NMBROOK
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NMBROOK reacted to Old Collingwood in HMS Greyhound by Old Collingwood - Corel
Hi all Happy New Year,
i have been carrying on with the hull work shaping the bearding line especialy around the bowsprit til - "Crack" the bowsprit snapped away were the grove was for the bearding line, so i decided as it was off to leave it that way and tackle it as two seperate jobs, but i cut away and made a joining area first, i have also been working on the rear of the hull with a bit of planking and shaping and will do the cutout for the rudder post arrangement, but question do i make the hole in the hull for the top of the rudder post round or fan like?.
Anyway here a few pics in b&w because my camera processes better that way for some reason..?
C.
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NMBROOK reacted to Old Collingwood in HMS Greyhound by Old Collingwood - Corel
Seasons greetings to all, i have been moving on to the bottom keel section and decided to cut out the bearding line for the garboard plank, i know i should have done this while flat but i have found having the ribs in palce, act as a good guide for the groove, i was abit puzzled over the correct size/placement of the garboard plank, but i decided on the taper ending on the second rib before the sharp curve upto the front of the forecastle.
I also decided on a slope at the keel post insted of a slot (almost like something we call here a "ha ha") its an invisible drop when viewed from one side, this will help the hull planks to sit against the keel post at roughly the same thickness.
Heres two pics showing this stage...
C.
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Beef Wellington in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
It has been a while since I visited your log Jason due to not being around much of late.I must say this is one of the cleanest,sharpest kit based builds I have seen.I am also an advocate of Tamiya dark iron.It also works well with a little very light drybrushing of flat aluminium.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Thank you OC...
Two ropes lifting the fore yard are ended with a violin block above this cut off. This violin block is fixed to the knight placed under the forecastle deck by a rope passing through that small cut out.
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi,
Thank you; Jason and who visits and who likes...
I can produce only very limited updates...
Homemade blocks of 4 mm, work on bowsprit mast, blocks, shrouds, some rigging lines...
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Thank you Michael, Mike and who liked...
A small update.
I do not know if I've done the right thing about the ropes of the anchors but there isn't any guide on the plans, in fact there isn't any rope in this area... It's my decision, right or wrong... :-/
Grating is now on its own place...
And there are somewhere some few blocks fixed on the masts...
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Thank you Zappto and for the likes...
A minor update
Home made vs kit supply...
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Many thanks, Mike and Mike (mikiek),
and who have liked the posts...
Now I need to repeat all the way for many blocks that have to be tied with a rope of 0,5 mm.
For the blocks that have to be tied with a rope thicker than 0,5 mm. I must follow the conventional way.
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
And to tighten the rope around the block, I have pulled the end (the blue arrow).
Then I made a knot just near the mast.
Done...
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
First, the ring for the mast have to be tightened around the mast...
I have pulled the end (the blue arrow) to tighten the rope around the mast (the red arrow).
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
I have wrapped 5 times
and I have removed the two frontmost thootpicks and pulled gently at two end (blue arrows)
and two rings (red rings); for the mast (at the left) - for the block (at the right)
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Now,
The attempt for the second block
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Hi,
Thank you for your visits, comments and likes.
I decided to fix some blocks to the bowsprit mast.
I have to smulate rope wrapping. With a 4 mm block it's to difficult to bind a block to the mast as in the real ship...
I post some photos showing how I try something...
For the first block it' s done with success...
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NMBROOK reacted to Ferit in Frigate Berlin by Ferit KUTLU - Corel - 1/40 - 1674
Update...
It's crude now and not glued...
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NMBROOK got a reaction from CaptainSteve in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Excellent work Michael.Two suggestions re lanterns.One is to cast them with the LED inside using clear casting resin.Other option would be to buy larger LEDS and file to shape.The body is clear epoxy I believe so should shape and polish with files and wet and dry abrasive.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from Old Collingwood in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
It has been a while since I visited your log Jason due to not being around much of late.I must say this is one of the cleanest,sharpest kit based builds I have seen.I am also an advocate of Tamiya dark iron.It also works well with a little very light drybrushing of flat aluminium.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Jason by Beef Wellington - Caldercraft - 1:64 - Artois-class frigate modified from HMS Diana 1794
It has been a while since I visited your log Jason due to not being around much of late.I must say this is one of the cleanest,sharpest kit based builds I have seen.I am also an advocate of Tamiya dark iron.It also works well with a little very light drybrushing of flat aluminium.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from popeye the sailor in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Excellent work Michael.Two suggestions re lanterns.One is to cast them with the LED inside using clear casting resin.Other option would be to buy larger LEDS and file to shape.The body is clear epoxy I believe so should shape and polish with files and wet and dry abrasive.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK got a reaction from EJ_L in Santisima Trinidad by md1400cs – FINISHED - OcCre - 1/90 - cross-section - bashed
Excellent work Michael.Two suggestions re lanterns.One is to cast them with the LED inside using clear casting resin.Other option would be to buy larger LEDS and file to shape.The body is clear epoxy I believe so should shape and polish with files and wet and dry abrasive.
Kind Regards
Nigel
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Zaragoza by marktiedens - FINISHED - OcCre - scale 1:46
Thanks Bob! While I`m here,the bow entry doors are done. They were made sanding the edges of 3x3mm timber & glueing them together. The hinges were kit supplied items. There was nothing behind the doors to keep them in place,so I added a strip of wood on the inside to glue them to.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Zaragoza by marktiedens - FINISHED - OcCre - scale 1:46
Hi everyone - the hull has now been finished with polyurethane. There is a bit of variation of the color of the wood once the finish was applied, but that`s ok - adds a bit of character.
While the finish was drying,I made up the timberheads on the forecastle railing & they were pinned & glued in place.
Mark
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NMBROOK reacted to marktiedens in Nuestra Senora del Pilar de Zaragoza by marktiedens - FINISHED - OcCre - scale 1:46
Hi everyone - more progress! Fist, the anchor davits were made from the supplied wood - the simulated sheaves were formed with a small round file after drilling the holes. Then the openings were made in the bulwarks & the davits were glued in place along with the knees. Next, I thought it would be a good time to do the roundhouses. The parts list showed them as pre-formed pieces,but darned if I could find them,so I made them from a walnut dowel cut in half & added some brass eyelets from the fabric shop. Finally the mouldings were added - they were made from some leftover brass moulding from another build
The caprails were then made from the supplied wood(sapelli). Since this wood is 2x12mm it was pretty much impossible to bend around the tight curves. The tightly curved areas were done by cutting small pieces to go around the curves,then after a lot of filing & sanding the joints they were painted black. You can see the joints in the close-up,but at arm`s length they look just fine. I think they pass the running horse test.
Mark
Mark
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