NMBROOK

Hi Antony,
thank you for your compliment .
I continue with the production of external keel. It is made of individual parts which are glued together.

Thanks to everyone for the positive feedback. It gives me great encouragement for further work.
I decided to make wales from separated parts. It took me about 40 hours to make and stick 4+4 wales nad 1+1 black strake .

Excellent work Michael!!!!!.It is just a case of getting your head around utilizing the dials and relating them to the required measurements.You will find the processes easier and cleaner with the dedicated proxxon fishtail milling bits though.They are designed to cut downwards as well as sideways.They also only have two flutes which reduces the chance of burning the wood and generally run cooler for longer.They do last a very long time so don't workout too expensive in the long run.Another advantage is that they fit in the collets instead of using the chuck.This virtually eliminates any run out inaccuracies enabling very high precision work.Only disadvantage is they only come in three sizes so multiple passes may be required if your slot isn't the same size as one of the cutters.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hello,
I thank you all for your motivating notes.
It continues with the preparation of the blocks.

 

 

Hello,
currently I am working with the production of the gun tackle.
Here are a few pictures of the components and a finished gun tackle.

 

 

Next I will show you the gun tackle how it will look on the model.

 

Hello,
I am very pleased with your positive comments.
Here it continues in the report with a small update
 
Breeching rope for the 18 - pounder
The four 18 - pounders of La Créole have meantime been provided with the latest fittings. The next step is to prepare the breeching rope.
The breeching rope of 18 - pounder had a length of 8.20 m and a diameter of 55 mm.
The attachment of the breeching rope inboard on the bulwark was performed using eyebolts that penetrated the hull in the original and outboard with a screw (yellow arrow) were countered.

 

Continuation: Rigging the 18-pounder
All components for rigging of the four 18-pounder guns of La Créole were completed.

   
You can see the double and single blocks of Seitentaljen, the eyebolt and the hooks on the inside are attached to the bulwark and the block hook, for hooking the tackles on gun and the bulwark.

 
Until next time ...

Hello,
thanks for the nice comments.
It is a great pleasure again and again.

Here I show you how I make the blocks for the 18 pounder.
For this I use a primitive holding device so that I can bring each block with a file in form.

 

Hello,
I am very glad for your positive comments, thank you for that.
 
So here are all the hooks before they are blackened.

The next picture illustrates a comparison between the 1st version 2 and version
of the block with hook.

Hello Mark,
thank you for your nice comment.
Meanwhile, I made the blanks for the hooks.
And in the other I make the hooks for inboard.

 

Hello,
thank you very much for your nice comments.
 
The hooks so far prepared are not optimized in shape.

The original hooks were forged from iron. They had thickened and dilutions. The shape is very special, as can be seen in the next picture.

Therefore, I have my previous manufacturing method refined.
On the next screen, the procedure is shown in 7 steps.

In the meantime got the double block the sheaves and the pin.

 

 

 

 

Equip the blocks with sheaves poses a particular challenge.
So I tried it.
Whether it is visible after the pull through of the rope, who knows?
The sheaves have a diameter of 2.5 mm and a thickness of 0.45 mm.          

Hi Albert,
thank you for the nice comment.
 
So it goes on with the construction report.
 
To rig the 18 pounder I'm still researching on with respect to the breeching ropes. Was this right laid or left laid?
In the meantime, I'm doing the "Baille à Drisse", some sort of container for
coiling of ropes, such as the topsail-haylard.
On the French Corvette was thereof a total of 5 units available. 2 pieces each in front of the foremast and the mainmast and 1 piece in front of the mizzen mast.
Here I show the detail of the plan by J. Boudriot.

This is an example of this container on the model of the Belle Poule from the Musée national de la Marine in Paris.

For the French corvette I make the container of sheet brass. The upper and lower parts were etched. The drawing for the film I made myself. The etching is done by a service provider.
After assembly, the part is still burnished. But thereof next time more.

 

 

Hello,
 
many thanks for your nice comments.
By the way, that's not a 18 pounder, but a 30 pound carronade.
 
After burnishing is the "Baille à Drisse" completed.

Equipped with a coil of rope, it looks like this:
 

 

 

Hi Thomas,
hi Remco,
 
in addition to your previous postings I show here again the whole artillery of the Corvette.
As can be seen, there are a total of four 18-pounder guns and twenty 30 pound carronades.

Hello, dear friends!
Thank you for your kind words and support.
I appreciate your comments very much.
 
The five "Baille à Drisse" I have finished in the meantime.
To get an idea, I have placed the five container on the deck.

 

 

 

Hello Nils,

thank you for your positive response.  
Currently I build the long boat for the French corvette. This is the largest boat of La Creole, with a length of 8.5 m.
The following pictures show the first work steps:
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

HI All,
  Been making some progress on turning railings as I realized for the poop deck railings, I didn’t need as much height as for the entrance railings. This allowed me to cut off some of the bases so I could repurpose some of my earlier attempts. I then just cherry picked those pieces that matched reasonably well for height and shape. Railing was as usual slightly edge bent using heat to follow the poop bulwark’s curve. After gluing up, using the end of my ruler as a square to keep things as vertical as possible, I then finished the rails with a couple of coats of WOP.  Hopefully my test fit shows the completed railings pass at least the famous “looks OK from a galloping horse" test! Macro shot shows I need to even up a base or two.  Macro images are just plain tough...show up everything! Oh well...if at first you don't succeed...!    Final shot shows my new ‘rigging table”…which is my captain’s old play table which she has now completely outgrown. Height is about 20 in and is ~50in long by 33in wide so my little Dragon looks rather lost on it!     It also works great as a plan table.    The black chair is my old astronomy observing chair and is infinitely adjustable for height as the seat grips the back rails using a plastic friction bar. Needs a foot rest at the highest settings  (~36in so at least I do!) but again will work well for rigging w/o bending over or standing up for ever. I’ve not seen anyone mention these chairs before so figured I’d post in case it interests someone. They aren’t cheap, but I find mine sturdy and comfortable. Link below for those not into astronomy. Not done any checks for price so look around before you take the plunge if you like it.   https://www.astronomics.com/astronomy-viewing-chairs_c457.aspx   Thanks for reading and of course to those that hit the like button and made the kind comments. Support here on MSW is just great for us newbies!      Cheers,   Nigel.                    

Hi All,
 
Another small step forward as I’ve completed the four cabin doors other than adding the brass hardware as I am still waiting for the blackening solution to show up.  The doors were assembled from some 5mm walnut strips glued together and then cut to shape. The kit did not provide any door frames so I made these from some slightly thicker walnut sheet to try and provide some extra detail.  Each door was used as a template for its arch which was then roughly cut out from the walnut sheet before slowly filing it to fit. The doors by the mizzen mast are slightly shorter than the outer doors so they clear the poop deck edge trim. Their bottom edges were also sanded to follow the deck curve. 
  Thumbnails below and thanks for reading.   Cheers,   Nigel.      

Hi Gang.. Well I got some more done over the last few weeks and thought I'd best put a Photo Update on the Old Log-a-Majigger here.
 
I decided to paint the Ends of the Bowsprit.. The Whole of each Gaff.. The Ends of the Boom & the Mast 'Hounds'.
 
I fitted the Deck Rings for the Guns, though they probably won't be rigged.
 
And Last but not Least I fully assembled the Carronades and added the little 'Handle' for the Elevation Thread thingy & added the semi circular piece that the Carronade Bed 'rotates' on to the side deck of Ballahoo herself.
 
Next Up  Rig the Carronades.. I plan to only rig the Breech Rope & Side Ropes that pull the sledge to the firing position.. I suspect training such a small gun as this would have been accomplished by using a Bar to lever it around rather than using Training Tackles.. Ballahoo was only a small boat after all & built out in the 'Sticks'....  Any Thoughts on this Folks ?    I can change it easily enough !
 
Thoughts & Ideas always appreciated Folks.
 
 
All-Righty Then it's Photo Time Again..
 
All The Very Best
 
Eamonn
 

Hi mates,
 
 
Well it appears as though this bit is actually completed. Thanks for all of the nice words, Like clicks, or just dropping in.
 
A special thanks to Peter and Nigel for their so helpful suggestions, made such a difference.
 
The last pic was taken before any “fixes” what was I thinking? ha ha. Learned so much about this ship since “that” installation. As I look at it now I start to laugh. At the risk of being redundant, if it had not been for MSW, I would still be in a state of confusion (;-) 
 
OK, now onto the next three sheaves. I pulled out the old ones so there are holes in the deck.
 
PS: I won't bore you with pics of the setup. I'll post when it's done.
 
PS2 2: not crazy about those Corel knighthead figures. Decided not to repaint them but leave them "used" looking hmmmm
 
Regards,
 
 
Michael

Excellent work Michael!!!!!.It is just a case of getting your head around utilizing the dials and relating them to the required measurements.You will find the processes easier and cleaner with the dedicated proxxon fishtail milling bits though.They are designed to cut downwards as well as sideways.They also only have two flutes which reduces the chance of burning the wood and generally run cooler for longer.They do last a very long time so don't workout too expensive in the long run.Another advantage is that they fit in the collets instead of using the chuck.This virtually eliminates any run out inaccuracies enabling very high precision work.Only disadvantage is they only come in three sizes so multiple passes may be required if your slot isn't the same size as one of the cutters.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Excellent work Michael!!!!!.It is just a case of getting your head around utilizing the dials and relating them to the required measurements.You will find the processes easier and cleaner with the dedicated proxxon fishtail milling bits though.They are designed to cut downwards as well as sideways.They also only have two flutes which reduces the chance of burning the wood and generally run cooler for longer.They do last a very long time so don't workout too expensive in the long run.Another advantage is that they fit in the collets instead of using the chuck.This virtually eliminates any run out inaccuracies enabling very high precision work.Only disadvantage is they only come in three sizes so multiple passes may be required if your slot isn't the same size as one of the cutters.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for all of your kind remarks, very nurturing indeed.
 
This post will be long winded, but I hope that my frustrations will help some others; I having learned so much from so many of you.
 
Well another attempt at that pesky knighthead. This time I tried to do just a lamination without any grooves, and after sanding and shaping would again try my luck with the Proxxon. Followed Nigel’s excellent “how to” lesson, and started feeling good the grooves looked to be taking their proper shapes.
 
The front side looked “ok”. Flipped it over and the grooves were all out of alignment. Hmm, then realized that my pre-shaping resulted in the piece being off square. This, off course resulted in another failure with the innocently abused Proxxon.
 
So now feeling more informed, cut a fresh piece of wood and had the Proxxon go back to work with newly gained operator knowledge. Well “I’ll be” looked as if I knew what I was doing for a change.
 
After subsequent sanding and adjusting to fit in the weather-deck hole I was able to adjust the outer shape to better match the grooves.
 
So, I’m relieved and have learned so much with this small bit, but also gained needed confidence, after four attempts Oh My!!. Now onto the others…..pieces of cake -- ha ha.
 
Cheers,
 
Michael