thomaslambo

Hi Nils,
 
Thank you! The open planking allowing a view inside the ship was one of the main reasons I chose this model.
 

Very nice build Paul !
the kit provides best view into the ships belly and its stations...
 
Nils

Hi Husky,
 
Thank you for taking the time to comment on my build.
 
I agree with the points you make and appreciate your input. I take your point about the missing nails on the bulkhead planks. For some reason I didn't consider it at the time, but now you've mentioned it I agree they'd look better if they were nailed. I'll see if it's possible to add them now the bulkheads are in place. 
You're quite correct, the doors would have had hinges. I'm happy to convince myself that they're on the insides of the doors 
Thanks again for your suggestions 
Paul
 

Howdy Grendel,
 
Love the ship!  She is coming along beautifully.  I really liked the cabins that you installed.  Just noticed some things; would the planks on the bulkheads need nails as well?  Would the door have hinges and or nails in them?   Do the edges of the bulkheads on the amidships cabin where they mate together need trim strips?  They look kind of bare...I mean, if you can't see them anyway, I guess it doesn't matter.  Just trying to help
 
Don't get me wrong....she sure is a beauty and she has to be pretty big at that scale!
Ciao for now

So far I've been quite impressed with the quality of the components in this kit. Everything seems to fit together well, the laser cut pieces all seem accurate and, with a couple of exceptions, the supplied wood seems to be good quality. However, the gratings! Oh dear, what a mess. I could see as soon as I took some out of the packet that they were very poorly made. The spacing looked so irregular. Nevertheless I persevered and made the first set of gratings......and promptly threw them in the bin!  Fortunately I remember seeing in @cobra1951's build log that he had found some better quality gratings from Caldercraft, so I ordered a few sets from them. What a difference!
 
I hardly need to point out in this photo that the top set are the supplied AL gratings, the bottom are Cladercraft.
 

 
The gratings in place in the middle deck
 

 

The next stage of the build is the middle deck. Again I painted the ply boards black prior to planking
 

I'm much happier with the simulated nailing on this deck. I think it's better with just nails at the plank ends.

 
Again, thanks to @thomaslambo for pointing out the importance of filing the deck support to allow for the two bilge pipes prior to fitting the deck in place. It would be a nightmare to do at the point it's mentioned in the instructions!
 

 

 
And the mid deck (both sections) glued in place
 

 

The extra cabins installed
 

 

 

 

 
All in all I'm quite happy with my first attempt at kit bashing.
I have to say a big thanks to the other Bounty builders for the inspiration to give it a go  

So, after studying the drawings in the Anatomy book, and with a lot of help from the other Bounty build logs on here, I set about a little bashing.
 
Using cereal box cardboard I created the templates for the extra cabins. Once I was happy that they fitted perfectly in place I transferred the measurements to a sheet of ply board
 

 
Then I lined it with planking, again pencil edged, and created the doors and frames
 

Like a lot of Bounty builders on here I've been studying the Armed Transport Bounty, Anatomy Of The Ship by John McKay, which clearly shows more cabins than the AL kit provides.
 

 
So the next stage is a little kit bashing . Basically creating some more cabins on both sides of the lower deck.
 
I need to process some more photos in Photoshop so I'll update again soon  

On now to the bilge pump room. Using the supplied 0.5 x 5mm strips I clamped each strip in my Proxxon vice and edged each plank with a soft pencil on both sides before gluing them in place. It adds some time to the planking but I think it's well worth the extra effort. I like the way it gives the planks definition. Once planked I applied 3 coats of satin varnish.
 

 
 
The assembled bilge pump room in place. As you can just see in the next photo, the walls protrude slightly over the height of the middle deck planks, so some sanding will be required to bring them level. 
 
 

 

The next stage was to install the middle deck support beams
 

 
And the support chock
 

 
 
 

With all frames in place, checked and double checked for squareness, I installed the lower deck support beams
 

 
I painted the lower decks black prior to planking them to give a nice contrast between the planks. 
I spaced the planks 0.5mm apart and simulated the nails with a soft pencil prior to varnishing with a satin varnish.
 

 
In hindsight I wish I had only nailed at the plank ends but it's not a big enough deal to warrant redoing the work.
 
 
 
Next I glued the lower decks in place. They fitted very easily with only a minor amount of filing and sanding needed.
 


 

Hi All,
 
This will be my build log of the Bounty by Artesania Latina.
 
It’s my first build log and I’m looking forward to sharing my journey with you.
 
A little about me – I’m Paul and I live in Reading in the UK. This will be my third build, previously having built the HMS Endeavour Bark (not completed) and the King of the Mississippi, both by Artesania Latina. I enjoy being challenged which is why I’ve chosen to take on the Bounty as my next build. I appreciate that this is a complicated model to say the least. I’m not even sure my skills are up to it, especially when it comes to single planking the hull, but we shall see. To be quite honest, I don’t think I’d have taken this on without the help of some of the amazing builds on here as a reference point. Reading the build logs has given me a degree of confidence that help will be there when I come across problems. Special thanks to thomaslambo, Capt. Fisher, Captain Al, cobra1951 (I still can’t believe your Bounty got crushed!), bryanc, rcmdrvr and all the other Bounty builders on here whose amazing builds have been my inspiration to take this on. I’m looking forward to getting input and feedback from you all.
 
 
I actually started the build over Christmas and have been working on it for a few hours almost every weekend since, so I’ve already made some progress. I’ve been taking photos of every stage, but only now have I got round to starting this log. So I’ll be uploading some photos to bring things up to date.
So, here we go……
 
The kit contents:



 
 
 
Making a start, I separated and numbered the parts the parts for the main frame.
 
 

 
 
Then I stained all the parts with a Ronseal Walnut wood stain. It took 4 coats to get the colour I was after. 
A bit later in the build I'm going to veneer the exposed frames to hide the ply board appearance. 
 
 
 

 
 
 
Realising the importance of getting the frames absolutely level and parallel on this build, I did quite a bit of research into building slips.
I went for the Hobbyzone slip in the end and have found it to be a brilliant piece of kit. I'd highly recommend it to anyone considering using one.
So I set about leveling the frames and gluing them in place using Titebond.
 
 



 

Really nice work Grant....fairing and smoothing is always tedious but pays great dividends in the end 

Sounds good, I've spent many hours on RC groups and you're in good hands   

Hi Grant,
 
Great choice for a build, I'll be following your log with great interest.
 
This subject is right up my alley, as I've been racing Fast Electric (FE) boats for years and still hold three NAMBA National Records.
 
I love the Dumas Chris Craft models and it's just a matter of time until I build one.
 
The electronic components are really straight forward and fairly easy to install, you just need to make a decision very soon on your setup as several of the components take up quite a bit of room and need to be considered in the build (e.g. batteries, controller, motor, steering system, drive shaft, receiver, ect.)  
 
I know Dumas has setups for some of their boats but many FE people consider their power systems somewhat outdated and a bit over priced.  But in many cases they have plans for the installation so that may be of help.
 
Have you made any decision on the electronics?
 
Ok, here is an edit; I see the kit has running gear included (this is a good thing), now you just need to choose your electronics (motor, controller, battery and radio and receiver).  If you get the correct RC gear you won't need to run the antenna outside the hull as it's wood and won't interfere with the signal between the radio and receiver (no ugly antenna showing).
 
Good luck,
 
Boyd

Hi Bob,
 
Welcome to the AL Bounty builders club, and judging from you're very clean start I'm sure you'll have a beautiful build.  
 
Thanks for the kind words as well 
 
 
 
Hi John,
 
Thanks for stopping back in and I appreciate the compliments 
 
 
 

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 
 
Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 
 
 
Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 
 
 
Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.
 
As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  
 
 
For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18th century ships.
 
After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18th Century deck. 
 
The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.
 
I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).
 
Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  
 
 
Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:
 
 
Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;
 
I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.
 
Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 
 
The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 
 
I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.
 
Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  
 
I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.
 
 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 
 
 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install
 
 

Margin and Filler strakes installed
 
 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment
 
 
 
 
 
Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;
 
I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 
 
I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.
 
I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.
 
 
 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 
 
 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting
 
 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting
 
 
 
 
Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;
 
I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.
 
Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 
 
Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  
 
Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        
 
 
 

Stern Hook Planks
 
 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).
 
 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Installation;
 
Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   
 
I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).
 
Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.
 
Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  
 
Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).
 
 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.
 
 

Tree Nails Marked
 
 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Method Selection;
 
I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.
 
I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  
 
Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.
 
I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.
 
 
 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 
 
 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)
 
 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil
 
 
 
Here is the finished Deck Planking 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

Hi Keith,
 
I just found your amazing build, and what a great choice the Altair is (gotta love Schooners)....it'll be my pleasure to follow your progress 

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 
 
Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 
 
 
Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 
 
 
Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.
 
As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  
 
 
For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18th century ships.
 
After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18th Century deck. 
 
The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.
 
I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).
 
Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  
 
 
Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:
 
 
Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;
 
I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.
 
Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 
 
The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 
 
I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.
 
Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  
 
I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.
 
 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 
 
 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install
 
 

Margin and Filler strakes installed
 
 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment
 
 
 
 
 
Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;
 
I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 
 
I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.
 
I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.
 
 
 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 
 
 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting
 
 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting
 
 
 
 
Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;
 
I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.
 
Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 
 
Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  
 
Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        
 
 
 

Stern Hook Planks
 
 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).
 
 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Installation;
 
Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   
 
I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).
 
Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.
 
Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  
 
Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).
 
 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.
 
 

Tree Nails Marked
 
 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Method Selection;
 
I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.
 
I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  
 
Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.
 
I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.
 
 
 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 
 
 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)
 
 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil
 
 
 
Here is the finished Deck Planking 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

My apologies for missing your comments on my build log.  I've been distracted from this forum as a result of a few projects around the house, as well as our home business demands.
 
I really appreciate your kind words about my build, and I'm really not sure about your lower deck question. 
 
Here is a link to the steel angle plates (one of my favorite tools to ensure accurate/squared joints).  Link http://www.micromark.com/angle-plates-1-inch-and-2-inch-and-3-inch-set-of-3,7183.html
 
 
Also, I'll fail to complete the planking by the end of the year, so I'll try and post a few pictures of the progress as soon as possible....and thanks again to everyone for the continued interest in my build    

My apologies for missing your comments on my build log.  I've been distracted from this forum as a result of a few projects around the house, as well as our home business demands.
 
I really appreciate your kind words about my build, and I'm really not sure about your lower deck question. 
 
Here is a link to the steel angle plates (one of my favorite tools to ensure accurate/squared joints).  Link http://www.micromark.com/angle-plates-1-inch-and-2-inch-and-3-inch-set-of-3,7183.html
 
 
Also, I'll fail to complete the planking by the end of the year, so I'll try and post a few pictures of the progress as soon as possible....and thanks again to everyone for the continued interest in my build    

It's been over 8 weeks since I made a post on the log...so here comes a major update 
 
Main deck planking – and please forgive my lengthy narrative 
 
 
Before I begin I’d like to thank Chuck and Danny for their inspiring build logs as well as answering a few questions on 18th Century deck planking.  Also, thanks to Brian (GuntherMT) and Al (Captain Al) for your help and support 
 
 
Now that I’m starting the exterior (highly visible areas) of the ship I’m going to try and improve the quality of my build.
 
As such, I’ve replaced much of the AL kit supplied materials.  This includes the main deck and hull planking material, all the walnut material used for the masts and spars including the pre-cut pieces, the rigging ropes/lines, the cannons and carriages, and the stern lanterns.  
 
 
For starters I purchased Costello Boxwood from Crown Timberyard for the Main Deck.    I wanted harder wood and thicker planks to replace the 1mm soft Basswood that came in the kit.  This will allow me to better simulate methods used on many 18th century ships.
 
After some reading and several PM conversations with a few of the experienced builders here at MSW….I ended up constructing what I believe is something close to a typical 18th Century deck. 
 
The deck incorporates a Margin Strake with Scarph joints and commonly used Hook Planks to accommodate the major curves in the Bounty’s deck.
 
I used hand tools for almost all the work completed, with the exception of the curved Bow planks (used my Proxxon Scroll saw to rough cut the pieces from a Boxwood sheet).
 
Boxwood materials used: 5mm x 2mm strips used for the standard planks, 7mm to 10mm x 2mm strips used for the Margin, Waterway Filler and Hook Planks, and 2mm x (approx. 4 inch wide) sheets used for the curved bow sections of the Margin and Filler strakes.  
 
 
Here are the basic steps I took to complete the deck planking along with a few pictures:
 
 
Margin and Waterway Filler Strakes;
 
I began by installing the two outside most strakes, a Waterway Filler strake and the Margin strake.  I created cardboard templates for all the sections on both strakes and fitted them to the false deck.
 
Once I was happy with the template fit I cut the Waterway Filler and Margin strake pieces out of Boxwood strips and sheets. 
 
The Margin strakes have 3 sections on each side (held together with scarph joints), and the Waterway Filler has two planks on each side as it will be covered by a contoured Waterway strake after the deck is completed. 
 
I incorporated Hooked Scarph Joints on the Margin strake as this was standard practice in the 18th Century.  I first created hardwood templates for making the scarph joints.  This insured both sides of the joints were exactly the same shape.  I simply traced the template onto the plank ends and then cut them out with a razor saw and X-acto knive.  Then I carefully filed the pieces (using jewelers files) until they had a tight fit.
 
Once all the pieces were completed and fitted to my satisfaction I glued them in place (Waterway Filler first, then the Margin snugly up against it).  
 
I then laid out a grid pattern on the ply false deck to keep the planks aligned during installation.  The Port to Starboard lines are used to align the butt joints for the three shift of butts pattern, and the Bow to Stern lines are used to keep the strakes lined up evenly.
 
 

Tools used, Scarph template and rough cut Margin planks with penciled scarph joints ready to be cut out 
 
 

Margin Planks with Scarph joints cut out and ready for install
 
 

Margin and Filler strakes installed
 
 

Grid lines drawn in for planking alignment
 
 
 
 
 
Hook Plank Cutting and Fitting;
 
I calculated how many Hook Planks would be needed in the Bow and Stern (4 in the Bow - 2 on each side, and 12 in the Stern – 6 on each side). 
 
I then cut out cardboard templates for each hook plank.  Note; only 8 templates were needed to create 16 hook planks as the Port and Starboard planks were very close to the same size.
 
I used 10mm strips to cut out all the hook planks (using the template traced lines).  Once they were fitted to my satisfaction on each side I glued them up.
 
 
 

Tools used, and a couple Hook Plank templates with planks ready for cutting. 
 
 

Stern Hook Plank Fitting
 
 

Bow Hook Plank Fitting
 
 
 
 
Lay the Planks with #2B Pencil Simulated Tar lines;
 
I installed the hook and standard planks (24 feet or 6 inches to scale).  I used 5mm x 2mm planks and a couple of 6mm and 7mm planks in the center, which is fairly close to scale for about an 8 to 10 inch wide plank.
 
Note; every single plank laid on the main deck was beveled on at least one edge and many on both edges.  This is due to the curvature across the deck from port to starboard, and also to attain a tight fit between the strakes. 
 
Once the planks were cut and filed/sanded to shape I coated both edges with number 2B pencil (a method I saw in Chuck's build log) and then I glued them down with PVA.  
 
Also, I only glue the planks on the bottom (not on the edges)....as it allows the wood to expand and contract as the temperature and humidity changes        
 
 
 

Stern Hook Planks
 
 

Stern Hook Planks.  Note the wider King Plank in the center, I opted not to make it proud (raised) as it would cause issues with all the deck furniture.  The two planks on either side are wider as well...similar to Binder Planks but they're placed incorrectly (Binder Planks would be just outside the hatchways with no breaks in the strake other than butt joints).
 
 

Scarp Joint in the Margin 
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Installation;
 
Prior to laying out the Tree Nails I did some fairly heavy sanding with 120, 150, 200 and 400 grit sandpaper to prepare the deck for tree nail installation and finishing.   
 
I proceeded to carefully lay out the nail pattern on the deck with pencil and a ruler (holding the ruler in place with masking tape).  After I was satisfied with the pattern I used a sharp punch to set a very small starter hole for each tree nail.  Using a hand pen vice drill I then drilled over 600 holes (with a 0.64mm drill bit).
 
Final preparation was to remove any residue in the holes and then very slightly reaming the top of the hole with an Awl to clean up any ragged/fuzzy edges at the top of the holes.
 
Once I was ready to fill the holes I took great care to use as little filler as possible to fill the holes...trying to avoid getting the filler in between the planks.  
 
Then a bit of sanding with 400 grit to remove the excess filler.  Followed by a nice rub down with a clean cloth to prepare the surface for the Teak Oil (two coats did the job nicely).
 
 

Tools and material used for Tree Nails.  The X-acto makes a great putty knife.
 
 

Tree Nails Marked
 
 

Tree Nail Holes....Drilling begins on over 600 holes (note fuzzy edges on hole rims that need to be removed)
 
 
 
 
Tree Nail Method Selection;
 
I spent considerable time testing two different types of tree nail methods; 1) drilled holes filled with wood filler,  and 2) bamboo tree nails (using my Byrnes draw plate) stained and pressed into drilled holes.
 
I went with Chuck’s wood filler approach after testing 8 different colors.  I ended up using Elmer’s Golden Oak filler.  Reason I choose this method; to me the wood filler approach looks more subtle then the tree nail method….I just like the look better.  
 
Interesting to note that depending on the wood finish you’re using it can have a profound impact on the final color of any given wood filler.  I spent hours messing around with several finishes and different wood filler colors until I came up with the color I liked.
 
I ended up using my personal favorite wood treatment Teak Oil combined with Golden Oak wood filler.  Note, I was leaning toward Maple until I used the Teak Oil on the Golden Oak, it darkened it up to exactly what I was looking for.
 
 
 

Boxwood Un-treated (no finish) 
 
 

Boxwood Treated (with Teak Oil on left and Poly on the right)
 
 

Two favorite filler colors (Golden Oak and Maple) finished with Teak Oil
 
 
 
Here is the finished Deck Planking 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 

 
 

Hi Boyd,
Merry Christmas, Happy Guy Fakes!!
Good to catch up and nice to see your "Post."
 
Yup, we have a vested interest in your "Precision" build.
 
My two cents worth.
 
Cheers....HOF.

My apologies for missing your comments on my build log.  I've been distracted from this forum as a result of a few projects around the house, as well as our home business demands.
 
I really appreciate your kind words about my build, and I'm really not sure about your lower deck question. 
 
Here is a link to the steel angle plates (one of my favorite tools to ensure accurate/squared joints).  Link http://www.micromark.com/angle-plates-1-inch-and-2-inch-and-3-inch-set-of-3,7183.html
 
 
Also, I'll fail to complete the planking by the end of the year, so I'll try and post a few pictures of the progress as soon as possible....and thanks again to everyone for the continued interest in my build