Oystein

Nils: Stumbled upon this link to a page containing a sailing plan plus a number of photos (bottom of page) of the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. Might perhaps be of interest for you.
 
http://www.norwayheritage.com/p_ship.asp?sh=kaiwi

Nils: Stumbled upon this link to a page containing a sailing plan plus a number of photos (bottom of page) of the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. Might perhaps be of interest for you.
 
http://www.norwayheritage.com/p_ship.asp?sh=kaiwi

Nils: Stumbled upon this link to a page containing a sailing plan plus a number of photos (bottom of page) of the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. Might perhaps be of interest for you.
 
http://www.norwayheritage.com/p_ship.asp?sh=kaiwi

Nils: Stumbled upon this link to a page containing a sailing plan plus a number of photos (bottom of page) of the Kaiser Wilhelm der Grosse. Might perhaps be of interest for you.
 
http://www.norwayheritage.com/p_ship.asp?sh=kaiwi

Build log part 94
 
 
COMPLETE
 
 
This post rounds up and completes the 29 months build duration of my HMS Pegasus in scale 1:64.
 
After putting on rudder chains, all bow-lines with their bridles to the squaresails, and appropriate rigging, the crew and some naval infantry men shipped in today to take over an interception and patrol mission in the northern Atlantic. Perhaps there will still be anchor buoys fitted to the lower fore-shrouds....
 
Its been much fun to do this build and especially it`s extensive rigging with all those tiny blocks, but now she is a nice sight with all those sails and pushing her wake, riding on starboard bow with braced sails. Putting on nearly all lines the actual ship had, it was a good lesson in rigging. Next  week I`ll put the final pictures in my Gallery.
Now its time to do the glass display case for dust protection.
 
Due to the modification of the 12 sheet Amati plan set, and building it from scratch (no kit) there are :  the large open port side, the half planked decks, the interior decks and the visible inside fitting out. The POB scratch built ship`s boat is an extra, and the access to the forecastle is by a seperate stair / ladderway .
 
Many thanks to all that visited this build along the ride from beginning on, and so many thanks to all comments and appreciations, and "likes", it has been a pleasure and was very encouraging for me
 
here are the first 10 of appr. 20 final pics......
 
Enjoy the pictures
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

and here the second lot of the final pictures......
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

Hello

Thanks for watching my buildingreport and for the support I get from you. Not only in this report but in forum as whole. Your buildings really encourage me to build.
 
I worked on the Pelikaan again. On the wheelhouse I wanted something to watch at so I started building an interior. It's meanth to be scematic and it is not on scale. But I think it looks good later when you look trough the small windows of the wheelhouse
 

Hi all mates.
I don't know about your countries but here, even some days before Christmas the weather seems rather like starting autumn...
So last week I had the chance to test my model in the sea and as I had promised you, you can see the results in the below photos.
 
Home and seashore preparation 
...
 
And here she goes….
...

Hello fellow shipbuilders,   Meanwhile I made the roof and the so-called "Pet" and that makes the bridge really complete. It was very hard to find the correct shape and it took me more cardboard and ps plate than I wanted. But at the end it worked out well.

update...
 
Build log part 26
 
all portholes (port side) are mounted into the drilled hull holes, the forecastle name is put on and the hull painting is under way (port side)
 
Nils
 
 

 
the letters are brass photo-etched
 
 

 
the stern decoration is not ready for mounting yet
 
 

 
 
 
next will be the borderline painting black / red, and then the starboard side will be pulled up likewise
 
 

 
the black color is completely dull, the red paint will be silk appeal when the paint is cured out

a little update.....
 
the first of the 458 hull`s portholes are put on, and before that the areas were painted...
These close ups  really don`nt hide anything
 
Nils
 
 

 
the most left one is the tube bushing for the aft anchor chain
 
 

 
the upper forecastle portholes between the rails
 
 

 
twenty of them on each side
The plugged off two porthole in the third line from the top were due to misaligned drilling
 
 

 
poop deck portholes
 
 

 
 

 
upper hull portholes on white background strip, under the promenade deck
 
 

Build log part 25
 
 
the portholes are not fitted yet, (to be mounted after final painting of hull), but the hull is drilled in the oppropriate places, and the upper two rows will have "eyebrows", to keep the porthole glasses clear
 
The unsymmerical tubing for the aft anchorchain is set and stb-side has the upper bow-decoration attached
 
Nils
 

 
I am satisfied with the dull black hull color
 
 

 
front bow decoration as shown / made in the last post
 
 

 
the number of portholes and positions are corresponding with the overview drawing
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Update
 
 
parts (some) of the decoration for bow and stern..... (first trial...)
 
Nils
 

 
up and in the centre of the golden decoration at stern is the badge with the "Kaiser.Eagle". This is printed in appr. scale on Photopaper, and the badge baseplate is cut out with a hole-punch  tool. Because of the rubber plate under the soft anealed  brass stockplate the edges become that rounded badge character
 
 

 
a small drop of semi-thickened-viscosity CA mounts the emblem to the badge base, so it looks like a small button
 
 

 
the upper bow decoration gets the mini-badges with the state Bremen`s "Himmelsschlüssel" (sky key), which the NDL line showed on their liners. The metal antique bronze decor base parts  will be goldened as well
 
 

 
the little blue "sky key" badges are made in the same way, but smaller in diameter
 
 
 
 

Build log part 24
 
Here is a little update....
 
Nils
 
 

 
dry fitting the supporting I-beams for the promenade deck in this area
 
 

 
The 10 stachions per side are small brass tubes where the copper pins go through, the pin-heads are interlocked within the deckstripes above, and are hidden by the (to be glued on) coamings of the deck planking later on
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
the white primered scupper / throughpass in the bulwark is for the mooring cables when the ship is at the kay. There are three of these on each ships side
 
 
 
 
 

Hello Paul,
 
I just drilled the portholes (not all yet) for the KWdG, and think now I know what you meant with ".. the worst nightmare for us modelers...", and why you recommended to make and use a jig tool for doing so.
Although I was utmost careful with the drilling ( no Jig used  ) there were some that fell a little bit out of the alignment. For the first upper two rows I will try to mount "eyebrows", also here your comment of the last chance to get the optic a little better are still well in my mind
As I`m using the porthole inserts without flanges on the outer hull skin, I wo`nt be able to file the holes a little oval in the right direction, in that case there could have been a covering of the "oval hole" by the flange to a certain degree
 
Nils
 

 
it is important to cut a clean hole through the metal plating foil before the wooden planking is carefully drilled through.
it gets tricky if the drill partialy hits a frame or a stringer inside the hull. This must be avoided by check before the hole-positions are marked
 
 

 
for the alignment at bow and stern there is a bit of vertical offset acc to the drawing and the museum model shown and built by others earlier in this log
 
 

 
there are 14 coalports on each side, in the largest coal bunker areas there will be no portholes on the lower porthole level.
The upper side-portholes just below the promenade deck are neighther plated nor drilled yet, because the deck must be put on first.

Just want to tell you that I have been following your builds for the last year or so, and that I find them amazing. I'm memory storing lots of methods and techniques from your logs - hopefully employing them on a not so distant future build of mine. Always looking forward to your updates.
 
Gruss aus Norwegen

Just want to tell you that I have been following your builds for the last year or so, and that I find them amazing. I'm memory storing lots of methods and techniques from your logs - hopefully employing them on a not so distant future build of mine. Always looking forward to your updates.
 
Gruss aus Norwegen

Just want to tell you that I have been following your builds for the last year or so, and that I find them amazing. I'm memory storing lots of methods and techniques from your logs - hopefully employing them on a not so distant future build of mine. Always looking forward to your updates.
 
Gruss aus Norwegen

Build log 7 – more bow details, boat deck
 
 
Thank you Greg and Nils.  I'm not sure that the model merits three "wows" yet, but I will keep trying.
 
I continued the build by turning to some of the detail work that had been put off till more of the coarse work of building up the decks was done.  These included the external anchor and the ship’s name.  The plans and photos show that the anchor is set in a square depression with rounded corners that is shallowest at the upper edge and deeper at the bottom.  The color separation line crosses it.
 

 
I made up a quick template from a plastic strip and scribed the tilted outline on both sides of the hull.  With a flat-bottomed carving bit and a light touch I carefully removed plastic and wood until I had the depression that I wanted.  The bottom was smoothed and a hole was drilled to take the mounting post of the anchor fitting.  The depression was painted in black and white to match the hull, then the anchor and hawse pipe fitting was pinned and glued in place.
 

 
The name was another custom decal created in my computer.  Photos of the ship show that the letters were raised brass, which I could not duplicate, but Photoshop let me select a gold tone for the letters with a narrow black shadow effect that makes them stand out. 
 
For the draft marks at the waterline I located a decal set from Europe in 1:200 scale using the correct Roman numerals.  These were applied vertically port and starboard near the bow and at the stern up the rudder post.  Since the carrier was clear no edge painting was needed.
 

 
The Plimsol Line marking could not be sourced, so it was custom made.  I researched a number of sites for the design and learned that there is different lettering depending on the country of registry of the ship.  The “R” and “I” indicate an Italian ship.  Because the symbols are white, and I don’t have a Cartograph printer, I had to use white decal film, so the black and red colors were also printed.  It took a number of experiments to get the right shades.  The best one was printed out, set in place, and the cut white edges hidden and feathered with paint.
 

 
On the bow working deck I made up the anchor machinery.  I never could find a clear photo of these fittings on the Doria, but I did find one taken of them on a contemporary Italian Line ship, so I used those as the patterns.  First the hawse pipe openings were located and drilled out about half an inch deep.  The pipes were painted flat black before metal hawse lips were painted and installed. 
 
The anchor chains run through chain brakes, then aft along a chute with raised sides, then around the anchor winch and down an elbow fitting to the chain locker below.  A combination of several pieces of various metal fittings and scratch-made plastic elements, and an overall coat of grey paint, were needed to make it look like the photos.  After pinning and gluing the winches down a set of margin planks were added to make them look built into the deck.
 
The spare stockless anchor rests against the forward wall of the deck house and is secured by a narrow strap.
 

 
The next deck up was the boat deck which turned out to have a surprise for me.  When I stacked the rough decks and deckhouses to see how they fit, something didn’t look right.  It took me about a week to realize that it was the boat deck.  I had assumed that all of the decks were the same height, but the plans showed that the boat deck was some 2 feet taller.  This then required a quick scramble to add another 1/8” sheet of basswood to the deckhouse.  Lots of clamps were used to get a tight fit between the pieces.
 

 
All of the edges were shaped to final lines with a benchtop 6” sanding disc, which also insured that they were vertical.  Notches were cut for doorways as indicated on the plans.  These entryways now made sense, because they now had the room for short stairways to the doors leading to a raised floor. 
 
The sheathing is 0.020” styrene sheet which is easily cut with a knife and straightedge.  I find that cutting all the way through leaves a burr along one edge, so I scribe the line about halfway through and then bend and snap it the rest of the way.  Very little cleanup is needed with a medium grit sanding block.
 
The sheathing is glued to the wood with medium thickness cyano.  I lay a bead of it direct from the bottle onto the plastic, which I have indicated with the grey line.  On the plastic it stays liquid until brought into contact with the wood, giving me enough time to position it carefully.  I have to move quickly, but with a bit of practice it goes along pretty smoothly. 
 

 
Most of the raised doorways only needed a small piece of HO scale plastic house siding to simulate steps, but a few had small landings.  The platform was built of sheathed wood with photoetched railings and steps.
 

 
Handrails were made from 0.020” brass rod, which seems to be a bit straighter and stiffer than identical sized brass wire, while still being malleable enough to bend around curves.   Pieces were cut to fit just short of the space between doorways or the end of a deckhouse section.  The handrail supports are wire, for flexibility, but 0.016”.  I first draw a horizontal line along the side of the deckhouse with a compass set to the scale equivalent of 42 inches from the deck. 
 
Just below the line I drill holes for the supports at an angle, then insert the wire and clip it off leaving a stub which then holds the rail to the deckhouse wall.  A drop of thin cyano is applied with a toothpick, which wicks into the hole and around the support and railing, securing everything.  When all the supports for a section of railing are done and the glue dry, the stubs are clipped off as short as I can with a cuticle nipper from the cosmetics section of my local drugstore.
 

 
The location, pattern, and style of windows was taken from the photos and the appropriate decals applied to the deckhouse as before.  Here is how the deckhouse looked before installation.
 

 
On top of the boat deckhouse was the deck piece for the next deck up, the Lido Deck.  In this photo you can see the construction sequence.  After the rough cut piece was refined slightly to fit exactly to match the lower decks, the decking paper was applied, making sure to line up the plank seams with the centerline.  The edge of the paper was trimmed back to the edge of the wood then an edge strip of 0.125” styrene was put on.  Openings for companionways were cut out and stairways were test fit.  The Lido Deck house has been sheathed and its position is being adjusted.
 

 
At the bow end of the Boat Deck house the margin plank is being applied.  Here you can see what a difference that simple strip of paper makes.  Without it the house looks like it ‘floats’ a little above the deck.  With it, the deckhouse settles down and becomes an integral part of the whole.  At least to my eye.  It also gives a nice, polished look to the edges of the stairway openings in the deck. To get it to take the curves, the strip was misted with water and allowed to relax before glue was applied.  Working in small increments it was worked around the base of the deckhouse and along the companionway edges.
 

 
Here is some of the reason for all the test fittings of decks and deck houses.  The sheathing has to flow seamlessly from around the Promenade Deck house up past the Boat Deck to the overhanging edge of the Lido Deck, and then around to form the free-standing bulwark at the forward face.  I got them all to line up almost exactly, but some joints had to be filled with a little Squadron white putty and sanded flush.  The difference in texture that you can see will be blended and smoothed with later coats of finish.
 

 
Toward the stern the same techniques have been used.  The walls to the sides of the second class pool have multiple tight curves, but by heating the sheathing strips with a hair dryer they conformed without a lot of effort.
 

 
In the photo you can see the side of a grey strip overhanging the boat deck windows.  It seems to be a narrow walkway area to service the lifeboats, their davits and winches.  Some of the davit fittings are balanced on the edge to check alignment and fitting.  I have no idea why the walkway ends without reaching the forward end of the Boat Deck, and is replaced with two short stools to support the forward davits, but that is how it looks on the plans and photos.
 

 
So here she is with the Boat Deck in place and most of its details done and with the Lido Deck under construction.
 
 
 
Construction in the shipyard is a bit slow at the moment, so the next installments should be out soon.
 
Dan
 
 

a Little update...
 
Build log part 17
 
 
the first Saloon and cabin wall section I start with is in the aft waist area, one deck lower. This has to be done now because the Long Promenade deck (when put on) will not allow Access to this part afterwards.
The metal sections of the superstructure will also be plated. The procedure is to produce a smooth wooden surface, and plate with ponced resembled "riveted"  metal surface.
Then cut free the positions in the foil where the port holes are to be drilled. Dry fit the brass handrails, then take off the handrails, primer the cabin walls, paint the surface, let dry, and then insert the "preglassed" portholes and the handrails again. Secure the handrail stanchions at the inner side of the walls with a drop of CA
 
Nils
 

 
a clean circular cut through the foil and a good centering in the wood enables the hole drilling in best possible way
 
 

 
this part takes 30 portholes and six doors
 
 

 
 
 
 

 
here the first handrail piece is dry-fitted
 
 

 
 
 

 
 

 
this is a liquid quick drying filler / primer that gives a wonderful surface to the white dull silk finish paint
(a Gunze / Sangyo, Japanese product)
 
 

 
this is the bulkhead for the step to the poopdeck, primered and painted
 
 

 
dry fit on the ship.....
 
 

 
four srews will later help hold this section securely in place

Little update...
 
have been producing some of the doors in different hights and with different size windowframes, also some forecastle doors, and about half of the double-story promenade deck windows
 
Nils
 

 
the window frames have been sprayed with dull clear varnish in order to keep the brass shiny.
the 4 doors for under the forecastle deck (with each two locking levers) will also be painted
 
 
 

Build log part 16
 
did a trial mock up today for for rounding the 19 mm high cabin wall corners. The doors are  15 mm resp. 14 mm  high depending on position of mounting
 
Nils
 
 

 
doors with window frame, and doorknob are of brass
 
 

 
cut a profile bar for the corner- fitting of the cabin wall plates
 
 

 
easy to round and blend out
 
 

 
a good base for the plating....
 
 

 
gives a nice smooth corner connection
 
 

 
door and porthole fitted

Thank you Denis,
 
it really looks like the glue-swelling out went back over the week. Quite good that I did`nt remove it, otherwise there would be pits in the "skin" now....
 
I`m working at the decks in the waist areas now, after finding a supplier for wonderful precise cut mini pine planks 2 x 0,8 mm. The "caulking" is done with a soft dark pencil along the planks edges
 
Nils
 
 
 

 
a set of 300 fine cut pine-planks 2 x 0,8 mm
 
 

 
planked forward waist area
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
the lower aft waist deck stripes
 
 

 
will do the shrouds for the aft mast later on with buckle screw fastening / tensioning , therefore sufficient bases for anchoring points beneath the deck stripes
 
 

 
the promenade deck will cover these outcuts in the sides later on

Build log part 15
 
Status update:
 
today I cut into the hull sides at the waist areas, the front area lowest point, right down to the deck and the aft Area, leaving an 8mm high bulwark standing. Next will be the deck-planking job in these waist areas. The raw decks  were dry-fitted and are ready for planking
 
Unfortunately I found no figurines in scale 1:144 in fashion of 1900 clothing, pleas, does anybody know where to find some ? 
The only ones I found are out of the airlines scale figurines, and I`m not so fond of military figurines, but I´m happy to have some at all for dimension checks
 
Nils
 
 

 
a Dremel grinder is good for this work
 
 

 
the second raw deck is laying on the second stringer from top, the upper stringer has been cut away, so the remaining bulwark is flush with the inside of the side planking
 
 

 
the port side will have to be brought to the same status
 
 

 
the 8mm raw-bulwark is in hight slightly above figurines waist hight, handrail still to be fitted
 
 

 
 

 
the forecastle deck is still a card template
 
 
 
 
 

Build log part 14
 
 
preparing for the decks, cutting out card templates, will be using 0,8 mm ply and plank this with 1 x 2mm scaled pine strips, pencil "caulking" at the plank edges
 
Nils
 
 

 
inbetween I do 2 more windows at a time...
 
 

 
the forecastle card template and  half the front waist template (one deck lower). The outer limiting timbers (forecastle sheer) will be shaped to fit the rounded transition from hull to deck
 
 

 
half poop deck template