lagrayjr

Attack can be used to dissolve cured epoxy .http://www.ottofrei.com/Attack-Glue-Dissolving-Compound-.html and does not discolor wood. Laman

Because, my friends, it will take me a few days to make the sixth structural improvement on the slipway. The update speed may be temporarily affected, thank you for your attention. I'll keep going until I finish it!  
 

Hi 🙂

I just received a copy of Comet of 1783 by David Antscherl over the weekend. To say the least the book is outstanding. What I found most interesting was David's detailed description of the fire room and how it works. I personally had no idea about a fire ship and am amazed at the complexity of the structure. David does not repeat what he has written in TheFullyFramed Model; however, the Comet does show the detail differences in a fire ship. In addition the book includes a very detailed description of building quarter galleries and the armament of the ship which is 18 pound carronades. These are not covered in the FFM books. This book is a must for  anyone who is interested in 18th-century British naval power. Congratulations David for another outstanding contribution to our literature. Laman

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 319 – Running Rigging Continued
 
I keep looking at the model and thinking that it doesn't look a lot different than it did last month - considering the amount of time being spent on it.  All these pictures were taken today after a fairly major cleanup of the work area.  The first picture shows most of the model.
 
 
 
In the picture the rigging of the foremast is essentially finished except for the lower braces which are deferred for access reasons.  On the main mast all the lines are run and belayed at least initially, again except for braces.  The mizzen still lacks its four upper yards but these have been made and are ready for rigging.
 
The next picture shows the fore course sheets that were installed this week.
 
 
 
Again, these were deferred until now to permit access.  These large, 5" lines run from a shackled eyebolt on the outside of the sheer rail, then forward and up through the large block ganged with the clue garnet block, the tack and the lazy tack.  Finally they pass back through a bulwark sheave and are belayed to cleats on the deck.  The next picture may be clearer.
 

 
Without sails, the lines drape across the lower shrouds.  The tacks are the lines running forward to cleats on the catheads.  The lazy tacks angle aft and belay on the first pin on the main rack rails.  These were used to control the tack of the sail when the yard was being braced around – between the casting off of the sheet and the belaying of the tack – or vice versa.  The starboard tack may be seen belayed to its cleat on the cathead in the next picture.
 

 
This picture also shows the new lashing between the bullseyes on the martingale stay where it is shackled to the cathead.  This outer bowsprit standing rigging suffered damage during nearby work.  It should have been deferred.  The jibboom guys are still scheduled for replacement.
 
Further aloft, work on the fore upper yard braces has progressed.  The next picture shows the topgallant brace tackles between yard and stay pendants.
 
 
 
Tension on these will be relieved to normalize the stay.  Below this, the fore upper topsail braces have been run except for the falls, which are delayed to permit access to belaying points below.
 
The main spencer gaff has finally been mounted and rigged and is shown in the next picture.
 
 
 
 
The rigging on these consist of one standing lift and two vang pendants with tackles.  The tackles and belaying points on the side rails are out of this picture.
 
Rigging of the fore braces gets complex at the heads of the stays as seen in the next picture.
 
 
 
The tackle falls run through blocks seized to the stay then through blocks on the shrouds to direct them downwards without fouling.  Two sets of braces attach to this stay.  One level up it gets even more congested with the two upper sets of braces as well as the staysail halyard block.
 

 
Finally another view of the full model.
 

 
The two broken jibboom guy chains may be seen dangling from the boom waiting for replacement in this picture.
 
Approaching endgame.
 
Ed

Hello,
the work for the burton pendants is now complete. Here is a picture of all lower mast head pendants:

 

 

@michael mott
Hello Micheal,
today I took a picture of the spool traveler.
This runs on the lower axis.
I hope that your question has been answered.


@Dziadeczek
Hello Dziadeczek,
in fact, the spool traveler rests on the axis.
In the following picture you can see how I worming the rope.
This works very well with the serving machine.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 317 – Upper Yards - Main
 
On the fore upper yards, I attached most of the rigging, including the long lines of running rigging, to the yards before erecting the assembly of the pole mast with the royal and skysail yards mounted.  This was a bit of a mess, due to of the number of lines and also because many needed to be coiled to avoid tangle.  This left some kinked and fuzzy.  For the main upper yards pictured below, only the standing rigging, and not all of that, was attached at the bench.
 

 
In the picture, the royal stay and royal backstays go down at the bottom of the picture.  Standing lifts were installed over a grid to help level them.  I noticed later the missing footropes on the skysail.  These will have to be fitted later on the model.  Can't wait.  The next picture shows the above assembly erected on the mast.
 
 
Despite best efforts at the bench, the port, royal standing lift had to be removed and installed in place to level the yard.  Some loose ends need to be clipped off and the wire sheet chains are still on the loose.  The next picture is closer.
 
 
The next step was to run the falls from the two skysail sheet chains dangling below the center of the royal yard.  That has been completed in the next picture.
 
 
The upper arrow points to one of the skysail sheets.  These run all the way down to the main deck, passing through fairleads in the main top.  After belaying, these lines get a lot of tension adjustment to pull down evenly on the yard and make the standing lifts – lower arrow – taut.  To do this, I pull down on the fall with tweezers above the pin, then haul on the loose end.  No glue on the belaying point until all the lines are run and adjusted.  The next picture shows the fore and main upper masts.
 
 
The height of these masts is impressive – the main extends 180 feet above the deck.  The fore royal stay has been run in this picture.  The tension between that and the two backstays sets the straightness of the mast.  The last picture shows the lower end of the main royal stay.
 
 
The 4 1/2" stay descends from the upper left corner of the photo through a bullseye strapped to the main topmast head.  The loose ends of the splice between the masts have not yet been clipped off.  The free end of the stay is clamped taut above the picture so the seizings may be tied at the lower end where it is fastened to an eyebolt under the leathered stays.  The gang of stays and shrouds made this a difficult connection.  I had to resort to a hook to the barely reachable eyebolt.  A shackle on this would have made life easier, but too late for that.  Drawing/Rigging List revision is pending for those that follow.  An alternative sometimes used was to strap an eye to the top forward stay collar, but this would have had to be done before setting the collar.
 
Ed

Hello,
thank you for the active cooperation and the suggestion.
I also think a darker lynard fits in more harmoniously.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 315 – More Yard ironwork
 
So, except for a few parral straps and the unfortunate mizzen skysail yard, all the remaining yards are now made and fitted with their ironwork.  This post describes the final steps in completing those yards.
 
On the largest yards, the yardarm bands were fit over the arms then drilled for their eyebolts – usually two or three on each.  With the smaller yards, this drilling into the wood weakens the yard arm, so prefabricated bands with soldered-in eyebolts were made for these.  I believe I described some of the fabrication steps in earlier posts, but the first picture shows one of these being drilled.
 

The first two holes were drilled through, and fitted with a pin to help set the piece in the vise with the side holes horizontal - for drilling the third hole.  The copper tube used here was a very tight fit over the arm and was also filed around the outside to reduce its thickness.  The next picture shows two eyebolts set into a tube with solder paste applied.
 

After soldering, the bolt excess on the inside was removed out with an abrasive bit and a round file.  The tube was then set in the vise to saw off the band.
 

The band is held with pliers to prevent its flying or dropping to the floor when it is parted.  Searching for these small, dropped parts is a major annoyance.  A better method for this is to insert a length of wire into the tube above the saw blade when it is almost cut through to retain the loose piece.  The next, rather poor photo, shows one of the smallest of these bands fit to its yard.
 

This is a tight fit.  The sheave in this yard remains to be carved out.
 
The lower, upper topsail, and topgallant yards on the fore and main masts carry studdingsail booms for the top, topgallant and royal studdingsails, respectively.  In this final set of yards only the main topgallant required these.  The fabrication of the gear was described in an earlier post, but a few pictures of the work on the last of these is shown below.  In the first picture the strap that reinforces the yardarm is being filed out of a copper strip.
 

This is then bent to fit around the arm and the legs clipped to size.
 

The bands are then held entirely by tight-fitting rings pushed over the end of the yard.  The rings shown were cut from tube, then stretched with the small steel mandrel for a tight fit.  The next picture of an earlier yard shows the band assembly and the other boom gear.
 

The main topgallant yard with all it major ironwork is shown in the next picture.
 

At this stage the jackstay stanchions – 28 gauge twisted copper wire eyes – were pushed into the holes previously drilled in the yards.  The tightness of the fit in the .024" holes has proved sufficient, except on the small diameter yards where some additional holding power is needed.  To avoid interfering with blackening, no glue has been used on the yards.  The next picture shows the stanchions on a small yard pushed through, clipped off, and then peened on the underside.
 

In this step the pliers hold the eye of the stanchion and act as an anvil for the light tapping of the hammer. No, this is not how the mizzen skysail yard was broken.  With these installed, the ironwork on the yards was blackened and the remaining minor fittings added.  The final set of yards is shown in the next picture.
 

The ironwork was blackened with liver of sulfur solution brushed liberally over the yard, followed by progressive rinsing under a cold water tap.  When thoroughly dry, the blackened brass jackstays were pushed through the stanchions. Other inserted eyes and the sheet blocks were then glued in with CA and a light final finish of wipe-on polyurethane applied over wood and metal.   In the picture the lower three yards are the main topgallant, royal and skysail yards.  Those above are the mizzen yards from the upper topsail to the royal.  These yards are now ready to be rigged and mounted.
 
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 309 – Foremast Top-hamper 2
 
I mentioned in the last post that the topmost pole mast and the two upper yards were to be installed with most of the rigging fitted at the bench.  The first picture shows the assembly erected on the topgallant crosstrees.
 

The two forward stays – the royal and the skysail – have been threaded down through the bowsprit, but most of the other lines are dangling in a tangle - as yet unconnected.  The running rigging lines – clew-lines, buntlines, leechlines, and skysail sheets – all of which are quite long - are coiled to avoid a real tangle.  The next step was to run the standing rigging lines to their connection points to clear some of the mess.  In the next picture the lifts on the two upper yards are rigged and the backstays for the upper mast sections have been run – but not yet connected.
 

The arrows point to the royal standing lift, the royal backstay and the skysail backstay on the port side.  In the next picture the skysail sheets below the royal yard have been run and the clew-lines for both yards are being rigged. 
 

These lines serve to pull the yards down on the lifts.  Arrows point to the clew-lines that attach to the chain sheets.  All these lines pass down through the fairleads in the top and belay on the main deck rails.  Once the yards were held down, the halyards were passed through their mast sheaves and secured to their central sling bands on both yards.  In the next picture the arrow points to the dangling royal halyard chain that runs down from the mast sheave, and will eventually be connected to a tackle to the deck.
 

 
This picture also shows the royal shroud pairs.  These run from the masthead down through holes at the ends of the crosstrees and are seized to eyes on the topgallant mast band in the lower part of the picture.  The next picture shows the upper mast backstays connected to the deadeyes on the starboard channel
 

Starting from the skid beam and working aft, the channel connections are – the wire for the standing end upper topsail halyard, the two topmast backstays, the tackle block for the skysail halyard, the topgallant backstay, the royal backstay, and finally the skysail backstay.  The deadeyes and lanyards on these standing lines decrease in size down to 6" diameter and 1 1/2" rope size, respectively.  The lanyards on the last three backstays will be tied off later once the tensions are set – and the mast made vertical.
 
The next picture shows the bunt and leechlines rigged on the royal yard. 
 

 
The skysail has only lifts, halyard and clewlines.  Except for the truck at the top of the mast, some neglected ratlines on the topgallant shrouds, and a couple dozen rope coils on the pin rails, the foremast rigging is now complete.  Braces are being saved for last.  The next two pictures show the mast at this stage.
 

 

This was a lot of rigging to sort out.  I hope the descriptions are not too confusing.  On the remaining masts I will use this same process, but leave off the clew, bunt, and leech lines  to be done in place.  Coiling these small cotton ropes results in a lot of fuzz when they are untangled and stretched out.  I had to replace a couple. Rigging these in place reduces this problem.  I have also begun treating cotton lines with diluted pva to further reduce fuzz.  More on this later.
 
Ed

Thank you very much for your comments and your liking, place the last photos, the model of Naiad is over, thank you so much for following me during construction and I thank Ed Tosti so much that with his magnificent drawings allowed me to build this beautiful frigate. Greetings to everyone and thanks again.
 

Hi some more photos.

Amalio, Michael, thank you very much.

Part 69 –Bowsprit Iron
 
In Part 67, iron rings for the boom and mast top were made by bending annealed brass strips to form the tabs and the shape of the ring itself.  This approach worked well for irons that have 1 or 2 tabs.  However, Kathryn’s Bowsprit Iron has 4 tabs as shown in the following photo, so a different method was required.
 
                        
 
A brass tube that would fit over the forward part of the bowsprit, along with 1/8” x .025” brass strips for the tabs were used.  
 
The end of the strip was formed into a small peg, using the rotary tool and files.  The peg was sized to fit into four holes drilled into the brass tube.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The holes were aligned using an index block in the milling table, and drilling was performed on the milling machine.
 
A jig was made from Corian with a hole for holding the tube and with slots at right angles to keep the tabs properly aligned while soldering the tabs to the tube.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The tabs were then drilled.  The drilling was performed using a series of drills starting with a #72 and progressing to a #53.  
 
                        
 
After the drilling, the tabs were roughly ground and filed to the rough finished shape.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The configuration was held in the three-jaw chuck on the lathe, and the ring was parted off using a jewelers saw.  For this work the lathe remained turned off, and the chuck was simply turned by hand.
 
                        
 
The shape of the Bowsprit Iron and tabs was finalized by filing, and the iron was then cleaned up and polished.
 
                        
 
The Bowsprit Iron was painted white and was CA glued to the bowsprit. The forward end of the bowsprit was also painted white.
 

 
Before the bowsprit can be permanently mounted on the model, the Trailboards need to be created and mounted.  This is a subject I’ve been working on and thinking about for some time, but I still haven’t determined the best way to create the Trailboards.  I’ll keep thinking about it while I do other work required for the model’s rigging.
 
Cheers, everyone!

Part 68 –Boom Cont’d
 
The last components that needed to be made for the boom are three Reefing Blocks.  These are positioned aft of the boom Iron and bail, so they needed to be left to last.
 
                        
 
The Reefing Blocks were made from 1/8” x 1/16” stock. Two holes were drilled for each block, to simulate the sheave.
 
                        
 
The sheave was shaped using a chisel that was made from a #76 drill – the back end of the drill was shaped and sharpened using a diamond cylinder in a rotary tool, and was held in a small pin vise while in use.
 
                        
 
                        
 
The stock was then thinned down further in the thickness sander.  The side that would be attached to the boom was made as thin as possible (about half the diameter of the #76 drill, or .010”.
 
                        
 
The blocks were separated from the stock and the forward and aft vertical edges were rounded.
 
                        
 
After attaching the blocks to the boom, the boom is now completed.
 
There are many components to the boom.  The following is a summary of those components:
 
At the aft end of the boom, there are two boom irons with an embedded sheave between them.
 
                        
 
·     The aftmost iron secures the fixed end of the Topping Lift.
·     The embedded sheave is for the Topping lift to pass through on the way to the Topping Lift Cleat.
·     The forwardmost of the two irons serves to secure the clew of the sail.  The line from the clew runs to the Topping Lift Cleat.
 
Moving forward, the next components are the Reefing Blocks discussed earlier. There are two on the starboard side and one on the port side of the boom.
 
                        
 
Forward of the Reefing Blocks is a boom iron with a bail.  This is for securing the Main Sheet.
 
                        
 
Next, there are two cleats on each side of the boom.  On the starboard side these are both used to secure the Reefing Lines.  On the port side, the aft cleat is for a Reefing Line, and the forward cleat is for securing the Topping Lift.
 
                        
 
There are three fairleads under the boom for the Lazy Jacks, and a pair of cleats forward of these fairleads that serve as anchor points for the lazy jacks.
 
There are screw eyes located every 24” along the boom for the sail lacing, and a larger eyebolt is located at the very forward end of the boom to secure the boom lift and the tack of the sail.
 
                        
 
The following photo shows the boom as completed.
 
                        
 
Thanks, everyone!

Good morning.

Good morning.

Hello,
many thanks to all for the nice comments and the LIKES.
The lifebuoy has received the wrap with ropes and ropes on which
those who are to be rescued can hold on.
Finally, I show a picture with the lifebuoy on the model.
 

Hello Alberto,
thanks for the compliment and all others for the LIKES.
Here is a short update:

Hello,
today a short update.
I hope the pictures speak for themselves.

Thank you very much for your comments and likes.