96. I had coppered the hull of my New York pilot boat the Phantom, which is the same scale (1:96) as this ship and IMO I thought that the plates looked appropriate. In any case I decided to copper the ship’s hull instead of painting it. Using the drawing shown below for reference I scaled the plates to be approximately 14” wide by 48” long. I had some 3/16” wide x 1.5mm thick adhesive backed copper tape which at 1:96 scale would make the plates 18” wide. Although the tape is a little wider than what’s shown on the drawing I didn’t think that I could cut it straight enough to make it the correct width. So for the plates I used a piece of tape 3/16” x ½” long (18” x 48”). At this scale, however, I did not show any plate fasteners. Port side plating. The over spray on the bottom of the hull is from some touch up I tried to the upper hull. This is why I don't like to spray paint, not patient enough sometimes. Thanks for all the likes and for following my build.
  12. _SalD_
    Topsides painting: I normally use a brush for all my painting but I decided I would try spray painting this time. I think the biggest reason I don’t like spray painting is because of all the taping and masking off you need to do. Taping the waterline. First coat, and no, just in case you're wondering, I did not spray it in the bedroom. Three coats later.
  13. _SalD_
    Ron, the frig is full of them, come on down anytime. Good to be back and thanks for checking out my build.
  14. _SalD_
    Alistair, very interesting method for aging the copper plates. I just might have to try it out on my current build. The one thing I'm not sure about however is which morning pee I should use, the 1AM or the 3AM or the 5AM or the 7AM.😉
  15. _SalD_
    Drawing the waterline: In order to level the ship so I could draw the waterline, I improvised a little bit by clamping the ships keel in between two spare floor tiles I had. The hull was leveled and taped down and the waterline was marked out. Fortunately the dinning room table was also level. The rudder: The leading edge of the rudder was rounded per the instructions along with tapering its sides. The dowel for the rudders shaft was fitted and glued on. The hole in the hull was drilled and the rudder assemble was dry fitted. Thanks for all the likes and for following along.
  16. _SalD_
    First I would like to thank everyone for all the likes. The gun ports were cut and lined as per an option in the instructions. The porthole locations were laid out using the templates provided and the brass rings were attached to the hull using some ac glue. The same brass ring used for the portholes was supposed to be used for the hawse holes just flattened out into an oval shape. After doing this I just didn’t think the ring was the appropriate size. I used some brass wire to form an oval for the outer hawse hole and went a little farther and cut and filed a piece of brass tubing to line the hole through the hull. The brass tube was eventually filed down flush with the inner bulwark. Since the hull will be painted I just used some wood filler to fill the gaps around the wire and tubing.
  17. _SalD_
    Nice job on the sills and lintels Bob. Stern is lookin good. I remember the inboard side of the bulwarks were a challenge to sand. Hope you're all recovered from the cold/bronchitis and good luck with quitting smoking.
  18. _SalD_
    Finished sanding the hull without having to use too much filler. After the sanding was complete the outer keel, stem and stern post were glued on. . Inner bulwark planking: Gluing the inner bulwark planking was pretty straight forward.
  19. _SalD_
    Thanks druxey and thanks for all the likes. No workshop but at least I have a nice view while sanding.
  20. _SalD_
    Planking around the stern knuckle proved to be interesting with some creative clamping. I found I had to trim (shaded area on plank) two of the central planks in order to maintain an even run of the planking. Completed planking
  21. _SalD_
    Used the first two sheets of planking which did approximately half the hull. All the port fore pieces had to be sanded down to match the width of the starboard side. All of the port and starboard center and aft pieces were the same size so no sanding was required for them. I also found it very helpful to label the back of each piece to avoid confusion as to what side and in what direction the planks go after they are removed from the sheet.
  22. _SalD_
    Great work Jack, love the jig.
  23. _SalD_
    Planking the hull: The kit comes with four sheets of pre-formed hull planking, two for the port side and two for the starboard side. The sheets are well labeled so you know where each piece belongs. Starting with the first two fore pieces, port and starboard, I noticed that they were not the same width. The port plank being quite a bit larger than the starboard one. Going on the assumption that the planking should be symmetrical on each side of the hull, I choose to sand down the port plank making it the same width as the starboard side. First set of fore and aft planking pieces in place. Planking continues Thank you for looking in and I appreciate the likes.
  24. _SalD_
    Garboard strake: Before fitting the garboard strake to the bulkheads I penciled in a centerline on the inner keel pieces to help align the planks. Beginning with the fore plank, it was soaked in hot water and then clamped in position on the hull. These pieces were allowed to dry and then glued in place. The same procedure was followed for the aft garboard strake. After the fore and aft pieces were set the center section was fitted in between them and glued in place. You may have noticed, and maybe you haven’t, but the picture background has changed. This is because I am back at my residence in Florida. The previous photos were at my house in Connecticut where we spend the holidays with the family and a few of months in the summer. My main workshop is still in Connecticut so I am relegated to the spare bedroom down here. Most of my toys…I mean tools are still in Connecticut so I will try to make do with what I have. Thank you for all the likes.
  25. _SalD_
    Thanks Bob. I was worried about getting the upper counter wet and having it warp out of shape.

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