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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
The going is slow making the propeller blades. I can't use a grinder because it clogs up and they get hot is a second holding with my fingers. No, can't use clamps either, can't see the scribe marks and loose sight of the shape. They are egg shaped and equal on each side of the centerline, the slightest deviation shows up like a sore thumb. But that's okay, I have the time. Nobody is standing behind me with a whip and I get paid by the hour
Okay, I re-routed the dingy boom cables first thing this morning. Thanks again Amateur Jan, good catch!!
I managed 2 more blades for one of the propellers but they need more work. I purposely made them larger then called for. I'd rather file away metal then having to start over when they turn out too small. You can take away but can't add on metal
I also added ⅛ of an inch of wood to the hub to bring the blade field a little more aft. That way I can have slightly longer blades and they won't interfere with the hull and outer dive plane supports. Even so I had to grind away some material on the latter ones.
Hopefully I'll have one prop finished by the end of tomorrow.
Well, here are a few pics for yuns to view and don't be shy with your constructive criticism
This is for Amateur Jan. It shows the corrected rigging of the dingy boom. Now, the load cable is still not running the same as on the drawing because I did not put a pulley below deck in the dingy compartment as it's supposed to be. I had to run it through a hole in the deck on the starboard side of the aft con. I could have put a 3 mm pulley down below but then I would have a problem demonstrating the works because the string would pull with a too large an angle. Remember that this was also an afterthought. If I had planned this from the get go I would have certainly done so.
This shows the four semi finished propeller blades loosely stuck in the hub.
Here is another shot taken from the front and slightly above. Here we can see just a hint of the profile. The metal was not thick enough to machine the profile in the blades. That would have been a devil of a task to do by hand. For this model's purpose I think this should suffice.
Here is another view but more from straight above.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Well, let's see - - - what did I do today, oh yeah, drove to the eye doctor for my annual check but it was a no show and had to reschedule it for after the 4th of july. Gwen and I will be in Coraopolis, PA visiting our daughter and grandson for two weeks - - - yippeeee. We are leaving next week Tuesday. Gwen suggested that I bring my big-screen iMac with me then I'll have all the pictures in my archive to show Troy, our grandson. He's totally impressed with his great grandfather and what he's done.
I had plenty of time before lunch and started with the propellers. I first made a card dummy prop blade to use as a template. Transferred the outline to my 0.6 mm copper plate with a steel scribe. Then, using my jeweler's coping saw with a metal cutting blade, cut them out. Yep, it's a slow process but using tinsnips would curl the metal too much and I want the curl to be my way, not what the tinsnips give me.
After I had the rough pieces in my hand then I used the tinsnips to cut away the parts outside the scribed lines. Then I used a file to file it to the scribed line and cut a small "pins" into the bottom of the blade to assist it in cementing the blades to the hub.
I then bend the curved profile in the blades by hand and eyeball. Remco send me a few drawings of the blades and their profile but by using thin copper I cannot actually carve blades to match those on the real boat. However, I think they are shaping up quite nice. I did some extra filing to at least give it some of the profile.
I carved four small diagonal grooves in the hub to receive the blades and drilled the holes for the "pins." The hubs are oak and quite hard so I used a small broken drill bit as a router in my Proxxon hand tool which worked great. I try-fitted two blades and it seems to look okay.
So far I only made two blades for one propeller, six more to go.
The filing left quite a few marks on the copper so I'll have to do some serious dressing and polishing but that's all part of the process and fun.
I still need to reduce the length of the blades so there is still a lot of filing yet to do before they fit.
Here are a few pics I put for my archive. Enjoy.
Here is one of the hubs with two blades. They are already pre-bend into their pitch, there is still some bending and twisting to be done before I'm happy. This gives you an idea of what I am talking about above. I still need to drill the pin holes though.
Here I have propped up the hub on a piece of copper tubing and pressed one of the blades in a groove.
Cheers.
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
What I should have added yesterday is one more reason for me having the gantry boom hanging kinda low is that I need to run antenna wires over the top of the gantry. Normally, when loading a torpedo the boom is pulled up to a higher angle, of course, to get a good loading angle on the torpedo. I don't know yet if I'll change things later on to show the torp actually being in the process of sliding into the loading tube below deck. That would really be the cat's meow but then I would also need a bunch of characters on deck handling the operation and that's not in the plans - - - so far But one never knows - - - - - -
Today has been very slow in the dockyard. I have been mulling things over to what project / model I should tackle next. I have been procrastinating the propellers for many months now and think it's time to cut the mustard - grab the bull by the horns - and make the props. I'm really a little apprehensive tackling this difficult project. But then again, I have enough copper sheet so I can botch-up a lot of blades.
As I was thinking and thinking I made a proto shell for the deck gun. I wanted to see what was involved making a bunch to fight off those large and heavy guns from Sjors and Mobbsy and perhaps a few others who want to do battle
I know, they need to be a little smaller and the grenade more pointy but the idea is there. At least I don't have to make powder bags, water mops, stampers and steel balls
I have not filled the shell with black powder (yet) so it's still a dummy ((like me ))
One thing I see is that I really should use brass for the shell casing, copper won't do. But it's just a prototype.
Thanks everyone for visiting and your likes, it's really very encouraging.
Here is the prototype deck gun shell standing on the deck next to the loading breech. I still need to add the outlines of that on the gun.
This is a plastic boat from my Thermopile clipper kit to hang it temporarily on it's boom. I was tired of seeing a socket wrench hanging off the hook.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Thanks everyone for visiting, your comments and likes
@ Remco: Quote - "Is the little diagonal support arm installed on the wrong side? Now the load pulls on the arm instead of compressing it, putting a lot of tension on the bolts keeping it in place."
Yes, it's in tension. It's welded to the "skinny" post and bolted to the deck structure below the deck surface. Bolts in sheer are very strong and should pose no problems. From an engineering point of view I'd rather have it in sheer anyhow. This is also in accordance with the drawings. Thus your suggestion is not what I was asking. No price for you.
@ Jan: Quote - "The lower 'winch' is rewired in the last pic, compared to previous ones (the cable does not return to the point it started from) .
I still don' t quite understand how the systemn works: the upper 'wire has two fixed endpoints, and two fixed points were it connects to that thing in the middle.
IN thepic the line is straight, so the boom can't go any lower than now depicted. However, the amount of cable that can 'remocved, by tensioning the lower pulley is very limited, so the upward movement of the boom is also very, very limited. When upward and downward movembet are som limited, what' the use of this constructioj over a rigid boom?
Hmmm, rewired or wound differently, could be. That would not alter the operation of the "come-along" ratcheting winch though. Looking at the pics again, the feed cable coming from the "come-along" runs through the small pulley that's Bolted to the lower attach point of that triangular piece and then goes back to the aft side of the "come-along" , which is hooked into that swivel bracket on the top of the post. This allows the boom to move up or down through the action of the "come-along." The cable or chain that runs from the top attach point of the triangular thingy is hooked to the top of the swivel plate that's attached to the top of the post. It's supposed to be a safety cable or most likely a chain. The cable that runs from the triangular gizmo through the large pulley is attached to the top of the post. As we crank the "come-along" or ratcheting crank, one way or the other it allows the boom to move up or down BUT we must first disconnect that "safety" cable or chain. I used a cord for that but it should be a chain so its length can be changed by linking the links at their appropriate position. Y'all know how that can be done with chains, right?
Yes, it was very difficult modeling all this to its proper scale and it's indeed impossible to make the movements exactly the same as the original. However, it does not require much up and down movement of the boom. My model of the ratcheting winch is way over scale and that throws everything off.
Once the torpedoes were loaded they just unhooked everything and stowed the parts inside the con. The boom itself was secured to a bracket on the deck.
The dingy boom I had to rerun the cables because I routed them in the wrong holes in the deck. I didn't retake the pics. Eagle eye John hit that one on the nose but that was not what I was referring to. So, no price for Jan either
@ Pete48: Thank you but you didn't take a shot at finding my error
@ Jud: Thank you very much.
Okay, what I was looking at after the gantry was all completed and tried to load a torpedo I found that the gantry was too far away from the loading tube below deck. I placed the gentry at a position as indicated on the drawings but forgot that I had to extend the access hatches further aft then the drawings show. I installed the loading tube at a to slight of an angle. Therefor my error.
So this afternoon I managed to pry the gantry gently loose from the deck without doing any damage
I moved it to where the drawings tell me to put it and now I can load torpedoes. As Jan pointed out there is very little movement possible the way my model shows but, as I explained, my "come-along" ratcheting winch is way over scale making my arrangement really not workable. That's the problem with trying to make things workable at this scale. If I had made this ratcheting winch to scale it would have to be a static gizmo of perhaps only 2 mm but then the entire gantry assembly would be static with no movement at all. So, this is the best I could do under the circumstances.
This shows the forward gantry in it's now location. I'll have to readjust the winch a little to tighten everything up. I might try making a sling for the torpedo so I hang it on the boom in a loading position. There may have to be some additional rework to the rigging but that'll have to wait till later.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Thank, you, thank you, thank you for your likes and visiting my dockyard. All yuns are in my thoughts.
Hoi Remco and thank you for that big compliment, I'm overwhelmed and I just wish that all you folks could actually visit and see the real McCoy. Most of the times photos can make errors stand glaringly out and at other times they can make a model look pretty good but I'm thrilled with the way she's taking shape. Even Gwen, with her VERY critical eye, can't find much to critique about, other then some paint touch-ups,she just ask questions on what all those gizmos are and do.
The dockyard was closed Friday and Saturday. Yesterday I did a lot of necessary research, some on health and some on other issues. However, I opened the dockyard this morning and felt all your presence so I had to be extra careful in doing things correctly
I actually attempted to install all the forward gantry parts and complete it. The attempt was successful, even after having to mow the front yard! And write our daughter a happy daughter's day letter.
After everything was completed and tested and admired my handywork, I noticed a grave error!! I won't tell yuns what it is but like to open it as a quiz. The first one who can point it out winds a BIG prize
Here are a few pics I took for my archive and add them to this post for your viewing pleasure.
This shows most of the parts in a state of assembly to the port-side forward gantry post. The boom elevation "come-along" has a "cable" wound around its drum and that long "cable" end dangling down is the fixed cable for the "come-along" and is fastened to the fwd part where the hook is. The small clothe pin is holding one of the thimbles that is actually in process of being whipped. It'll hook into the swivel plate aft and on up on the gantry post. The "come-along" is also hooked to that swivel plate. The "cable" thats being held by the large clothe pin will be rapped around another thimble with a hook that'll be hooked to that canted part right above the swivel plate brackets. The pics below will show the completed gantry.
Here we see the upper "cable" thimble being whipped.
A side view of the completed gantry installation. There is a little slack in the come-along but that can be taken out by winding the cable a little bit more on the drum.
Okay, I might as well post the question here, can anyone tell what's wrong with this installation? The torpedo is just stuck into the loading tube below deck and may guid you into finding the problem.
I had to hang some weight on the boom tackle to keep everything taught.
The black line coming out of the deck torpedo opening is to lower and raise torpedoes. In real life this cable goes to an electrically driven drum.
Another shot looking aft.
Looking forward.
Looking straight aft. Don't look at the mess on the build board, just too lazy to keep cleaning things up and still needing some of the stuff. Hey Remco, busier yet!!
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Hello again and today was rather productive and enjoyable. It's nice when things work and fall into place without any snags.
Started out in the morning finalizing the parts for the dingy loading boom. I had to install the few 3 mm pulleys in their brackets and secure the pins. Then I made the cable shackles a bit smaller yet to see if the cables still go around them and it worked.
I whipped two of the cables that I put around the shackles and secured them with nail polish. So I thought why not assemble the whole blooming thing! It only took about half an hour for the boom and rigging was completed
Then I heard some thunder and figured to quickly mow the backyard before the rain. Then I had some lunch, read the mail and ventured back into the garage aka the dockyard. I took a few pics of the assembled loading boom and discovered I had reversed the boom cable and the loading cable, so I quickly re routed them, no prob, done in a few minutes.
With the success in making the shackles smaller I now also made the ones for the forward torpedo loading boom smaller and what a difference that makes. I "quickly" whipped the cables around them and prepped a few more parts for the forward boom. By that time the grass was dry enough to finish mowing the southside of the backyard. I don't like to mow when it's whet, I'm using an electric mower and one never knows - - -
By that time it was time to call it quits and downloaded the pics and put them in my O19 file.
Okay, here are a few pics of todays work.
This shows the whipping of one of the shackles.
Here are all the parts laid out for the dingy loading boom on top of the drawing.
Here is a side view of the dingy loading boom, sorry about the camera movement.
A shot from the rear.
Looking straight forward through the torpedo loading gantry at the dingy boom. It's getting busy.
A close-up of the dingy loading boom. I had to hang some weight on the loading hook to keep the cables taught.
A look kinda from above. I had to stand on a small ladder here.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Today I managed completing the rigging of the aft torpedo loading gantry. I'm not really happy with it, primarily about the cable thimbles. They are way too large for my scale and look bulky. I have to do some thinking on how else I can "fake" the thimble issue before I tackle the forward gantry.
We are getting into a realm where the real full size thimbles are not much more then perhaps 2 inches long or 1 mm. There is no way in the world I can make them that small and make 'm look realistic.
For now though I'll just leave things as they are and when I have figured it out for the forward gantry I'll redo the aft one.
Overall it didn't come out too bad and everything works as well, even the boom elevation "come-along" gizmo, which is a plus.
I also painted both mines black as well as the torpedo (you see John, I do listen and take advice ). They don't look to bad either. Menacing even
Here are a few pics of today's accomplishments.
This shows the gantry sideways pretending to load a mine to the deck. I needed some weight on the boom to keep things from jumping off - - - the "cable" is rather stiff and needs a little tension. I also temporarily, stuck the torpedo into the loading tube to show the prop and black paint. This is never done in real life, just in case somebody makes a smart aleck remark I just wanted to how the finished mines and torpedo painted in black. Loading torpedoes is a rather delicate operation that requires quite a few men.
The black cord at the exhaust pipe is to haul the torpedoes up or lower them. In reality this cable is connected to an electric winch below decks.
Here is another shot looking forward,
A side view shot with a RG 58 coaxial cable spice thingy for weight. I still have "stuff" from my days when I owned and operated an aircraft repair facility in New jersey, about two lifetimes ago, or so it seems. Hmmm, we could call it a secret weapon
So sorry, I moved taking this shot looking forward with the "secret weapon" hanging on the boom.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Besides messing around with the torpedo I also started with the rigging of the aft gantry. That proved to be challenge and had to rework a few parts just a little. Enough though that in the process I jammed a small drill bit under the nail of my left index finger. AUCH Hmmmm, no blood though, just a little, but it stings. Domkop Yeah, yeah, Remco, no pin vice, just my little old fingers but some of these parts can't go into a pin vice though. Okay, I'll shop for one, honest
I did manage to finish one propeller for the prototype torpedo and installed it. The propeller actually turns but a little stiff because I think the shaft has a slight bend in it. Gwen said I should but some grease or oil on it. Yeah right, I don't think so just be more careful and not to bend that shaft piece.
Then I put some primer on the torpedo and am waiting to buy black paint.
Okay, now that the torpedo size is established, thanks to Freek, I'll need to buy a few more hardwood dowels at the DIY store. I think I'll make about six of them, that way I'll have a few to place on te display board with the extra mine and most likely a spare anchor and a few cases of good ole Heineken.
In order to rig the loading boom I managed to wind some "cable" on the boom elevation "come-along." The last picture below shows it after I had wound enough cord on it and put a small clothe pin on it to keep it from unwinding. The center picture shows the assembly partly rigged. Sorry, but I didn't make the ratcheting parts, too small for me Well, we'll just have to use our imagination and assume it's there
That's it for now. A few pics for my archive and your viewing pleasure.
Here I have laid out all the parts that make up the propeller assembly. The top propeller is completed. I started out with a round piece of brass shim of 0.3 mm. Drilled a 1 mm hole in the center and drew out the four quadrant lines. Next I cut 2 ea 1 mm long pieces of 1 mm brass tubing, one is for the propeller hub and the other is to keep the assembly from coming out. A piece of brass rod acts as the shaft and is also soldered into the hub, then through a longer piece of 1 mm brass tube and finally the last small piece of tube is soldered to the end of the shaft, which locks everything up.
The rough propeller is next shaped by using a razor blade and a small hammer to cut through the four marked lines as close to the hub as possible. Then using a pair of scissors I carefully snipped away the unwanted brass shim and finalized the shape with a diamond file and then twisted the blades to a guessed at pitch.
I drilled a 1 mm hole in the end of the torpedo deep enough to accommodate the shaft assemble and inserted the shaft assembly only about ⅓ of the way and then put a dab of CA gel cement on it and pressed everything home, making sure that the propeller rotates as the CA cement cures.
Here is the fully assembled torpedo in a coat of primer waiting for the final black paint. I masked the propeller to keep it in brass. You'll also see the "come-along" gizmo with the other hardware for that part part of the rigging. The two small brass teardrop shaped thingies are thimbles that'll be part of the rigging cables and fit inside the triangular piece.
This is the famous boom elevating "come-along" device. I just finished winding some cord on it just like the real thing. I hope I can demonstrate it later on to show how everything works. keep fingers crossed
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from SawdustDave in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
After I mowed the front yard and trimmed a few bushes and shrubs, it was time for lunch, check the mail and look at the news on the computer. I'm also doing more research on cancer and specifically bladder cancer. But my model keeps calling me
After lunch I ventured into the garage, aka shipyard, and started with fashioning the center fixed part of the torpedo door hinges. That turned out to be a very difficult and trying job. Too many already soldered parts that needed heat-sinks but eventually I managed to solder the 1.6 mm copper tube to a separate copper flange to the front of the torp tubes.
Next I'm in the process of making the two side brackets for the outer fixed hinge tubes. They'll be soldered to the upper outsides of the tubes and then the small pieces of copper tube will be soldered to them and hoping that everything lines up. I'll shove a piece of stainless steel wire through them all to keep them lined up. A light coat of grease on it will prevent any possibility of it sticking, one never knows.
Sorry, no pics. I got so involved with this thing that I plum forgot. Next time better because they are for my own archive for remembrance.
Thanks everyone for your visiting and your likes.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Hello everybody and my thanks to all who visited and clicked on like, it's much appreciated.
Was not able to accomplish much today. This thing, the deck torpedo launcher, is slow going, because of the painstaking detail work.
I soldered the tube section flanges and cleaned the little excess solder off with a small file. So far I'm happy with them.
Next I had to fashion flanges for the aft and the front of the tubes. I used some round brass rod of 0.3 mm instead of the square rod. After I dressed them down they looked square as well. I'm happy with them as well. I didn't need a thick flange because the aft end is only for solderen the end plates to it. The front flange is for a seal of the tube doors.
Talking about tube doors, I made two and used my oak mandrill to press them into a dome shape. This is the same tool I used for the crew hatches and torpedo loading tubes, way back when.
Another reason why I didn't accomplish as much as I wanted to is that I was pondering on how to make the hinges for the tube doors. Just sitting there and looking at the launcher and thinking. I think that I have to make a few brackets from brass sheet stock for the stationary hinge tubes and solder them to the front ends of the tubes. I would like to finish the front end first before tackling the aft end.
Also still pondering the deck side openings. May have to buy another large sheet of 0.5 mm plywood or make my own plywood. I don't need much if it's only for the doors. That in itself doesn't bother me, I have made plywood before and it won't set me back much and besides, it's kinda fun.
Okay, I made a few pics for my own archive and like to show yuns what has been accomplished today. It first look there doesn't seem any difference with the previous post but believe me there are about 5 hours of work involved.
This shows all the flanges soldered to the tubes with the two doors in front of the launcher assemblyThe small piece of tubing and the wooden dowel is what I used to bend the brass rods around for the flanges.
This shows the launcher assembly with the domed doors laid loosely on top of the tubes.
This shows the launcher assembly with the aft end closed off.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Didn't spend much time in the shipyard today Had to do some domestic chores, mow the back yard and trimmed a few shrubs. Then some needed correspondence but was able to spend a few hours in the shipyard
I'm still pondering the rework of the deck structure sides though but I started by removing the doors and cut down the lower side of the opening on the starboard side and removed some wood on the forward and aft ends. Like I mentioned in a previous post this'll have to be an as I go project, slow and carefully trying not having to remove a large portion of the side plates.
Making the hinges for the doors will also be a REAL challenge now that I have very little access to the inside with the top deck closed. All yuns please keep your fingers crossed for me.
I found that I couldn't install the pivot pin so had to drill a 1.7 mm hole through the top deck where the inboard rails meet to allow me to insert the pivot pin. Well, I lucked out - again - in that the hole lined up perfectly with the hole in the hull
Next I started making the tube flanges. The launch tubes are made up of four separate pieces that are bolted together, which is a rather obvious part of the launcher and can't be missed.
I had been thinking for days how to make these flanges but then I remembered I have some 0.4 mm brass square rods. So, I bend them around a scrap piece of 10 mm tubing and finalized them on a wooden dowel to make them fit snug on the launcher tubes. Lucked out again and am ready to tack solder them to the tubes. This I'll do tomorrow afternoon after I have done some shopping for hardware and a set of earphones and a microphone. I may have a problem with my iMac build in mic and can't talk with our kids via Skype. So I'll try an external mic and see if that works.
After these flanges are soldered on I may have to dress them a little as well as cleaning up some of the solder. I need to make two more flanges at one of the ends for the tube doors, I ran out of time and besides my eyes were getting tired. He, they are also 80 years old, so what can you expect
I took only two pics for my archive and sorry to say, I didn't make a running series on how I made these flanges, I figured y'all know how to do that. Perhaps tomorrow, when I make the next two, if I don't forget.
Okay, here are the pics and don't forget that they are still not soldered on yet but just loosely stuck on for the pics.
This shows all 8 flanges loosely placed on the tubes at their desired locations.
This is another view of the flanges stuck on the tubes. Here you can also see part of the square brass rod at the top of the picture.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
Hello Kevin and a WOW to the nth power! Magnificent!
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from mtaylor in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
After I mowed the front yard and trimmed a few bushes and shrubs, it was time for lunch, check the mail and look at the news on the computer. I'm also doing more research on cancer and specifically bladder cancer. But my model keeps calling me
After lunch I ventured into the garage, aka shipyard, and started with fashioning the center fixed part of the torpedo door hinges. That turned out to be a very difficult and trying job. Too many already soldered parts that needed heat-sinks but eventually I managed to solder the 1.6 mm copper tube to a separate copper flange to the front of the torp tubes.
Next I'm in the process of making the two side brackets for the outer fixed hinge tubes. They'll be soldered to the upper outsides of the tubes and then the small pieces of copper tube will be soldered to them and hoping that everything lines up. I'll shove a piece of stainless steel wire through them all to keep them lined up. A light coat of grease on it will prevent any possibility of it sticking, one never knows.
Sorry, no pics. I got so involved with this thing that I plum forgot. Next time better because they are for my own archive for remembrance.
Thanks everyone for your visiting and your likes.
Cheers,
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Piet got a reaction from pete48 in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
After I mowed the front yard and trimmed a few bushes and shrubs, it was time for lunch, check the mail and look at the news on the computer. I'm also doing more research on cancer and specifically bladder cancer. But my model keeps calling me
After lunch I ventured into the garage, aka shipyard, and started with fashioning the center fixed part of the torpedo door hinges. That turned out to be a very difficult and trying job. Too many already soldered parts that needed heat-sinks but eventually I managed to solder the 1.6 mm copper tube to a separate copper flange to the front of the torp tubes.
Next I'm in the process of making the two side brackets for the outer fixed hinge tubes. They'll be soldered to the upper outsides of the tubes and then the small pieces of copper tube will be soldered to them and hoping that everything lines up. I'll shove a piece of stainless steel wire through them all to keep them lined up. A light coat of grease on it will prevent any possibility of it sticking, one never knows.
Sorry, no pics. I got so involved with this thing that I plum forgot. Next time better because they are for my own archive for remembrance.
Thanks everyone for your visiting and your likes.
Cheers,
-
Piet reacted to hlipplaa in Halve Maen ~1608 by hlipplaa - 1/30 - POB - Dutch East India Company
So i made a more suitable boat. The gluestains are abit of a problem though on the outside of the model i made. I used UHU Hart glue for wood.
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Piet reacted to hlipplaa in Halve Maen ~1608 by hlipplaa - 1/30 - POB - Dutch East India Company
Some more pictures
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Piet reacted to hlipplaa in Halve Maen ~1608 by hlipplaa - 1/30 - POB - Dutch East India Company
These are the first pictures i started to make.
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Piet reacted to hlipplaa in Halve Maen ~1608 by hlipplaa - 1/30 - POB - Dutch East India Company
Hello my name is Hjalmar i'm 30 years old and I come from Amsterdam. I havent introduced myself on the forum section for making introductions, I hope noone minds.
I'm building a model from drawings i got from a dutch modelling site. The scale is 1:30 and i'm using pear and apple wood mostly. It's a bulkhead structure planked and the sides have veneer second planking. The topside planks are about 2 mm pear. The first planking layer is limewood.
I'm using a phone camera so i hope the resolution is good enough.
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Piet reacted to pete48 in KA-6 Australia II 1983 by pete48 - 3/16" = 1' - SMALL
Looking like Rain today and 68 degrees ( I thought it was Summer ) The boxing Kangaroo will have to wait for more Paint.
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Piet reacted to NenadM in Cutty Sark by NenadM
And attack from stern to the left side of hull begun !!!
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Piet reacted to NenadM in Cutty Sark by NenadM
So, between two home works ... at 19:00 on 310C in shadow and 75% humidity. sitting in home yard drinking some cold Ness, bathing in my own sweat and tears ... and thinking about Her .....
Prize question - who is She I am thinking of ?
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Piet reacted to pete48 in Stars & Stripes (US-55 ) 1987 by pete48 - Scale 3/16" = 1'
A quik update, The fairing has been completed and the planking material has been soaking in rubbing alcohol, I am ready to start planking . I will have more photo's of the planking later on , here are the results
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Piet reacted to pete48 in Stars & Stripes (US-55 ) 1987 by pete48 - Scale 3/16" = 1'
Thank you Geoff, I am thinking I will have to add more detail work to this one
Thank you Piet, Britton Chance jr, Did a Amazing job designing this boat . The lines flow very nicely. she was fast and swept Kookaburra III in 4 races, I think Kookaburra's only lead was on the first leg of race 4 , but by the first mark Stars & Stripes was in front
Thank you Dave, She's a pretty Awesome Yacht, I hope I get it right
Best Regards,
Pete
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Piet reacted to Kevin in HMS VICTORY by Kevin - FINISHED - Caldercraft - 1/72
Goos afternoon, torn between lots of things today, F1 Race test match and Victory, so i have delayed watching the Race so that i can listen to the Cricket, Brilliant game
anyway - LOL subject to change the Gun-ports are finished, that for me is a big milestone, i have a couple of lanyards still to put away but the quarterdeck decoration still needs to be finished
so these might be the last few outside photo to be taken as she is going to be a handful to move outside as i start soon on the deck decoration, thank you all for likes and comments which have kept me going
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Piet got a reaction from Kevin in Hr. Ms. O 19 1938 by Piet - FINISHED - scale 1:50 - submarine of the Royal Navy Netherlands in service 1939 - 1945
Hello everybody and my thanks to all who visited and clicked on like, it's much appreciated.
Was not able to accomplish much today. This thing, the deck torpedo launcher, is slow going, because of the painstaking detail work.
I soldered the tube section flanges and cleaned the little excess solder off with a small file. So far I'm happy with them.
Next I had to fashion flanges for the aft and the front of the tubes. I used some round brass rod of 0.3 mm instead of the square rod. After I dressed them down they looked square as well. I'm happy with them as well. I didn't need a thick flange because the aft end is only for solderen the end plates to it. The front flange is for a seal of the tube doors.
Talking about tube doors, I made two and used my oak mandrill to press them into a dome shape. This is the same tool I used for the crew hatches and torpedo loading tubes, way back when.
Another reason why I didn't accomplish as much as I wanted to is that I was pondering on how to make the hinges for the tube doors. Just sitting there and looking at the launcher and thinking. I think that I have to make a few brackets from brass sheet stock for the stationary hinge tubes and solder them to the front ends of the tubes. I would like to finish the front end first before tackling the aft end.
Also still pondering the deck side openings. May have to buy another large sheet of 0.5 mm plywood or make my own plywood. I don't need much if it's only for the doors. That in itself doesn't bother me, I have made plywood before and it won't set me back much and besides, it's kinda fun.
Okay, I made a few pics for my own archive and like to show yuns what has been accomplished today. It first look there doesn't seem any difference with the previous post but believe me there are about 5 hours of work involved.
This shows all the flanges soldered to the tubes with the two doors in front of the launcher assemblyThe small piece of tubing and the wooden dowel is what I used to bend the brass rods around for the flanges.
This shows the launcher assembly with the domed doors laid loosely on top of the tubes.
This shows the launcher assembly with the aft end closed off.
Cheers,