NMBROOK

It seems we are posting at the same time Jason Yes the structural timber will have been of Oak but decking was quite often made from cheaper,easier to obtain timber.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thanks mate    
Yes these are more 'art' than 'authentic'.They do however add a nice feature to the deck.Theory behind it stems form the two king planks on french vessels that actually act as a binder longitudinally along the deck beams. As Eamonn mentions quite a common feature of the Russian Palace style.I have a few drawings of Italian origin 'mimicking' this,but to be frank they got it all wrong and looks too over the top.Hardest thing is gauging the distance apart,I have seen some builds on the net with them close together,definitely looks more GT40 than period ship.Ummed and arrd about using them on Mordaunt,but I am having ebony frames on the gratings on the upper deck to reflect the black on the museum model so would have been too much going on.See Alex's Cumberland build,he did his in Ebony.
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

It will have to wait until Tuesday and my luck will have run out mate I shall post one in the morning as I have just returned from my Bank holiday ritual of pub and takeaway
 
kind Regards
 
Nigel

Thank you so much for your kind comments everyone! Thanks for the like also!
 
 
 
/Matti

Some seem hard but maybe easy,at least if your luck is in
 
Is it the Novik?
 
If it is,wish I put some money on euromillions now
 
Was looking at this vid on youtube the otherday 
so may be at an advantage        
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Great work mate   I love the outdoor shots and the characteristic 'vasa' sloping top on the mainmast.I also aren't getting much build time in as I now have two jobs     .I am plodding away when I get chance.
 
Kind Regards
Nigel

Your deck looks fabulous mate more than worth the time and thought you have expended on it!
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Ok Folks... Ta Daaaa the Deck is done !!     (Insert Happy Dance Here!)
 
I corrected the Asymmetry as best I could though there is one fairly obvious place which stands out, the For'ad most Port/Stbd 'nibble' in the margin plank are not in line, hopefully it will be camouflaged by Ropes from the Belaying Pins for the fore mast (all those following in my wake with a Ballahoo please keep an eye out for this Asymmetry when lining up the deck before gluing it onto the Bulkheads to begin with.. not exactly sure where it originated admittedly, but it was most likely was a result of me being a tad careless!!   though I did spot the issue way back when I placed the deck paper template I made in place so perhaps it wasn't all me..  )
Anyhoo.. I finished the deck with a scraper and sanding (it will most likely get some more later) then cleaned it off (note it isn't as dark as it appears in the photos, that is just a result of my gentle wiping with a small amount of White Spirits)
 
Next up.. the Spirketting then finish painting the insides of the Bulwarks & Gunports (two per side have to be cut to the Cap Rail !)
 
Thanks for stopping by Folks
 
Eamonn
 

I'd love to say "Correct Eamonn, over to you!"  .....but no.  By the way, that one took a fair bit of digging on my part, maybe I went the long way round.
 
Next up.  Image of ship itself is untouched and unobscured -  other than the name...don't want to make it too easy.  This old lady has an interesting tale to tell.
 

Thank you Nigel for your color informations... As I started my "career" as a model builder with the usual plastic-kits I know Tamiya very well and their colors. Thx for this idea... I was thinking about waterbased colors - but will try acrylic color before that.
 
And thanky you for your hint with the stairs...
 
Cheerio
 
Max

Hi Max
 
In actual fact the small superstructure sections that the spiral stairs run from are your 'friend' here.they mean that you don't have to plank the deck right up to the waterway as there is a small square in these corners that are covered by these.
Regarding my red,a simple question,but not a simple answer .The red was mixed using tamiya red XF 7 and black XF1.The colour was applied in very thin coats ,first a lighter mix then gradually darker to create an uneven blended appearance.It was then sprayed with matt poly and then covered in three washes of XF 84 dark iron.This was then burnished with fine steel wool to create the 'aged' appearance and a further coat of clear matt poly sprayed on.If you do decide to use the Tamiya acrylics,I recommend using their thinner.These paints don't flow and dry too quickly without using it.
Thank you for your kind words,I do agree the thought process with these models is as enjoyable as the building itself.The Panart 'instructions'.whilst better than some in the mantua group are definitely open to interpretation to make the build run a little easier.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi Max,
If I were to build this as instructions,yes I would detail this bulkhead fully before commencing the planking,things are tight in there and any extra access will help no end.Even planking the bulkhead will be easier due to the tumblehome.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Here is a small update on the added bulkheads.  They really do look nicer than the spacing provided by the kit.  I traced one of the ends of the plywood kit bulkheads and and cut a cardboard template.
 

 
Then I transferred the shape to a stack of 3 or 4 pieces of basswood and cut them out on a scroll saw.  After they were separated I would measure the space where each one was to live and cut the tails appropriately.
 

 
Since all they support are the planks, for the center of the bulkhead I just glued in a piece of basswood wide enough to stick out on either side of the oak strip.
 

 

 
All of the extra bulkheads are cut but I still have a lot of oak to bend and a whole lot of planks to cut and sand.  
 
I will do a mock up to see how caulking looks.  Surely the Vikings had something they used for waterproofing.
 
 

Bingo.. Jason ! a converted sailing ship, hence the bow !
 
Over to you Mate
 
My First Guess : SS Argo    
 
E
 
Sorry 'bout the late reply but I'm just back from X-Men !

SS Aenos, sunk in 1940 the battle of the Atlantic?

Wasn't sure mate,I have a Smit Rotterdam in the loft from a good few years back,the box had the lasercut sticker on,but only the bulkheads were lasercut,everything else was to fret out.I wonder whether all their kit's are fully lasercut now?
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Considering your photos that is a lofty goal, but each time I look at your Oseberg Viking Ship I think your ship building and wood working skills are just as good

Hi Nigel,
 
Thanks for the kind words, they mean a lot coming from you.  Your work is truly amazing.  
 
I am a better photographer than I am a model builder but I am working on it.  This website is the best thing to happen to the hobby.  Having access to the resources here as well as be able to learn from and be inspired by the artisans here is a real gift.  Thanks for looking in and I am happy that you enjoyed the log and my photographs.  

Thanks Slog, I found this a short time ago and stored it specifically...  an interesting looking boat !
 
I'll be away later for most of the afternoon, so please be patient in awaiting a reply (if it takes that long that is.. I've probably gone and picked one of the most well known ships in existence where everyone on MSW, except me, has a photo of her on their wall..   )
 
Stay Well Folks
 
Eamonn

Thanks Jason,
 
I feel guilty as my last three correct answers were obtained thanks to Jan and David providing clues to point me in the right direction.  Apologies gentlemen.
 
I am going to stick with pre-dreadnoughts but I am guessing my next picture is probably one of the easiest in the game so far as it is so distintive but just had to post it.  This has to be one of the most incredible looking warships ever! It looks awesome; definitely would be on my bucket list of must builds if it was available. (and 4 others but not the same class  )
 

Work is slowly progressing on the port side.As I have proved everything on the starboard side,this acts as a template for the port side.This has enabled me to fit the gunport frames earlier in the process to make it easier to shape the internal profile.The handy thing with the gunport design is that tweaks are easy.Some of the holes for the linings have been adjusted and boxwood veneer shims used to ensure perfect alignment when sighting down the side of the hull.I have also been able to fit the lower counter side timber earlier than before.The rather random looking pear blocks at the bow are for shaping to match the other side.The are placed to ensure adequate material to carve the shape out of.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Just a small but nevertheless important update.I am currently working on the other side but doing a little multitasking   In my last timber delivery,I had ordered some 6x4mm pear strip to see how successful it would be to bend the deck beams as apposed to cutting them.As a mentioned before these will penetrate the sides of the inner hull 'shell' and in effect be solidly anchored at the ends.I made a simple jig up to clamp the thoroughly soaked Pear strip in(tip here,soak until the pear no longer wants to float).I deliberately made the jig for double the camber to allow for some springback.Not only this but it is better to overbend and straighten rather than underbend.The radius was calculated using the formula shown in the pic.I thought i would include this as to my knowledge it hasn't been posted before.I clamped two strips in the jig at the same time on top of one another,Any more and it would start to make too big a difference to the radius.The question of whether these beams would be scarphed in the middle is in abeyance and I have posted another thread regarding this.Even if these will be scarphed,I thought it necessary to put the radius in before tapering as the bending properties would not be consistent with a tampered section. 
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have now fitted all the upper gunport cills.These have been faired off flush inside and out.The counter side timber has also been fitted,but the lower hull is still to shape at a later date.There is quite a bit of difference between kit and builders model in this area.Franklin states in his book that the stern balcony actually has a grated deck.The carvings below the balcony act as knees to support this deck and to a lesser extent the stern structure.This is not easily visible in pictures but after enlarging the NMM pics as much as possible it became clear how this construction worked.
This is a far as I am taking this side for now,work will commence on the port side.There a still some small round gunports to create for the poopdeck,but I am not confident to the actual finished level of this deck at the moment so they will be added a little later.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

I have completed the basic 'inner' hull structure to the starboard side.As I am waiting for a timber delivery I thought I may as weel sort out the lower gunport linings.After studying Euromodels drawings and also pics of the builders model,it became apparent there were differences not just in the position of gunports but also the height  and shape of the top of the hull sides.Because I want to reflect the design of the NMM model I would have to address these areas.The most notable fact is there is a gunport right forward on the museum model that is missing on Euromodels representation.Looking at the design you would probably only get a musket in there,but it is there nevertheless.Also the stern galleries are very different and you will notice the gunports are close up to this.This basically meant starting from scratch and the bulk of the ports were moved aft slightly.An additional port would then fit in at the beakhead,but also the first and last port on the main gun deck are spaced differently.My revised design reflects this. 
There is a three page article in John Franklin's book covering the builder's model which gives the exact gunport sizes and wale scantlings and spacings.The Euromodel kit design shows upper wales that are too small in comparison.In order to get things to work the top edge of the hull has been increased in height to compensate for this.You will notice the additional pear laminations on the top edge,the bulkheads are too short to run to the top.The lower of the pear strips has been 'dowelled' with 0.7mm copper wire into every pear upright.This has resulted in an incredibly strong hull wall even before planking.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Not a very exciting update today,however my experiment has been a success.I have been debating about caulking techniques and despite using a pencil for longer than I care to mention,it never looks as good as the black paper route.However after watching Dr Mike's dvd explaining that black paper prevents proper glue bond strength,himself using cheap white paper and dying it black,I wanted to find an alternative with a bit less faff Having to visit town today for other reasons  I did stumble upon black tissue paper.I thought this would still allow proper penetration of the glue,but would it be easy to work with?I adopted worse case scenario for the test and cut some planks roughly(not even changing to a fine blade )on the table saw.Smearing one edge of these with alaphatic and placing them on the tissue edge on.Having left to dry for a hour(would really leave overnight in practice) and then cutting the tissue with a new scalpel blade close on the underside and a little above the face side,separated the planks.These were then glued to a sheet of ply.Two hours later this was scraped and sanded back.Again I would leave overnight but I was being deliberately rough for the trial.Anyway complete success.No issue with the tissue paper wanting to drag out of the joints as it was fully impregnated with glue and razor sharp black(not greyish you get with the pencil) lines.The only imperfections are from the rough edges of the planks.In reality these would be smooth .I wanted to crack this dilemma as this technique will be used on the whole build which includes the scarph joints in the keel and the hull planking so strength is important.A couple of pics but the difference between this and pencil isn't truly conveyed with my iphone camera.
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel