palmerit
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This is how I did mine (the middle option). From what I recall, there’s a fair amount of sanding (faring) to get the planks to lay flush. I don’t remember if there are later instruction steps that might help make it clearer.
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Lowell Grand Banks Dory by MikJ - Model Shipways - 1:24 - First Build
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TK1 reacted to a post in a topic:
Best way to finish wood?
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robert952 reacted to a post in a topic:
Best way to finish wood?
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Instymp reacted to a post in a topic:
San Francisco Bay Scow Schooner by palmerit - Midwest Products - 1:48
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Snug Harbor Johnny reacted to a post in a topic:
Best way to finish wood?
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Chris Watton and Vanguard Models news and updates Volume 2
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I'm no expert by any stretch. The quality of the wood certainly makes a big differences - basswood (from Model Shipways / Midwest) kits does not produce the same finish as higher quality pear (from Vanguard kits). In terms of planking and decking, it's the quality of the wood work that seems to determine the quality of the final product - if you're painting, it doesn't much matter how much wood filler you use, but that won't cut it if you're planning to keep the wood unpainted. I've recently discovered making my own shellac from flakes and alcohol, which ends up with a much better product than using pre-made canned shellac. On a current model I used shellac on the bare wood at the top of the hull, with the bottom painted, and after it was all done and dried I applied a couple layers of a Vallejo matte varnish on top. I'm sure others have more sophisticated approaches and answers.
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Paul White reacted to a post in a topic:
His Britannic Majesty's Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Paul White - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Erycina 1882 by Blue Ensign - Vanguard Models - 1:64 scale - Plymouth Trawler
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I think I broke pieces at the stern three times on my Sherbourne. Good experience in the kinds of repairs possible with a wooden model ship. Good reminder too that these little models are fragile.
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Paul White reacted to a post in a topic:
His Britannic Majesty's Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Paul White - Vanguard Models - 1:64
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Even though this is only the first planking, the better you get this one, the better the surface will be for the second planking. And careful work on the first planking is good practice for the second planking. Note that working with the lime wood (first planking) is a bit different from working with peat wood (second planking).
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Ryland Craze reacted to a post in a topic:
Norwegian Sailing Pram by DocTom - Model Shipways - 1:12
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I buy compressed air cans in 6 packs - take them outside and blow everything clean. Of course that only works with sanded hulls with no rigging or delicate pieces.
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thibaultron reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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aaronc reacted to a post in a topic:
Grand Banks Dory by palmerit - FINISHED - Midwest Products - 1:12
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aaronc reacted to a post in a topic:
Grand Banks Dory by palmerit - FINISHED - Midwest Products - 1:12
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Grecian by DB789 - FINISHED - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - American Privateer Schooner
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Interesting experiment. I'm going to follow along to see the progress. There's certainly no shame - and no one will shame you here - in setting the Indy aside should the experiment prove overly challenging (i.e., not fun). I know there's someone here who started on the Sphinx - just a step below the Indy - and at some point in their build they decided to take a step back and do the Vanguard Sherbourne, on the other end of the Vanguard skill continuum (still a challenging model, even with the excellent instructions and materials and design). For myself, I picked the Vanguard Sherbourne as my first model and when I got to the rigging stage felt a bit overwhelmed so I did the Model Shipways Shipwright models (Dory, Pram, Smack), which has no rigging on the Dory, some very simple rigging on the Pram, and only a bit more complicated on the Smack, and I felt much better prepared to take on the rigging on the Sherbourne, which is orders of magnitude simpler than the Indy; it also helped that Modelkit Stuff (Jason) had gone past me on his Sherbourne build on Youtube that I could learn from. Best of luck in the experiment!
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Ramble Intro
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne 1763 by Nightdive - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - First Build
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Syren Ship Model Company News, Updates and Info.....(part 2)
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Lady Isabella by palmerit - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Zulu
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
Lady Isabella by palmerit - Vanguard Models - 1:64 - Zulu
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After sanding the hull, I decided to paint the bottom and leave the top unpainted and shellaced. Here I have also added the rub rails and I’ve worked on some pieces that will be added to the deck. (I used a clear shellac, which nicely darkens the pear just bit.)
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Great job! I was recently at a great display of model ships (all of them historic models) in Toronto and a large proportion of them did not include masts or rigging - saw the same at a display in Scotland last summer.
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While building my Sherbourne, I broke the stern end a couple times being clumsy. Was good experience on gluing broken pieces back together and being more careful.
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Great! Thanks for the pointer. I actually have all the volumes thankfully. Haven't been able to read them all.
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The one from here (thanks @JacquesCousteau) simulates internal stropping with wire around the block that is painted using wood filler to hide the wire and painting with Vallejo Old Wood (so you can't see that the wire is actually on the outside rather than the inside of the block). I suppose that's something I could try.
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For those - like me - who don't know the differences between blocks, here's another useful discussion (with drawings):
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- San Francisco Bay Scow Schooner
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palmerit reacted to a post in a topic:
San Francisco Bay Scow Schooner by palmerit - Midwest Products - 1:48
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Syren has internally-stropped blocks, but their smallest is 6mm. The blocks on this model are closer to 5mm. Though who knows how close these plastic bits are to what was actually used on this boat. They're the same plastic blocks that were included in the Midwest Crabbing Skiff I built. I wouldn't be surprised if these are just the generic blocks they include in lots of Midwest kits. My options are (1) use the plastic blocks that come with the kit that look terrible (and likely aren't really period appropriate either), (2) use nice Syren blocks that aren't period appropriate but look nice, and look like blocks, (3) use Syren internally-stropped blocks that are too big by a mm, (4) try to make my own, (5) check with Bluejacket. I can't get myself to do (1). And (4) is beyond me, at least for this model at this time. It's probably going to be (2) but I might order a set of the Syren internally-stropped blocks just to see how they look and even if I don't use them here I might use them in a future model and I might order some from Bluejacket after I take a look at what they have online.
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Are there alternative sources?
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