ca.shipwright

Chris,
You will love you new shop. Lighting and dust collection are critical as already stated. I was looking at you tool layout and have a couple of recommendations.
 
Your Jim Byrnes tools all use the stock the long way. They should align with the long edge of the table. Using the saw against the wall will cause you problems- not enough room for the runout. Same problem will exist with the thickness sander. The run-out will go into the oscillating sander.
 
I find like any table saw, I use the Byrnes saw from the end of my bench so I can push the stock through. The thickness sander is a pull through machine and is offset from my saw.
 
Take a look at post #41 to see what I mean.
 
As for buying a 10" table saw, a contractor's saw is all you need. Don't get a floor model unless you are going to use it and store it in the garage. This tool makes an awful mess; not something I would use in my boatyard. As for a thickness planer,
you will only need it if you buy rough stock. If you buy S2S (surfaced 2 sides) milled lumber, the table saw will do the job of squaring up the stock.
 
As an alternative, see if the local schools have a woodworking class and they will probably more than happy to help out if needed. A cabinet or millwork shop for the same.
 
I hope some of this helps.
 
Regards

Chris,
You can build that 36x96 table with a 4x8 sheet of birch plywood and six 96" 2x4s. Put a coat of Minwax Polyurethane on it and your ready to go. Cost about $75 total.
Lowes or the Depot will rip the ply to 36". The extra 12 " becomes the shelf underneath. Put the savings into more Jim Byrnes tools.
If you're interested  I can give you a detailed how to do this.
 
Regards

Bob,
I'm sorry. I was referring to my scroll saw. The shop vac is a Lowes 8 gallon, I use the bag as it keeps the blowback down compared to the filter sleeve that you also use.

It's an old Delta that I bought about 15 years ago.

Here is my dust collection system for my shop tools. It consists of 1" PVC schedule 40 pipe, ball valves at each machine that can be opened or closed. and a 8 gallon Shop Vac. All the joints are press fitted, not glued which allows for rearrangement when needed.
 
The ball valves on all the machines except for the one I am operating are closed. This keeps the suction in the line strong. It is no bother since  I only use one machine at a time. The Shop Vac resides outside the door of the shop to keep the noise down.
 
This is an efficient flexible inexpensive system.
 
Hope you find this useful
 
Regards

Greetings,
The first update. Heard back from Mantua Models today. It seems that the quote that I originally received for 65 Euros was "a fake mail." Today they quoted me 137 Euros which included 47 Euro in postage. I thanked them for their prompt response, politely declined, they refunded by PayPal payment immediately, and it was off to the wood store where I got all I needed for $41.00
 
Now it's time to trace and fabricate the 16 parts for the hull. Good thing I saved those templates! Not so bad, I could use some wood time in conjunction with all the Endeavour rigging to be done.
 
Regards,

After many years, several models, and in health and in sickness, I have decided to resume the HMS Victory. This log is based on the practicum by Bob Hunt. For those of you not familiar with Bob's work, this is a total kit bash involving completely finishing the main gun deck and aft cabins and replacing kit supplied wood with exotic wood which I mill myself. The primary source is the AOS HMS Victory by John McKay. And thanks to my wonderful First Lord of the Admiralty, I am also the proud owner of Arthur Bugler's HMS Victory, Building, Restoration and Repair. as well as books by Alan McGowen, and Neppon Longridge.   To make a long story short, I worked up to planking the starboard side down to the waterline where the copper plates began. Not being very happy with the result, I ripped everything out back down to the bulkheads and center keel. And, then I did it again. Needless to say the bulkheads' profiles were pretty well shot by now, and beyond salvage. Very discouraged, to say the least. My skills were just not ready to tackle this monster build. So, the Vicki went on the shelf.

Along the way, I found I was hypersensitive to Ebony. This was more discouragement as all of the Victory blacking that was black was to be installed with ebony as were the rudder sternpost and stem. Ebony can be toxic both as a topical and respiratory allergen. With ebony out of the question, I tried several ways to "ebonize" wood, but, until a few days ago, nothing came out very satisfactory. I was reading on one of the wood workers' forums about using India ink, which I had previously tried with poor results. The solution- no pun intended- is to use an archival grade, acid free India ink. So I bought a jug. I took some boxwood strips, which is what I am planking with, and put two coats on with a paint brush. Let them dry, wiped them down with a t-shirt and then applied a coat of solvent based Wipe-on-Poly. This looks like it may be the solution. I will know more when I try to do the paint with wood using a glued-up split color plank tomorrow. More on this to follow.

In the interim, I asked to purchase a complete set of the laser cut plywood hull pieces from Mantua in Italy. I am waiting to hear from them on Monday. If they don't want to sell me the set, I will just suck it up and cut them myself on the band saw and scroll saw and finish them on the oscillating sander.   The good news is the hoarder that I am, I have all of the templates needed through Chapter 5 cut out of copies made on manila file folders.

Regards to all

E J
This is probably the best out there
 
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=19606292744&searchurl=kn%3DMasting%2Band%2BRigging%2Bof%2BEnglish%2BShips%2Bof%2BWar%2B1625-1860%26sts%3Dt%26sortby%3D17

E J
This is probably the best out there
 
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=19606292744&searchurl=kn%3DMasting%2Band%2BRigging%2Bof%2BEnglish%2BShips%2Bof%2BWar%2B1625-1860%26sts%3Dt%26sortby%3D17

Books on ships are like tools- you can never have to many.

Books on ships are like tools- you can never have to many.

Books on ships are like tools- you can never have to many.

Books on ships are like tools- you can never have to many.

Old age, the eyes are the second thing to go, requires me to sell my kits in the smaller scales.
 
I am selling the following:
 
MS Brig Niagara $225 SOLD
MS Syren $225 SOLD
 
Both are Blue Boxed and mint.
 
Actual shipping costs to be added.
 
I am also selling the Corel la Couronne 1:100, several years old but complete with a dirty box.  $350 plus actual shipping. Includes a copy of La Couronne 1636 by Vincenzo Lusci. It's in Italian but the pictures are great. SOLD
 
Shipping will be USPS Priority Mail.
 
I wish I could build them, but it's no longer possible.

The late Frank Mastini, a master modeler and author developed a chair for working high on the model
 
Take an old wooden captains dining room chair, even the armrest all around and nail a board  across the arms toward the rear to sit on. Your feet will stay on the seat of the chair. This will raise you up a good 8-10 inches depending on the chair. You can also rest you elbows just behind your knee for steadiness.
 
Regards

JJ
Very nice indeed. I will follow your build with interest. I too have a Victory that has been on hiatus for several years and I am about ready to begin again as I rig my HMB Endeavour.
Regards

JJ
Very nice indeed. I will follow your build with interest. I too have a Victory that has been on hiatus for several years and I am about ready to begin again as I rig my HMB Endeavour.
Regards

JJ
Very nice indeed. I will follow your build with interest. I too have a Victory that has been on hiatus for several years and I am about ready to begin again as I rig my HMB Endeavour.
Regards

The late Frank Mastini, a master modeler and author developed a chair for working high on the model
 
Take an old wooden captains dining room chair, even the armrest all around and nail a board  across the arms toward the rear to sit on. Your feet will stay on the seat of the chair. This will raise you up a good 8-10 inches depending on the chair. You can also rest you elbows just behind your knee for steadiness.
 
Regards

EJ,
I can't believe how fast you are building this ship. I'm at 18 months and just starting the rigging on the Endeavour; and. the la Couronne is a much more complicated build.

EJ,
You can buy one of those cheap plastic lazy susans. Or, you may find the bearing ring at the Home Depot or Lowes. Take off the bearing ring- it should be about 6-8 in diameter and mount this between 2 plywood discs. Drill a series of indexing holes in the top plate and one hole in the bottom and use a piece of dowel as the pin.
 
This works very well as a turn table.
 
Regards

EJ,
I can't believe how fast you are building this ship. I'm at 18 months and just starting the rigging on the Endeavour; and. the la Couronne is a much more complicated build.

EJ,
I can't believe how fast you are building this ship. I'm at 18 months and just starting the rigging on the Endeavour; and. the la Couronne is a much more complicated build.

Nicely done! It does go slow with the rigging doesn't it?

Nicely done! It does go slow with the rigging doesn't it?