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Landrotten Highlander

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About Landrotten Highlander

  • Birthday 03/31/1970

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  1. welcome, and congratulations with your desire to building your (first) wooden kit. Someone once said: 'If your dreams don't scare you, you don't dream big enough.' Moving out of your comfort zone is never easy, but once you realise that by doning so you are enriching your life, it becomes enjoyable while remaining somewhat scary. Feel free to ask questions, and make sure you take plenty of pictures along the way - they will be great help when asking questions as well as being a momento for when you discuss your (finished) model with your friends/family.
  2. I started with kits but went over to the dark side (scratch building), but for this one - the HMS Victory at 1:64 - I will reconsider, even though it is the 'wrong' scale, as my builds are 1:48 or 1:32
  3. What scale wil this kit be? And will the detailing be close to the open structure rendering as in post #2?
  4. Given the fact that the Germans were working on a concept of a jet fighter, I think it is entirely possible that some foreward thinking engineer thought that perhaps these things will one day be used on ships?
  5. Good point @Ondras71 is making. When I build a kit like that, I make sure the top of the front strengthening piece is situated just underneath the level of the false deck - that usually gives me the correct beard line.
  6. Another option is to have te rope pulled through a lengthy basin of dye. Your set-up would look something like this: a shallow long basin (such as for instance one of thos long plastic trays for window ledge planting) partially filled with your dye. The spool on one end, a rope goes underneath a metallic/plastic/wooden 'finger' that pushes it below the dye level, runs just above the bottom of the tray, passes a second 'finger' before it is pulled out. Perhaps using some tehnoLego manufacture a large-ish spool to automate the pulling of your rope (needs to run at slow speed, so the rope takes approx 3 minutes to run from one end of the tray to the other end). The spool would function the same manner as those mecahnised anchor things (my brain is not working properly this morning, cannot recall the name of the thing) that is used to lift the anchor, i.e. the anchor chain runs 3 times around the thing before it is taken off again, thus the chain is not wound up on it) That way all you have to do (once it is running) is to take the rope as it leaves your spool and hang it up on the hooks in the ceiling.
  7. stunnimg work, pitty I can't find one for myself as Da Vinci is one those that inspire me....
  8. Pulling up a chair, as this model is on my wishlist as well - and in the scale I want.
  9. I think Druxey and MTaylor are on to it. From my days learning to work the lathe (admittently, many decades ago, and in steel rather than wood) we always aligne our boring too in the horizontal plane (so not vertical as you are doing) and had to have the tailstock running in the opposite direction than for outside turning. The benefit in this setup is also that it is much easier to include a counter pressure to your cutting edge (in other words, if you have tube sticking out a long way, the moment your tool touches the inside of the tube it will always attempt to push the tube out of alignment, leading to an oval shape, rather than a perfect round one - having something gently pushing against the outside will counteract this).
  10. Hi All, an article in the Guardian regarding the find of an Egyptian Vessel as described by the Greek historian Herodotus. https://www.theguardian.com/science/2019/mar/17/nile-shipwreck-herodotus-archaeologists-thonis-heraclion There is also a book available regarding the same ubject: https://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/ship-17-a-late-period-egyptian-ship-from-thonis-heracleion.html

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