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palmerit

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    Nashville, TN, USA

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  1. I clicked on it and it says Access Denied
  2. Definitely way better than my first experience planking (also on the Sherbourne). Smart to do a smaller, simpler, and less expensive attempt on the Sherbourne before trying to tackle something large, complex, and expensive.
  3. Is there something at the upper end of the trimmed copper plates where it reaches the black? Rope?
  4. Can someone point me to the kind of knot used to lash a small boat to a deck? This is the photo from the Ranger instructions (and on @James H build log). Is a line looped through the eyebolts on both sides and then seized in a couple places?
  5. My understanding - which is incomplete - is that you can glue (wood glue) to wood that has been treated with shellac. I know you can't glue (wood glue) to wood that has been painted (and while you could presumably use CA glue on something that has been painted, my understanding is that you'd be gluing to the paint only). I don't know what the restrictions are on gluing to wood that has been treated with Danish oil or Tung oil.
  6. Yeah, that's what I've usually done. I guess I'm wondering what other options there might be that I can test. I saw another post looking at different shellac options, some of which included Bitumen of Judea (which is almost impossible to find online). That seems to be another way to darken shellac. Don't know if anyone has used it. hartem.com sells some with a hefty shipping cost.
  7. Their sander and their chopper both work great. I use them a lot. The sander makes things quicker and it’s nice to be able to pull it out whenever I need it (as opposed to an electric one that I’d need to go to the cellar to use). It also keeps edges square while sanding where sanding by hand would round the sides of a piece - especially useful when trying to sand char off the edges. I often have the adjustable square removed to give more room to sand larger pieces. Clamping it down to lets you sand quickly. But I often use it for small work without clamping.
  8. Not quite sure what piece is fitting to where. I’d get the hull shaped well with sanding and filler and then see about getting this piece to fit right - that could mean reshaping this piece. It’s often that pieces don’t fit quite right and you need to do various about of cutting, reshaping, using fillet, resanding, or even completely recreating a piece for another piece of wood. You’re lucky or very skilled if pieces fit as if they’re Lego pieces. I’ve usually had to bend, sand, reshape pieces.
  9. I’m working on the Model Shipways Philadelphia and following along with Olha’s build on YouTube. She noted that with soft basswood any stain will look “dirty” unless you do something to it. One option is using Minwax "Pre-stain Wood Conditioner" before adding the (Minwax) stain. I’m right that you would never first put shellac and then stain? That would not work (in the same way that you would not first put sanding sealer and then stain)? Olha seems to recommend putting on very thin CA glue (she says “cyanocravate”, which is maybe a European or Ukrainian nsme). Has anyone tried that? Are there other recommendations for doing a good stain of basswood (which most Model Shipways kits use)? Olha’s just using Shellac, but I’d like something darker). I guess another alternative would be a shellac that has color to it? Guessing that option would give some color to the basswood and not look “dirty”?
  10. Agreed. It’ll probably take me another couple of models before I completely “get it”. You know you’ve really gotten the right bending in both directions (as well as chamfering the edge) when the piece of plank fits into place as if you were putting together a plastic or LEGO model.
  11. I'm in the middle of assembling the Syren Servo-Matic, so I haven't had a chance to try it. I can say that the materials are great and the instructions are clear - you need to download the instructions online since they're (understandably) not included in the actual kit. There is a video on the Syren site for using it: https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/serving-machine.php I've seen the shipworkshop.com one recommended on here a few times. It's twice as much as the Syren one, but is metal and I think has a motor. They also have a combo serving / rope walking machine for nearly $500.
  12. Everything’s a small learning experience. When assembling the Syren Servo-Matic I needed to keep the main pieces square to the base when gluing them. I only have one medium and one small square (and a bunch in my cellar far too large). I was going to use LEGO pieces, which work well and are easily configurable. But then I thought I’d use my 1-2-3 blocks. They’re heavy and perfectly square. Well, I forgot that they had arrived with machine oil on them. While I had wiped them off, some remained in the holes and ended up staining the wood pretty deeply. 1-2-3 blocks have their uses (they make for nice weights and arms from a Quad Hands can magnetically attach to them) I’ll not let them sit on exposed wood again. Glad I discovered this on the Servo-Matic rather than on a model.
  13. I decided to get the Syren Servo-Matic Serving Machine. It needs to be built. First step is sanding all the cherry wood pieces (except for the gears).
  14. I cut out pieces by tracing out how much the part was too small compared to the correctly-sized piece on the other side (following what Olha did). I don’t think I would have thought to do it this way on my own.
  15. I’m planning to use Olha’s approach to fixing the fact that one of the pieces of the bottom was misprinted at the wrong scale, leaving gaps. I realized that even though I can fix this problem, the other parts on that sheet are also going to be the wrong scale. So I ordered a free replacement from Model Expo / Model Shipways. While their QA isn’t the best, they do have a reasonable replacement policy. https://modelexpo-online.com/parts
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