Landrotten Highlander

What vessel is this, Savo?
 

Is there a possibility of staining the gun ports red before you plank?

Thanks for putting this thread on.
For thosee who decide to paint with brushes, here is a handy tip when using water-based paints (or paints that can be successfully thinned by water, such as the Valejo paints):  in orde to preserve your brush, use a shallow saucer or dish with a puddle of water in the middle.  Place your brushes on the edge of the saucer / dish with the hairs submerged in the water.  That way when you do apply paint the water will aidd in filling the spaces between the hairs with paint much quicker, and at the same time allow for the tip of the brush to remain in shape for much longer.
When finished, wash out your brushes with water, rubb the excess water off on a paper towel, then store the brushes HAIRS UP and let dry naturally.
This technique works well if you use your brushes regularly.  There is a tip on storing your brushes long term, but I need to double check before I post it here (do not want to mix up tips for oil paint with acrylics - both media are very different in nature and application, and both require different techniques to ensure longevity of your brushes).
 
Hope this helps

Another option is to have te rope pulled through a lengthy basin of dye.  Your set-up would look something like this:  a shallow long basin (such as for instance one of thos long plastic trays for window ledge planting) partially filled with your dye.  The spool on one end, a rope goes underneath a metallic/plastic/wooden 'finger' that pushes it below the dye level, runs just above the bottom of the tray, passes a second 'finger' before it is pulled out.
Perhaps using some tehnoLego manufacture a large-ish spool to automate the pulling of your rope (needs to run at slow speed, so the rope takes approx 3 minutes to run from one end of the tray to the other end).  The spool would function the same manner as those mecahnised anchor things (my brain is not working properly this morning, cannot recall the name of the thing) that is used to lift the anchor, i.e. the anchor chain runs 3 times around the thing before it is taken off again, thus the chain is not wound up on it)
 
That way all you have to do (once it is running) is to take the rope as it leaves your spool and hang it up on the hooks in the ceiling.

I think Druxey and MTaylor are on to it.
From my days learning to work the lathe (admittently, many decades ago, and in steel rather than wood) we always aligne our boring too in the horizontal plane (so not vertical as you are doing) and had to have the tailstock running in the opposite direction than for outside turning.
 
The benefit in this setup is also that it is much easier to include a counter pressure to your cutting edge (in other words, if you have tube sticking out a long way, the moment your tool touches the inside of the tube it will always attempt to push the tube out of alignment, leading to an oval shape, rather than a perfect round one - having something gently pushing against the outside will counteract this).

No problem.  It is true I have plenty of industry experience but in no way do I consider myself an expert.  As a matter of fact, to increase my knowledge I am currently enrolled in an MSc Advanced Manufacturing: Technology and Systems.  It is amazing the quantum leaps that have happened since I left college, including cold forging turbine shafts from a small billet - the machine treats the steel *** if it were plasticine (and I hope I do not need to expand on the theoretical knowledge behind this technology, it is worthy of an undergraduate course on its own)

I think somewhere in two opposing corners should be sufficient. 
Any difference in stretching of the rubber will be due to differences in tightening the two halves. No need to go too close to your cavity, as then any stretching of rubber will lead to deformation of the cavity itself (so you could have a banana-shaped gun, instead of one where the two halves are slightly misaligned).
The purpose of these pins is to align the moud halves at the same spot every time, then try to keep the same format of tightening for all subsequent pours.
 
Personally, if your test is successful and you wish to use this technique on your good one I would take the brass template gun and place it in the mould cavities. Then tighten the two halves using a spare bit of wood so you can drill the necessary holes through this wood (I think two is a minimum, but no more than one hole in each corner).  Then for pouring your material, only use pins that are slightly shorte than the overall thickness of your mould so you do not risk misaligning the rubber by forcing the wood over the pins.
 
Again, I have no personal experience with this technique, but what I describe above is consistent with my observations and training in Industry relating to injection moulding and hot forming - the guiding pins are at the edge of the mould, and only so close as so not to cause undue deformation of the mould block - which requires both complex calculations and extensive experience when designing dies for hot forging (even though the deformation is within tight tolerances, it does happen).

I have no experience with rubber moulds, but have worked in the manufacturing industry for over 2 decades.
Is it possible to drill a minimum of 2 holes in the corners to which you would then insert a dowel?  Have it fixed in the bottom half of your mould, then the top half will slide over the pin.  This should increase repeatability of alignment (this method is used fron injection moulding to hot forging).

might work if you use a plastic brush.  The steel or copper brushes would imho be prone to create undesirable lines.

I do not know if this system would work with this kind of carving, but I would like to share my experience with carving used in Bonsai trees.
 
Sometimes you want to show a branch that has died back a long time ago in your design.  The Japanese name is called 'jin' (pronounce like the drink gin).  To do this you need to remove the old bark - which can be particularly troublesome if the branch is a real dead on, not a living one you kill of to make it look dead.
I use very sharp knives to remove this - similar to what Chuck has been showing with his #11 blade.  Obviously you do not wish to see the cut-marks (otherwise it looks artificial, not natural as is desired).
 
To remove the obvious signs, I use the same knife, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface so that only a very narrow point of the cutting edge is actually touching the branch (in this case carved piece).  Moving this sideways - under very gentle pressure - will even off the edges of the cut marks, thus giving the look of a smooth surface.
 
Will take some time, but I think it will give a very smooth surface - after all, is this not a technique used for scraping deck and hull?
 
Just my two cents, now I will have my wee dram.
Slainte
Peter

Hi Mike,
I got a bit confused as to why the ailerons (i.e. the control surfaces on the wing tips) are connected to the rudder, so I did a (very short) bit of searching on google.
This picture is the closest I could find to a restauration of a Sopwith camel.
 


 
I have labelled the individual controls.  As you can see, the Rudder controls are attached to the rudder itself, the Elevator controls are a closed loop system, apparently attached to 2 pulleys just above the rudder controls.  It is not 100% clear, but I think that the rudder pedal can rotate, whyle the pulleys are attached in a fixed position on the outer shaft of the rudder assembly (a bit like fitting a light on your bycicle, you do not attach it to the shaft that connects your steering bar with the front wheel, but with the shaft housing).
 
As I understand it, the elevators cables are not shown in this picture.  They should be attached to the grey 'handle' seen just above the 1st ''R' from 'Rudder-Right', and are also in a closed loop system.
 
Please, anybody,  feel free to correct me if I am wrong in my perceptions.
Hope this helps,
L.H.
 
P.S. I have re-read your previous post, and my reason for confusion is your use of 'tail aileron' to indicate the 'elevator'.  My bad.
 
P.P.S. Link to the pictures above: http://www.johnsshawaviation.co.uk/wordpress/sopwith-camel-f1-2/sopwith-camel-reconstruction/sopwith-camel-metalwork-parts/sopwith-camel-construction-upper-wings/

Great, can't wait

What vessel is this, Savo?
 

I do not know anything about the number of shot lockers, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that the ships mates (young lads - kids, really) were used to haul shot manually from the locker and delivering them to the required batteries: i.e.  Jimmy lad would go down into the shot locker, Wullie lad would lower a bag for Jimmy lad to fill, then Wullie lad would bring the bag to the appropriate gun and run back to get more shot from Jimmy lad.
I am assuming that something similar was done while loading the shot into the locker: rather than dumping them from height (particulalry for the first layer) they would be lowered for one lad to place them properly inside the locker.  Dropping them from a height would always result in damage to the floor, and since this is so close to the keel it would be very difficult (and hence expensive) to repair.
 
I would also think that shot for smaller guns and carronades would be stored into the hold, as such ammunition would be needed whenever they landed somewhere so it needs to be really accessible.
 
Looking forward to hear other thoughts on this.

might work if you use a plastic brush.  The steel or copper brushes would imho be prone to create undesirable lines.

I do not know if this system would work with this kind of carving, but I would like to share my experience with carving used in Bonsai trees.
 
Sometimes you want to show a branch that has died back a long time ago in your design.  The Japanese name is called 'jin' (pronounce like the drink gin).  To do this you need to remove the old bark - which can be particularly troublesome if the branch is a real dead on, not a living one you kill of to make it look dead.
I use very sharp knives to remove this - similar to what Chuck has been showing with his #11 blade.  Obviously you do not wish to see the cut-marks (otherwise it looks artificial, not natural as is desired).
 
To remove the obvious signs, I use the same knife, hold the blade perpendicular to the surface so that only a very narrow point of the cutting edge is actually touching the branch (in this case carved piece).  Moving this sideways - under very gentle pressure - will even off the edges of the cut marks, thus giving the look of a smooth surface.
 
Will take some time, but I think it will give a very smooth surface - after all, is this not a technique used for scraping deck and hull?
 
Just my two cents, now I will have my wee dram.
Slainte
Peter

not quite.   I study Advanced Manufacturing, and this volume came a bi too latee to build it into a 3D model so I can use additive manufacturing techniques to build her

On my wishlist too.  Currently finishing a MSc at University (going back after 25+yrs working was no doddle), then completing the 'man cave' before warming up to such a project.
 
 
..... Doesn't hurt to buy the book in the mean time, though

Thanks for putting this thread on.
For thosee who decide to paint with brushes, here is a handy tip when using water-based paints (or paints that can be successfully thinned by water, such as the Valejo paints):  in orde to preserve your brush, use a shallow saucer or dish with a puddle of water in the middle.  Place your brushes on the edge of the saucer / dish with the hairs submerged in the water.  That way when you do apply paint the water will aidd in filling the spaces between the hairs with paint much quicker, and at the same time allow for the tip of the brush to remain in shape for much longer.
When finished, wash out your brushes with water, rubb the excess water off on a paper towel, then store the brushes HAIRS UP and let dry naturally.
This technique works well if you use your brushes regularly.  There is a tip on storing your brushes long term, but I need to double check before I post it here (do not want to mix up tips for oil paint with acrylics - both media are very different in nature and application, and both require different techniques to ensure longevity of your brushes).
 
Hope this helps

Might be helpful to have a link in this blog, since as a follower I am getting notifications for this thread, which helps me manage my time a bit better.
And a HATE missing out on the beginning of hte build blog.....

Are these made out of card stock, or wood?

Hi Doris,
as has been said before, amazing work.
Also, Thank You very much for this tutorial, I am sure I will be looking at it again when I do similar work on my models.
Slainte ghu mhath
L.H.

Featibul

Try these.  Have not bought from them yet, but the feedback I managed to find seeme generally positive.
https://www.arkowood-lossburg.de/shop/brettchen/buchsbaum-brettchen-50-x-500-mm/

you should go into politics .....