mrshanks

When looking for that special red color used in period ships (i.e. red oxide), please consider the following paints:
 
Vallejo Acrylic - 985 - Hull Red (spec: FS30059 - RAL8017)
Tamiya Acrylic - XF-9 - Hull Red
Tamiya spray - TS-33 - Dull Red
 
These are all slightly different shades of this basic color.  Try it and see if you like any of them.  

Thank you Jason, and for the 'likes'
A rather satisfying day today  making the 'iron' work  for the Pinnace.
Ringbolts.
The kit provides  some small brass rings, three eyebolts, and a length of black painted steel wire.
I thought the rings too small, the eyebolts  too thin, and I didn't like the black steel wire.

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I fashioned the ringbolts from brass wire which was then chemically blackened.

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Forward rings in place.

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Aft lifting ring and Cockpit steps also in place in this shot.
 
Cockpit step
Although the profiles are provided in the kit for this little feature I found it took a fair bit of fettlin' to fit. I painted mine red as a contrast to the varnished decking.
 

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Stem Protector ( Iron Strip)
There are various options to making this; black card strip, styrene strip, or brass strip.

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I opted for Brass strip for which some spare brass fret from etched fittings was used. The shape was formed over the stem and the bolt holes for the strip were marked on the anvil and then drilled thro' using a micro drill in a pin vise.

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This was then also chemically blackened.

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I started the fitting by using ca to fix the strip to the shaped inner side of the stem.
Bolts were represented by blackened Amati fine brass 10mm nails cut down to suit.

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With the aft side fixed a smear of ca plus the bolts were used to fix the fore side of the strip.
B.E.
 
 

She really is looking good. Nice job on the iron work

Working out a strategy for panelling
For this I am using 1.8mm x 0.7mm Boxwood strip given a profile using the blade I used for the decorative profile on the Cap rail edge.
My approach is to cut a rectangle of Boxwood strip to the appropriate internal size to use as a template around which to fit the moulding.

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The template is secured to a flat surface (in my case the top of my mini anvil) with double sided tape.
The moulding strips are then fitted around this and the mitres cut insitu.

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The moulding is glued at the corners and when dry carefully prized off.
The  four mouldings for the cockpit area were of a narrower  size to fit.

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Although only glued at the mitres the mouldings are surprisingly robust.

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The completed mouldings after varnish is applied.
I think that fitting them as complete units is easier than fitting them piecemeal on the boat.  A slightly different approach to the lower moulding around the bow deck which was fitted in one piece following wet and heat to create the curve. The sides and tops were then separately fitted.

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I was anticipating that the decorative panels would present a tricky exercise, but it turned out to be fairly straightforward.
B.E.
 

Thanks for the suggestions Jon and Dave! I have since install the bits on the deck and that's essentially what I did, but there were only two to worry about. Lining up the seven in the railing would have been a bit harder. I didn't substitute a very short piece of brass rod for the positioning, David, but I think that's a great idea for increased control.
David

I use that same technique, Jon.  For the initial placement I use a very short pin (1mm protruding) in the part to be placed so it can more accurately be situated.  After the hole is drilled l substitute a longer permanent pin for final attachment.  It works well.

Great solution, David!  The rails look great.  I'm ready to add the railings to Independence, and I've decided to build them on the model.  They have an added problem in that they are tapered.  Each baluster must match the others.  I'll take my time and hopefully it will turn out.  Keep up the great work!  BTW:  The headrails look great. also.  A million times better that the metal junk the kit provides.

After much trial and error, I finally wrestled these railings to the ground. The mistake I made was trying to build the railing off the model and then install it. As soon as I built the railing on the model my problems disappeared. I was trying to glue the top ends of the balusters against the underside of the top rail and was having plenty of problems keeping them straight and properly spaced and then how was I going to install it. Butt joints at the rail and against the deck didn't seem secure enough to me given that rigging is belayed to these rails (and remembering the issues I had with the rails on my Constitution.) But if I anchored the balusters to the deck with pieces of brass rod, I wasn't sure of my ability to line up and drill seven holes all in the right place.
So - my solution was this - the instructions call for 1.5 mm wood for the top rail. Instead I used a 1 mm strip and then attached a 1x1 mm strip along each length of the underside. This created a channel for the baluster to fit into, automatically lining them up and giving considerably more gluing surface. I then installed the two end balusters on the deck, drilling them and anchoring them with a piece of brass rod. Then I cut the remaining five balusters to length and with the top rail installed on the two end balusters I could slide the interior ones into place and locate them by eye. They're glued as well, but it's really the end two that provide the integrity for the structure. I'm pretty sure this will hold the belayed rigging without popping loose.
 
Now on to the railing around the bow, which I'll approach in a similar fashion.
 
David

I think I finally broke the code on making the dimensional stars having no success finding the right sizes. First I made a CAD drawing of the three sizes needed; 5/32", 3/16" and 1/4". I spray glued the paper pattern to a .005" brass sheet and then glued both to a 1/32" piece of plywood for support while sawing them out. I started with a pin in the large size but a pin would be too large for the smaller sizes so I then used .020" brass rod for the holding/locating pin in the center of each star. Each star was flood soldered with Staybrite solder after the perimeter was filed clean after sawing. Once painted the paint will be allowed to set before final filing and finishing up. I photograph the stars to see what needs tweaking since the human eye cannot see that fine. Her is a sequence showing the process and the final drilling pattern that will make the second set much easier to saw out. 
 

 

 

 

 

Here are the first set of stars and once all are to this stage and the paint has really set they will be fine tuned under magnification with a small file.

New drill hole pattern for the second set that will make it easier sawing.

 
Now onto the second set and finishing up some rigging now that I have hooks.

I spent some time rigging the studding booms, and I really like the results. The time taken was well worth the results.
 

 

 
I them moved on to rigging the small boats in their davits. After checking photos of the restored Constitution I realized that the gripes were leather straps. I then found in my automotive stash some goatskin leather that was used in cars seats. This leather is very thin and supple and after cutting 1/16" strips they were slightly stretched to set. Then brass rings were glued to each end after being cut to the length needed. 
 

 
Next I added the attachment points per the plans with eyebolts and rings as needed. For the sake of clarity in photographing the brass rings have not been darkened yet. Since I used the spreader rope the upper strap ends were attached to the end of the spreader rope.
Here are images of the results showing the three boats in various views.
 

 

 

 

 
Here is an overall stern side view.
 

 
Now back to finish up more details like rope coils for the belaying pins.
 

Thanks for the kind words! I have been busy with honey-do's so wrapped up some details like the bell and boarding pikes. I must be getting old; I had a note to add the pikes before adding the rigging lines and must lost the note or just plain had a brain fart. But I managed to get them in place. 
 

 

 

 

 

 
I have designed a Black Walnut base that I am working on while I make rope coils for belaying pins and ponder the Cat head faces.

Thank you all for your kind comments! Michael, my camera is a Nikon Coolpix S6000 nothing real special. I use the "Scene" setting for overall images and the "Flower" setting for close up no flash and auto focusing. Pay real attention to the auto focus red and green on close ups.
 
Here is the base finished up using 3/4" Black Walnut; fitting to the hull fore and aft and setting on the center keel was a slow tedious process. I incorporated a subtle wave element to support the center of the keel. Once fitted it was sprayed and sanded and sprayed again with Clear urethane. 
 

 

 

 
I worked on coils back and forth and still have a few more to do. I am glad I am making my own rope as needed so far I think I have used up about 40 feet of rope making coils and still not done. Here are some random pictures of the fixture I made using extra belaying pins as pegs which worked well. The major lesson I learned for future builds is to make sure there is clearance on the belaying pins and side rails they butt against. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here is a close up of the flag cleat.

 
Now back to more rope coils.
 
 

I'm going to follow this one too!

I am working on fairing the hull. I glued wood pieces ¼ inch square between each of the bulkheads to provide more stability and firmness. Without these the bulkheads would move slightly as I sanded them. I know some folks use larger pieces but the quarter inch square does the job, and it was easier to cut to the exact length between bulkheads so they could be installed without pushing bulkheads out of “square”. If I find that I need more stability, I will add more of these.
 
This build will require a LOT of sanding – not just to fair the hull, but also to reduce the thickness of the bulwarks from the inside and much more. I am using 3M 120 grit and find that it works very well.
 
Also, I splurged and purchased the brass cannon from Syren Ship Model Company, as well as the ships wheel (two). They are in the mail but have not yet been delivered. When they do, I will take some pictures comparing the Syren stuff with that provided in the kit.
 
 

SHEAVES
I have to run the sheet lines through the bulwarks. The plans call for the installation of sheaves. I understand that a sheave is a rectangular box with a pulley inside that the rope slides on. Giving this some thought, and after reviewing some build logs to see how other shipwrights have handled this challenge, I decided to forego installing a pulley wheel in my sheaves. The scale is just too small.
So I compromised. I took some “U” shaped wood stock and cut small pieces off (1 mm). I decided to cut rectangular holes in the side of my ship and insert the chips. I then ran the sheet lines through the channel. When I was done, I have to say it looks like the rope is suspended in the box as if it would if a pulley was indeed installed.
By the way, drilling holes and carving out a rectangular shape in your hull AFTER you have done all of the rigging and installed all of the yards is not recommended. Cutting the hole in the outer hull was ok, but do that on the inside, by reaching through all of the rigging lines, was incredibly delicate.
Hint to fellow Niagara builders.  If you are going to install sheaves, DO IT BEFORE YOU STEP THE MASTS AND DO ANY RIGGING.
This exercise took all evening, and I have 5 more to do.  It looks like it is going to be a “Sheave” week.
 
 
I STARTED BY DRILLING A HOLE THROUGH THE ENTIRE BULWARK, AND THEN CARVED A RECTANGULAR SHAPE WITH THE X-ACTO KNIFE. THE INSIDE BULWARK WAS A REAL "YOU KNOW WHAT"
 


 
 
 
I THEN TOOK A PIECE OF "U" SHAPED STOCK AND CUT 1MM CHIPS.


 
 
 
I BLACKEND IT WITH A SHARPIE. THE ENDGRAIN SOAKED UP THE INK NICELY.

 
 
 
I THEN INSERTED THE SHEAVES WITH A SMALL SPOT OF WOOD GLUE INTO THE SQUARE HOLES. AGAIN, INSTALLING THE INSIDE SHEAVE REQUIRED ME TO REACH THROUGH THE DECK AND RIGGING LINES. I HAD TO DETACH THE ROYAL BACK STAY TO GIVE MY FAT HAND ROOM.

 
 
 
THE FINAL PRODUCT. THE LINE RUNNING THROUGH THE "FAUX" SHEAVE IS ACCEPTABLE.

 
 
 
 

Got the stanchions done on the larboard side, mowed the yard, now taking a break.
 
Used the aluminum angle iron to make sure they were square.

 
I did bevel the bottom of the stanchions at the scuppers to give water easier drainage.
 

 

Final pics, lot 4
 
 










 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Final pics, lot 3
 
 

Final pics, lot 2
 
 

Project completed !
 
The 26 month duration journey has come to an end, and I would like to thank my international fellow builder freinds for following this build, for their suggestions and helpful comments along the way. 
All the appreciative and kind compliments have given me very much drive to get the project complete, in a way that I am myself satisfied with the result.
I´ll choose a representive bunch of pics for exponating into my gallery in a couple of days.
 
Here come the final photos of the ship as built and in a large set of four lots, and without comments as all pics are self explaining.....
I made a few more detail shots for all those that like details. The only thing missing are the rudder blades and the tillers for the the open lifeboats (paint was`nt dry yet), but I`ll get them on before the KWdG goes into her glass case
 
Nils
 
Final pics, lot 1
 
 
 

Igor,
thank you very much for your words,.....
I am momentarily doing the last little bits in fitting out...
now the benches on the upper decks are on and also the radio aerial wires (antenna). The three story staples of collapsible boats have received securing holding down chains, and I`ve started to fit rope coils to the davit fall belaying cleats...
 
Will still have to do all the flags and some rigging (pulleys, blocks and hooks ) to the cargo load beams and to the winches...., but now its all not long any more
 
Nils
 

this pic was taken with a flash, that really shows up the dust again settled on the detail surfaces
 

aditional benches for passengers enjoying the sun and the salty sea air
 

 
 

Acc. to my information the KWdG was the first German civil oceanliner to be equipped with sea surface radio (operated by Marconi operators)
 

 
 

 
 

chains lashing down the boat staples....
 

 
 

the antenna wires lead down to the radiostation booth (oerated by Marconi officers)
 
 
 

Amazing work!  I wonder if you could have fit this saw in that space?  I purchased it from a company in Japan (took 2 weeks to arrive) and it is a dream to use!  Here's a link to Clare Hess' blog about the saw and how to buy it:  https://shipmodeler.wordpress.com/2015/05/19/a-super-fine-cut-japanese-hobby-saw-hishika-industries/

Your rigging is very impressive. You are a very brave man with that dremel, good call on the bumpkins. Nice work

BUMPKINS/BOOMKINS
Thanks to the responses from fellow forum members, and particularly Jerry, I found the answer to my question regarding the tie off for my forward tack lines. The actual ship is equipped with stubby bumpkins. I looked over the plans last night, and they make no reference to the bumkins. So, based on the photo that Jerry was able to provide, I created some.
I first had to cut a slot in the Chock Rail. Not an easy thing to do on a fully rigged ship. I could not find room to use my jewelers saw, and the cherry wood was too hard to cut with an x-acto knife. I elected to pull out my dremel with a rotary diamond cutter. That was scary. It fit in there, but one slip, and I could wipe out an entire month of rigging. Luckily, I was able to cut the slot, and NOTHING ELSE!
I then fabricated the bumpkins out of cherry square stock. I chamfered the end and beveled the back to make it look better. I then stropped a 5/32 block to an eyebolt and seized it to the end of the bumpkins and then glued it to the ship. I then attached a cleat to the inside of the bulwark to finish it up.
Don't try this at home.

 
The slot for the Bumpkin

 
I used some square cherry stock for the bumpkin. The design is based on a photo of the original ship, which is not very clear, so this is pretty much what I thought it should look like.

 
A couple of coats of tung oil and I drilled a hole and inserted the 5/32 single block.

 
Installed on the ship

 
Stropping the tack line to the Sheet block

 
Rigged

 
Final assembly. Today, I will have to cut some sheaves in the bulwarks and belay the sheet lines on eyebolts.

Hello all, first up Thanks for all your visits, likes and gracious comments. Trabakul now has a new home on the dining room table as rigging has started and there is less chance of her getting hurt and even a less of a chance of me using the table to entertain.

 
 Bowsprit was first, this the little fitting made to hold it in place
 


 
The little supports on either side and a strap with rings( I used eyebolts)
 


 
Chain installed
 



 

 
Lower shrouds completed
 

 
 Next up is the upper shrouds and then ratlines.
 Enjoy and Take care