norm1116

John, Concerning the paddle wheel boxes, I spent a while looking at the same issue. The instructions and plans are not detailed enough to figure out how long the covers should be. The new manual says the laser cut parts are 6" long. The old manual says to cut out 4" pieces for the covers. So I looked at the photos. In the new manual, photo 6 on page 24 shows the boxes in place with 5 braces, none in the bottom position, and no covers installed. Photo 11 on page 26 shows 3 braces, with two on the bottom. Also in photo 11 it shows the covers cut off above the bottom brace. Looking at it all, I don't think it would matter either way! At some point, it will all be covered up. Because I'm still not positive which direction is best, I saved the cut off parts in case I need to reattach them. I'd also like to hear what other builders did. By the end of this build log we should have a good idea which way works best!

Thanks John, I'll prime my paddle wheels first just in case. Got the templates ready for the sponsons and will be doing that soon! Getting ready to paint the paddle wheel boxes gold also. You have been a great wealth of information for me, and I appreciate it. Part information, part support, part "just do it", you have been instrumental in my process though this and I appreciate it!

John, When you painted your paddle wheels, did you prime them first or just spray them with the Sante Fe Red? I want to avoid having the paint rub off the brass. I'm going to try to clean it a bit first, but it is not going to be easy. Thanks, and thanks for getting back to me on that light house. I used to live in Old Saybrook as a kid.

Paddle Wheel Boxes The instructions were fairly good. Here's how mine went together so far

Paddle Wheels I saw John's post, and the build log of another Portland clamping spacers between the radials. I tried it and it gave me a run for my money, so I came up with a different plan. Here goes. The manual and John mentioned matching up the radials before doing anything else. As you can see, if each set of 3 is not properly matched, the floats will not look good when glued. (If you open the Portland manual, page 27, photo 12, it looks like the radials were not matched properly. Some of the floats do not make contact across all 3 radials. I may be looking at it wrong, or it might be an optical illusion, but it seems off to me.) In this photo, the radials are not matched. They do not line up around the 4 o'clock and 7 o'clock areas. Once I determined the matches, I marked the corresponding spoke on each radial with a red dot. The manual talks about each paddle wheel being mirror images of each other. One for port, one for starboard. The description of how it works was confusing to me. Here's what I think it is supposed to be. The floats have a blank side, and a side with a chevron laser marked in it. I'm assuming the laser mark side would be placed so it hit the water first. I hope it is not too noticeable, but I installed every one of mine backwards. You will see it in the next few photos. If you are looking at the starboard side of the ship, and the ship is moving forward, the wheel will be turning clockwise. The floats will hit the water supported by the radial beams behind them. If you are looking at the port side of the ship, and the ship is moving forward, the wheel will be turning counter clockwise. The floats will hit the water supported by the radial beams behind them. Back to the "mirror image" thing. The manual says to cut 2 hubs 1-7/16" long. It gives instructions on how to space the radials on the hub, then it says "Do not glue the radials in place yet". I assumed that means do not glue the radials to the hub yet. So, until the hub is glued in place, the 2 wheels are exact copies of each other. Technically, also mirror images, but way confusing in the instructions. Build 2 identical paddle wheels. At a later stage when you attach the wheels, orient them, and glue the hub in, they will become mirror images of themselves. So I'm ready to put it all together. I got a piece of scrap 1/2" wide, 3" long, and 3/32" thick. I used my mini miter box and sawed halfway through the scrap about 1/2" from one end. I then made another cut 15/32" from the first, and another 15/32" from the 2nd cut. from my calculations, there is a 15/32" gap between each radial. I then cut the 3" piece in half lengthwise, and each of those pieces in half again. I used an old shoe box. I cut support notches in each side. Put 3 matched radials on a skewer, matched up my marks, and using the notched scrap wood from the previous photo, I lined up one piece of the scrap wood on the bottom circle. I placed a 2nd piece above it and used binder clamps to hold it in place. I repeated that 180 degrees to the first one and ended up with this. One of the advantages I got out of this was there was a fair amount of "give" at the outer edges. It was easy to align and insert the floats. I only broke off a few of the little tabs. The instructions recommend installing all the floats prior to gluing, but that was challenging. I used a square scrap to visually align the float perpendicular to the radial and put a dab of CA on the center radial to keep it in place. I put in 4 floats, 1 every 6 spokes and glued the center of each. I was then able to adjust the outer radials, install the remaining floats and place a drop of CA on each of the float "tabs". Notice I put the marked side of the floats the wrong way. Because the hubs are installed, they are now mirror images of each other. Until the hubs are glued, they are exact copies. Again, notice I installed them all with the chevron laser line on the wrong side. I got them painted. Not excited about the quality of the paint, or my paint job, but most of it will be hidden. This is a tough one. There is no way to correct mistakes. I did spray paint them with Krylon paint. I have no idea what the actual color name is, it's not on the can. It is a bit "redder" than the paint supplied for the kit.

John, Great photos and explanation of these steps. I have a question though. After you drew the waterline in, did you apply tape to the line, or did you do it another way? On the train side, is that you in the YouTube video about the Olympic & Puget Sound Railway? Everything I've ever done in my life looks like crap compared to what I saw in that video. If that is you, I'm sure others here would like the link to that video. I started the paddle wheel boxes today.

John, I hope you are doing alright now. Ecoli is bad stuff. Your recommendation sounds good. I am not messing with the decks again until I get the paddle wheel boxes done. THey will provide the additional reference points I need. I'm probably reading too much into it again, but I don't want to glue something down to find I was off a quarter inch..... Looking forward to your water line and hull painting post. I have a couple of days scheduled to work, so it may be next week before I get anything accomplished.

All, I added some photos and continued steps to the deck mock up here.

Dan, I'm curious. What made you decide to go with the red highlights in the walking beam? My 1996 kit has the brass walking beam with red highlights, the 2019 kit is all brass.

I really like the lights and figures you added. Really looking forward to seeing the final product. Nice work!

Your whale boat looks spectacular!

Loving that inside view, great work!

Rob, Thanks, and I agree! John's info is going to be instrumental in my success, as is the build log Dan Evans recently started. John, Great paint shots. I'm working on the deck mock up now. I want to be sure the paddle wheel sub assembly fits in properly, so it will be a few days before I get there. I set the salon decks and took them off as they are not straight. Going to reset them in the next couple of days. I have just started a part time job with the main goal of getting some exercise through work. The other option was to join a fitness center, send them money each month, and probably never go.... I'll work on the Portland, but things may slow down a bit. Keep the photos coming (everyone!!) As we go along, I'll include each segment in the index for future builders.

John (and Clarence), Thanks for the sponson idea. The plank on frame would be filled and sanded anyway, and would have turned out exactly the same. I like how yours came out and will probably do the same.