mattsayers148

Keith,
 
I read all your comments as well as Danny's and several others on Capt. Al's log, and paid close attention to that recommendation (I ordered .5 mm x 6mm walnut planks to veneer the ply edges).  I'm also going to veneer all the lower and middle deck edges as well.
 
Your model is a fine example for me to follow, and I appreciate you following the log as I have many questions and some ideas I'd really like your input on.
 
I'll be posting my lower deck planking tomorrow.
 
Thanks much for joining in and I look forward to your input.
 
Boyd

Great start, Thomas. I will be following your log with interest. Just a note - the plywood laminations can still be seen after staining with walnut. On my build, I decided to leave it alone - to my eternal regret. If I were to do it again, I would cover up the plywood with something else. 

Hi Matt,
 
Thanks for stopping in, and the kind words. I couldn't agree more about information being a great asset here.  Reading many logs made me comfortable both to build the Bounty and to start a build log. 
 
I notice you're building the Bounty Launch, at some point I plan to build it myself.
 
ttyl,
 
Boyd

Neat.  Great info.  Thanks for sharing.

Looking forward to see what you come up with Buck!  If your other details are any indication, this should be good! 
 
Cheers

Well now, that is absolutely incredible Buck! I'm glad you put the lantern next to a ruler. The penny seemed to be getting crowded so you might consider smashing one in one of those penny crusher/stretcher/smasher machines. It would be the penny's version of a minivan, ya know, to be able to fit more kids in/on.
 
Did you ever get the info on the lantern keg? I almost forgot about that one.
 
And don't worry about the sideways picture, this guy had a siniminalr per emblem.

Hi Brian,
 
Thanks for stopping in.  
 
I agree, having read over 100 build logs by now, I've come to realize that no matter how expert you become, there's always room for improvement.  
 
It takes extra effort to maintain a log but I think it's well worth the effort.
 
I'll be getting into the more creative areas soon.
 
ttyl,
 
Boyd

Welcome aboard Thomas.  
 
I think you'll be glad you started the log, as I get not only assistance and tips in my logs, but also encouragement and motivation to progress from the community here.
 
It looks like you've got a nice start on this one, and I'll look forward to watching your progress, even if I don't have any particular tips as someone new to this hobby myself.

Next I assemble the keel and frames, and install the lower cross beam supports.
 
First, I included a few pictures of the instruction narratives, picture book and one of the part spec sheets so people can get a feel for what one has to work with when building this model (most instructions are fairly clear but a few seem to have lost something in the translation). 
 
However, between the above directions, the plan sheets, and closely reviewing a couple other AL Bounty build logs I’v been able to navigate the waters so far 
 
I glued in the fore and aft most frames (4 and 39) and their lower cross beams first to be able to use the middle deck as a template to check the alignment of the remaining frames (note; I also clamped a few middle level cross beam supports in to help further support the middle deck as I aligned and glued each of the frames). 
 
After I completed gluing frames 4 and 39 I installed the bow stiffeners and the stern fittings/stabilizers as it made sense to get that out of the way at this point.
 
Then I installed the fore, main and mizzen mast supports on the keel.
 
I then installed the rest of the bow and stern frames 5 – 10 and 33 – 38 on the keel using the same square and leveling technique used on the first two frames.
 
Lastly, I installed all the cross beam supports for the lower bow deck and the forward hold platform (bottom decks).
 
 
 

Here is a sample of a narrative, a picture from the book, and a spec part sheet.
 
 

Rear view of the aft most frame being glued in.
 
 

Side view of the aft most frame being glued in (combination of machinist blocks, a square and a level to align each frame).
 
 

Close up of the stern stiffeners 
 
 

Overhead view of the completed frame and keel with aft and bow stiffeners and stabilizers 
   

 
 

 
 
 
Stay tuned for planking the lower decks..... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Everyone,
 
This is my first build log so needless to say I’m looking forward to sharing my experience as well as getting some constructive feedback from some of the more experienced builders.
 
I choose the AL HMS Bounty kit because of the open hull design which I think will make a great display model.  Also, I enjoyed all the Mutiny on the Bounty films so that provided additional motivation.
 
I’ve spent time reading “The Armed Transport Bounty (The Anatomy)” which was recommended to me by one of the members (a great reference book for any Bounty model builder).
 
I plan to do extensive modifications to the kit (many based on The Anatomy book), adding many additional details as well as enhancing/upgrading existing ones.  I will also replace quite a bit of the supplied materials (e.g. Basswood and Walnut strips, Mast and Spar dowels, many deck furniture pieces, and most of the rigging lines/ropes, dead eyes, blocks, etc).  I will note these changes/additions as I move through each stage of the build.
 
Some might call this a "Kit Bash"....so call it what you will....  
 
 
 
A few details about this model:
 
Model: Artesania Latina HMS Bounty (AL22810)
Scale: 1:48
Length: 36.5 inches
Height: 27.75 inches
 
I included a token picture of the box and the contents. 
 
After a few hours of reading the instructions and checking inventory all the parts appear to be included (although I didn't pay much attention to the wood strips,dowels and rigging material as they will be replaced).  The quality of the materials and parts looks good to me (with a few minor exceptions) but what do I know.  And the laser cuts on the pre-cut parts look very clean and seem to fit nicely on a dry fit (e.g. keel, frames and ply decks).
                                                           
                                                           
 
                                                           
 
Pre-construction activity:
 
I believe in a solid foundation no matter what you’re building so I put together a build board first thing (as recommended in many build logs).
 
I took a piece of laminated shelving I had and fastened three clamps made from ply to hold the keel tightly in place along with a couple of “L” brackets to hold either end of the keel.  I’ll use weights and machinist blocks as I go along to support the keel and frames. 
 
I measured center on every frame and then checked each side to see if the height and width matched up.  Unfortunately, several measurements were off by a half to 1 millimeter on a few frames.  As such, I’ll definitely need to do some filing and shimming when the time comes.    
 
I also did a dry fit on the decks and they appear to fit quite nicely.
 
When dry assembling the keel and frames most of the joints were tight with the exception of a few which needed to be snugged up.  To get the frames nice and snug I used .5mm x 6mm shim pieces (.5 or less thickness x height of the notch on both sides to keep the frames centered).  
 
 
 

 
Build stand
 
 

 
Dry fit of frames and keel after I stained all the pieces (ended up using a Natural Walnut stain) 
 
 

 
Additional parts for the keel and frames were also stained

Thanks, Boyd. Feel free to raise that bar ... and throw it completely overboard !!

Hi Steve,
 
Wow, I just found your build log, all I can say is your attention to detail is amazing....the wood treatments, and other details like the anchor, rudder, coconuts....as well as the incredible "colouration" you did on the sails (not to mention the amazing display stand).
 
Logs like yours really help beginners like myself.....gives me inspiration to try and raise the bar.
 
Thanks for taking the time to maintain it.
 
Boyd

Hi Lawrence,
Many thanks for words of approval of my work.
I think that ATLANTIC will reach a bottle enough not soon. Yesterday I made the third deck house and started trying to do the anchor winch. Railings too are some problem for me.
 
Best Regards!
Igor.

Wow!! ... that is some really nice work!!!
 
Frank

Sure looks great Captainsteve. I glad to be back abord to see how things are progressing.

Thanks CaptainSteve, and wow those carronades on Dafi's HMS Victory are awesome!

Thanks CaptainSteve, and wow those carronades on Dafi's HMS Victory are awesome!

Thanks CaptainSteve, and wow those carronades on Dafi's HMS Victory are awesome!

Dunno if this helps, but I remembered seeing it in my copy of AOS Constitution by Karl Heinz Marquardt ...

 
Also, have you had a chance to check out these carronades in Dafi's HMS Victory build ??

Thank you to everyone for the likes and input in this pirate affair.
 
I agree with you George. The one in there has 3 strand which is way too big. it looks like the real bolt is an inch or so round, meaning a 1/64 or .0156, I hope I can find one that small.

Thank you to everyone for the likes and input in this pirate affair.
 
I agree with you George. The one in there has 3 strand which is way too big. it looks like the real bolt is an inch or so round, meaning a 1/64 or .0156, I hope I can find one that small.

I decided to try the wire screw technique that I had used on my launch. I used much smaller wires, experimenting to get proper size and look. I Lina like the copper one especially after it's blackened. The copper is .028 and the other at .021.
 

Thank you to everyone for the likes and input in this pirate affair.
 
I agree with you George. The one in there has 3 strand which is way too big. it looks like the real bolt is an inch or so round, meaning a 1/64 or .0156, I hope I can find one that small.

I decided to try the wire screw technique that I had used on my launch. I used much smaller wires, experimenting to get proper size and look. I Lina like the copper one especially after it's blackened. The copper is .028 and the other at .021.
 

I can't really tell how big that unit is over-all Matt, but I think a really tiny screw would be better, considering all the rest of the great detail.  Maybe send ST 2 out for a daylight raid to a dollar store for a couple pair of plastic rimmed glasses (per Steve's suggestion)? The plastic ones have thicker and wider arms, hence a longer screw. Dollar Tree has them for a dollar. Just a thought.