schnu

Hello again...
 
the work on the foremast goes very satisfying. I am ready with the first, the lower, part. Next will be the upper part of the mast. Now, that I do this masting this way I understand how the process works best. My problem with my first build, the Half Moon, - or better with the instructions by Corel - was that there was hardly no space between the crows nest and the mast itself for the shrouds. It was very tricky to fasten them. But here with the Caroline there is more to see and understand how the shrouds thing will work. Thus I do... (As my father told me: You will never ever stop to learn... what a wise guy he is) And now I can see how it is to be done to create the masts step by step and to fix the shrouds. I like it really
 
But pls see the pics and dont hesitate to comment if you ever want. In Germany it is winter time now, and in the region I live in winter means cold, fog, snow and a lot of time in the shipyard (as I have always my four-week-vacation from mid Dec to mid Jan because of the dogs. Its more easy to take a walk as long as it is light and in the winter evenings fall fast). So I will be able to have a lot of rigging work in my vacation.
 
Cheerio and best wishes to you all
 
Max

A sunday update:
 
One of the main differences I saw between the BB plans and the Clayton´s and museum Vasa pictures are the top mizzen stay and the lines that hold the spars of the main mast topsail to the mizzen mast (braces).  Unfortunately in the pictures is impossible to distinguish how are they fixed some of them.  So, I figured out how to install them thinking in a logical form.  Here you can see my solutions:
 

 
Saludos, Karl
 

One of the details I wanted to add was a grapnel anchor..
The main problem was how to manufacture these..
 
An idea came up in my head using a 1,5 mm brass tube and 5 pcs. of 0,4mm wire and I started working on it. 
Underneath again a visual sequence of the idea.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Even though the result is not bad, especially after blackening, I wasn't satisfied with the “hooks” and the wire i used, .."peanuts" maybe.., but anyway, I started on version 2.
This time i used a 2mm brass tube and a slightly thicker (0,5 mm) brass wire and also a different hook type.
And by using 2 mm brass tube, I could shape the shaft a bit more, but.., unfortunately it could only contain 4 wires..
 

 

 
It’s still not perfect, but I leave it for now…
 
This is the final result after some fine-tuning, blackening and a cable attached.
 

Hi together
 
Well, I am through with my boat earlier than I thought... At least: Now :D
 
I have atached some pics (as usual) to show the result of an almost one-week-Job. I had a lot of fun although I thought at the start it will NEVER be something similar to a boat. But I admit - indeed it a boat.
 
Thx for your attention and interest
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Amazing little boat, I was wondering, what is that proxon tool on the first picture?

Hello all my friends
 
my boat grows up every hour Just a Little update to Show you the Progress. The first pic Shows my way to bend the railings.
 
I think tomorrow I can end the boat-building era
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Hi ffolks...
 
back from vacation I started to continue the work on the boat. It is a double-planked POB-boat, about 13 centimeters Long.
I attached some pics to Show the Progress and the Status at the Moment. Still a lot to do, but it becomes ist shape more and more.
 
Thank you for your Attention
 
Cheerio
 
Max
 

Oooops... didnt work proper...
 
so I have additional pics in a new post
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Hi everyone:
 
After countless rigging I finished to place the sails on the foremast.
 

 
As you can see the lines are still not fixed because I expect to give them one last adjustment, and mainly because I changed some of the rigging following the pictures of the 1:10 model in Vasa´s museum.   Doing this, it was necessary to change the order of the position of the lines to avoid crossing lines to the belaying pins, and this operation was easier made on progress.
 

 
Thanks for watching,
 
Saludos, Karl

All the lower mast stays have been completed, time to turn my attention to the top masts.
 

Hi friends:
It seems that I am approaching the final steps, now in the process of placing the sails on the masts.  As the first one I selected the fore sail or fore course.  One thing to mention is the great number of rigging it has:  18 lines for this sail only!!
 
Here some pictures:
 

 
Thanks for your likes and comments.
 
Saludos, Karl
 

Hi there, I am not sure if there is already such a topic, if there is please delete this one and I will search again.
 
 
Anyway I was wondering what you are planning to get for Christmas, or what would be a good Christmas wish. (Preferably something to do with ship modelling ^^) 
 
 
In your opinion what are the best tools and equipment to get for Christmas (for experienced or novice modellers)?
 
 
 
 

I'm not asking Santa for tools, wood, or books.   I'm asking for time.  I want a few more hours each day for building. 

Hi Guys thanks for the ticks
 
Jason I did not make the futtock strops as per the instructions I bought Amati 3mm deadeye futtock strops and hooks much better and very cheap. Some photos below.
 

Painted matt black

 

 

Cont'
 
 
 




For the head and foot, I used balsa block to shape them. I think there is certainly better wood for it, but balsa is the current wood material I have enough to build them. 
 


Now, the head on the stern gallery is added. Again, to ease my work I removed the club shape on the head, and made it smooth instead.
 


By using leftover wood from the stern filler, I added them at the bottom. That little curve might help designing my gallery
 


And again, plank them all using 0.2mm x 4mm walnut strips which left from my Pearl.
 


Up till now, it's already a week. 
When every piece is glue, it looks like this. Anyway, it's still not glued to the ship.
 

 
 
After painting...
 


Now it's time to add the white border line to the gallery. By using unused (due to modification) 2mm x 5mm walnut strip from the kit, I profiled a 'U' shape it like what we can see on the Trincomalee.
 


So, this is now the gallery looks like now.  

I'm running out of extra wood strips and couldn't continue already. Anyway, I've just placed an order from CMB and it might take around 2 weeks to reach Malaysia. I also included some cast metal of Amati, which at least looks better than the Corel kit ones in the website. Let's hope for the best!

Whilst waiting, I'll continue on the bulwark planking and other fittings first.

Thanks for viewing!

Hi guys:
 
Continuing with the sail details  I arrive to the Lateen sail.  At first it appeared to me that the form to arrange the folding rigging lines, according to the Plan, was not logical.  So I tried to see them in the pictures of the 1:10 model at the Vasa museum and Clayton´s  and although it is difficult to see the details one thing is clear: there were different.
Revising again the drawings in the Manual instructions I noticed another inconsistency between the drawing that comes in the Plan and the one in the Instruction manual and although is not complete it seems to be the correct one.  Finally I decided to use the latter with some part of my own.
 
PLAN:

 
MANUAL:

 
MY OPTION:

 
Saludos, Karl
 
 

Continuation . .
 
Some images with the templates positioned to see the overall appearance . .
01 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100056_zps37d19a23.jpg

02 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100055_zps5847bfc1.jpg

03 Brick%20by%20JackAubrey/P1100063_zpse27edb64.jpg

Have a good weekend, this afternoon if I'll can go to buy the plywood then I'll have something to work on this weekend, otherwise I'll rest (there's Superbike races) or prototyping the planking . . I'll see. 
Jack.

Thanks schnu!
 
The pencils are PITT CHARCOAL by Faber Castell, you should be able to get them in a shop where they sell art equipment. I also did not know these before but came across them in search for a pencil which was "as black as possible" for my caulking. You won't find any blacker than charcoal 
 
I would do a lot different with my ship as well if I had to start over. But that is for a next project. I can only say that it's because of this forum that I learned so many new things. I am by far not the first one to experiment or write about decks here  , but reading the other contributions and seeing what other do let's say "inspired me" to go beyond what the manual says (that easy ) and do a bit of scratch building and testing myself.. 
And that makes the hobby that much more interesting!

Nice progress schnu, you seem to be able to work very precisely with the tools you have and you have a good eye for detail.
Interesting that you notice the scale issues. I myself have found several scale issues on my Bluenose (in fact, the whole thing is out of scale) and I am starting to think this is part of life as long as you are building from a box 
In line of what Vivian said (and the rest of us thought) I (would) deal with it the pragmatic way: enhance what you can and what makes fun from scratch or by modifying parts, leave the rest as it is. After all, you do this for fun, don't you?
But I think you figured that out already 

I agree schnu, Occre has some kinks to work out with their plans.  However, scale is truly an issue that's about 100% impossible to fix without either scratch building the whole ship or certain parts, as I see you have done.  When you get to the rigging, you may notice that some of the lines are out of scale.  To correct this, I use a thinner cordage(white, in my case from a Midwest model) which was dyed the color of actual rope through submersion in dark coffee.  I don't know if this is something you'd like to do when you get to that phase in construction, but that's how I corrected it... Just my thoughts.  Your La Candelaria is coming along well, keep it up!

I have now finished the tender. It was probably the last time I had to curve planks with steam.
 
Chapter 16: Tender
 

 
I have started working on the portholes. 48 of those tiny pieces to make and my first contact with rope.
 
At some point in the process, when I can work with open windows, I'm going to varnish the hull.

Schnu, the other side of the story is that any company must make profit, otherwise it has no reason to exist and will go bankrupt sooner or later. My point is just that this necessity does, in my opinion, not quite fit to the needs of a model builder. But, as a model builder, you have the possibility to invest time (and money) to enhance your model. I just think that sometimes the choices made by the companies are a bit awkward. I would rather have them leaving things less detailed or even incomplete (for the modeler to work out or enhance) then have them make things more detailed but just plain wrong...
 
About the oil: I used hard oil (hartöl / huile dure) by Auro which I bought in Bern, but I am quite sure another furniture oil will do as well. Auro is just less toxic  . In my last experiment I have first oiled the wood and then varnished it (over the oil). The effect of the oil was reduced (or masked?) a bit by the varnish but it still turned out well enough for my purpose where I did not sand. The part which I sanded after oiling and before varnishing lost the effect of oiling. Now after a week or two it still looks good to me so I am going to use that technique. I would recommend for you to do a little test as well before you do the whole ship. you never know how well your wood responds and it would be a shame to redo the whole ship, wouldn't it? And a simple test does not take that much time (and can be fun as well, plus you learn  )
 
About the charcoal: well I did it the wrong way of course. I had to: since I have planked the deck almost 20 year ago (  I must be getting old) and there were no internet forums at that time and I completely trusted the (non-existent) manual, I did not do any caulking because I did not know. So I had to do it after the deck planks were on the deck, which complicates the thing a lot, since it is not easy to get the color between the planks. 
If you color the sides of the planks before planking the deck, you do not have this problem. I tested this in my last test as well.
Anyway, it it true that charcoal smears when you do not fix it with a spray after drawing. But there are "charcoal pencils" out there which are like a normal pencil to hold, so your hands won't get dirty using them and you will not make black stains on your ship (or elsewhere) with your fingers. Then, I found out during my test that the charcoal did not penetrate my wood (you might need to test this on yours), meaning that after sanding only lightly the excess charcoal was gone. It did, as far as I can see, not affect the rest of the planking (via the sanding dust for instance). But my wood is fairly dark so maybe it is just not enough to be seen on my wood. Again: test it and you'll know it 
 
Good luck! 

Hi schnu, thanks for stopping by in my log 
Yes there is a big difference between oiling and varnishing and it doesn't stop there. You can also wax the wood, stain it, and and and.
I am really not an expert on this but I came to the idea of oiling wood because of two tables that I have which are made from nut wood, which I have oiled.
The main difference to varnish is that the oil is sucked into the wood where varnish is, like paint, a layer on the wood. So the wood keeps its natural feeling when you touch it. It still feels more or less like untreated wood. Also, when you scratch it (lightly), you can just sand the area a bit, oil it again and you'll see no damage. When you scratch the varnish or paint, you will probably have to sand the whole object and varnish or paint the whole object again to make it look like it did before.
There are different oils you can buy and you will find that most of these will make the wood look more "lively" by enhancing the contrast. So, if the wood has a nice structure, you will see it better after oiling. This is generally not the case when varnishing (in my limited experience). However, varnishing seals off the wood which oil does not. Like Julian already remarked, oiling may need or generally needs to be repeated every so often. Hence my attempt to oil and then varnish.
As to the scale, yes it's a drag. I suspect the source of the errors to be quite a wide range, from "human error" to the producer of the kit just refitting a similar old kit with some changes and sell it as a model of the new ship. In my case, there probably were several schooners around with rough similarities to the Bluenose. Maybe they just took the drawings of one of these, made some changes for the "known specifics of the Bluenose" and called it the Bluenose. I don't know. Another likely case it that at this scale some things need to be simplified and there are different ways to do this. In the end I fear it is a question of budget. It takes a lot of time and money to do the research and there is always a point where a company says the budget is used up and the rest of the research needs to be replaced by assumptions. This sometimes leads to odd choices I think. And is a contrast to the world of their customers the modelers, which generally do not want to rush but instead take the time to get the details right.
 
Anyway I try to take it lightly and enhance the model where I feel I can do it and where it makes sense  
In that sense: I did not measure the door yet   

The hull planking is wonderful; it came out very symmetric. I really like the picture number 7, It looks like you made the half of the model and mirrored the other half with a software 

hello all I am sure you are getting bored by now, unfortunately here is another visual onslaught for you nhahahahaha(insert evil laugh)