Landrotten Highlander

Another option is to have te rope pulled through a lengthy basin of dye. Your set-up would look something like this: a shallow long basin (such as for instance one of thos long plastic trays for window ledge planting) partially filled with your dye. The spool on one end, a rope goes underneath a metallic/plastic/wooden 'finger' that pushes it below the dye level, runs just above the bottom of the tray, passes a second 'finger' before it is pulled out. Perhaps using some tehnoLego manufacture a large-ish spool to automate the pulling of your rope (needs to run at slow speed, so the rope takes approx 3 minutes to run from one end of the tray to the other end). The spool would function the same manner as those mecahnised anchor things (my brain is not working properly this morning, cannot recall the name of the thing) that is used to lift the anchor, i.e. the anchor chain runs 3 times around the thing before it is taken off again, thus the chain is not wound up on it) That way all you have to do (once it is running) is to take the rope as it leaves your spool and hang it up on the hooks in the ceiling.

stunnimg work, pitty I can't find one for myself as Da Vinci is one those that inspire me....

Pulling up a chair, as this model is on my wishlist as well - and in the scale I want.

I think Druxey and MTaylor are on to it. From my days learning to work the lathe (admittently, many decades ago, and in steel rather than wood) we always aligne our boring too in the horizontal plane (so not vertical as you are doing) and had to have the tailstock running in the opposite direction than for outside turning. The benefit in this setup is also that it is much easier to include a counter pressure to your cutting edge (in other words, if you have tube sticking out a long way, the moment your tool touches the inside of the tube it will always attempt to push the tube out of alignment, leading to an oval shape, rather than a perfect round one - having something gently pushing against the outside will counteract this).

Hi All, an article in the Guardian regarding the find of an Egyptian Vessel as described by the Greek historian Herodotus. https://www.theguardian.com/science/2019/mar/17/nile-shipwreck-herodotus-archaeologists-thonis-heraclion There is also a book available regarding the same ubject: https://www.oxbowbooks.com/oxbow/ship-17-a-late-period-egyptian-ship-from-thonis-heracleion.html

No problem. It is true I have plenty of industry experience but in no way do I consider myself an expert. As a matter of fact, to increase my knowledge I am currently enrolled in an MSc Advanced Manufacturing: Technology and Systems. It is amazing the quantum leaps that have happened since I left college, including cold forging turbine shafts from a small billet - the machine treats the steel *** if it were plasticine (and I hope I do not need to expand on the theoretical knowledge behind this technology, it is worthy of an undergraduate course on its own)

I think somewhere in two opposing corners should be sufficient. Any difference in stretching of the rubber will be due to differences in tightening the two halves. No need to go too close to your cavity, as then any stretching of rubber will lead to deformation of the cavity itself (so you could have a banana-shaped gun, instead of one where the two halves are slightly misaligned). The purpose of these pins is to align the moud halves at the same spot every time, then try to keep the same format of tightening for all subsequent pours. Personally, if your test is successful and you wish to use this technique on your good one I would take the brass template gun and place it in the mould cavities. Then tighten the two halves using a spare bit of wood so you can drill the necessary holes through this wood (I think two is a minimum, but no more than one hole in each corner). Then for pouring your material, only use pins that are slightly shorte than the overall thickness of your mould so you do not risk misaligning the rubber by forcing the wood over the pins. Again, I have no personal experience with this technique, but what I describe above is consistent with my observations and training in Industry relating to injection moulding and hot forming - the guiding pins are at the edge of the mould, and only so close as so not to cause undue deformation of the mould block - which requires both complex calculations and extensive experience when designing dies for hot forging (even though the deformation is within tight tolerances, it does happen).

I got this book in the original German language, and am enjoying learning about all the facts that have been uncovered. Highly recommended. p.s. if you have issues purchasing this book ,send an email via the website or a PM to Schiffebastler to sort this out. Probably a simple fix that has to be solved at the website template (may not have been tested properly when set up - happens more often than not these days)

I have no experience with rubber moulds, but have worked in the manufacturing industry for over 2 decades. Is it possible to drill a minimum of 2 holes in the corners to which you would then insert a dowel? Have it fixed in the bottom half of your mould, then the top half will slide over the pin. This should increase repeatability of alignment (this method is used fron injection moulding to hot forging).

Perhaps this is the case for you, but my notifications has 43 pages worth, and I have read them all. Before the forum upgrade I had the habbit of deleting the notifications I have read (kept is easier for me to keep track of what unread replies there were on the topics I follow), now they just appear to be stored on some file that has no purpose for me (and in my opinion only leads to unnecessarily stored wasted data). Wil check if there is something I can do in my settings to get rid of them.

looking forward to the 4rth edition of the book

Where can we find this book? I would very much like to build this model mysef. Shows the difference between an English (HMS Anson) and French (Le Fleuron) vessel of similar size.

Lime of Sulpher - a product used to blacken copper. Best done outdoors, asit stinks to high heaven.

Here is a blog of somebody who made 2 types of your ship Both of them are painted black, but with some minor colour differences on the inside of the ship. I do not know if black is historically the more correct choice, but I was thinking a red or a blue could look nice?

Hi chuck, will you let me know when you have stocked up on the kit, and when you are able to ship across the pond again? I am now entering a very busy period with the Uni and might not have time to follow up on a day-to-day business - and I HATE to miss out on the kit for a 3rd time