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About jbelwood

  • Birthday 02/15/1940

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Stratford, CT
  • Interests
    Current build: Bluejacket Portland
    Finished builds: Inter-Action Enterprises C.R. LAMB, Train-Troll Western River Towboat

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  1. My current project brings me back to my first love of model railroading. The below image shows an HO scale steel trestle and scenery that I built for a client some 15 years ago. I am currently building the same trestle kit (Micro Scale Models) but in a longer (270') and higher (87') version for a close friend. Scenery to be added is yet another story. Quite a departure from the Portland, I'd say. John Elwood
  2. Have been away from my computer for the past week. Spent the week visiting my daughter and SIL in their summer cottage in Digby, Nova Scotia. Photo was taken in November last year. All last week the Bay of Fundy was extremely calm. Digby is advertised as the World's Scallop Capitol. Bought them fresh off the boat. Thin line in my photo of their photo is due to failed pixel sensor. John Elwood
  3. Before you go any further, take a look at this photo. In particular the paddle box cover. At this point in the build, I couldn't determine where the cover ended. Was it at the main deck or further up just past the saloon deck. No where in the instructions did it tell you to completely cover the box or not. I took a chance and completely covered it down to the main deck as shown in the photo. I guess I did it correctly as the build has gone smoothly since. Out of curiosity, what did you do Dan? You can probably catch a few other little problems, but we'll talk about those later in the build. John Elwood
  4. Norm, I cleaned it with alcohol and q-tips as best I could. Lousy job at best. Sprayed it without using primer but, looking back, I probably should have done so. Floquil seems to adhere quite well on it's own. And yes, some of the paint has chipped away but easy to touch up.
  5. Thanks Mark, I should have known that. Note to Norm, re: MSG question. Lighthouse on CMMS home page yet to be identified. John
  6. Don't be too concerned about the wrong orientation of the floats. Just make sure the floats are ahead of the spokes in the direction of forward rotation. Once installed only the lower 30 per cent of the wheel will be visible. In the above port side photo, the wheel is still removable. Paddle box cover not yet painted or glued in place. Can't understand why the photo got inserted mid sentence. John Elwood
  7. It's been a while since anyone has posted here so I thought I'd bring it back to life. Putting the paddle wheels together is a bit tricky so here's what I did. I cut two lengths of wood approximately 7/16" wide and clamped them between the wheel formers. after spending some time finding three radials where the spokes and rings coincided. Once that was established I added the paddles with CA being careful to orient them properly. Take your time here as the paddles are easily broken. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a way to clean the brass prior to painting. Would suggest washing the oils off your hands prior to working on this assembly. I finished by spray painting two coats of Floquil Santa Fe Red onto each wheel. John Elwood
  8. I drew the water line on the bare hull just to get the position of the scribe correct. Being very careful, I removed the hull and painted it completely with primer and white. Then placed it back into the original position. Since it was now positioned exactly as before, I simply drew a new water line onto the newly painted hull. Now I placed the Tamiya tape just above the new pencil line, and checked it several times for accuracy. Then covered the white area above the Tamiya tape with wide blue painters tape. Make sure the WL tape it pressed down securely to prevent bleeding. When you are satisfied, remove the hull and spray the bottom paint in several light coats until you get the desired result. I removed the tape after about 15 minutes of drying time. Yes Norm, that's me. What you saw was the trailer for the one hour video that was for sale several years ago. It was sold out years ago. They had to remove the music that accompanied it due to product infringement. Those interested simply go to you tube and punch in "John Elwood Model Railroader". Here's an example of my work in keeping with the maritime theme. I have many more photos but don't want to interrupt this thread with silly model railroad stuff. John Elwood
  9. Here is the final finish on the hull. The photos speak for themselves. I forget what I used for the bottom color. Again, large rattle can. The last photo gives away a secret. Yes, I am also a model railroader, have been for more than 40 years. The two on the left display cover articles that I had in Model Railroader magazine and Railroad Model Craftsman more than a decade ago. The layout itself has more than twelve feet of maritime scenes. John Elwood
  10. Here I must digress. Before putting any paint on the hull, I established the water line. As shown in the photo I used (borrowed) a water line scribe available from Micro-Mark. The picture looks confusing as I used a large wall mirror laid flat as a base for the scribe. This enabled me to run the scribe completely around the hull with no faults. Using the plans, I marked where the WL met the bow and stern and placed a small pencil mark. Then spent considerable time getting the hull positioned fore and aft and abeam to align with the scribe. With this all established, I drew a complete WL on the hull as shown. Since I have yet to paint the hull, this allowed me to correct any errors. I then removed the hull and primed it before painting it Rust-Oleum Ultra Cover Semi-Gloss White. When completely dry, I then placed the completely painted hull precisely back next to the scribe. Having previously established the correct height of the scribe, I simply drew the new WL without any errors. That's all for now.
  11. Norm, just got back from a 5 day stay in the hospital. Caught an Ecoli bacteria in my blood stream just in time. Hard to believe you are struggling so much with the decks. From the beginning I struggled with the centerlines. Apparently the laser cut decks are not all that exact. I would suggest you fit them in place as the build proceeds instead of trying to screw align them all at once. You will have more reference marks to guide you. Above all, finish painting the bottom, including water line and sponsons, prior to addressing the upper cabins. Also build the paddle boxes. They will also help you in your alignment with the decks. Temporarily mount the ship on a simple base so you can turn it around and not have reason to pick it up. My next post will show how I drew the water line, and painted the hull. And yes Dan I used Tamiya tape. Perfect for the job. John
  12. Have been following your posts from the beginning Dan. Especially taken by your build of the walking beam. I'm still hesitant to jump into that one. My big hurdle right now is the 18 doors in the officers quarters. I would like to be accurate to the plans but it may be too much for my ongoing anxiety level. I am also scratch building each door to my own design. Nic Damuck said his biggest challenge was the railings. You have taken a novel approach that I would not have considered. I'm a long, long way from that part of the build. Did you use a sharpie to color the rail cap and posts? Looks very exacting. Looking forward to more photos. John
  13. Here's the link, I hope. http://www.jrusselljinishiangallery.com/pages/muller-pages/mullerimage-boston-bay-1898.htm
  14. Here's my favorite painting of Portland by Bill Muller. I phoned him when I was searching for the deck color of the ship. He had no idea. Go to his thumbnails for some more beautiful paintings of various side wheelers. The two deck area paintings are wonderful. John

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