Force9

The Eduard parts come through again.  Here are the 5" twin loading machines.  Pontos ignore these.  Notice on the drawing from The Floating Drydock that the loaders are mirror images of each other.  The Eduard parts agree with this.  Unfortunately the plastic kit parts are not mirror images so I had to cut off tabs and make do.  Here are the loaders set into place before painting.  Notice that there are also curved rails that are not set in place yet.  
 

This is a quick presentation of the latest 1/200 kit from Trumpeter. I have two Japanese, one German ships at that scale and thought that I should also have one American vessel. I always wanted to build the kit from Lindberg about that famous Destroyer, but could not resolve myself to spend time on such a crude kit. When Trumpeter announced the production of the DD-445, it was worth investing into it (I got my kit from Squadron for less than $99.00). Of course, the Lindberg kit designed for flotation is much bigger, but the Trumpeter kit will fit nicely with the other ships I have.
 
The box is very well presented and organized, as is the case with Trumpeter.
 

 

 

 
As is the case with Trumpeter, the instructions comes with a nice double pages, showing the colors and paints required to finish the model. Two schemes are proposed:
 

 
The first page shows all the parts available in the kit:
 

 

 

 

 

 
A large sheet of decals is provided:
 

 
Hull and deck are pre-packaged together:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 

 
Two sheets of PE and a length of chains, are also included: 
 

 

 
I believe this little kit will be popular among the modelers. Trumpeter was planning to provide three different types of destroyer of that same class. We will see if they implement that idea, all the way.
 
Yves

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Fo’c’sle Railing Detail
 
Before proceeding I need to attend to another detail up forward… 
 
Around the Fo’c’sle there should be a lip that extends above the deck.  It serves as a wash plate and supports the base of the railings.  This is not accounted for in our kit, but I think KA or Pontos includes a solution in their photo etch offering.
 
We can see it in the detail of the Father Browne photo referenced earlier:

First, I’ll file down a bit of the existing edge of the Trumpeter kit -just down to the existing coping strip.  This will allow the new strip to be seated down a bit to be even with the deck.


Next, I’ll chisel away the kit coping strip.  This'll be added back later:



Everything is now prepped to add a strip of angle styrene:

I’ll extend it the length of the Fo’c’sle for now… I’ll eventually need to trim it back to allow for the details that affix to the very front of the bow.



 
Lastly, I’ll need to add the new coping strip to the very top outer edge of the angle strip. This should all align a bit better to the actual ship than what Trumpeter has in place.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@MisterMeester  Ahoy Mark... Great progress on your fine build.  I really do think the scratch built bilge keels are a better option.
 
Cheers
 
@Hubac's Historian Hello Marc!  Thanks again for your continued interest.  Your compliments are very appreciated - especially coming from such a skilled scratch modeler.  Funny that my Constitution build still resonates out there in the ether.  I promise to pick up where I last left off once I conquer the Titanic.
 
Folks - I have threatened to start a Youtube channel to widen the audience for my build.  I've decided to hold off until I've worked my way down the starboard side of the kit and figure out all my scratch build modifications.  Then I'll come back to the Port side and let the Youtube audience (BOTH of them - one of whom will be my wife!) follow along.  It'll be useful to have the starboard side as a template to explain everything as I start to videotape and post on my channel.
 
Please stay tuned.
 
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@MisterMeester  Ahoy Mark... Great progress on your fine build.  I really do think the scratch built bilge keels are a better option.
 
Cheers
 
@Hubac's Historian Hello Marc!  Thanks again for your continued interest.  Your compliments are very appreciated - especially coming from such a skilled scratch modeler.  Funny that my Constitution build still resonates out there in the ether.  I promise to pick up where I last left off once I conquer the Titanic.
 
Folks - I have threatened to start a Youtube channel to widen the audience for my build.  I've decided to hold off until I've worked my way down the starboard side of the kit and figure out all my scratch build modifications.  Then I'll come back to the Port side and let the Youtube audience (BOTH of them - one of whom will be my wife!) follow along.  It'll be useful to have the starboard side as a template to explain everything as I start to videotape and post on my channel.
 
Please stay tuned.
 
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@MisterMeester  Ahoy Mark... Great progress on your fine build.  I really do think the scratch built bilge keels are a better option.
 
Cheers
 
@Hubac's Historian Hello Marc!  Thanks again for your continued interest.  Your compliments are very appreciated - especially coming from such a skilled scratch modeler.  Funny that my Constitution build still resonates out there in the ether.  I promise to pick up where I last left off once I conquer the Titanic.
 
Folks - I have threatened to start a Youtube channel to widen the audience for my build.  I've decided to hold off until I've worked my way down the starboard side of the kit and figure out all my scratch build modifications.  Then I'll come back to the Port side and let the Youtube audience (BOTH of them - one of whom will be my wife!) follow along.  It'll be useful to have the starboard side as a template to explain everything as I start to videotape and post on my channel.
 
Please stay tuned.
 
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The after Well Deck (Starboard)
 
I moved aft and continued the thinning of the Well Deck bulwarks.

The drill was again put to work… I removed a section starting an inch or so behind the aft end of the break (where the kit molding changes thickness) and extending a bit forward of where the break ends (to give a bit of wiggle room to for a future modification).

A quick pass with the hand saw will finish the job.
 
I use a sturdy file to clean the jagged edge:

Finally, I’ll need to use a medium and fine file to get a clean opening:

Now to add the bulwark. 
 
This was similarly outlined on a small sheet of .020” styrene as we saw on the forward well deck.
 
I created a mockup to make sure everything fit in the opening.  I used the KA brass bulwark as a template to determine the gangway door locations.  I moved the wash port openings a bit higher to allow for the additional interior bulwark details to clear the Trumpeter decking with the added thickness of the wood deck veneer on top.  Details were added using thin .010” strip.

I installed the new bulwark and then etched the outlines of the gangway doors on the exterior.

It all looked good – until it didn’t.  Something was amiss…
 
Have a look at the aft Well Deck exterior detail extracted from Robert Read’s profile:

I really need to account for all the areas highlighted… The doubling strakes need to be added along with the strake below to give the correct dimension to the side.
 
Additionally, I need to reconsider the wash ports.  Many modelers complain that @#$@ Trumpeter did not completely open the aft well deck wash ports and they must put in the extra effort to open them up.  
 
The kit has an indentation to show their location, but they are molded with a solid interior.  
Ugh.  
 
or… maybe…they got that almost right…?
 
It seems to me that all the photos/representations showing these wash ports on the Titanic always have them with their covers closed over the openings. I can’t find an exception.  I suspect that Trumpeter was trying to compromise – show the wash ports, but represent a cover on the interior.
 
I ripped out the newly installed bulwark and started over.
 
I cut another bulwark using the template I had already made for the first pass.  This time I used .015” styrene for the main bulwark piece. 
 
 I then added a strip of .005” styrene that I cut using my new (and very masculine) Fiskar paper cutter.  I purchased this at a steep discount during an online sale a few months ago.

This is very useful for cutting strips of .005” up to .020” styrene sheet.
 
I shaped the gangway doors using .005” styrene and added them to the exterior.  Then I inserted filler strips shaped to match the curve of the doors (Circled below) and extended the strake across the bulwark piece - protruding a bit on each end.  This’ll help merge everything into the kit and keep it flush to the sides.

I drilled the mooring openings and added thin .005” styrene to represent the closed wash port covers. 

The result is ready to install.

The seams were filled with Tamiya putty diluted with Lacquer thinner and sanded smooth.

The doubling strake can now be added using more of the .005” styrene strips made using the Fiskar cutter.

More .005” strip was added to the lower strake to give additional dimension.  The ports were re-drilled from the inside.
 
New doubling straps were strategically placed to hide the ends of the new pieces.  These were fashioned from .005” strip with rivets added using another fun new tool:

This is a “corner” rivet tool that allows for accurate embossing of the parallel rivet pattern on small styrene strip:

Apply even pressure to get the indentations, then flip over and cement in place.

Finally, I did some careful filing to smooth the top edge.
 
I think this’ll work.
 
I’ll add the interior detail on the next post.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Prow Hawse Port.
Used for the center anchor as well as being towed from ahead.
It did not look as Trumpeter molded it.

 
I began with filing down Trumpeter’s version. Not sure if that was necessary. It might have helped keep the saw in line.

 
I used a #13 Excel saw blade for the cut. I cut down 25mm. This was conservative, making sure I didn’t cut too far, and fined tuned later.

 
The gap here, on the Starboard side, came away pretty much on its own. For the Port side I had to do some additional cutting. The first additional cut was easy. For the second additional cut I decided to drill holes to make the turn easier. I suppose, in hindsight, I could have made that cut coming up from the bottom instead.

 

 
I measured the gap required to be ~0.75mm wide. Using a file to accomplish that width.

 
Cutting complete. No turning back now. I put the Fo’c’sle deck in place to ensure no fit issues down the road.

 
The new Hawse Port CA glued in place.

 

 
I used a straight edge to ensure proper alignment with the stem.

 
The next step was puttying. I first taped the exterior of the gaps, to act as a backstop, because…..

 
…. I applied putty from the interior first.

 
I let this set for 24 hours. I used Milliput Superfine.
As expected, some putty was pushed through to the exterior. Port side as well.

 
Milliput Superfine putty applied to the Port side. Let to cure 24 hours. The red arrow indicates a piece of styrene strip I taped in place. I neglected to take a picture of this prior to puttying. Purpose of this was to let the putty create the forward edge of the recessed strake here, as opposed to me trying to sculpt it later.

 
Post sanding, Port side.

 
Starboard side. Blue arrow in this image better explains the intent of the styrene strip. Red arrow indicates the Mainmast Forestay fitting. Note that it is intact.

 
I flipped the hull upside down to work on the Starboard side. I’m right-handed and wanted to sand from aft to forward, for the most part. My main concern with this was that I hoped the different perspective wouldn’t cause a different result.

 
Starboard side putty in place. Let to cure 24 hours.

 
Starboard side sanding complete (for the most part). Note the red arrow indicating the now missing Forestay fitting. While the hull was still upside down in the cradle, I decided to do some clean up and clipped it with the hand vac. Downside to many resin parts. Very brittle. Spent about 20 minutes looking for it.

 
Next task was to fill these gaps (within the red circles).

 
And filled. For the top ridge I used 0.75mm x 1.0mm styrene strip, sanded down to ~ 0.55mm² prior to gluing in place. For the bottom gap I used 0.25mm x 0.5mm strip.

 
The ridge gaps on the Starboard side were not as bad and did not require styrene. The camera shows me they still need attention, however, so I’ll take another look at those.

 
New forestay fitting manufactured from 0.75mm x 1.5mm styrene strip. The hole is 0.7mm. Larger than the original hole, but it’s the smallest drill bit I have. Probably should have left this well enough alone until much later. No doubt it will get broken off again. Note to self: Be careful.

 
Some final shots. The last was one shows the cover in place.

 

 

 
It’s not perfect, but disaster averted. This could have gone so wrong. I'm very pleased with how it turned out.
 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.   
 
Cheers,
Mark

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan