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_SalD_

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Everything posted by _SalD_

  1. _SalD_
    Bulwarks: The forward bulwark was attached to the bulkheads as shown in the instruction booklet. I found that the wooden strip was thin enough that I didn’t need to soak it in order to shape it to the correct profile. In order to keep the lower edge of the bulwark even with the top of the deck line on the bulkheads I clamped a few pieces of scrape wood to a few of the bulkheads level with the deck. This helped support the bulwarks while trying to clamp them in place. The picture shows the scrape wood for the aft bulwark. After clamping the bulwark in place I removed the scrape wood so they wouldn’t be glued in place by any excess glue. Upper counter: The upper counter is VERY fragile and needs to be handled with care. The laser etch gun ports in these piece makes them easy to break while trying to bend it. I soaked the counter as instructed and formed it to shape at the stern. Everything looked good until the next morning when I went to check it and after drying it looked like this. Fortunately the kit provides two of these pieces. This time after soaking and positioning the counter around the stern I soaked and fitted a piece of scrape basswood in the same shape as the counter to provide some stiffening.
  2. _SalD_
    Fairing up the bulkheads: To fair up the bulkheads I attached a piece of 100 grit sandpaper to and old emery board using double sided tape. This worked well as the emery board was flexible enough to contour to the shape of the hull and stiff enough not to sag between the bulkheads.
  3. _SalD_
    Inner keel pieces: The inner keel piece is pretty straight forward and was cut and glued in place, leaving gaps for the mounting pedestals. Stern knuckle pieces: These two pieces were glued into place as per the instructions and then tapered after the glue had dried. Appreciate the likes, thank you.
  4. _SalD_
    Hi Bob, just found your new log and will be following along. Things good great so far. Good luck and be patient.
  5. _SalD_
    First I would like to thank everyone for the likes. Inner stem and stern post: The direction call for tracing the curved line (bearding line) onto a piece of paper that was supposed to be laser etched into one side of the inner stem and inner stern post pieces. This line was then to be transferred to the opposite side. However there was no line etched in them. I contacted a fellow MSW contributor, bobandlucy, who had completed this model and whose log I use for reference to see what he used for the curved line. Bob was kind enough to send me an updated parts drawing that he obtained showing the curved line that was supposed to be etched into the parts. Using this drawing I made a pattern of my own that I used to transfer the bearding line to the two pieces. The back of the pattern was shaded with a pencil and then the line was traced over to transfer the line. The pieces were then sanded down as called for in the instructions. Inner stem post Inner stern post
  6. _SalD_

    Hi Joanne, sorry to hear about your brother hope it's not too serious.  Regarding the shipbuilding supplies I live in Sarasota, FL and might be interested in buying some of his equipment if he lives close by.  Please let me know.  Thanks.

    1. JoanneC

      JoanneC

      Hi!  Sorry it’s taken me a while to get back to you. I am new to this site and it’s taking me a bit of time to find my way around it!

       

      You should contact my sister-in-law at Schwartz-shelly@hotmail.com.  Hope it works out!

  7. _SalD_
    Finished bulkheads. As a general comment on this kit so far, I found that all the pieces are well labeled so you know exactly where each piece belongs and guidelines are also provided to help with aligning these pieces.
  8. _SalD_
    Bulkheads: After the gluing the bulkhead spacers to either side of the central spine the bulkheads were then glued in place. Bulkheads were squared up using the same combination of Lego’s and the one inch angle. There are guide lines etched into one side of the central spine that helps to align the pieces. Thanks again for the likes.
  9. _SalD_
    The central spine: The first task was to glue the bulkhead spacer pieces to the central spine. While dry fitting these pieces it was apparent that the bulkhead spacer’s tabs that fit into slots on the central spine were a little off. A little sanding was required to make them fit. Although the directions called for the use of the half bulkheads to help square up the bulkhead spacer and the central spine while gluing, I found it easier to use a combination of Lego’s and one inch aluminum angle. Bulkhead spacers glued to one side of the central spine
  10. _SalD_
    druxey, Thanks for the heads up on bobandlucy's build and in fact I had already found it and have been in touch with Bob about certain parts of the build. Thanks for all the likes also.
  11. _SalD_
    Hello all. I have some time I my hands so I thought I would do a build log of the USCG HARRIET LANE that I got as a Christmas present (to myself). I wanted to try something a little different so the combination of paddlewheel and sails appealed to me. I’ve been away from MSW and the NRG for a few years and had always liked the forum discussions and model postings so I thought I would give it another go. The model’s scale is 1:96 (⅛" = 1' 0") and the overall length will be 28", width 8", height on base 16". The model was designed and instruction book was written by David Antscherl. The kit is from Model Shipways and was purchased from Model Expo. Description of the ship from the instruction book. The Harriet Lane was 177' 6" long and 30' 6" wide, with a 12' 0" depth in her hold. Her mode of power was provided by double marine steam engines driving two side paddles, as well as two masts for sailing. When launched, her armament was described as ‘light guns’. However, when she joined the West Gulf Squadron her firepower was increased. She was given a 4" rifled Parrott gun and a 9" Dahlgren forward, with two 8" Dahlgren Columbiads aft. Her full crew complement was 95. Launched in November 1859, she was named for the niece of President James Buchanan, who was unmarried. Harriet acted as his First Lady. Mandatory pictures of the box and contends.
  12. _SalD_
    Eric try going over the copper tiles with a wallpaper seam roller. I used one and it set the tile very nicely. See roller in picture below. don't press down too hard
  13. _SalD_
    Started on the second planking by laying out the position of the first wale based on the drawings. After drying overnight I started placing the planking and the other wales. Both sides were planked at the same time. I also cut out the gun port openings as I went. Not exactly sure on how to finish the planking at the Bow deck so I left it a little long for now.
  14. _SalD_
    Thanks Sjors Continuing with the stern planking I worked my way up from the curved lower transom to the upper transom. I used some lead shot to help keep the planking in place while the glue dried. Finished stern planking I left out some of the planking and the transom moulding because that moulding needs to line up with the main wales along the hull. Once the main wales along the hull are in place I will go back and cut in the transom moulding and finish the planking. I also need to finish shaping the top of the stern transom planking.
  15. _SalD_
    thanks Elijah
  16. _SalD_
    It's been a while since my last post for a couple of reasons. One, after getting back from my trip it took me a while to get back into the swing of things, and two, I was having a mental block, which for me is quite often, on how to shape the stern galleries. After some deliberations and some libations I finally shaped the galleries and glued then to the ship. Then I started on the second planking at the stern. Using a photocopy of the drawing showing the diagonal planking at the stern I cut out a pattern and taped it in place. Using the pattern I drew some guidelines to help position the planking at the correct angle. I realized after that once the first plank was glued in place the remaining guide lines weren't really needed. Both sides were completed and allowed to dry overnight. The next day I sanded the edges on the planking following the contour of the hull. The gun ports will be cut out later.
  17. _SalD_
    I finally found the piece of planking I was looking for....the last piece. Prior to closing up the hull I like to add a little 'treasure' for anyone who might find it. The next step was to cut out and square up the gunports and then to sand and smooth the hull planks. Needed to use some wood filler at the bow. I'm happy for the most part with the way the first layer of planking came out. In hindsight I probably should have tapered the planks at the bow contrary to what the directions said that it wasn't required. I'll be out of town for a few weeks so the shipyard will be shutdown for a while.
  18. _SalD_
    Continuing with the first layer of planking. Going slow but steady. I deviated a bit from the instructions on the planking placement and gunport openings. I've decided to place the planks in continuous pieces over the gunports and then go back and cut out the openings later. All the dummy gunports have been glued to the backside of the planks in their appropriate positions and marked on the exterior of the planking in order to cut them out. I'll let you know how this works out. The bow will need a little work to fill the gaps in the planking. I do have one question. The kit drawings show the gunports, more or less, perpendicular to the sheer of the ship. The gunports shown on the drawing from Herman Ketting's book shows them vertical. Although I personally like the looks of the ports that follow the sheer should they be vertical?
  19. _SalD_
    Yes it is although I have not tried it out yet. May fire it once or twice and then hang it on the wall.
  20. _SalD_
    Sorry for the long period between posts but it’s been a busy summer. I finally started the first layer of planking and for the most part I have been following the procedure outlined in the manual for placing the planks and dummy gun ports behind them. I made a little jig to pre-bend the planks to fit the sharp bend at the bow. I used a hand held steamer to soften the wood as I bent them. I order to make it easier to glue the planks in place I pre-positioned the planking along the bulkheads after steaming them and allowed them to dry overnight.
  21. _SalD_
    It's been a while since my last post but I've been working on my Father's Day's present that I treated myself to (it's always a good excuse for a new toy ). This is something I always wanted to try and it only took a few weeks. I won't go into a lot of detail just a few pictures. Started with this Finished product Now back to the ship.
  22. _SalD_
    Thanks Jay, and yes I refer to Jan's build quite often.
  23. _SalD_
    Jan thanks for the tips. That's a good idea to put tape on the exterior side of the upper bulkheads prior to planking. I was trying to think of a way to keep the planking from adhering to them so their removal would be easier.
  24. _SalD_
    Started to do some prep work prior to starting the planking. There is channel shaped wood stock that is to be cut and used for the dummy cannon ports. These pieces are installed behind the first layer of planking as the hull is planked. The ports are to be painted black so I gave the strips a few coats of black paint prior to cutting them and then I will just touch them up once they're installed. The directions also say to pre-drill the back of the dummy ports for the installation of the dummy cannon half's prior to installing them. I was wondering if it would be better to drill them after they're glued in place otherwise how can I ensure that all the holes will be in the right place. The directions also recommended covering the #6 and #12 bulkheads above the decks prior to installing the hull planking. #12 bulkhead, rubber band helped keep the pieces in place while installing. #6 bulkhead, this one was a little challenging, did it with the ship vertical.
  25. _SalD_
    Jan, I had thought about cutting in a rabbet at the stern and bow to make installing the planking easier. I should have done it first thing prior to setting the bulkheads which would have made it a lot easier but I wasn't confident enough about cutting the rabbet in before I knew exactly where it was located. Why make it easy when complicated works just as well I do plan on painting the bling. As of right now I'm thinking of making them look weathered and not brand new.

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