NMBROOK

Having fun with planks

I have spent no little time of late working out a decking plan for the Upper deck of Pegasus.

Things I have decided:

3.4mm x 0.6mm boxwood strip will be used for decking. This is slightly larger than the provided 3mm x 0.5mm Tanganika, but a truer scale.

Scale 118mm planks will be used in a four butt shift pattern, that is four planks between butts.

Within the centre line area of the deck defined by the main Hatch coamings no butts will be made.
This is because with coamings, head ledges, and other centre line obstructions, there was no need for long lengths of decking and therefore no butts.

As far as I can see there was no King Plank on the Upper deck, although there was on the Lower deck to take the supporting pillars for the Upper deck.

A rough plan was drawn up to mark the butt lines, given the shift pattern and the 118mm plank lengths.

The first eight planks are laid full length along the deck either side of the centre line, the various openings are roughly cut out but at this stage not to their full width.

The divisions across the deck are an important guide for getting the butts in line and at the correct places.
I am far to idle to bother with cotton or paper to represent the caulking, I use a Pilot waterproof broad chisel marker to run down one side of the plank, this gives a good scale look to my eye, at 1:64 anyway.

The planking is then laid using 118mm planks in a 5.2.4.1.3 pattern on the Starboard side of the central belt and 5.3.1.4.2. pattern on the Port side, this produces a laid deck with the minimum of butts whilst maintaining the required four planks between each butt in a uniform and symmetrical pattern.

Full length deck planking is much preferred to the kit suggested idea of splitting the deck into three sections divided by two athwartships planks separating the waist from the deck beneath the Fo’csle and Quarterdecks.

I can’t complete the planking along the edges of the waist until the bulwarks are fitted and the three waist bulkhead extensions are removed.

Micro drill holes are made for the butt end treenails which as present are marked with pencil lead, I have not decided as yet to go the extra mile and fit actual trenails, the plank width is very small for this and there is a risk of splitting.

At 1:64 scale I don’t think they should be too prominent, and for this reason I don’t intend to add the intermediate trenails along the planks, it may end up looking like a spotted deck, something I certainly don’t want.

For now it’s back to fairing and doing a little internal fitting work at the stern.
 
B.E.

Fitting the False (Upper) deck

Although I had added additional support beams for the deck the area around the Mainmast and Main hatch was unsupported and is very flimsy.
To beef things up a little I fitted three support posts along the centre line of the deck in this area upon which the Upper deck join now rests.

The lower false deck was planked beneath the Fore and Main Hatches, I used some Tanganyika surplus to my Pickle Build.

The 1mm plywood under-deck was fitted and to provide further stability and give a greater perception of depth I also lined the hatches with 2x2mm strip.
The under-deck is now rigid enough to start planking.

Looking ahead I note that in the build instructions separate Capstans are shown as fitted on the Upper deck and Quarterdeck. This doesn’t strike me as true, they should really be connected, and that is my intention.

Not a mast but a piece for lining up the two capstans. The Hatch linings can also be seen on this shot.

I have removed some of the keel extension below the Upper deck so that the spindle extends below the deck for stability. The corresponding hole in the Quarterdeck is aligned, but a small recess needs to be cut in the aft face of deck beam 9A to allow free passage of the spindle.

I have had a re-think on the Bulkhead 13, I still had niggling concerns about the security of the counter timbers when I attach the stern facia.

I have now modified the original bulkhead 13 and utilised the ply counter timbers provided with the kit albeit made more appropriate by the removal of the solid centres.

 

 

 

This will provide for a stronger framework; the outer stern counter patterns are yet to be fitted.
All dry fitted at this point, I will leave gluing the stern bulkhead as late as possible to avoid the risk of breakage.

There is now a clear run of decking thro’ to the stern, ready for planking.

I am toying with the idea of fitting the hatch ledges and coamings before I plank but I need to fully weigh up the pros and cons before I decide.
If I were building pof I would have to do that way.


The area aft of bulkhead 13 will be filled by the Rudder head case and two tiers of lockers running up to the stern lights.
This is a viable modification for those who wish to open up the stern area on this kit without going to the trouble of making a separate wing transom and counter timbers.

Nothing in the external profile of the original kit has been changed.
 
B.E.

Dust, dust and yet more dust

My least favourite part of a build such as this, adding and shaping the balsa fillers.

I have taken the fillers at the bow back to bulkhead 4, this should provide a good surface both for fairing and planking.

Getting there, but a little way to go.

Trouble with balsa it crumbles around the edges like a fine bit of cheddar, but small imperfections won’t affect the planking line.

The balsa blocks will also provide additional stability for the false deck.

There is one more bit of filler to add –that between the last bulkhead shown above and the final bulkhead yet to be fitted; I won’t do that yet until the fairing is all but complete for risk of snapping the rather delicate bulkhead 13.

For now it’s back to dust, dust, and yet more dust.
B.E.

A bevelling we will go

The kit instructions say to roughly bevel the bulkheads at the stern and bows before fitting to avoid damaging the walnut keel and prow, and for ease of access.
This is ok up to a point but how rough is rough, I didn’t see any reference to using an Angle grinder for rough work.
Only kidding but there is a danger of taking too much off at the wrong angle without the bulkheads being fixed in position so that fairing planks can be used to gauge the correct bevel angle.

This is as much bevelling I did off the model, the bow plank termination patterns are also fixed in place.
I prefer to bevel with the bulkheads firmly fixed and take it slowly using sanding sticks.
I am perhaps fortunate with my kit that the bulkheads are mdf, much easier to work than the plywood I understand is provided in some kits, so I don’t anticipate too much of a problem working them in situ.

Bulkheads 1 -11 were initially glued to the keel, alignment being made with the provided false deck, fitted but not glued at this stage. This part of the build really does go together well; accurately cut snug fitting parts that are a joy to work with.

The two stern bulkheads 12 and 13 will be fitted later.

The build was then set aside to cure overnight.

Once dry the Lower (false) deck was secured using pva. Bulkhead (12) fixed into place, and the Plank termination patterns fitted having been roughly shaped.
There is a need to beef up a couple of the bulkheads to provide a little extra deck support. Could also do with some around the Mainmast area which falls between two bulkheads, but I'm not sure that's feasible.

Additions made to bulkheads 5 and 6.

I decide to remove the keel extensions between bulkheads 11, 12, and 13 completely. Additional support will be provided by beams pinned between the bulkhead centres at the top.

The rather flimsy Upper deck which comes in two halves was tried for size and it fits just like a jigsaw.

 

There is now a clear run of deck thro’ to the stern, although a small extra piece of ‘false’ deck will need to be fashioned.


Even at this early stage the nice lines of a Swan Class Sloop are apparent.

The instructions suggest dividing the planking into three areas, the exposed waist being separate to the planking beneath the Foc’sle and Quarterdeck.

They also suggest planking the (false) Upper deck area that will be covered by the Foc’sle and Quarterdecks, before the deck is fitted, with athwartships strips dividing the waist area from the rest of the deck.
To an experienced eye this looks very odd and is not a correct way to plank a deck.

I will plank the whole deck with the (false) Upper deck in place and run the planks from the stern to the bow using either a three or four shift pattern, not quite decided yet.

I have drawn out a plan of the deck to work out my planking strategy.

Quarterdeck in place.

Foc’sle in place
Again the fit leaves little to be desired.

I think the stern mod will work ok, but the last bulkhead will not be fixed in place until I have inserted the balsa blocks and faired the bow area of the ship.

The decks and beams now have to be dismantled.
B.E.

Pegasus on the stocks 29 December 2010

I make this post really to fix the start date for the build.

Modifications with this kit starts quite early in the build with the marking of a bearding line and cutting of a rabbet along the keel and up the stem. I feel vaguely irritated that the instructions did not make mention of either, although they do say to sand the stern area to half its width, but elaborate no further.

To mark the rabbet I drew a 1.5mm line along the bottom edge of the keel and temporarily fixed strips of 1mm x 2.5mm styrene along the centre of the keel with c.a.
A chisel blade was then used to cut the rabbet using the styrene and the line as a guide. Once completed the styrene strip can be removed.

 

The MDF keel was very easy to cut which bodes well for chamfering the bulkheads.
Styrene strip was also used to provide the sanding line for the bearding strip, which should allow for a reduction to 2.5mm.

It would be better if the bearding line had been shown on the plans.
The separate prow section of the keel was attached using PVA, best done whilst the keel can be laid flat to centre it on the keel.

I have marked but not cut the rabbet where it crosses the tab on the Walnut prow, didn’t want to risk snapping that area off. Don’t even know at this stage whether the rabbet is required in this area, but best cut whilst the keel can be laid flat, it can always be filled in if not required.

 

I like this mdf bulkhead lark they fit together superbly, and are easier to work than the plywood equivalents.

The Building board is completed and she sits patiently on the stocks for work to begin.
 
B.E.

 

Michael a thought springs to mind if you are going to scratchbuild a lantern.If you are going to make a globe shaped one,like this model is often depicted with,then a clear marble or glass crystal sphere would make an ideal base for attaching the frame to and it would act as the 'glazing'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. Lotus Espirits utilised a Renault 25 transaxle
 

Excellent work Michael and a very detailed and informative insight of the work involved in rigging a model of a larger vessel
I am undecided whether it is better to model a ship with little historical info or one like yours with several sources of info,but ones that at times contradict each other
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Great work OC and a very clean sharp paintjob
Kind Regards
Nigel

Fabulous work BobI am trying my best to catch up after a long period of absence.You have completed one build and Well on the way with another
Kind Regards
Nigel
 

Michael a thought springs to mind if you are going to scratchbuild a lantern.If you are going to make a globe shaped one,like this model is often depicted with,then a clear marble or glass crystal sphere would make an ideal base for attaching the frame to and it would act as the 'glazing'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. Lotus Espirits utilised a Renault 25 transaxle
 

Excellent work Michael and a very detailed and informative insight of the work involved in rigging a model of a larger vessel
I am undecided whether it is better to model a ship with little historical info or one like yours with several sources of info,but ones that at times contradict each other
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Lovely work MartynI still have a massive soft spot for this vessel.
Kind Regards
Nigel

Lovely work MartynI still have a massive soft spot for this vessel.
Kind Regards
Nigel

Great work OC and a very clean sharp paintjob
Kind Regards
Nigel

Michael a thought springs to mind if you are going to scratchbuild a lantern.If you are going to make a globe shaped one,like this model is often depicted with,then a clear marble or glass crystal sphere would make an ideal base for attaching the frame to and it would act as the 'glazing'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. Lotus Espirits utilised a Renault 25 transaxle
 

Michael a thought springs to mind if you are going to scratchbuild a lantern.If you are going to make a globe shaped one,like this model is often depicted with,then a clear marble or glass crystal sphere would make an ideal base for attaching the frame to and it would act as the 'glazing'.
Kind Regards
Nigel
P.S. Lotus Espirits utilised a Renault 25 transaxle
 

Thanks for the comments EJ 
A bit more done on the SR . I have built the lower masts and have started the back stays and shrouds 
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Thanks for the likes and looking in 
All the carvings have been fitted to the stern so have cracked on with fitting the smaller cannons to the upper decks.
I have made some small blocks for the out haul tackle as the kit blocks are to large.
Once rigged up some rope coils where added. A few more to do but slowly getting there 
 
Thanks for looking 
Martyn 

Thanks for the likes and for looking in 
A lot more work done on the stern.
The carvings have been painted and fitted to the stern with two pack adhesive , still a few more to do 
The figurehead has also been painted and dry fitted to the bow stem .
l have completed the dead eyes and chain plates. The chain in the kit was gold and looked out of place so I have painted it a dark iron paint which looks so much better.
Still lots more to do so till the next time happy building 
 
Martyn
 

Thanks for the likes 
As promised a few more shots of the carvings but still a lot more to go.
 
Martyn

Thanks to all who have looked in and the likes 
A bit more work done on the stern 
I have started painting and fitting the hundreds of carvings to the stern of this magnificent ship.
The kit gives you some 1mm brass wire to make the bands on the top and bottom of the galleries but I just couldn't get it straight enough to look good so had a think about it and came up a better idea. I have a moulding scraper and decided to use that with some 2x1mm strip pine that I had in my scrap box . The strip was passed through the scraper a few times, sanded and then painted gold. Once fitted and dry the carvings where placed in there positions and glued with two pack adhesive.
Lots more to do but here's a few shots of how it's going 
 
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Thanks for the comments Sjors and the likes 
A bit more done on the SR the knightsheads and bitts have been carved and fitted.
I have also completed the the rails on the forecastle and put in the round gunports 
Next job gluing the strakes to the topmost portion of the hull . Hopefully the next update will show some of the gold carvings in place on the hull 
 
Thanks for following 
Martyn

Thanks for the likes and comments 
 
There you go Bill some pics of the stern of the Sovereign of the Seas . Sorry there not very good but it was a bit gloomy here at the moment. I will try and get some more tomorrow as its going to be better weather 

Thanks for the likes everyone 
 
I have now completed the stern galleries and have painted them . They were a real fiddle to do with lots of bending to get the right shape but really happy with them . 
Next job knightsheads and bitts 
 
Cheers for looking 
Martyn

Thanks Zappto Michael and EJ for the brilliant comments and also the likes.
 I made a mistake by saying that the stern was boring as I should have read through the instructions as there are carved columns that go between the windows. So have painted them gold with a wash of brown to bring out the carvings and glued them in place.
Still working on the galleries but slowly getting there. 
 
Thanks for looking , Martyn