thomaslambo

Guys,
 
This really helps clarify the term as I was struggling with the concept here on MSW.  
 
I also have RC model airplane and model railroad experience so I was trying to make the connection with the logs I've seen titled "Kit Bashed" (that remained basically the same ship - with extreme details added).
 
I'm new to wooden ship building and already know after starting my first build log that more than likely I'll end up in kit bashing country....just to much opportunity to raise the bar with these kits.
 
FYI - I've seen many of you guys posts and build logs....thanks for the contribution.
 
And thanks much for the explanations 
 
Boyd
 
 
 
 

Alright, finely got my four-jaw chuck in the mail today and immediately headed to the ship yard to turn some 5mm x 5mm square walnut stock.
 
Well, I think I hit pay dirt with this version of the Pillar Chock....loving the square supports and Matt's suggestion of adding Iron Bands.
 
Maybe add a few nails on the bands to polish it off......what do you guys think?
 
Boyd 
 

 

Guys,
 
I turned four more chocks and so far I like the one in the last two pictures best as it's more rustic and less refined in shape.
 
What do you guys think, I would go with walnut with any of the shapes in the first picture? 
 
The three tan ones look to refined for an 18th century ship to me.  
 
Also, the one in the ship turned from walnut is a smaller diameter (5mm as opposed to the 6 mm).  
 
I'm definitely going with Walnut, just need to close on the final design/shape. 
 
I'll do one more round of test cuts with square Walnut stock to see how square bases and heads look.
 
I know this seems like a lot of work for one chock but the fact is I'm going to place 8 -10 of them on the lower and middle decks....so I think it will add another nice touch of character to the model.
 

The two on the left were the first tests, the middle three are new, and the one on the right is something like what the instructions suggest.
 

Here is the last one I did and like the most (color is good and the shape is more rustic).
 

Another view.

Some additional work I did in preparation for the middle deck install (gave me a chance to use several of my power tools):
 
First, I went ahead and added wood dowels on the middle deck support beam/frame joints.  As noted in an earlier post I really think these joints are weak do to so little gluing surface area, so a little strengthening won't hurt (all 24 joints - inserted a 2mm dowel, set about one half inch deep at a slight angle).
 
Note; the Dremel Stylus tool in the picture below; it's without question one of the best tools I ever invested in….it allows precision work with the gun grip and light weight design.  I was able to drill the dowel pilot holes by free hand with the Stylus….using a small starter hole (set with a pin drill) to keep the drill from wandering off the mark.  I then cut off the dowel with my razor saw and cleaned up the joint with my nifty little Proxxon pin sander (love this thing as it’s easy and efficient).
 
 
Second, I broke out my DB 250 Lathe and played around with making some “Pillar Chock” replacements (instructions call for rounding off a piece of 5mm x 5mm walnut supplied stock).  Thought I might “kick it up a notch” with some fancy Pillar Chock’s.  Note; I haven’t installed them yet…still editing at press time on the best looking design.  When I settle on the design I'll build a template to duplicate a half dozen of them.
 
 
Third, I went ahead and started staining and painting the middle deck pieces in preparation for planking.  I’m going to stay with the same method as the lower decks (black paint and gap for tar, along with an awl and sharpie for treenails). 
 
 
However, I’m going to change methods on the main deck.  I was so impressed with Chuck’s method for simulating tar and treenails (#2 pencil, and drilling and filling holes with putty) I decided I’m going to give it a try.
 
 

Keep in mind this is not about scale (you'll never see these dowels)...so I used a larger diameter for strength
 

Dremel Stylus cut the pilot holes free hand with this tool
 

Nice little pin sander that is easy and efficient...it melts wood like butter so be careful
 
 

My new Proxxon DB250 Lathe...been waiting to use this little gem...love the way you can feed a whole piece of stock through it  
 
 

First (free hand no template) test version of a fancy chock dry fitted so I can check the look out 
 

I didn't realize the value of closeup HD pictures of your work, as it allows you to check details you normally might miss with the naked eye. I'm thinking I need to stain the chocks darker to match the door frames and possibly need to close the gaps between the facade wall and the beams.....I show'ed this to The Admiral and she said "you gotta be kidding, you're off the chart anal"     
 
 

Second version of a fancy chock 
 

I'm thinking about using square walnut stock so the top and bottom moldings are square as opposed to round, not to mention the color will match   
 
 

Middle deck stain (bottom side)
 

Middle deck black paint to simulate tar

On to the lower deck cabin additions…. not included in the instructions.
 
As a reminder for people that may not be familiar with this particular version of the Bounty; the model leaves the starboard side of the ship open for viewing.
 
So, this is when I did some simple scratch work to design and install some additional cabins in the lower stern and bow areas.  My ideas came from some of The Anatomy drawings (see the Bounty diagram images below) as well as pictures of other AL Bounty builds.  It took some time but I think it was well worth the effort. 
 
As I was designing the additions I wondered why AL didn’t expand on the interior details of the model as there is quite a bit of open space for making creative additions.  Perhaps they left the opportunity open for the builder to take their own poetic license 
 
Also, one other added benefit to adding cabins on both lower decks is you can fill the space behind them with filler blocks between the frames to aid in the very difficult hull planking process (particularly in the Bow and Stern areas).  The filler blocks will be hidden by the cabin walls    
 
Steps I took to design, build and install the cabins:
 
I first cut out templates for the wood façades and bulkheads/side walls (Bow and Stern) and carefully fit them to the space including cutouts for the overhead cross beams.
 
Then I spent some time laying out the design and look of the cabin facades.
 
Once I was happy with the templates and design style I cut out the wood parts using some birch panels I had left over from a previous RC airplane build.
 
Then I paneled the front side of each façade with the same planking used for the decks.  And then added the door frames, door handles and floor moulding.
 
On the stern cabins I left the middle cabin open for viewing some furniture I plan to put in the room.  The inside of each side wall was also paneled with planking.
 
Then I did one last fit to be sure everything was tight, squared everything up with angle blocks and glued in all the parts (facades and side walls).
 
Note; I used 1/4 x 1/4 inch supports across the back side of the facades that should insure they stay in place securely.  
 
 

Bounty lower decks
 

Bounty side profile
 
 

Template laid over birch ply - decided to extend the wall a bit
 
 

Bow wood facade being fitted
 

Stern wood facade being fitted
 
 
 

Another fitting in the stern prior to adding door handles and install
 

Another fitting in the bow prior to adding door handles and install
 

Gluing up the bow facade using angle blocks to keep it level 
 
 

Installed cabins in stern (just need to add the furniture pieces) 
 
 

 
 

Note the side walls in the stern middle cabin - inside walls have been planked like the cabin front
 

 
 
At this point I'm going to add the pins/dowels to each of the frame/beam joints for extra strength.
 
And then I'll check the alignment again of the main, middle and lower decks with the fore, main and mizzen masts, as well as bilge pipes and all the stanchions that drop below the main deck.....then on to installing the middle deck.
 
 
Stay tuned......

Now I moved on to building and installing the “hold well”.
 
First; I think it’s interesting that much of the AL HMS Bounty model is quite accurate and one example is the hold well.  You can see it in the design diagram from The Anatomy book I included in the first pic.  Also, take note of the stern and bow cabins on the lower decks (in my next post I’ll detail the addition of six cabins in the diagram…a bit of scratch building).
 
I paneled five of the six hold well panel sides per instructions (the backside of the middle panel is out of view), as well as the hold well box pieces that end up mounting on the right side panel.
 
Note the 1mm cut/gap on the inside of each panel of the hold well to allow the panels to fit snugly with the center panel (similar to a tongue and grove joint).
 
I also installed veneer end pieces to cover up the ply edges that are in view on both of the side panels and hold well box lid (edged the ends with some left over planking pieces).
 
One last change was to use simulated nail holes on the planked panels instead of the brass nails included in the kit (I just didn’t care for the look of the brass nail heads included in the kit).   
 
I also blackened both of the brass pieces provided in the kit for the door knobs and well box handle.  In addition, I shortened the diameter of the brass loops to try and make them closer to scale.
 
I then installed all three finished panels as well as the hold well box in the following order:
 
1  On the work bench; I glued the left side panel to the middle panel making sure it was perfectly squared up.
 
2  Did a careful dry fit of all three panels in the ship to be sure the fit was good (not much adjustment needed – so far the laser cuts have been very accurate).
 
3  Then I installed the left and middle panels to the keel and frames with the left panel butted up against the stern deck and the middle cross beam on frame 35. Making sure I aligned the position as to allow the right side panel to fit cleanly.
 
4   I glued the hold well box to the outside of the right panel and then glued it in the ship to complete the hold well install (note; the right panel is set at a slight angle from top to bottom by design – you can see it in The Anatomy diagram).
 
5   After taking all the pics and downsizing them, I noticed I had left off the hold box lid handle (same parts as the door knobs).  This was a quick and easy fix due to easy access to the hold box.
 
Note; in the last two pics you’ll see part of the stern cabin addition in place for fitting purposes.  You can see the lower deck stern cabins in the diagram below.  I’ll detail the lower deck cabin additions in the next post.
 
 

Diagram from The Anatomy - note the hold well at an angle (no 50 & 51 near the main mast) and stern and bow lower deck cabins
 

Hold well sides have been paneled and simulated nail holes added 
 

Hold well box paneled
 

 

Note the trim to cover the ply edge
 

 

Glue up the left and middle panels on the bench 
 

Hold well installed.  Note both edges of the side panels have been veneered to cover the ply edge.
 

 
 

Note the dry fit of stern cabin facade. Also, see the notches cut for the bilge pipes in frame 34's cross beam.    
 

 
 
 
Stay tuned for lower deck cabin additions (a bit of scratch building)…..

One other item I've been playing around with are the door knobs (if that's what you call them).
 
I don't much like anything brass on the ship, and the AL kit comes with two brass pieces that make up the suggested door knobs.
 
Take a look at the picture below and let me know what you think (note; in both pics the end ring has been slightly reduced in diameter to try and make it closer to scale).
 
The door on the left is the stock brass color that most people used on their AL Bounty model.
 
The door on the right has the same brass pieces that I blackened.
 
I'm not sure about what kind of hardware was used on the Bounty (or any 18th century ship) and what color it was.
 
Any opinions on the two I show in the picture would be appreciated (which color do you think looks best)?
 
 
Thanks
 
Boyd
 
 
 

Install the middle deck cross beam supports.
 
Normally I wouldn’t have spent much time discussing this step because it’s quite straight forward (cut the beam to length and glue it into the frame).
 
However, as I cut and glued in the cross beam supports it really brought my attention to how flexible (probably flimsy is a better word) the frames are on this model.
 
When you think about it; most of the model ships use a POB design which is quite strong in comparison to this POF model (which is due to the open hull design).  The AL Bounty only has 15 frames and three decks (2 of which are partial decks that don’t meet all the frame sides).  As a comparison, the real Bounty had close to 90 frames according to The Anatomy diagrams.
 
Now I realize this model will never see the ocean and heavy seas, but none the less I think a little extra effort can help shore things up a bit.
 
As such, I’m going to add pins to the joints by drilling pilot holes at a slight angle from the top of the beam into each frame and insert wood dowels coated with glue for good measures.
 
This should tighten things up a bit and help keep everything in tact during the fairing/planking/sanding process. It shouldn't take more than a couple hours to complete this step.   
 
I’ll install the dowels just before I lay the middle decks as I need to work without several of the cross beams in place while I install my lower deck modifications (i.e. 6 cabin additions in the lower Bow and Stern decks – I’ll describe this activity in a future post).
 
And the last item was to install the remaining stern supports.
 
 

Bow cross beam supports glued in
 
 

Also note the four clamps on the bow (gluing in the under deck cross beam) 
 
 

Finished cross beams on the stern
 
 

Stern supports glued in
 
 
And in case you're wondering; I didn't realize I'd need to remove some of the cross beams to complete the cabin additions until I started fitting the templates and cabin facades onto the lower decks (the reason why I had to hold off on installing the pins in the beam/frame joints). 
 
 
 
Stay tuned for the “hold well” installation…..

Next up, the lower deck planking and installation.
 
I planked all four of the bottom deck halves at the same time as I was on a roll and wanted to get that stage finished.
 
First I stained both sides of the false decks and then I painted the top side black to simulate tar (I looked at several methods of simulating tar and choose this one because I think it looks fairly good and it’s clean and easy to do).
 
I used a two-step shift of butts pattern for the lower decks.
 
I marked lines between the frames on the deck and proceeded to lay each plank row individually over the black painted surface.  After I glued each row of planks in place I carefully spaced the planks with the edge of the X-acto triangle square (.5mm gap), also using it to remove any excess glue that crept into the gap after I pressed the planks down.  Note; I used a small paint brush to apply the glue so I had complete control over the amount of glue on the plank.
 
After I completed each half and it had dried for a period of time I laid the deck (plank side down) on a piece of wax paper and placed a weight on top and let it sit overnight.
 
Then I laid each deck (plank side down) on a cutting mat and used X-acto knifes (with brand new blades) to carefully cut away the excess planking.
 
At that point I went on to simulating nail holes. I debated about dowels but felt that would be overkill for the lower decks and went with the pencil/sharpie technique.
 
However, I’ll definitely plan to use bamboo/wood dowels on the main deck and hull planking (really not a big fan of using the brass nails supplied with the kit for the hull planking).
 
The last bit of work on the decks was to put a couple coats of clear matte polyurethane finish on the decks.
 
Then I installed/glued the four half deck pieces onto the cross beams (Bow and Stern).
 
 

Thought it would be nice to show a pic of the tools used for the planking 
 

My plank cutting device and also the right side of the deck planked and the color of the stain on the bottom side of the decks
 

Initial planking complete on the right side of the Bow deck (note the X-acto square used for spacing)
 

Both Bow and Stern lower decks are now complete along with simulated nail holes
 

Bow lower deck installed
 
 
Stay tuned for the installation of the middle deck cross beam supports…...
   
 

Next I assemble the keel and frames, and install the lower cross beam supports.
 
First, I included a few pictures of the instruction narratives, picture book and one of the part spec sheets so people can get a feel for what one has to work with when building this model (most instructions are fairly clear but a few seem to have lost something in the translation). 
 
However, between the above directions, the plan sheets, and closely reviewing a couple other AL Bounty build logs I’v been able to navigate the waters so far 
 
I glued in the fore and aft most frames (4 and 39) and their lower cross beams first to be able to use the middle deck as a template to check the alignment of the remaining frames (note; I also clamped a few middle level cross beam supports in to help further support the middle deck as I aligned and glued each of the frames). 
 
After I completed gluing frames 4 and 39 I installed the bow stiffeners and the stern fittings/stabilizers as it made sense to get that out of the way at this point.
 
Then I installed the fore, main and mizzen mast supports on the keel.
 
I then installed the rest of the bow and stern frames 5 – 10 and 33 – 38 on the keel using the same square and leveling technique used on the first two frames.
 
Lastly, I installed all the cross beam supports for the lower bow deck and the forward hold platform (bottom decks).
 
 
 

Here is a sample of a narrative, a picture from the book, and a spec part sheet.
 
 

Rear view of the aft most frame being glued in.
 
 

Side view of the aft most frame being glued in (combination of machinist blocks, a square and a level to align each frame).
 
 

Close up of the stern stiffeners 
 
 

Overhead view of the completed frame and keel with aft and bow stiffeners and stabilizers 
   

 
 

 
 
 
Stay tuned for planking the lower decks..... 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Hi Everyone,
 
This is my first build log so needless to say I’m looking forward to sharing my experience as well as getting some constructive feedback from some of the more experienced builders.
 
I choose the AL HMS Bounty kit because of the open hull design which I think will make a great display model.  Also, I enjoyed all the Mutiny on the Bounty films so that provided additional motivation.
 
I’ve spent time reading “The Armed Transport Bounty (The Anatomy)” which was recommended to me by one of the members (a great reference book for any Bounty model builder).
 
I plan to do extensive modifications to the kit (many based on The Anatomy book), adding many additional details as well as enhancing/upgrading existing ones.  I will also replace quite a bit of the supplied materials (e.g. Basswood and Walnut strips, Mast and Spar dowels, many deck furniture pieces, and most of the rigging lines/ropes, dead eyes, blocks, etc).  I will note these changes/additions as I move through each stage of the build.
 
Some might call this a "Kit Bash"....so call it what you will....  
 
 
 
A few details about this model:
 
Model: Artesania Latina HMS Bounty (AL22810)
Scale: 1:48
Length: 36.5 inches
Height: 27.75 inches
 
I included a token picture of the box and the contents. 
 
After a few hours of reading the instructions and checking inventory all the parts appear to be included (although I didn't pay much attention to the wood strips,dowels and rigging material as they will be replaced).  The quality of the materials and parts looks good to me (with a few minor exceptions) but what do I know.  And the laser cuts on the pre-cut parts look very clean and seem to fit nicely on a dry fit (e.g. keel, frames and ply decks).
                                                           
                                                           
 
                                                           
 
Pre-construction activity:
 
I believe in a solid foundation no matter what you’re building so I put together a build board first thing (as recommended in many build logs).
 
I took a piece of laminated shelving I had and fastened three clamps made from ply to hold the keel tightly in place along with a couple of “L” brackets to hold either end of the keel.  I’ll use weights and machinist blocks as I go along to support the keel and frames. 
 
I measured center on every frame and then checked each side to see if the height and width matched up.  Unfortunately, several measurements were off by a half to 1 millimeter on a few frames.  As such, I’ll definitely need to do some filing and shimming when the time comes.    
 
I also did a dry fit on the decks and they appear to fit quite nicely.
 
When dry assembling the keel and frames most of the joints were tight with the exception of a few which needed to be snugged up.  To get the frames nice and snug I used .5mm x 6mm shim pieces (.5 or less thickness x height of the notch on both sides to keep the frames centered).  
 
 
 

 
Build stand
 
 

 
Dry fit of frames and keel after I stained all the pieces (ended up using a Natural Walnut stain) 
 
 

 
Additional parts for the keel and frames were also stained

I must hold you responsible for leading me (an OCD family member) down the "Rabbit Hole of Obsessive Details". 
 
As such, I've been lost on the dark side for almost two weeks now without a single post on my log....however, when I do come up for air I think it will have been worth the time and effort.
 
Good luck on the horseshoes
 
Boyd 

I must hold you responsible for leading me (an OCD family member) down the "Rabbit Hole of Obsessive Details". 
 
As such, I've been lost on the dark side for almost two weeks now without a single post on my log....however, when I do come up for air I think it will have been worth the time and effort.
 
Good luck on the horseshoes
 
Boyd 

I must hold you responsible for leading me (an OCD family member) down the "Rabbit Hole of Obsessive Details". 
 
As such, I've been lost on the dark side for almost two weeks now without a single post on my log....however, when I do come up for air I think it will have been worth the time and effort.
 
Good luck on the horseshoes
 
Boyd 

Alright, finely got my four-jaw chuck in the mail today and immediately headed to the ship yard to turn some 5mm x 5mm square walnut stock.
 
Well, I think I hit pay dirt with this version of the Pillar Chock....loving the square supports and Matt's suggestion of adding Iron Bands.
 
Maybe add a few nails on the bands to polish it off......what do you guys think?
 
Boyd 
 

 

Hi Al,
 
I’ve been building models for years, mostly railroad, airplane and RC fast electric (FE) boats.
 
Carpentry has been a hobby of mine since I was a kid (my Dad taught me everything I know).  As such, I have quite an extensive work shop in the garage, and also a spare room in the house where I do much of my Bounty assembly. 
 
I did purchase the mini lathe and a pin sander in preparation for wooden ship building.  I love creating things out of wood so I’m no stranger to fabricating parts.
 
I suppose I may turn to the “Dark Side” eventually but it sure is nice to pull pre-cut keel and bulkhead parts from a kit and hit the floor running….
 
Stay with the rigging….as you know this ship building business is all about dividing and conquering (one careful step at a time – often times requiring much research).
 
I was born and raised in Southern California….I live in the San Gabriel Valley (about 15 minutes east of the Pasadena Rose Bowl - go UCLA Bruins).
 
Thanks for the support and stay tuned….I’m finishing off some details down below and will start laying the planking on the middle decks over the weekend
 
    Boyd

Thanks much for the positive comments and ideas.....keep them coming.
 
Just finished three hours of middle deck planking....time for a double portion of rum    

CaptainSteve,
 
Great idea on the inside lighting. 
 
This could be a nice effect for my open hull Bounty....I think I'll ponder on the subject...it'll need to be very subtle  
 
Boyd

CaptainSteve,
 
Thanks much for the information and suggestions.
 
I plan to get some more sail material to place in the hold of the Bounty.  I'll get enough so I can do some testing....and at some point I'll post the results.
 
Boyd

Nils,
 
Simply amazing work......and you're very close to the end of your journey (almost 2 years in the making).
 
Great tips with the mini blow torch....I've used them along with irons for many years on other types of models.
 
Thanks for the kind words on my build.....and some day I'll get to rigging it 
 
Boyd

CaptainSteve,
 
Great idea on the inside lighting. 
 
This could be a nice effect for my open hull Bounty....I think I'll ponder on the subject...it'll need to be very subtle  
 
Boyd

CaptainSteve,
 
Great idea on the inside lighting. 
 
This could be a nice effect for my open hull Bounty....I think I'll ponder on the subject...it'll need to be very subtle  
 
Boyd

I would agree, the same contrast on the deck would be a bit much....after seeing the level of creativity on your launch I'm sure you'll step out of the box topside with something special    

I would agree, the same contrast on the deck would be a bit much....after seeing the level of creativity on your launch I'm sure you'll step out of the box topside with something special    

I would agree, the same contrast on the deck would be a bit much....after seeing the level of creativity on your launch I'm sure you'll step out of the box topside with something special