palmerit

I'm not an expert - one thing I'd recommend: That looks like green Frog tape (or similar). For masking at the edge of painting a line like that, Tamiya tape (which is yellow in its thicker versions, white in its thinner) is significantly better (I've seen people test alternatives on YouTube and the difference is pretty striking) - it comes in a bunch of sizes (from really tiny to wide). It's kind of expensive (certainly compared to Frog tape) but you do not use much, especially if you just use it to mask lines being painted. Also, after you put the tape down, "burnish" the line by running the back of your fingernail or the back end of a paint brush along the line. Another trick for painting a line: Imagine you are painting the top white and the bottom red and you already painted the top. After masking the line with (Tamiya) tape, paint white along the line and let it dry, so some white paint is where you'll be painting red and on the tape. Then paint the red. That one layer of white paint can really help keeping a fine line (along with using Tamiya tape and burnishing), limiting the bleed through under the tape. I learned all those tricks here and the most recent line I marked off and painted was nearly perfect compared to the first couple of times I tried just using tape alone. Depending on how OCD you are, you may still have some bleed through you'd need to touch up with a tiny paint brush, but doing these things can help keep the bulk of the line crisp.

I like this Curtis_Wooden_Shipyard video on tying ratlines. I also liked his tweezers for doing this and bought a couple. Bernina 90 degree tweezers: https://www.universityofsewing.com/shop/c/p/BERNINA-Tweezers-8-Series-x53811611.htm

I’ve never been able to get the finish with paint brushes that I can with an airbrush. On a 1:64 scale ship, any visible brush stroke is going to be out-of-scale. I’ve seen people do a great job with a brush. But even with high quality paint and brushes, when painting a model or painting trim in my house, I’ve always gotten brush strokes.

Some people are really good at applying paint with a bush without visible brushstrokes - don’t know if that’s from using very thinned paint with multiple layers or well-honed technique. I do use a brush for touch up (often a very small 000 point brush) but an airbrush works nicely. It’s not cheap to kit out certainly compared to a few brushes.

Thinning would be a good option (and practice). Make sure you thin with the right product. Some paints can be thinned with water. Others really need to use the thinner recommended by the manufacturer. I suppose doing something with the engraving depends on the model manufacturer. I've never seen a need for that with a Vanguard model. The engravings on the wood are crisp.

I pulled a screen shot from my first (Sherbourne) and second (Ranger) planking. I realized I didn't have a shot of my Ranger before I used some wood filler.

I'm thinking next Vanguard model I build I would like to buy some extra pear wood strips for the planking. There were times I cut a strip too short or shaped them too thin or too fat or was unhappy with a few after adding them and would have liked to strip them off. The model kits come with extras, but not enough to set a high bar for what makes it on the model. Someone shared with me a photo recently of someone's build - I think of one of the Syren kits - with more trashed planking strips than ones that actually made it on the model. @chris watton Can we order more pear strip wood for planking from you? Or can you point to where you get yours from? Or is pear wood pear wood wherever you get it, so long as it is the right dimensions? I suppose I could just order from https://www.modelerssawmill.com and compare with the wood with the next Vanguard kit (and either combine them together or use the unused pear from that Vanguard kit for the next Vanguard kit if it uses the same second planking dimensions).

Finished the second planking and did some standing. I still need to sand a bit more in a few spots. But being my third real strip planking (the first being my Vanguard Sherbourne, second being my Vanguard Ranger) I can see my slow improvement.

Definitely look for HSS bits for a pin vise or dremel. Lots of the ones on Amazon aren’t and they snap easily (echoing what @wefalck said). Nothing more fun than having a piece of drill bit break off inside for model.

Call the fraud dept for that card - they might have just blocked it. I bought two things at the Apple Store recently with my Apple CC and Apple detected the second Apple purchase erroneously as fraud.

Elmers wood filler is less gritty than Minwax filler (the only two I’ve tried). Some swear by Bondo (for filling car metal) at least if sanding and painting. For small filling, especially if intending to leave wood (not painting), the best is a slurry of wood left from sanding (the same wood you’re filling) white glue, and water.

@Knocklouder did you happen to check if the Smithsonian has plans you can get for the Harriet Lane? I know from Olha’s Gunship Philadelphia build that Smithsonian plans can really help to go beyond what’s in a kit. I haven’t yet splurged on buying the indexes of plans from the Smithsonian.

Do you just keep a bowl of acetone and a rag nearby?

I bought some Bob Smith before, but I don't think I got a medium one. Is this the right one? https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/insta-cure-gap-filling-1oz/BSI00000107/product.php?kw=bob,smith I'm gathering from what I read above that the Super-BSI Gold+ medium gap filling is similar but odorless: https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/super-gold-1oz-medium-gap-filling/BSI00000127/product.php?kw=bob,smith

What kind (brand) of medium CA do you use for this? And what do you use as an applicator? Something like a pin? I've made the mistake of using a thin CA and that stuff really wicks up the rigging line.