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palmerit

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About palmerit

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    Nashville, TN, USA

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  1. Thinning would be a good option (and practice). Make sure you thin with the right product. Some paints can be thinned with water. Others really need to use the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. I suppose doing something with the engraving depends on the model manufacturer. I've never seen a need for that with a Vanguard model. The engravings on the wood are crisp.
  2. I pulled a screen shot from my first (Sherbourne) and second (Ranger) planking. I realized I didn't have a shot of my Ranger before I used some wood filler.
  3. I'm thinking next Vanguard model I build I would like to buy some extra pear wood strips for the planking. There were times I cut a strip too short or shaped them too thin or too fat or was unhappy with a few after adding them and would have liked to strip them off. The model kits come with extras, but not enough to set a high bar for what makes it on the model. Someone shared with me a photo recently of someone's build - I think of one of the Syren kits - with more trashed planking strips than ones that actually made it on the model. @chris watton Can we order more pear strip wood for planking from you? Or can you point to where you get yours from? Or is pear wood pear wood wherever you get it, so long as it is the right dimensions? I suppose I could just order from https://www.modelerssawmill.com and compare with the wood with the next Vanguard kit (and either combine them together or use the unused pear from that Vanguard kit for the next Vanguard kit if it uses the same second planking dimensions).
  4. Finished the second planking and did some standing. I still need to sand a bit more in a few spots. But being my third real strip planking (the first being my Vanguard Sherbourne, second being my Vanguard Ranger) I can see my slow improvement.
  5. Definitely look for HSS bits for a pin vise or dremel. Lots of the ones on Amazon aren’t and they snap easily (echoing what @wefalck said). Nothing more fun than having a piece of drill bit break off inside for model.
  6. Call the fraud dept for that card - they might have just blocked it. I bought two things at the Apple Store recently with my Apple CC and Apple detected the second Apple purchase erroneously as fraud.
  7. Elmers wood filler is less gritty than Minwax filler (the only two I’ve tried). Some swear by Bondo (for filling car metal) at least if sanding and painting. For small filling, especially if intending to leave wood (not painting), the best is a slurry of wood left from sanding (the same wood you’re filling) white glue, and water.
  8. @Knocklouder did you happen to check if the Smithsonian has plans you can get for the Harriet Lane? I know from Olha’s Gunship Philadelphia build that Smithsonian plans can really help to go beyond what’s in a kit. I haven’t yet splurged on buying the indexes of plans from the Smithsonian.
  9. Do you just keep a bowl of acetone and a rag nearby?
  10. I bought some Bob Smith before, but I don't think I got a medium one. Is this the right one? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/insta-cure-gap-filling-1oz/BSI00000107/product.php?kw=bob,smith I'm gathering from what I read above that the Super-BSI Gold+ medium gap filling is similar but odorless: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/super-gold-1oz-medium-gap-filling/BSI00000127/product.php?kw=bob,smith
  11. What kind (brand) of medium CA do you use for this? And what do you use as an applicator? Something like a pin? I've made the mistake of using a thin CA and that stuff really wicks up the rigging line.
  12. My older son had taken a "wood turning" course in high school - with only 4 students (all seniors) taught by the high school principal because they had only 4 lathes. I thought about getting one just to have something to play with - adding another wood hobby - that I could also use potentially with model ships (even if knowing this wasn't a need, but yet another toy to play with). Ultimately, I think it's pretty clear that a lathe is a want, not a need. I thought it was a need before discovering (i.e., reading about, seeing recommended) the electrical drill trick. I'd imagine even for scratch building, you might put a mill or nice scroll saw ahead of a lathe.
  13. I looked onto getting one hoping to use one for other things - putting a mast or yard in the end of an electric drill (covered to protect it) has worked well for now. A challenge is finding a lathe that can do small pieces and larger ones too - not that I’ve looked too hard yet (maybe when I retire).
  14. I have the new version from Model Shipways in my stash to build. It’ll be interesting to see how different this one is, apart from the scale.
  15. I’d probably start with a plastic kit. Or even a LEGO kit. Or build a wooden kit together with him. Or all three. The Lego Endurance is a great model. Don’t know if he is interested or good at legos. It is a ship. And a cool looking one. I built it. Maybe you and he could work on it together. When my sons were his age, my job was to find the pieces. Neither of my boys took to plastic kits like I did as a kid. But between the two of them, we probably spent well over $20K in Legos over the past 25 years. They still ask for them sometimes and they’re in their 20s. I once got a wooden plane model as a kid and I started it and never finished.
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