NMBROOK

This is a very good question Rob.Looking at Goodwin's book and pics of the builders model of Egmont(one of the few Navy board models with accurate framing),I am inclined to say that they follow the axis of the cant frames.Do remember though that the ports will appear shorter in the sheer plan as this is a side view,the hull is curving away from you.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Fabulous work Marsalv   I do like that you have fitted so many bulkheads,much better for planking than the handful on Caroline I do agree with Mark,it would be a shame to cover that great woodwork with paint.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Nigel
 
Thanks for the very prompt feedback! Think I'll do the garboard and maybe 2 other planks before posting some more photos. That way if I'm not doing something quite right (or very wrong...) then there won't be too much to redo!
 
Cheers
 
Nick

Apologies for my absence Mark Having now caught up with your log,I have to say wonderful work,she is progressing well  
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Harvey
I had to pay you a visit when i saw the photo in Latest full profile picture.I could not believe your model started as Corel's kit.Outstanding work and a real credit to you    
If you do decide to change the chain,I found Aeronaut makes the smallest available unless you raid the jewelry store.I bought mine from the model dockyard,but I imagine Cornwall model boats stock it as well.It also comes pre-blackened.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

That looks pretty good to me Nick,you have the little curl at the end just right If you were to run it to a point,then you induce plank creep up the stem,which is to be avoided with this style of planking.I would fit the garboard and then work upwards to complete the hull.The planks will look a little like a hockey stick as you work away from the garboard then start to straighten out a little as you meet up with your last plank.You are best to adopt the tape approach for the next couple,just so you can give it a good 'eyeball' before cutting the planks.They want to adopt the slight upward sweep you have on your last plank laid at the bow.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Slowly trucking right along.... fore cant frames are in and need fairing.  A lot of fairing but that's what I planned.  I'm working on cutting out and fitting the hawse timbers as this is being written.
 
Much research still going in in the background.  Probably more research than work right now...     I fully believe that Mr. Delacroix is spot on about using the Belle Poule monograph for details and rigging which is not what Hahn used.  Hahn used Le Venus which is too late in the period and things were done differently in the planking, rigging, and details area.  Le Renommee is too early with the wales, quarter galleries and stern areas as well some minor details.
 
I fully suspect that Licorne was built originally along the lines of Le Renommee per the bow, stern, wales and gallery drawings I've seen but that there was a major rebuild somewhere before she was captured as she has much of the Belle Poule features.  I'm still sorting out the odd yard dimensions which match Le Venus but not Belle Poule.  Again, this may have been part the transition period so the rigging will probably be the spar and yard dimensions per the NMM (as captured) but use the Belle Poule rigging plan as that seems more appropriate for the time frame.  I still have a long way to go before I even think about rigging, but its something that needs to be sorted out for the hull sheave placement.
 
My plan, subject to change,  is to carry on and once the hull is framed and faired, plank the exterior per the NMM/Hahn drawings with mods from Belle Poule. 
 
By all means, feel free to click the pic for a larger view.  Critiques (negative, corrective, etc.) are always welcome as I'm still trying to get a handle on this beast.
 

Minor step but for me a scary one.   Rather than put off drilling holes for the mounting bolts and pedestals, I chose to grab the beast by the horns and go for it now.  That way if something went really amiss, it would be fixable.
 
So, I set the ship under the riser on the workbench, grabbed my Dremel drill press and proceed to cobble a way.  I rotated it around, clamped and screwed it to the riser. It took a good 10 minutes of fiddling to get everything centered up and squared away.  After inserted a very small bit, I held my breath and drilled.  And it worked like a charm.  I turned the ship around and repeated for the forward hole.   Took a picture for posterity's sake. 
 
The pedestals fit nicely and the screw didn't do any damage. 
 

I decided I needed a break from half-frames.  So for a few days I've been doing some prosthetic work on my Admiral's fake leg.  So far, I haven't screwed it up even though I'm hitting it with a heat gun,  dremel and cut off wheel, and tolulene.
 
As time permits, I cleaned up the salvaged keelson along with the salvaged fore and main mast steps.  The keelson is now glued into position after tweaking the fit and the mast steps are fitted but not glued.  There's markings inside for re-fitting them into position and also marked up the exterior for drilling and fitting the pedestals.    As soon as I can figure out a way to drill them square in all dimensions (not a square hole but exactly perpendicular) I'll do it.  This beast is too big for the drill press or the mill... <sigh> 
 
Also, minimal fairing at this point on the inside of the hull.
 
Anyway... picture.  And as always, errors, omissions, and stupid mistakes, while not always intentional are subject to be commented upon by those who read this.
 

I mentioned above about how I cut gunports.   So here's how I do it.  I make no guarantees that it's the best way but it works for me. 
 
First up is a laminated frame blank (I'm using a half frame as the full frames are done).
 
 
I then rubber cement the frame plan to it and carefully cut it out.

 
I fit the frame into position and check all the reference points both against the plans and in situ using the EdT tool. After that, the reference points are etched using the scroll saw and the frame cuts are made with the saw pictured.

 
I soak the joint in 91% isopropyl and wrap in a scarp of paper towel which is also soaked in the isopropyl.

 
The joint is then wrapped in plastic wrap and secured at each end with clothes pins (pegs) so as not let the whole frame separate.

 
After doing something else for about a half an hour, I grab the frame with pliers and piece to be removed with a pair of cutters.

 
A slight pull and the piece comes out, usually cleanly. 

 
At this point, the frame is glued into place, space blocks added between the newly installed frame and the existing frame, everything clamped and the glue allowed to cure.  After curing, I double check all reference points, just in case....
 
I hope this helps someone.
 
 
 

Thanks for looking in and commenting Danny, Sam, Cabrapente, David, and Sjors.
 
Murphy apparently took a few days off (thank heavens) as things went well. 
 
Sam, if I remember, I'll do a quick photo essay when I cut the next gunport which will be later in the week.
 
I got the hull (what there is of it so far) faired out close.  It will still need work but that will come after the cant frames which is the next project.   There's still some low spots and high spots but overall, pretty close.
 
I also reshaped/reworked the rabbet so the planking will set right.   It was tedious and had me sweating blood but worth every second of it.
 
The keel has glued on and sits square and level with everything. 
 

Thanks Rusty and Grant. 
I'm firm believer in Murphy and "crap happens" so being prepared for re-do's and do-over's and repairs is part of the building process.
 
David and Sam,
Saw blades in abundance, I have.   My current favorite for this work is the one that X-acto makes that resembles a #11 blade with teeth on it.  Since the frames are laminated of two pieces (one forward, one aft) the glue line is the problem.  I'm not sure alcohol is the answer because it can weaken the joint above and below the cut.  I thought about filing out the waste area but that's time consuming, tedious, and I'm not sure I could get it exact or even close.
 
There's only 3 more gunports which are in the aft cant framing. So I'll muddle along using the current process.
 
I still will have to file/sand out the sides of each port a bit more.. but that's not bad.

Minor milepost... all the full frames have been cut, installed and spacers added.  The five broken ones have been replaced along with slapping myself upside the head when I realized two of them could have been repaired.   
 
I've started "pre-fairing" in that I'll sand it pretty close to fair except for the frames at the end, get the keel and keelson notches flat and fair, and then tweek the keel's rabbet to account for the changes the garboard strake will have to follow.  I'm also sorting out the inboard side as far as fairing.  The end frames will be faired in once the keel and keelson are installed and the cant frames are done. 
 
And yes, it continues to be a fun ride.
 

Thanks for that Adam and B.E.   Well, I hope I don't disappoint anyone and more importantly, myself..  
 
Twelve frames cut, fitted to build board (but not glued).  Reference points marked and will be re-checked after they are glued in.  One of the references is totally off as I cut it at the gunport mark and not the wale mark... argghhh.. 
 

 
 
Plan of attack on this is evolving... due to new items I've discovered.  I do want all the full frames cut and fitted before doing the rest of this.
 
1) Fit frames to keel.  Keel needs to be modified such that the area above the rabbet needs to be 5/32" instead of full width of 3/16".  I'm holding off on this as long as I can as I'm thinking I need to change the angle of the rabbet anyway.
 
2) Re-recheck reference marks and cut gunports into frames. 
 
3) Glue to build board.
 
4) Add spacers and keel.
 
5) Fair, sand, sand, sand.... and sand somemore both inside and out.
 
Then in some semblance of order, fit the sills, half-frames, hawse frames and punt.  I'm still picking apart details from La Venus such as frigates had herringbone pattern decking in the great cabin...  oy... And I'm sorting out how to remove the quarterdeck and forecastle deck clamp reference tabs for easier planking. 
 
 
 

Hi
Finally finished the hammock cranes bit of a pain to make and a milestone out of the way,
 All that is left to do is to add rope and fix the netting, must finish some deck fittings first.
The next job I keep putting off is the lanyards on the gun port lids because once done it will be hard to touch up the hull painting which I have never really been happy with.

HI
I thought its about time I do a quick update; it seems I have spent a long time building and not getting anywhere
Fitted the knees and finished painting the stern
 

 
Also fitted the emergency steering chains, But I might change the chain for smaller link chain as it doesent look right.
Have you spotted the mistake yet, not by me although i must have made many.
but the decoration on the stern is back to front like a mirror image
 

 
post more soon

Hi
The skylight
 
Started as a basic frame
 

 
Laminated the top two layers of wood with CA to help stop the wood from spliting when I file.
 

 
Drilled for the windows around the sides and then filed out.
 

 
Next I used masking tape to outline the top windows, drilled and filed to the right size
 

 
I used wood stain to colour, and for the glazing acetate sheet.
 

 
The finished skylight on the ship
 

 
If anybody has any questions please ask.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi
Just some update pictures
 
The binnacle has been fitted
I have painted the figurehead looks good on the ship, now going to store for fitting much later
 

Greeting Harvey
Well here we go with another victory, and cracking work at that. Just enjoy it . I will follow your build with interest. DAVID

Hi
This is just a quick update to the build.
After putting in more deck beams the planking of the poop deck went ok.
I still need to clean the sanding dust and give the deck a coat of varnish.
Next, I will do the sky light. and the rail with the hammock cranes.
Do not know how to do the fire buckets because on a scale of 1:98 they will be very small I do not want to leave them off
If anybody has any idea please let me know.
 

Hi
Started work on the cabins, made a basic frame and built it up from there.
I did make a mistake by putting in an extra door on each side, but managed to modify so all is good.
A little wood stain and a coat of varnish to finish off and all that is left to do is the glazing.
 
The next problem is the ships wheels, the ones that comes with the kit are too big and i can’t find any smaller ones so looks like i will have to make some.
If anybody has any questions then please ask.

I'm currently working on the quarterdeck. I have  just started making up the ten gun carriages which now need to be completed. Progress on this may be slow as I need to finish painting the hull, as well as touching up a few patches I'm unhappy with.

Hi everyone!
This is my third build, the HMS Victory.
 
I started this build many years ago and it has been stored for a long time.The kit started as a Coral but has been extensively modified. I removed all of the formers so the decks could be built up, putting in  additional details such as gun carriages, deck beams, and pillars.
 
I will continue to update as the build progresses, but for those interested in seeing more, HMS Victory and Royal Caroline photos are available at harvey-green.co.uk

Having at the moment nothing more to show because the next step is to procure the wood I need and start working to cut the hull pieces, inside this post I would like to show some images of paintings of the two previously mentioned brigs CURIEUX and LE MILAN. Good reading, Jack.
 
Figure 01 - Source National Maritime Museum
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/Curieux-02_zpse18bd0a0.jpg

Title: "Cutting out the 'Curieux' at Martinique, 3 February 1804"
The French brig sloop ‘Curieux’ was fitted out at Martinique in order to attack British interests. As she was a threat to British West Indian commerce, the British Commodore Hood gave orders for her capture. Under the command of Lieutenant Robert Carthew Reynolds four boats with 60 seamen and 12 marines set out on a moonlit night from the British ship ‘Centaur’. This meant a 20-mile row to reach the ‘Curieux’ lying under the protection of the guns of Fort Edward. 
When Reynolds’s barge came in under the stern of the ‘Curieux’ he found that, providentially, a rope ladder hung down the side. He scaled it and cut a hole in the anti-boarding nets to enable his men to pour on board. Before she was taken the French lost nearly 40 killed and wounded. The British had nine wounded and Reynolds, who was one of them, subsequently died of his wounds. On the right side of the picture the ‘Curieux’ is shown just before her capture. Her anti-boarding netting is clearly visible. The sailors can be seen loosing her sails and cutting her cable, while the guns of Fort Edward are firing. A moon shines between her masts and in the left foreground another battery is in action. 
The painting is signed and dated ‘F. Sartoruis 1805’.
Figure 02 - Source National Maritime Museum
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/Curieux-01_zps4eef5ad6.jpg

Title: "HMS Curieux captures the Dame Ernouf, 8 February 1805"
'HMS Curieux' captures the 'Dame Ernouf', 8 February 1805' by Francis Sartorius. Signed lower right.
Figure 03 - Source National Maritime Museum
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/Curieux-03_zps26efe957.jpg

Title: View of St John's Harbour, Antigua; the fleet at anchor and the 'Curieux' brig making sail with dispatches for England [12 June 1805]
The last, but seventh in order of events, in series of ten drawings (PAF5871–PAF5874, PAF5876, PAF5880–PAF5881 and PAF5883–PAF5885) of mainly lesser-known incidents in Nelson's career, apparently intended for a set of engravings. Pocock's own description of this drawing in a letter of 9 July 1810 calls it 'a view of St Johns Harbour Antigua taken on the spot by myself with the Fleet at Anchor – the "Curieux" Brig (in the foreground) making sail with dispatches for England. Here though there is no fighting I thought the anxiety and promptitude of Lord Nelson wou'd be exemplified, and with a Correct View of Antigua wou'd give the Whole [set] a Variety.' Nelson's 'Victory' is in stern view to the right of 'Curieux', beyond the intervening rowing boat. Pocock's personal knowledge and drawing(s) of Antigua of course dated from his time as a Bristol sea captain, ending about 1778, not that of the incident shown. This was during the pre-Trafalgar chase to the West Indies, in early summer 1805, where Nelson failed to find Villeneuve's Franco-Spanish Fleet, which had already sailed again for Europe. On 12 June he sent home the 'Curieux' from Antigua with dispatches, to update the Admiralty, before his fleet pursued. By chance, 'Curieux' distantly sighted and overtook the enemy near the Azores, realized they were heading for Ferrol in north-western Spain, not Cadiz, and brought that vital news back to Lord Barham at the Admiralty, ahead of Nelson's return. For the rather complex circumstances of the commissioning of these ten drawings, and Pocock's related letters, see 'View of St Eustatius with the '"Boreas"' (PAF5871). Signed by the artist and dated in the lower left. Exhibited: NMM Pocock exhib. (1975), no. 52.
Figure 04 - Source National Maritime Museum
Brick%20de%2024%20Plans/LeMilan-01_zpsea137387.jpg

Title: La Corvette Le Milan (de St Malo) pour suivie par la Fregate Angloise, L' Endymion
There are no comments on this painting. It is a hand-colored lithograph by Lemercier Bernard, Perrot Ferdinand Victor and Victor Delarue. Dimensions: 285 mm x 396 mm

Part of the answer here (apart from the good advice already given) is the kind of wood you are using. Most wood supplied with kits is far too coarse-grained for the purpose. If you look at Mr. Jacquith's photos, you can barely see any grain structure in the wood he uses. There are several species that are suitable and really nice to use for model making, including holly, pear and Castello. Suppliers like The Hobbymill (see 'sponsors' on the home page of this site) stock these and will cut them to your specs.