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palmerit

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About palmerit

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    Nashville, TN, USA

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  1. After sanding the hull, I decided to paint the bottom and leave the top unpainted and shellaced. Here I have also added the rub rails and I’ve worked on some pieces that will be added to the deck. (I used a clear shellac, which nicely darkens the pear just bit.)
  2. Great job! I was recently at a great display of model ships (all of them historic models) in Toronto and a large proportion of them did not include masts or rigging - saw the same at a display in Scotland last summer.
  3. While building my Sherbourne, I broke the stern end a couple times being clumsy. Was good experience on gluing broken pieces back together and being more careful.
  4. Great! Thanks for the pointer. I actually have all the volumes thankfully. Haven't been able to read them all.
  5. The one from here (thanks @JacquesCousteau) simulates internal stropping with wire around the block that is painted using wood filler to hide the wire and painting with Vallejo Old Wood (so you can't see that the wire is actually on the outside rather than the inside of the block). I suppose that's something I could try.
  6. For those - like me - who don't know the differences between blocks, here's another useful discussion (with drawings):
  7. Syren has internally-stropped blocks, but their smallest is 6mm. The blocks on this model are closer to 5mm. Though who knows how close these plastic bits are to what was actually used on this boat. They're the same plastic blocks that were included in the Midwest Crabbing Skiff I built. I wouldn't be surprised if these are just the generic blocks they include in lots of Midwest kits. My options are (1) use the plastic blocks that come with the kit that look terrible (and likely aren't really period appropriate either), (2) use nice Syren blocks that aren't period appropriate but look nice, and look like blocks, (3) use Syren internally-stropped blocks that are too big by a mm, (4) try to make my own, (5) check with Bluejacket. I can't get myself to do (1). And (4) is beyond me, at least for this model at this time. It's probably going to be (2) but I might order a set of the Syren internally-stropped blocks just to see how they look and even if I don't use them here I might use them in a future model and I might order some from Bluejacket after I take a look at what they have online.
  8. I was planning to place a Syren order for more blocks and rope and knew I wanted to replace both on this kit. I hadn’t yet opened the plastic ziplock with these pieces and found this for the blocks. Sad.
  9. As @ccoyle said, just glue in place and maybe let it cure overnight before adding the other bracing pieces going the other direction. There is so much engineered redundancy in Vanguard models that it should all be fine. You could add some additional bracing pieces (after finishing the skeleton) between the broken piece and the adjacent pieces if you want to be completely sure. The Vanguard pieces often need a bit of filing so that they don't fit so snuggly that they snap when you push them into position. Snug is what you want, but too snug can be too much. This is way better than some models that do the opposite: I saw a recent YouTube video of someone who focuses entirely on Occre models and its skeleton with bulkheads inserted shook like a set of castanets - if you turned it upside down, they'd all fall out.
  10. I don't know, there's so much variability in uses, needs, wood types, and even within the same wood type that I can't imagine it would be possible to do those kind of comparisons. And I imagine companies that produce these kinds of niche products operate on small margins. And can you imagine if they published some specs and someone complained or sued. I can tell you that it's not going to slice a 2x4 😉
  11. Very cool. (Is there any update on whether your supplier in Europe will be able to send parts so you can start selling the Syren rope walk again?)
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