lagrayjr

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 147 – Ship’s Boats 3
 
In the last part the frames were installed on the port side of the plug.  The first picture shows the starboard side framing in progress.
 

 
 
The frame strips were left to soak in water overnight, making them very flexible.  They were then brushed with glue where they would mate with the opposite frame and the keel and then pushed under the keel.  Each frame was then pinned down at both ends and sometimes in other places as shown in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the topside plank on the starboard side being installed against the nailed guide strip.
 

 
I intend to leave this side unplanked to show the framing, so only the wale below the top plank will be installed on this side.  On the other (port) side, the nailed guide strip and this top plank were also installed.  The next picture shows the keel rabbet being pared out on the port side to prepare for the garboard strake.
 

 
The rabbet at the deadwood and on the stem were pared out first with a V-gouge as shown in the picture.  These areas were then cleaned up and the remainder of the keel rabbet formed using the barette file shown in the next picture.
 

 
The garboard strake was then installed as shown below.
 

 
Back on the starboard side the channel wale was installed just below the top plank while glue was drying on the port side planking.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that all the work shown above was done on longboat two, the second to be made.  At the same time, work was proceeding on the first boat.  The next picture shows that boat fully planked below the channel wale on both sides.  The wale has been temporarily inserted so the top plank can be glued on.
 

 
As on the ship’s hull, boats will be painted, and the channel wales shown in a contrasting color, so they will be glued in after painting of both the hull and the wale to ensure a clean line.  In the next part I will pick up on work to finish longboat 1.
 
Ed
 

Hello,

I am very pleased about your positive reactions and nice comments.
Thanks for that and for all the likes.

In little steps, it goes on.
The 2 x 8 bottom boards are ready for installation.

Hello,
 
thanks for your nice comments and interesst,
even for the likes.
 
Here is a little update:
 

 

 

 
 
 

Another photos
 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 146 – Ship’s Boats 2
 
In the last part I had just begun bending frames over the longboat plug for the first of the two longboats, so I will continue from that point, but picking up with longboat 2 from that same point.  Longboat 1 is proceeding merrily along its way and I will catch up with that work later.  In the first picture all the square frames on the port side have been soaked in water, bent over the plug and clamped down with the pin clamps.
 

 
I found that soaking the .03” strips in water overnight was more than sufficient to make them flexible enough for this work.  They were just left soaking until needed.  Although pinned roughly in position these will be more accurately spaced at both the keel and the gunwale in later steps.  This is the same plug used on Longboat 1, as evidenced by the pinholes.
 
In the next picture the inside stem shape is being fitted to the bow of the plug.
 

 
This was a case of matching up and sanding until a good fit was obtained.  You may recall that the plug is shaped to the inside of the frames.  In the next picture the outer curve of the stem has been cut after fitting the inner edge and the stem is being glued to the keel.
 

 
This assembly was then glued to the frames as shown in the next picture.
 

 
As this was clamped down with pins through drilled holes, the frames were spaced at the keel by eye.  The upper ends are still doing their own thing.  In the next picture a deadwood is being glued to the keel under the aft end of the plug.
 

 
The next step was to bring the upper ends of the frames into line.  This was done by nailing a strip over them at the gunwale as shown in the next picture.
 

 
The lower edge of this strip (upper in the photo) corresponds to the top of the side.  This strip put enough pressure on the frames allow them to be aligned and spaced at the top.  Once this was done the uppermost hull plank could be glued to the frames.  This is shown in the last picture.
 

 
I used holly to plank the side.  The planks are about 1” thick and 4 or five inches wide.  The two longboats are carvel planked and will be painted.  Note that none of the starboard frames have been installed at this stage.  These will be slipped between the plug and the keel and glued to their partners along the frame floors.  Thus each frame will extend from the top of the side, over the keel and to the turn of the bilge on the opposite side.  This construction will be clearer in the next part.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 143 – Monkey Rail 1
 
The two surviving pictures of Young America again provided the basis for the brass rail design used on the model.  The rail is just discernable in the picture taken from the starboard quarter.  From this it is clear that it was not of heavy or ornamental wood construction and equally clear – at least to me and I am happy to say, Bill Crothers – that it was a single, slim rail.  By the way, it is also very clear from this picture that the poop deck is at the height of the main rail and not a few feet below as shown on some models – including the builder’s half model in the Smithsonian.  Either that, or the people standing on the deck were on well-hidden stilts.  I suspect that the need to have good height in the aft cabin area led to this feature being incorporated before actual construction, perhaps by the owners.  Anyway, based on the picture and Bill Crothers’ interpretation, I elected to incorporate a single brass rail about 3 feet above the deck supported by cylindrical brass stanchions.  These have a ball-shaped top to pass the rail, and flanges at the base that rest on the main rail.
 
The first picture shows the method used to cut both the top fittings and the lower flanges.
 

 
The cutting guide used on the skid beam stanchion flanges was used for this.  The picture actually shows one of the 2” thick flanges being cut off.  The tops were cut in 3” sections using the hole covered by the saw.  The next picture shows top pieces and stanchions almost ready to be soldered together.
 

 
The next picture shows the first step of the assembly with the tops silver soldered to the posts.
 

 
The soldering unfortunately softens the wire somewhat so straightening is required – initially and whenever I lean on the finished rail – a habit I am diligently trying to correct. The tops were then rounded off and polished in the lathe with files as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the addition of the lower flanges.
 

 
The wood guide was used to ensure uniform height to the posts – and of course the rail.  After setting the flanges at the correct height, these were soldered on.  The next picture shows the final finishing and polishing of one of the stanchions.
 

 
Chucking the complete stanchion assembly in this step was the reason for the excess length in the initial pieces.  After filing a fillet on the top of the flange and removing all traces of solder and scale, fine abrasive polishing sticks were used to bring up the luster of the brass.
 
Some special stanchion pieces were required and two types are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The stanchion at the top has two top fittings set at right angles.  These will be set at the head of the steps to the main deck to support both the athwartship rail sections on the breast beam and also the stair rails.  The lower piece was shown earlier in position at the stern.  I do not know the purpose of this higher section, but it serves as a convenient start point for installing the rails, as will be seen in the next post.
 
Ed

Hi Fam,
thanks for the nice comment.

You've understood correctly. It should be noted that the
the deeper grooves extend in the direction of the wood grain.
The timber blank has a thickness of about 8 mm.
The deep cut has about 3 mm, and the shallower cuts are 0.8 to 1 mm deep.
However, I have the grooves made with a milling cutter 0.8 mm.


Meanwhile, I have made a grating,
which you can see here.

Hello,
 
here is a little updat of my report.
See the pictures:
 
The washstrakes are already built.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Hello ,

thank you for your interest and kind comments. Also thanks for the many Likes.
The planking of the second cutter is ready.
Here is an update of the photo report:
 

 

 

 

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

 

Suite et fin de la barre de gouvernail
 
Isalbert

Hi, some pictures of the tiller in court at 1 / 48th. The fact bareau 1.2 mm and overall about 3.5 cm.
Made with a lap and limes.
Good evening
 
Isalbert

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

I agree that properly proportioned belaying pins on models are the exception rather than the rule! My own workaround was to make the pin in two parts: the straight shank and the contoured handle. The handles have short pins for insertion into the rack. Of course Remco's and your own solution to turning small diameter parts is far more elegant!

Stem - Keel - Stern:
 
Progress is slow and steady on the Naiad.  The entire backbone of the ship is all glued up and sits on the shipway, ready for the finishing touches before framing begins.
 

The Stem and Head of Knee all ready.  I cut the gammoning slot using a small drill bit to puch out successive holes and then cleaned it up with a file.  If I were to do this again, I would cut the gammoning slot before tapering the piece!  I had to angle the part so the slot would be perpendicular to the piece when fayed to the stem.  Also, if you are temped to not make the jig for tapering the knee of the head as outlined in the book (as I was), then you run the risk of having a bent nose to your ship (trust me on this and learn from my badly chosen shortcut).  I was able to correct the "bent nose", but the part could have been perfect, not just very good...
 

I still need to cut the rabbet as well as install the copper nails.  I ordered some antique copper wire in 22 and 24ga. for this purpose and will show it once it arrives.
 

I am very happy with the stern deadwood structure. A simple structure that was tricky to make due to all the angles.  In the end, just study how this should look on the real ship and then execute.  Its all very logical once studied.
 

This is how she sits on the slipway.  I am very pleased with the results.  There is a subtle taper fore and aft on the keel structure that I have never inclued in my previous models.  This is a really nice touch and is a result of precise plans and research by EdT.  My hat is off to him again for creating such a wonderful monograph.
 
I will be switching back to my US Brig Eagle to start the masting, and will start a log on that here next week.
All the best, Gary
 

Finally after a one year, the basic structure of the upper deck is finished. I never realised I was that slow building my ship :-)
 
I don't plan to add more ledges between the carlings so there is a better view at the lower decks. Cutting the mortice in the wing transom was a bit tricky, especially as they had to be right the first time.
 
Time to add tome more bits to the deck.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Remco
 
 

........
 
                you soon rekon54

Hello friends,
new Pictures.
Regards Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  7

In the next step I made the mast clamps for the thwarts.
 

 

 

 
On the following pictures are all built-in parts for the Pinnace

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 130 – Windlass 3
 
The first picture shows about as much of the ratchet mechanism that will ever be visible on the model – below the open forecastle deck on the port side.
 

 
This was taken just before the opening of the holes in the deck for the connecting rods on either side of the Samson post.  The rods were then sized, flattened and rounded at the ends, and drilled for connecting pins.  The next picture shows the handbrake being made.
 

 
A brass rod was inserted through a brass tube and silver-soldered in.  The outer tube was then squared off and center-marked for the three pin holes.  These are shown being drilled in the next picture.
 

 
The brake was then bent to conform to the final shape. A reinforcing strut was soldered across the top as shown in the next picture, taken after initial pinning together of the parts.
 

 
The brake handles have also been soldered on.  The brake assembly is temporarily bolted through the Samson post, which still has to be cut down to its final height.  In the next picture the windlass has been disassembled and the parts pickled and chemically blackened.
 

 
Both the connecting rods and the ratchet stops were fitted and bolted to the ratchet gears before treatment.  The parts were pickled in Sparex® and blackened in a 3% solution of WinOx®.  This is always a chancey process with me, mainly because of my impatience with pre-cleaning and pickling.  However, the results in this case were acceptable and the preassembled, finished parts are shown below before mounting.
 

 
The next picture shows work on the spindle cogs.  There are six on each spindle that fit into the milled slots.
 

 
Six brass strips were ganged in the vise as shown and roughed out with files.  They were first mounted on masking tape to help them behave when placing in the vise.  The final shaping and rounding was then done on the individual pieces as shown below.
 

 
The cogs were then blackened and epoxied into the slots.  The complete windlass is shown in place in the last picture.
 

 
In this picture the Samson post has been cut down to size and the woodwork given a wax finish.  Note that a backlash stop is installed over the central gear.  This is pinned in a small bracket that is bolted into the Samson post below the deck beam.  The installation is still temporary.  I expect the end axle sections will be wooden in the final installation.
 
 
Ed

Hello,
 
thanks for the nice comments.
Here is a little update:

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 129 – Windlass 2
 
After the ratchet gears, the wood spindles seemed an easy task.  The first step was to turn the o.d. and bore out the center to fit the axles.  The first picture shows this work completed.
 

 
The wood was first turned between centers.  This helped ensure centering for the axle hole.  The piece was then chucked as shown, the hole drilled and the o.d. finished.  The piece is long enough for both spindles.
 
To save myself the trouble of resetting the rotating head vertical and repeating all the alignments, I decided to mill the cog slots vertically as shown below.
 

 
There are six milled slots 2 ¼” deep and 2 ¼” wide – a convenient design for the 1/32” end mill.  The next picture shows the two spindles cut roughly to size with the other parts made so far.
 

 
These parts were then test fitted to a central shaft as shown below.
 

 
Because there is not enough space for one single shaft to be inserted between the carrick bits and the side bulwarks, the shaft is made in three pieces.  The rotating parts fit over a central shaft that reaches to about the midpoint of each wood spindle.  Short axle stubs are then inserted from outboard of the carrick bits to hold the assembly in place.
 
The next picture shows the assembly fitted with the frames of the two ratchet assemblies.
 

 
These assemblies were made from some ¼” x 1/8” rectangular brass tube.  The extended ends of the frames were made by slitting off some of the tube on the circular saw.  This capping piece was then silver soldered to a full section of tube as shown below.
 

 
In this picture the pieces have been pinned in place and silver solder paste applied to the joint.  After soldering, holes were drilled for pins to hold the connecting rods and the ratchet stops.  Then shapes of the frames were then cut off as shown below.
 

 
The gear end of each of these was sliced open and fitted into the grooves on either side of the ratchet gears.  In the next picture the wood spindles are being marked for final sizing to fit between the carrick bits.
 

 
The sides of the ratchet frames are very close to the central samson post.  To avoid contact between these parts, the two spacers between the gears needed to be replaced with slightly thicker versions to separate the large gears a bit.  In the last picture this has been done and the assembly set up on the bits.
 

 
The tops of the ratchet gears are very close to the underside of the breast beam – about 1”.  In retrospect, I would have paid more attention to the height of the carrick bits holes relative to the deck.  However, this clearance is sufficient – as is the clearance between the ratchet frames and the samson post.
 
The next task was to position the vertical connecting rods, cut holes for them through the deck, and install the seesaw brake.
 
 
Ed

Few more photos 
 

 

 

 

 

Thanks all for your very generous comments!
 
Mike Y and Pat figured it out, I expected more of you would have     
 
Here is the setup on my Sherline
 

 

 

 
It takes some practice to get it right as it is not an exact science. The inner diameter of the tube is a bit bigger than the stock so in the beginning it will flex under the pressure of the file, once the spoke gets thinner it will push against the file due to the centrifugal force. Practice makes perfect as always. 
 

 
After today no more spokes, I accidentally bumped into the jig and broke it :-( 
 
Remco
 
ps TFFM refers to the excellent collection of books The fully framed model vol 1-4 by David Antscherl and Greg Herbert 

Thank you Mick!

I continue with my report: