safemaster
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I figured out the belaying points...the 4th chain and toggle from aft with a single block, the parral ropes will be spliced at the ends with a long tackle block and the fall belayed to a cleat or eyebolt on the deck a. Kirill I'm going by this illustration that has the same setup as the museum model. Michael D.
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fmodajr reacted to a post in a topic:
Reale De France by safemaster - Heller
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
Reale De France by safemaster - Heller
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I'm working out the parral arraingment using 0.25mm line and at the moment trying to figure out how to rig and where to belay the 4 lines?. English ships of the time have the lines spliced together about 3ft down with a long tackle block hooked to the parral rope and a single block hooked to an eyebolt in the deck at the base of the mast, did the French rig them in similar fashion?, oh and those black beads are temporary as I await for the wood beads, although do like the contrast. Michael D.
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Heller - 1:92 - converted from Soleil Royale kit
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mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic:
SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Heller - 1:92 - converted from Soleil Royale kit
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Yes exactly Kirill it's something I've always wanted to try and it sounds like you have had great success it!! Michael D.
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Heller - 1:92 - converted from Soleil Royale kit
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Hi Marc, Well as much as I would love to build the Corel kit, I settled on the Airfix kit primarily to see how much detail I can induce at a smaller scale and to represent her as displayed in the museum ie: no painted figures/details , but fully masted and rigged using bobbin thread down to 100wt for most of the running rigging. Michael D.
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
SAINT PHILIPPE 1693 by Heinrich der Seefahrer - Heller - 1:92 - converted from Soleil Royale kit
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Parallel projects me?, probably not as I'd end up with two hybrid builds of each other. Michael D.
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Hi Chris, This is good information as I have never noticed this small detail and Marc's picture is especially beneficial since the Vasa is up next for me. How about using styrene strips or wood, bevel the edges with an exacto knife or file and glue them together creating the grooves, sand with 100 grit paper for the wood grain, add simulated nails cut and test fit then paint?, just a thought. Your conversion intrigues me and looking forward on your progress. Michael D.
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EJ_L reacted to a post in a topic:
Reale De France by safemaster - Heller
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Heinrich der Seefahrer reacted to a post in a topic:
Reale De France by safemaster - Heller
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Hi Kirill, Yes I do, although I want to try and transfer the pattern on the paper flags to an iron material for cloth, we'll see how that works out, if not I'll use the paper flags. Michael D.
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Great info Kirill, very much appreciated. I've been working on the main yard and still have a long way to go yet, but wanted to do a mock up to get an idea where to position the yard on the mast, since the sails will be furled I need to know how far to lower the yard without the large flag hitting the deck. I think where it sits now will work. Up next will be making the parrels and test fitting them before removing the yard and attaching the sail. Michael D.
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Hubac's Historian reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Soleil Royal by John Clements - Heller - 1/100
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John Clements reacted to a post in a topic:
Le Soleil Royal by John Clements - Heller - 1/100
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Appreciate your input Kirill and just admire the rigging on your Spanish Galleon, the one area I really need to get more proficient at is introducing a more natural sag in the lines. Michael D.
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It looks great! and love the seascape scene also. Always wanted to build this one and may have to start searching. Thanks for sharing your progress and really enjoy all your builds. Michael D.
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Pretty much how I do it, thanks for pointing out the belaying part I left out and the illustration Rich, that helps a lot!.👍 Michael D.
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Hi John, Love the work/modifications you're doing, those fleur -De- lis must of been a real pain to do by hand, well done!. I love the color scheme as well and noticed you filled in the awful space in the knee of the bow, something I wished I had done along with the other mods you did. It does make for nice piece when completed even with all it's shortcomings which I didn't find out until after I completed it, that's when I made a late in the game decision to set her in a waterline dio, made a world of difference and something to consider?. Keep up the fantastic work and looking forward
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Marc my go to for thread is wal-mart, joanns fabric stores, they carry the coats and clark brand I use for the running rigging. I use the zap a gap medium ca+ as it does not soak into the thread as much. I coat all my lines with thinned pva glue and hang them with the weight of a binder clip for a few minutes before I install them. I've found the less tension the better in keeping the lines stable, when rigging the stays do all the lower at the same time first, then all the top mast stays at the same time etc, when completed then secure the lanyards on all the shrouds, doing it this way
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I really enjoy the rigging phase the most and need to get better at it, but pretty much trial and error Marc and looking at others technique, especially Kirill and Dafi, with no disrespect to anybody on this site, but those two are the best I've seen...but honestly glue is your best friend and for me just a simple overhand knot 90% of the time. Bobbin thread works great for seizing the lines for the running rigging as this stuff is fairly thin and depending on the scale .40 awg copper is almost human hair thin. Michael D.
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No problem Frank, I slipped the line with a knot at the end behind the shroud so it would not pull through, crossed over the shroud and loop it back under, then feed the line behind that shroud and the adjacent one and pull tight while pulling down the shroud to tighten things up and repeat. When you get the last shroud just tuck it in behind the woolding. Hope that helps. Michael D.
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