Force9

The Forward Well Deck Bulwark (Starboard)
 
Time now to install the starboard bulwark replacement… Let’s see how it fits.
 
I made the section a bit longer on the aft end so that I could carefully file the end a bit at a time to get a perfect fit.

Once satisfied, I first cemented down the forward upright side – paying particular attention to aligning the facing of the new section with the outboard hull edge.

Next, I cemented down three strips along the base and lined up the new piece with the hull across the bottom – again paying particular attention to exact alignment to the outer hull surface.  Since there is a slight curve to the hull along this edge, I divided the strip into three sections so that there wouldn’t be any tension pushing outward along the length of the new bulwark.

Lastly, I cemented the aft edge to align with the edge of the hull – paying particular attention… blah, blah.

The small gaps are fine… easily filled in and smoothed over at a later step.

You can see the significant improvement in the scale width of the bulwark.  Not to say it is exact to what the true scale would need to be – but close enough for me.  Using the .020” sheet gives enough stiffness to work without the risk of warping when the inner details are applied.

I did not add the inner stiffeners and other details “off the model” ahead of installation.  That would be wasted effort if for some reason I messed up the fit and alignment of the new section and had to start over.  (ask me how I know) Instead, I’ll add those details in situ after I’m satisfied with the fit.
 
The gap that is created with the thinner bulwark will be handled with filler pieces.  Once the Scaledecks piece is in place, the space will get filled with the “Limber Board” that overlays on top of the deck along the inboard edge of the bulwark.
 
I’ll follow up to show some of the detail in place, then move on to the aft well deck starboard bulwark.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Forward Well Deck 
 
The Well Decks were a key feature of many steamers during the period when the Olympic class were built. These decks were optimized for handling cargo and included large hatchways and service cranes. The decks were situated lower down at the Shelter Deck (C deck) level to minimize the distance that cargo would need to be hoisted.  To further ease the process, the Well Deck bulwarks included gangway doors that opened to create a pass thru so that cargo didn’t need to be hoisted over the bulwarks.
 
There seems to be some confusion with some Titanic modelers about passenger access to these decks… 
 
Certainly, these would be restricted areas and off limits to passengers while dockside and cargo handling was ongoing, but once everything was stowed below and the hatches were battened down and the tugs were easing the ship out into the harbor channel, these became the open promenades for the third-class passengers.
 
We can see passengers lingering on the Well Decks in multiple photos... The famous Father Browne photo of the tugs pushing Titanic away from the unmoored steamer New York clearly shows third class passengers at the railing of the forward well deck.

Take notice of what we DON’T see in the photo… Women or children. I don’t think they were restricted from using the forward well deck as a promenade, but the forward berthing below this area was set aside primarily for unaccompanied gentlemen traveling in third class. (I think married couples traveling in third-class without children could also be berthed in the forward section).  Hence the concentration of men in this area.
 
Third class families and single ladies were berthed in the after part of the ship. Something to keep in mind for modeler’s wanting to add figures to their decks.
 
The first order of business is to address the overscale thickness of the forward well deck bulwarks.

These thick sides would make the Yamato envious. It really detracts from the overall accuracy of the kit.
 
I hate ‘em. 
 
I’ve got to solve for this.
 
I determined that I could remove a section and replace it with thinner styrene versions using .020” sheet.  It may be that thinner sheet (.015” or .010”) could be used to get even closer to true scale, but I felt the risk of warping was too high.

Firstly, I created an outline of the existing bulwark onto the sheet:


This was cut and filed to shape and positioned into a hastily assembled jig to help keep the piece aligned while the wash ports were marked using the KA brass version:

I carefully cut out the marked wash ports using the edge of a sharp micro-chisel that closely matched the required dimension.
 
This piece became the “master” that was used going forward to create the versions that would be used on the kit.

Using the master, I first created a mockup to test the application of detail on the inner and outer surfaces.  I wanted to make sure that the thin piece did not warp or otherwise get distorted when I glued the details onto the inboard side or when I etched the outline of the doors on the outboard side.


All good. You’ll notice that I have opted to include an opening for a gangway door.  I think this’ll make the model more informative and visually interesting.

I did a test fit before I removed the kit bulwark to make certain the wash ports align.
 
The area is marked for removal and the drill fitted with a small diameter drill bit – not too small, but small enough to allow for accurate and precise holes.

Those of you who are squeamish will need to avert your eyes:




Next up was the heavy file:

Then the finer file:

Lastly a small detail file for the corners:

Remnants of the partially sliced doubling straps were chiseled away:



Nice clean outline – ready for the new bulwark.
 
This is fun - stay tuned.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Apologies to everyone for the long delay… I spent some time across the past few months working on my US Frigate Constitution model along with a bunch of travel (including to the other coast for my daughter’s college graduation) that kept my Titanic on ice (so to speak).
 
Let me catch you up.
 
Propeller Wings Continued…
 
There was still some styrene to add to the propeller wing surfaces.  The top and bottom wings are now completely covered and additional styrene was bent and glued around the prop shaft/boss outer surface. 
 

 
 

 

 
Added some thin strips to represent the plate overlaps in the same manner as the underbody hull plating… 
 

 
Used Tamiya tape to make a template to help guide similar placement on the starboard wing to make sure it all looks equal from the stern.
I won’t be utilizing the kit provided propellers, but why not slide them on to get a quick perspective with everything in place?

 
Next up I’ll highlight my initial effort to thin out the sides of the hull around the open first-class lobby entry doors to better match the scale.
 
Cheers,
Evan
 

@Roger Pellett
 
Ahoy Roger... The book has some fascinating insights and I am learning a lot that isn't included in the normal fare that we all consumed about the Titanic over the years.
 
I will PM you regarding the email insights.
 
I do like the professional assessment that Naval Engineers provide about the Titanic disaster... Sure, the rivets varied in relative tensile strength and the cold temperatures of the North Atlantic may have played a part in their failure... There was a smoldering fire in a coal bunker that may have weakened the nearby bulkhead and made it vulnerable to hydrostatic failure... But ultimately the Titanic was state of the art and built to the highest standards available in that era.  
 
After extensive research and recent insight I've unearthed the TRUE reason for the tragedy of the Titanic... Psst (in whispered tones)... While steaming along at over 20 knots she sideswiped an iceberg in the North Atlantic.  The rivets would've failed regardless... The internal bulkheads would ultimately fail to protect her regardless... No level of 1912 era technology would've saved her.
 
Sure... Plowing straight into the berg might've kept her afloat with massive casualties in the forward section.  But nobody then or now should advocate for Murdoch to have made that choice.
 
I should include this stuff in my YouTube log!
 
Cheers
Evan

@dvm27 I am familiar with the terrific YouTube series that Ben (and Nora) put together for the Trumpeter Titanic... I especially appreciate that he acknowledge his mistakes (that we ALL make) along the way and showed his recovery process.  His outline of all of the 3rd party options is extremely helpful.  There are other great YouTube logs for the kit and I'm not certain that the world needs ANOTHER one... But I hope to bring a fresh perspective.  In particular, I'd like to emphasize the enhancements and various corrections that I'll be including in my build to move it closer to a more accurate representation of the ship.  As you've seen in my build log here, I'll also include background on my research wherever applicable... I'm not sure that what I've seen so far in the Vlogosphere  does a complete job of showing WHAT is being done, HOW it is being done, and WHY it is being done.  This'll be important in my YouTube approach to illustrate my scratch build elements - a key difference from other YouTube logs to date.  We'll see if I can pull it off.
 
@patrickmil  Aye Patrick  This group will be the first to know.  I don't think I'll publicize my channel beyond this space for a few months until I gather feedback from you all... I'll always update my build log here first... It'll help me organize my thoughts/approach for my YouTube versions. 
 
Cheers
Evan

@Roger Pellett
 
Look what I finally found!
 

 
Your book recommendation started to seem familiar to me... I searched all over for it.  Turns out my daughter had it with her at college!  Demonstrates her interest in all things Titanic related...
 
I now have it  bedside and am reading several chapters a night... Fascinating stuff.  Great to get the perspective of Naval architect types.
 
In the meantime...
 
Folks - I apologize for the lack of updates.  I've been stalling while I consider adding a YouTube series about this build.  I need to build up the necessary equipment from scratch so I've petitioned St. Nick to add some packages under the Christmas tree.  There is the sticky matter of being a "Good Boy" this year... I've done a back of the envelope calculation and I'm optimistic that on balance I have a net positive rating across the year.  In the meantime, I'm getting up to speed on video editing.
 
Stay tuned!
 
Cheers all
Evan
 
 

@Paul Jarman Thanks for the note... It seemed to me that there were a million portholes as I was drilling them out... Gawd forbid I have to add the rivets!!!
I popped in on your build - great to see a wood kit that lets you construct a much more accurate hull underbody.
 
@richardhd Thank you for popping in too.  I appreciate any encouragement.  I suspect you're not the only lurker... Unless 7 people are clicking on my build a thousand times each.  
 
I'll say that this kit can never be 100% accurate - but I will try to move things a bit closer to the historic ship where possible.  Most purists would probably not take this on because of the discrepancies - or abandon ship midway thru in exasperation.
 
Don't hold your breath awaiting paint... I'll likely put off painting the hull as long as possible.  It'll become a much more fragile thing that will be susceptible to scratches, blemishes and dust... I'll avoid those risks until I absolutely have to apply paint in order to proceed.
 
Thanks to all for the Likes and the patience between updates.
 
Cheers
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

The Bilge Keel
 
The kit provided bilge keels are – no surprise – subpar.  No hate on Trumpeter here… It’s nearly impossible to create an accurate keel using injection molding.  It’d be too thin and would likely warp as it cooled on the sprue.

So, the kit version is very thick/heavy and lacks any of the detail that the actual keel would show.
 
Here is what TITANIC – TSM shows for these keels:

You can see that we need thinner representations with doubling strips top and bottom along with a narrow cope along the outer edge of the underside.
 
I think there have been 3D print versions for these, but that seems like overkill.  These are very easy to scratch build at minimal cost.  Any modeler can (and should) make these.
 
I purchased some Styrene T pieces from PLASTRUCT:

These are long – 24” – so that I don’t need to combine smaller lengths. Just trim the piece to fit the outline on the model.  I found these at the nearby Model Railroad store.  Those guys build model bridges with this stuff.
 
First, I shaped the curvature on both ends using my hobby knife and a quick pass with a medium metal file.
 
Next, I dipped into my stash for various strips to add the cope and doubling/reinforcement:

I’ll use the wider .080” strip for the top surface and the slightly smaller .060” on the underside.  That’ll generally align to what the TSM diagram shows. 
 
A quick test fit to confirm that the basic dimensions align to what is needed for the scale:

Couldn’t be easier to lay down the topside .080“ styrene strip… Just rest it in position against the inner corner of the T, apply some thin cement, and let the capillary action fill in underneath. It takes two pieces to cover the distance.  I just matched the factory ends together for a tight fit.  The seam is basically invisible.  Let the smaller length extend a bit beyond the end of the T piece and trim to fit after it sets.

Flip it over and do the same on the underside using the .060” strip.
 
Finally add the .010” x .020” cope to the underside edge.  I used a small metal ruler to help align to the edge as I applied cement:

The underside completed:



A meaningful improvement over the kit version, I think.
 
It just takes a few minutes to whip these together.  Fun to build for anyone wanting to try a little scratch building on their Titanic.
 
I’ve decided to hold off a bit longer on installation… These would be vulnerable as I continue to flip the hull around on various other add-ons.
 
The starboard after well deck bulwark is up next.
 
Cheers,
Evan

Looking good, Evan. Excellent sleuthing on the gangway doors. Excited to see what you come up with for bilge keels.
 
Cheers,
Mark

@MisterMeester Love seeing the progress... And I appreciate the observation that improving the kit accuracy is likely to be a never ending quest.  I do, however, like the choices you're making in the near term.  
 
(and I see that you've figured out the Mini-Brass TEMPLATE provided for the placement of the discharge openings.  Interesting how many modelers think that is an additional part to be placed somewhere on the model!)
 
Fun stuff
 
Cheers
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

@MisterMeester Love seeing the progress... And I appreciate the observation that improving the kit accuracy is likely to be a never ending quest.  I do, however, like the choices you're making in the near term.  
 
(and I see that you've figured out the Mini-Brass TEMPLATE provided for the placement of the discharge openings.  Interesting how many modelers think that is an additional part to be placed somewhere on the model!)
 
Fun stuff
 
Cheers
Evan

The Gangway doors
 
A quick thought exercise…
 
The future positioning of the open Gangway door on my model is a bit of a puzzle.
 
My initial understanding was that these gangway doors were REMOVABLE… slide out the upper bolts, loosen the detachable iron stays, lift the gangway door away and stack it off to the side while loading cargo.
 
I see these referenced as removable doors in many Titanic forums. This is supported by a caption on a photo in TITANIC THE SHIP MAGNIFICENT book:

But alas… This is contradicted by the diagram on the opposite page where these are described by the author as FOLDING gangway doors:

Hmm…
 
If these are indeed folding doors, then how do they work? 
 
It might make sense that these gangway doors hinge 180 degrees outboard and lie flat against the hull during cargo transfers.  That would keep the doors out of the way and the deck clear. But these are heavy and could be problematic to pull back up into position.  They could also damage the sides and paint if they swing all the way down.
 
Alternatively, there seem to be photos/video from the wreck showing these gangways swung 90 degrees outboard and resting on their hinges.  Presumably the sliding bolts melted away and the detachable iron stays rusted thru leaving these doors hanging precariously outboard.

But that can’t be the correct position while loading cargo.  They’d be in the way and subject to damage as loads were swung up and inboard by the cranes.
 
Hmm…
 
I think Robert Read provides the answer.  His excellent overview of the Titanic Hatch Coamings (“Titanic-Hatch-Coamings-Color” that can be found in his Titanic CAD collection) includes a grainy historic photo showing the handling of cargo on the forward well deck:

Have a look at the circled portion of the photo… Aha. We see the gangway door folded inboard and lying flat on the deck with the detachable iron stays protruding out from underneath. Note the white coaming strip and the yellow sheer stripe painted on the outer surface of the gangway door.
 
This seems to undermine the idea that these doors were removable.  Instead, it looks like these are folding doors that stay attached to the bulwarks and hinge inward to provide the pass-thru for cargo being swung on board.

I’ll replicate this when I eventually reach this stage.
 
Next up – The Bilge Keel:

Cheers,
Evan

First ever experience with PE went well. Very pleased with the results.
 
Started with the Condenser Discharge Ports. I did the Starboard side first....

 

 

 

 
And the Port side. For this side I decided to give the provided template a try. I think it helped a bit, but not essential.

 

 

 

 

 
Looking forward to working with the rest of the PE and getting on the hull.
 
Thanks for looking. Suggestions are welcome.
 
Cheers,
Mark  

Trumpeter should definitely hire you to improve their models.... 😄
 
Amazing work.
 
Yves

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan

@Jeff59 - The hull modifications have not YET pushed me over the edge... Stay tuned.  Speaking of temporary insanity - Great to see your progress on the Bismarck.
 
@md1400cs Thanks for keeping up with my build.  I appreciate the encouragement.
 
 
More Starboard Well Deck Bulwark Detail
 
I’ve made progress on the Well Deck.
 
Details have been added to the interior of the bulwark:


Sliding bolts, bulwark stay rods, etc. will be added at a later stage. I’ll likely utilize the KA PE versions of the rigging pad eyes.
 
The exterior has also been refined a bit.
 


You can see the doubling strake is in place as well as doubling plates.  These plates are only the underlying beds at this point… I will come back and add a top layer to these using the thinnest styrene sheet that will include the rivet pattern.
 
Additionally, the coping strip has now been extended across the new piece using .10” x .20” Styrene strip. This is also added along the top edge of the Fo’c’sle wash plate that was recently added. 
A bit tricky to keep it straight along the edge – a small metal ruler was a useful guide while gluing.

More fun to come.
 
Cheers,
Evan