foxy

Moving on from the last pictures of the mast's, now I can test fit as I go along.

Then its back to the lower deck.

Hanging knees was the next thing, using coffee sticks I acquired from my visit to California last year.

After painting white, fixed with PVA to existing wood sides and painted all white.




Both sides done, its on to decking out this deck.




More soon me thinks.

Foxy

 

Thanks Keith and Mike.
 
Yes your right Mike.
First ship with a wood deck be it plastic in the main.
 
Did this before reading the AoV, copied the Heller plastic deck, but will sort on the upper , quarter decks plus not for getting poop deck.
 
Hope the detail will hide most of the wrong doing    as this deck will be hidden.
 
As you see I have all the right books now
 
foxy

So now to the masts.

Added bras rod to the centre's of fore/main and mizzen masts.
Not really ness, but for strength I went ahead and did this.


Next it was the rings around masts, they were not sharp enuff I thought, so sanded and replaced with slaters plastic strips.



These were painted black Using admiralty Paints(water based).





Will add more later for other decks as I go along.

Foxy

Next comes the detailing of the lower deck, with Dafi's excellent pictures of his work on this deck has helped me. plus he sent with the etch some seconds he built, but to him were under par for his work.
 
To me they were just what I was looking for, the capstans I used but made the riding bitts ,main pump from evergreen plastic.
Here shows the main and jeer capstons, these saved me a lot of work I can tell you.

Next it was making the riding bits.
Sandwiched two pieces of evergreen together to make the thickness.




Measured up and finished with the bits.
.

Next in turn were the main pumps all located on this deck.



Once I had these items done it was the turn of the hatch's gangway's , These again had to be scratch built using evergreen plastic.

Used dafi's etch grills at this stage for some of the hatch's.

Later I cut out the gangway's to fit ladders.
 
Very Important at this stage to make sure all line's up, masts/ hatchs and capstans, being that there are two capstans, one on lower and one on middle deck which could be used as single or together.
 
So next it will be the masts.
Foxy

Well time to show the inners of the hull to get the right thickness.
I used evergreen plastic and maple wood for the inside planking.


At the same time worked on the lower deck planking


This deck come's in two parts, glued both together.
The planking is wrong as the joins should be three to four planks apart.
My first mistake, till I took advice, but as its a deck you will not see I will put it down to learning about planking.


Finished deck, then its test fit to hull.



Note the maple fitted to lower deck.

Next was spraying a primer for plastic and brass.

Drilled- cut out the two for'd windows.



Seems the primer is good for resin too.

Foxy

Well time for a change, and seems most go for the guns, so gun's it is.
I will be working on these throughout the build.
First the barrels come in two parts and the trucks in five parts, then there's Dafi's King George crest and eyebolts, plus trunnion caps .
Made up the barrels.

The trucks.


'Hey presto'.

Added trigger caps to the 32 pounders out of plastic.

Added eyebolts and KG Crest.

60 done for the lower and middle decks.

Lower gun has the flintlock trigger from Dafi's etch, plus the KG motif on the barrel.

More soon.

Foxy

Thanks Daniel .
 
Hi Keith.
 Well if it was not for Daniels etch and resin set, plus his very extensive posting of his lower deck detail, I to would have gone the wood ship direction.
I like working in plastic, so this has proved a challenge for me to also get as much detail on the gun decks.
 
Moving on with my build, I started on the hull and stern area first, most it seems go for the building of the guns, I to am going down that road, first to keep me grey cells ticking over plus to not lose interest in the build, working on one area of the ship will soon make it hard work, an interest fade..
 
Right enuff rattling, on with the show.

 
After cleaning up the stern I sprayed a plastic/brass primer overall, 'will explain later why later'.
First the stern etch fitted, less the eye bolts which I will fit when all is finished with the windows etc.
Filled in pot holes to the inside, later sand down.

Then added the Dafi's victory sign , it comes with a template so you cannot go wrong on the spacing of the letters.



Next it was the crown, 'now this might seem strange', when the ship comes with the three feathers of the Prince of Wales.
I am sure most know about this, but for those that do not, the plumes came from Nelsons last battle and were retrieved for the second rate HMS Prince, that unfortunately sank at this battle, the plume was rescued and placed on the Victory later.
But my build is before the battle, so there is a picture of the crown in the wardroom of victory's upper deck.
That's the reason for replacing the plume for a crown.

I had Dafis etch one made up but it pinged off into the wilderness, so had to scratch build this, But still had the etch small parts on the fret, so saved me making them.


Next I added the Dafi's etch rigols to the hull.

Also added Dafi's resin steps, using CA, this job you have to be very care full with as some need sanding down to fit flush against the hull side.



Doing all this before adding first primer of paint.

More soon.

Foxy

 

Books I am using are:-
 
 
Anatomy of HMS Victory= by John McKay.
Seaforth Historical Ships, HMS Victory= by Jonathan Eastland & Iain Ballantyne.
Owners workshop manual of HMS Victory=by Haynes(Royal Navy).
The Anatomy of Nelsons ships=by C Nepean Longridge.
Rigging period ships = by Lennarth Petersson.

Started by removing the single style steps.


Having studded the plans I found the lug support for the bower anchor was in the wrong place, so had to make another.


Using evergreen plastic for this item.


Cleared all detail:- three feathers(later for a crown), removed the Victory name plate from the rear

Will replace with the Dafi fret of this sign.


More soon Foxy

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Looks good on the photo's Frank, I think I used 0.1mm line for the ratlines but used a simple overhand knot which is less bulky that clove hitches given the 1:100 scale.
 
B.E.

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Thanks very much Lawrence, much better now thanks  .
 
Well have been busy of late with all the top ropes strung.



Left loose till main stay ropes have passed over mast/shroud.

Then tightened up.



With the main stay ropes in place.



One point is the main stay ropes to the bowsprit.
As all know they pass through the bowsprit and then attach to block and tackle.
For those doing this build, its advisable to add the blocks near the knights head before adding the netting and booms.
This will be a lot easier.
The blocks I used for this were of Syren manufacture and can move if ness.



Next its the stay ropes from masts to channels etc.

This is the sequence I am following for this static build.
Having good plans of the rigging helps, so far its standing rigging I am working on.

Thanks guys for all your imput and likes.

All the best Frank. 

Well its been a bit hard going, as I should have done the fire buckets earlier, anyone having a go at this should think on this.
Now having enuff KG etched crests(thanks to Daniel)I started thinking on how to place them with the shroud ropes done.

I added a strip of plastic from the tops left over part, stuck this behind to the top of the plastic rear bulkhead of the poop deck.

Then used plastic glue to hold buckets, later will add CA to the handles.





Later when all settled will paint handles and surrounding area black.

Next its on to the upper shroud ropes.
Used .63mm for the lower and for the upper will use .30mm black.

For both shrouds I will use .08mm for the ratlines.

Frank. 

Thank you Daniel.

Tis to the fire buckets using dafis etched KG parts.

First how NOT to remove fire buckets from spru.

Note bad cuts to the rear of the buckets.
Use a proper cutting tool and leave a little to file to shape.
The KG etched parts were formed with round pliers.

Should look like this.


Twenty one are needed for the quarter deck, but a few extra will help later for the crew to carry maybe.


The buckets come in black plastic, but to make a difference I painted them leather(as new).
They were tarred inside and later outside.
'My choice'!!!!.
 
Frank   
 

Well its to the tops I be going.
Removed the DE etched parts from Dafis  fret and found some of the deadeyes loose.


So after making sure all was fixed down ship shape I then filed the burrs off both ends of the etched parts.
Drilled out the holes in the tops so the etched futtock shrouds would push fit through the holes.


Left loose till later.

Then its six aside for the Fore and Main tops.


four aside for the Mizzen.


Now I know why I did not complete the ratlines yet, is most fiddly at this point to secure ropes etc to the belaying pins.


With that in mind and having Dafis etched motives for the fire buckets, its to that I am next working on.

.

More soon shipmates.

Frank. 

Thanks guy's,' yep', on the mend.
 
Well with the lower shrouds done its to the tops we are.
 
Using Dafis etched parts and Heller deadeye's.
I have glued the deadeyes to the etched frames, no need to worry about size as there all the same,'phew'.





Note the hooks below, these are for the futtock shrouds, will attach ropes to these before hooking to the main frame of theDEs.
 
One other thing you may need to file the Heller tops to fit etched parts, Dafi does suggest gluing these in in his hints and tips.
Very good advise.

Frank. 

Sorry for the delay in posting pictures, had a spot of time in hospital.

So its back to the Victory again.

With a picture of the mouse and eye for the main stays.


Was very small to make, but I think it came out all right.

Next its the sails in progress with 8 more to make.



Still to add the tassle's and blocks.



More to come soon me thinks.

Frank. 

Your shrouds came out nice keep up the good work.
David B

Hi Ronald.
The photo etch comes from Dafis wonderful etched sets.
If you contact him I am sure he will help you.
Just hit on his sig and send a message.
As for the wood deck, well its 2mm and 3mm I used and came from Cornwall model boats.
Just type this in and you should be able to find there site.
I used maple wood for this build.
 
Moving on with the stay's done for standing rigging its time for the ratlines to be done.
 
I thought in this scale that if I tied them it would be oversize.
So the simple way seemed the best.
Just glue to the shrouds.



To save time and glue I did all the shrouds with three rows, then left to dry and cut off the excess.



This is time consuming but it works!!!.



One other thing I did was to move the Anchor rest forward between the first two chains, this allowed the anchor to sit right later.

Frank.  

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Hi Rich
 
Your Vic is coming on great guns.
The question you asked - yes it is the Catheads that go on there.
Here's photo's of the assembled bits (great fun that little assy) and in position.
Keep up the good work
 
 
 
Nick

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank. 

Cheers for that Daniel, well can remove ok and will add your version.

Well its Organised Chaos at the moment with one side of the stay ropes done.

For the blocks I am using Syren 3mm and 2mm for the lesser ropes, with Dafis eyelets already positioned.
The main top.



Running down to the channel.



Some of the chaos on the deck.



The shrouds on the top masts are run through the top and left loose at the moment.





The tuther side is next with the blocks made up, so should be faster.

Frank.