Piet

Good evening all,    
 
Day started off as normal  till the wife told me there was a parcel waiting for me (A very large parcel)   I wasn't expecting anything  so I opened it and to my complete supprise  this was inside it   -  
 
🤩🤩😀😀
 
OC.

A bit more TD work in Paint  -  I have the frames sorted now and scaled to 1/100scale  same as the keel,  I will  try to get these printed off as they will give me an accurate plan to work off.
 
OC.

If I was sensible I would just convert the plan to the correct 1/100 scale  in windows paint, then save it as a 1/1 pic file  then  print it out on some 20inch paper,   but I have no ink  for my printer.
 
OC.

you invite.........I come    I have an idea for your length dilemma........if the kit your modifying has a three piece keel {  bow stem,  stern stem,  separated by a keel spine,  you can likely do it from the mid ship.   you will need the measurement of the bulkhead spacing to figure out the length,  and the number of the center bulkhead.   say the center bulkhead is #5........create a second one #5a.  factor in the spacing for the bulkhead......if the spacing is 48 mm.......you will be adding 48 mm to the overall length of the keel.   I did this when I built the hull for the trawler Syborn.......you can check out the log on page ten,  here in the scratch build forum.   I don't have a lot left to do on her........seeing her that far back....WOW,  I gotta get her back on the table and finish her  
 
you gonna have fun............it's almost necromantic! BWAAAhaaahAAAAA! 😈

Good evening all,    first step today was to convert some dimensions  to 1/100 scale  on one of the plans I have,   I will then overlay this drawing by hand onto my Peregrine  plans that are already at 1/100 scale,   this will give me a guide  to how much upscaling the keel will need.
 
OC.

Thank you mark,    sure is a challenge  - first thing I need to do is to  create accurate 1/100 scale keel section/s  and the  associated frames  that I will need to first find some accurate scale frame section plans, then make paper templates that I can use to change and upscale the peregrine frames,   then I will need to locate the correct positioning of the frame slots in the keel section/s  and  cut then out.
Lots of drawing work before I can even start building.
 
OC.

This is a rough idea what I am doing  -  converting the Pergrine into the Pearl uisng the Peregrine kit as a base and working from there.
 
OC.

Welcome aboard,
 
I have saved some of the internet diagrams of the Pearl, and also after doing some reading I understand the Pearl has a keel about 110ft long  where as my Pergrine has a keel about 80ft long.
 
What I intend to do is to convert the Pearl drawings to 1/100 scale  and draw them over the top of my Pergrine plans and build the frame from there, starting from the keel piece/s.
 
OC.

WOW,   not with my teeth  (lack of)
 
OC.

I'm in!
Looking forward to this very much.

Found this plan for Black Pearl I thought might be of help to you.
 
Staff Note: I removed the image from this post because it appeared to have been an official Disney plan, which is Disney's intellectual property and as such cannot be shared here without permission. You can, though, share a link to the original site source, if of course they, in turn, have legally shared the material. Carry on!
 

Most welcome mark,   bring the popcorn machine but keep the key to yourself  - you know how greedy the normal bunch can be😉
 
OC.

Pulling up a chair.   Be back in a bit with popcorn.

oh this should be great fun!  looking forward to it.

Good day all,   I thought I would start this log in preperation for finishing my HMS Warspite build,    I have wanted to build a version of the Black Pearl for a while now,  but there is no Honest  company making a wood kit  and only the one decent scale plastic kit,   so  I  came up with the crazy idea of mashing my Peregrine kit into the Pearl.
 
Most inportant  Im building this for the wife as a Special request.
 
This will take some doing as the keel pieces and ribs in the peregrine kit will all need modifying  with extra pieces adding to them (I am under no illusion this will be a real trial of building skills  and my first attempt at a real scratch built ship.
I will have to firstly lengthen the keel section/s  as the Pearl was about 30 feet longer than the Pergrine  - so some additions to be added.
 
So pull up a chair in readyness for this madness  - it wont be dull.
 
 
OC.

Hello all y'all swabbies and swabbettes,
 
The O19 has been patiently waiting for some tender loving care but there is really not much more to do on her, other then nick-nacks.  I think I'll be finalizing the build soon and go on with the VOC ship.
 
Reworking the side trim on the display board will be done whenever I have the time for it and have the proper stain.  There is no big rush with it.
 
Coming week I'll be buying a few steel brackets to bolt to the wall in my studio / office and man cave so I can place the O19 on it - finally.
 
I'm waiting for some decent weather to take the pictures for the Gallery and a few glossies to take with me to Holland.
 
In the meantime the shipment of Heineken beer has arrived for the O19 and is being stowed away in the forward compartment of the con.  It appears that my father has ordered the cases for the crew.  You see, he was also the quarter master on the boat as well as chef d'equipage.
 
That reminds me of the story he told us about testing a potential purchase of "unbreakable" glassware.  One day a salesman came to the boat trying to sell "unbreakable' glasses.  Now, Schipper van Warmerdam being a cautious quarter master asked if he could test a glass.  The salesman agreed and so my father climbed up to the bridge with a glass.  He proceeded to hold the glass over the deck and ley it go.  Well, the glass hit the deck and promptly broke into a gezillion pieces.  There were no further words uttered between my father and the salesman who packed up his stuff and left the boat.
Now you would think that with all those wooden slats on the deck the glass would fare better but alas, the glass must have hit one of the steel tracks for the torpedo loading dolly, pity
 
Okay, enough of my banter and let yuns see the Heineken shipment.
 

 

 
Cheers, 
 
 

Hello fellow shipwrights,
 
Yesterday, on my way back from my birthday party held by our financial advisor, I stopped by at "Hobby Lobby" in St. Augustine and bought some needed "stuff."  I got a few blocks of balsa and 300 lbs cold pressed watercolor paper.  It's nice and heavy, close to 0.4 mm thick.  Just what the doctor ordered for the simulated steel hull plates.  I'm a happy camper.
 
Today I stopped by the local Home Depot and got wood filler and epoxy resin with fiberglass cloth.  I found that I really need to reinforce the planking on the inside to give it some more stiffness.  Even with the planned styrofoam it is still too spongy to my liking but that's the breaks in this business.  Trying to safe weight by skimping on bulkheads and now I have the extra work to do. 
But hey, I'm not going anywhere and this way I am assured of a good solid hull.
 
This afternoon I did some fine tuning on a few bulkheads that were not quite right by adding some veneer strips.  Even the long steel straight edge didn't catch it.  But that's okay, you can't win 'm all.
 
I made a closeup pic of the upper starboard planking over the main ballast tanks.  No remember that these still the raw planks without sanding.  The holes are for the pushpins to prevent the planks from splitting.  This just the base planking, they will be covered by the heavy paper and polymer adhesive.
 

Closeup of center top starboard planking over the main ballast tank/mine tube area.  The holes are for the pushpin "clamps."  These are 1/4 inch wide by 1.5 mm thick poplar planks and you can see there is quite a span between bulkheads.  2 mm planks may have given me the desired stiffness but then I'll be outside my scale.
 
Cheers,

Hello all y'all,
 
Thans Pat and John for checking up on me, appreciate your interest and encouraging words. 
 
I have been busy with some needed domestic chores around the house, pruning trees and shrubs, mowing the lawn, cleaning the rain gutters etc, etc.  However, I have been able to do some work on the O 19.  After the spacer blocks have been installed at WL 7 I could lift the boat out of the build dock.  She is still pretty light and nice and stiff.
Unfortunately the admiral is not around to take a snapshot with me holding it, she drove up north to Pittsburgh, PA to visit our youngest daughter and the grandson.  They are going to register him into college at Slippery rock, PA.  Sorry I couldn't go this time but I don't mind to bachelor it.
 
I have fared most of the bulkheads, mainly above WL 7. For the front and read of the boat I will need to add balsa blocs because there are some tricky shapes that need something more substantial then foam.
 
I also started to install the base planking as the base for the paper hull plates.  They are 1 X 5 mm planks I ripped from 1/4 poplar boards, works like a charm.  Works better then basswood.  This gives the Styrofoam a place to settle and the support for the wood planking. It'll be trying things out as I go along.
 
I may not plank all of the top-center of the pressure hull except from the conning tower to part of the forward part of the hull to accommodate the side-launge torpedo tubes.
 

Here is a 3/4 view from the starboard stern.  The planking is over the ballast tanks and amidship are the ten mine tubes.  I may make one to show with an operable lid, that would look really nice.  I have also started to lay a few planks from the keel going up.  You can see the pushpins to clamp the planks while the glue is curing.
 

This is a shot from the stern.
 
Cheers,

Hello folks,
 
Just a little update.  Most of the bulkheads are now glued to the keel and checked again for level and square.  I also made a few more, especially in the stern but are not glued on yet.
 
Next I'll glue spacer blocks between the bulkheads at the outboard sides to make the hull more rigid so I can take it off the build board for some fine tuning and fairing of the bulkheads.
 

Final check for level. Seems kinda redundant because I must have checked this many times but it makes for a nice picture.
 

Overall view of the hull.
 
Cheers, 

Dry fit of the bulkheads.
 
The majority of the bulkheads are now cut out and shaped on the disc sander.  One of my most indispensible tools in my shop, at least in my humble opinion.
 
I have also cut and shaped the stern and bow center keel pieces.  They still need to be joined to the main center keel frame and I’ll be working on a method of how to do that.
 
Next step is to cut small grooves in the bulkhead edges where WL 7 is because I need to remove the paper templates.  It’s not a good idea to leave the paper on because I want to seal the wood on the inside of the hull and also for possible balsa and foam filling.
 
I again checked the level of all bulkheads at the WL 7 line and they are right on the money.  Makes me a happy camper.
 
I also checked the center top of all the bulkheads for level; they too are right on the money.
 
After I have removed the paper templates from the bulkheads I can then glue them to the center keel frame.  Then I may need to add a few more bulkheads, especially at the stern and bow.  I'll also add stabilizing blocks between the bulkheads to make sure they are parallel.  I’ll have to check where specifically I need an extra bulkhead with a long thin strip of wood to see where it may not have enough support.
It’ll be a doing, trying and fitting as I go along just as I have to do with the VOC ship. 
 

90% of the bulkheads are now cut and shaped, ready for a dry fit to the center keel frame. 
 

Most all the bulkheads are now loosely placed on the center keel frame looking forward. The most aft part of the center keel needs to be shaved thin starting half way between the bulkhead 16 and the stern end to 1/8 inch.  You can also see the can of foam next to the bottle of carpenter's glue, which is btw equal to TiteBond in holding power
 

This is looking aft.  The few tall pieces up front need some more work, that's the bow torpedo tube area. Here you can also see the lateral strips I glued to the tops of the bulkheads.  That and the vertical blocks prevents things from warping. This has been sitting in the garage like this for a few days and is holding its shape.
 

 
Looking straight down the center towards the front.  The rounded part on the top of the bulkheads are actually the top portions of the round pressure hull.  The parts outside this circle are for the ballast tanks and the mine storage tubes.
 
Cheers,

Good luck Marcus with your Dremel exercise, sure hope it works for you.
Potdekselen, and "they" say English is a strange language - well perhaps American English is.  Clapboard and lapstrake I understand, I can even pronounce clapboard with a Down-east accent   What does a lid on a pot have to do clapboarding - really strange now I am totally cornfused, thanks Jan for messing with my poor old brain   Okay, I'll have to add that word in Gwen's Dutch-English dictionary, learn something every day.
 
Cheers,

Thanks Marcus for the links, I have downloaded them and will study the mills at my pleasure when I have the time.
Your "klinker" build wall panels came out really nice. Leave it up to Carl to come up with an astute idea, very clever.   Would that be lapstrake in English by chance? The longer I don't speak or read Dutch the more I have trouble remembering words   Sad, but true.
 
Cheers,
 
 

A lot of thought you are putting into this project Marcus and sifting through all the helpful hints. So far your plan makes a lot of sense.  I'm sure that your windmill will come very close to the real thing, in miniature.  I hope I can do as well with my planned wipwatermolen.
 
Cheers,

Have a safe and uneventful flight and keep your seat belt tightened around your hips at all times.  Enjoy your visit with your mother.  90, wow, a ripe old age.
 
Cheers,

That cap is looking pretty good Marcus.
 
Cheers,