Martin W

Post Three
 
Platforms
Unusual in this type of kit, Chris has provided a short section of what would be the forward Platform below the lower deck.
In reality there would also be an aft platform which is not supplied.
 
These Platforms sat above the hold and are version of the Orlop deck on larger vessels.
I doubt very little will be seen of this with the hull planked and decked.
 
I considered the possibility of fabricating false frames and leaving an opening in the hull at this level, but what would be the ladderway above it is blocked by a bulkhead, and it is only clear above the Fore Hatchway. As a ladderway leading up to the Lower deck would be the only feature of interest I decided to pass.
 
Lower deck
This deck is another nice touch for what otherwise would be a re-inforcing piece to square up the bulkheads and provide  some rigidity to the hull.
 
This is also supplied in engraved plywood with the Hatchways and Ladderways detailed. The Fore Ladderway leads down to the Platform deck, or it would if the bulkhead wasn’t in the way.
 
My deck had some Laser burn on the engraved side which needed sanding to remove. This didn’t have any effect on the planking lines.

3681(2)text
With the Lower deck slotted into place, gently does it on this exercise, it can be seen that altho’ the hatches will be covered by gratings, the Ladderways simply open onto bulkhead tops.

3680(2)
The Upper deck base is placed roughly in position to gauge what will be visible of the lower decks.
The Upper deck Fore Hatch is covered by a grating, but without it there is a view directly down to the Platform deck, altho’ the deficiency in the ladderway will be visible.

3684
To rectify this would require removing a section from bulkhead 4 and a section of false keel between bulkheads 9 and 10 for the lower deck aft ladderway.
None of this of course is necessary but as my version will be open decks only, it is another option to think about, and I am sorely tempted.
 
B.E.
26/08/21
 

I was reluctant to do this off ship fairing on Flirt so I went light. It does help to get things moving more quickly once back on the ship I found by having the basic introductory shape done off ship. 

Fairing those parts 'off model' is only about removing a rough quantity of material so that it's easier when you have everything together. 
 
The quantities you see me removing in the manual were further faired in when the full was ready for overall fairing. 

Can you make a template from the plans? I think that would be helpful in getting the shape correct.

Post Two
 
Bulkheads
 
Fitting the bulkheads is a painless exercise, the one that gave me some concern is the lower stern pattern. (13-1)

3626
Fairing off the model is indicated but in this area it is all about degrees and I worry about how much to do off the model.
This is where the lower planking will sweep up to the transom and it needs to be a smooth convex curve without any hint of an angle.

032
This photo of my Pegasus build shows the run of planking and ultimately the fairing can only be done on the model using test planks.
 
For this reason, I will be very careful how much off model sanding I do in this area, and I don’t think I can trust myself with the Dremel.
I found that part 13 needed a little light sanding in the slot and several dry fits before it would slide smoothly down the keel to be glued to 13-1.

3679
These things are fragile and cannot be forced into position without the risk of damage.

3677(2)
The bow patterns are easier to fit, and will be easier to fair.

3678
With all the bulkheads in place I get my first real impression of the hull size and shape.
She is chunkier than Pegasus and is pleasing to my eye.
 
The Bow and Stern bulkheads will now be removed for preliminary fairing, at this point the remainder of the bulkheads  are only dry fitted but will probably not require removal again.
 
B.E.
25/08/21
 
 
 

Building the Sphinx - Post One
This is where the build starts in earnest, I always start a build with a keel support, partly to hold the hull in the early stages and partly to keep the false keel straight.
It also provides a level surface to check square.

3625

3624

3623
This will be modified several times during the course of the build.
 
I don’t intend to do a step-by-step assembly log, there is the excellent manual for that.
I do have to mention what a wonderful job Chris and James have done in producing the manual, probably the best I’ve ever seen.
 
My initial view of what I have seen in the box is very positive, I have not concerned myself with checking every part against the parts list as I know Chris will respond to any issues that may crop up.
 
I will restrict this log to commenting on areas where I have had difficulty or found problems (hopefully very few), areas where I have made modifications, and the approach I have taken in tackling different stages of the build where it diverts from the indicated path.
 
Time to introduce bulkheads to false keel.
 
B.E.
 
24/08/21
 

10.25hrs this morning and the much anticipated box arrived.

Well protected.

A feast for the eyes.
 

Looks like there will be no furlough for you Wills, long days in the shipyard  ahead.
 
You can relax for a while tho' the stuff needs to be sorted into separate boxes for ease of working.
 
B.E.
24/08/21

Thanks for the heads up Chris, I am a compulsive book buyer; that one  looks interesting but will have to wait awhile.
 
I think I'm pretty settled on the shade I want for this particular model, but in practice it's all artistic license, the official colour for topsides on British ships was any colour as long as it's black. 
The Admiralty order dates back to 12th July 1715, and is cited by L.G.Carr-Laughton in his book Old ship Figure-heads and sterns.
 
This would apply more certainly in relation to a modest ship like Sphinx, but my model will display her with a fetching shade of  blue as ground to the friezes , which in practice she probably didn't have either.
 
B.E.
 

I do these color boards too. I was amazed that the Cerulean Blue I bought from three different manufacturers, Golden, Grumbacher, and Winsor & Newton are completely different.  I was thinking ‘Cerulean’ means ‘whatever’ Blue. 
 
I also prefer Admiralty Yellow Ochre over Gold for decorations, just seems right.

I didn't realise that James may have been referring to a different 'Red'
 
I picked up the use of 'flat red' from members who had used it on their builds. I think I first used it back in 2017 on my Model shipways Pinnace build, and have used it on all builds since, latterly on the Royal Barge kit.
 
It always pays to test any paint on a strip of the wood to be used, before applying paint to the model.
 
B.E.
 

Thinking About colour
 
There are four main colours other than black to be used on the model.
Red, Blue, White, Yellow, and shades thereof.
 
On every build I have done the actual shade has exorcised my mind, particularly for the colour blue.
 
I am interested to see how various tones look against the mainly Pearwood finish.

3538(2)
This is my rough colour comparison chart painted on a Pearwood background. All I am interested in here is how the colour relates to what will be the bright finish between Wale and Waist rail.
 
The colour selection features paints from Vallejo, Admiralty (Jotika/Caldercraft) and Humbrol. The majority are water based but the Admiralty Red Ochre and Humbrol RAF Blue are oil versions as I didn’t have the acrylic versions to hand.
 
I favour the more muted tones as seen on contemporary models, and I hope with this build I can settle on a colour that does not require mixing as that relieves me of working out a formula for re-mixes.
 
 
My initial thoughts are:-
Vallejo Flat Red   - inboard works and some deck fittings.
 
Vallejo Grey/blue - Ground to the Topsides and stern decorations. (Humbrol RAF Blue (96) runs a close second.)
 
Admiralty Yellow Ochre – Frieze decorations, but with other shades of yellow and white for toning and highlights.
 
I don’t intend to use gold on any area of the model.
 
There is a very good section on painting decorative friezes in Volume 11 of the ffm, the techniques of which can be applied to the brass etched versions supplied with the kit to good effect.
 
I am undecided about the lower hull as yet, if it’s good enough I may not paint it at all, but if I do I may need to tone a bright white down a little.
 
This is the last of my musings before that large box hopefully arrives next week and the build begins in earnest.
 
 
B.E.
21/08/21
 

I have it and the stove, but mine are going in Winnie, if I can get that far once I start it. That will keep me occupied for a couple of years. 

Not as many as with Pegasus I hope, this is a very fine offering from Chris. 🙂
 
Thanks Jason.
 
B.E.

I'm sure you'll do Chris' kit proud BE...and I also suspect that there will be a number of further enhancements so I'll strap in for the ride.

Thank you Jacek,
 
I used the AotS series book The 24-gun Frigate  Pandora which gives details of the ships boats rigging. In addition to the Yawl a rigged Pinnace is also shown.
I also used Steel's references for the rigging of ships boats for the mast dimensions etc.
 
You will find details of my builds of small boats under the kit build logs 1751-1800 section.  (Ships Boats, Page 9, of the log index.) The Yawl build follows on from the Cutter build.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.
 
 

I have entertained myself this week building Chuck’s delightful little mini kit of the double Capstan derived from his HMS Winchelsea kit.

3534(3)
At 1:48 scale it won’t unfortunately fit the forthcoming Sphinx build but it will sit in her case as an example of such a device of the mid-18th century.
 
I am ahead of the game in one respect, I have already made the 22’ Yawl which will also be supplied with the kit.

610(2)
At least one tiny element of the Sphinx build will be rigged.

620(2)

631
I have already decided to have only the Pinnace displayed on the hull so the Yawl too will sit within the case of the completed Sphinx.
 
B.E.
20/08/2021
 

 
 

I have started my HMS Sphinx build log as a word document to explain (to myself) how I plan to tackle the various stages.

Hi Glenn,
I’ve got an A4 sheet of notes to myself of questions and possible mods, but I need to wait until I see the model before I commit to anything.
 
I’m certainly thinking of minimal deck planking and the addition of Lodging knees, Hanging knees, ledges and carlings.
On the hull I’ve mused about the possibility of Open hull framing in the area of the Orlop/ lower deck; the kit does include the Orlop deck and ladderway down from the Lower deck.
 
It’s a very exciting prospect, made more pleasurable by the thought that I don’t have to worry about where to put it, altho’ my younger self would probably have masted and rigged it.
 
 
Regards,
B.E.

A great approach to this model BE. I will really enjoy watching it develop, it will be an inspiration. I’d already thought I’d not rig it just because of the size and because so much of the deck detail is lost to view. Are you considering exposed frames?

Very tempted to follow your lead (not for the first time!) and go down the Navy Board route when I get mine. 

Wow B.E.
your new project looks very inspiring, it will be a beautiful admirality model indeed...
 
Nils

WoW it’s like Pegasus on steroids, 11½ feet longer and 3¼ feet wider at full scale.
Come on Chantelle. 😉
 
B.E.

Looking forward to your take on this model in Navy Board fashion. The Marshall paintings are very inspirational!

Can’t wait to see your interpretation of Chris’s design B.E. I’m sure it will be something special, so I’ve pulled up a front row seat to follow along.

HMS Sphinx 1775 Sixth Rate 20 guns ship - 1:64 Scale model from Vanguard.
 
This will be my latest project, a project the size and type of which, only a short while ago, I thought I would not be doing again.
I hadn’t counted on Chris Watton’s ability to beguile me in this late stage of my model building career to return to another 18th century square rigged naval ship.
 
However, as Jim’s prototype build developed, I thought what a fine Navy board style model this would make given the detail included in the kit, and importantly proper deck beams, and full run decks unimpeded by hull carcase bulkhead structures.
The inclusion of an engraved proper lower deck with hatches and ladderways down to an orlop deck, is a nice touch and opens further opportunities.
 
I will be building this kit as a Navy board style model without masts or rigging, and that way space considerations will not be a big issue.

 

Joseph Marshall paintings of Sphynx / Sphinx held by the Science Museum. (They are available for purchase as prints.)
 
These two perspective paintings by Joseph Marshall commissioned by George 111 will be my inspiration, as was his painting of the cutter Alert for that build.
 
Altho’ delivery is still a week or so away, I am gathering information, and I have some jottings about possible additions/modifications, but I won’t pre-empt the arrival of the kit.

I have also ordered the Lines and Profile plan from the N.M.M. (Ref j4272)
 
Apart from providing additional information, these make very attractive art works to my eye at least, and the framed print will join those of Pegasus and Cheerful on my walls.
 
I have also realised that my copy of The 24-Gun Frigate Pandora (AotS series – by John McKay and Ron Coleman) has much useful information relevant to Sphinx.
 
So, as I continue finger tapping on my desk, in eager anticipation of that large box arriving, I will entertain myself poring over the pdf of the voluminous build manual.
 
B.E.
11/08/2021