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GaryKap

USF Confederacy by GaryKap – Model Shipways – scale 1:64

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I selected “Confederacy” as my next build. I was extremely impressed by the design quality of “SYREN” and building her was so enjoyable that I wanted something similar, and hope I have found it. I was aware of other build log reports of poor quality plywood supplied in the kit for the bulkheads and bulkhead former and was very pleased by the excellent quality that was provided – perfectly flat and very sound and strong. All other components appear to be good as well. The cannon castings are a bit rough but workable. Plan “B” is to order the good stuff from Chuck.

 

I have glued the two halves of the bulkhead former (under two sheets of glass) and the glue is now “curing”. I invite you to pull up a chair and join in. I would especially appreciate comments from other “Confederacy” builders. I have visited all other build logs that I could find and have learned from each of them.

 

 

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Welcome aboard Steve and Nirvana. Rafine, Jay and Duncbe, thanks for the “likes”. Today I pre-bent the rabbet strip using the piece of plywood that the forward bulkhed former came from. I then installed the rabbet strip (see photos). I am using Titebond III glue and am happy with it so far. I experimented first and made sure that it was soluble using denatured alcohol.

 

I then cleaned most of the laser char from the seven pieces that make up the stem assembly, and put a coat of Minwax Golden Oak stain on them. I did this to prevent glue marks when I put the pieces together. The bulkhead former is tightly clamped into the vice to keep it straight as an arrow. After the stain is allowed to dry I will do the assembly and of course sand and taper the stem.

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first staining of stem assembly pieces.jpg

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Thanks to Dubz build log, I was made aware of the problem with the stem assembly. Yup, mine has the same problem. Oversimplified, the S1 – S3 part is approximately 1/8 inch too long. My solution was to shorten both parts equally where they meet at the scarf joint. (this has to be done carefully and in small increments). I then glued the S1-S3 parts making sure they matched the curve of the bow. When the glue set, I added the other parts. After the glue sets, I will taper the assembly. (Instruction Manual Ch. 1 p. 3). Here is a link to the color version of Chapter One in case anyone wants to follow along:

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Confed/chapter1.pdf

 

 

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Hi JohnB40 – Welcome. I hope you start a build log as well so we can swap ideas. And thanks for the “likes”. Chuck, I hope you will provide guidance whenever you think it is needed. Rafine, good to have you aboard as always.

 

Today I tapered the stem assembly. The key thing here is to make the assembly narrow enough to fit between the figurehead guy's legs. I also did some filing on the figurehead to do the final fitting. Then I sanded the assembly with 320 grit sandpaper and re-stained with Minwax Golden Oak.

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Hi Gary,

Great details in your log. The pictures against the plans work well--and the instructions are a real help for this newcomer.  

I'm in.  I'll be the guy in the back standing on the chair.  

 

Best regards,

 

Mark

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Hi Mark -

 

Thanks for joining in, and welcome.  I appreciate your kind words.  One nice thing about doing a build log is that it forces me to do a more careful job, what with others looking over my shoulder.  Left to my own devices I can get pretty sloppy...  

 

<<Gary>>

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I added the stem assembly and the keel to the bulkhead former. I did some fractional arithmetic: the bulkhead former is 3/8” thick and the keel & stem are ¼ inch thick. To position the stem and keel exactly in the center of the bulkhead former requires a spacing of 1/32” on either side. And I just happened to have a sheet of 1/32” thick wood left over from another kit. I used my glass sheet to do the gluing. Laid the bulkhead former on top of the 1/32 sheet and positioned the stem and keel parts against it. Used masking tape to hold the parts tight together while the glue set up. And voila!!!

 

When the glue had cured, I dry-fitted the bulkheads into the slots in the former. Every bulkhead slid snugly into place with no “fitting” needed. And then with all the bulkheads in place, it HIT me – this is a REALLY BIG ship model! I had worried unnecessarily about the vertical alignment of the bulkheads. Apparently the laser cuts were precise enough that the alignment was perfect. I checked this with a ¼” x 1/16” x 24” strip of wood laid across the deck and confirmed a smooth run from bow to stern.

 

 

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Hi Gary.

Nice build.. gonna follow along with this one.

Lots of bulkheads to help with the planking.. 

Can I ask... what are the cutouts just below the waterline in the bulkheads  .In the last photo for ?.

 

Regards Antony.

 

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Hi Antony, and welcome.  The cutouts you mention will represent a cut-away section of the hull to show how a ship from this time period was framed.  Eventually there will be exposed frames or "ribs" here with a shadow box effect behind them...but that will happen in the next chapter.

 

Thanks all for the "likes".  They are appreciated and give me encouragement.

 

<<Gary>>

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Welcome to the Confederacy crew Gary. I'm a bit ahead of you, working on the wales. I took a break from the hull construction and made the ship's wheel (Chuck's stuff) and the stove. After the Syren, Confederacy is, in deed, a large project. 

You're doing a nice job on producing your log too, pictures are first rate.

Enjoy the adventure

 

Regards, HarleyDSC_0066.thumb.JPG.05b6af69034e13c3d935b581f4c951c8.JPG

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Hello Ben and Harley.  Harley, you are several months ahead of me.  Your build looks very good - I hope I can do nearly as well.  I will most likely use Chuck's kit for my ship's wheel too.  I used the cast wheel provided in the SYREN kit and had just installed it when Chuck announced his wheel kits.  In hindsight I wish I had gone to the trouble of removing the cast wheel and going with the kit.  I think small details like this make a big difference in the finished model.  And when so many hours are invested, why not make it as good as you can?  Thanks for your kind words and please drop by often and feel free to offer suggestions.

 

<<Gary>>

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I am now working from Chapter 2 of the Instruction Manual. Here is the link:

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Confed/chapter2.pdf

 

I glued the bulkheads and fillers, and also the bow fillers. I also made and installed the “optional safety timbers” for the bulkhead extensions. The plywood for the bulkheads appears to be of very good quality and quite strong, but my clumsy hands can make a mess...might as well be safe. I made mine from two pieces each – a 3/16 x 3x16 to fit between the bulkhead extensions and a 1/16 x 3/16 piece to fit on top. For me, this was easier than notching the one piece. With these sitting on the bulkheads, I glued two 1/16 x 3/4 strips on top to provide stability fore to aft. When I fair the hull, each of the bulkhead extensions will be fixed to the safety timbers with masking tape. This should make for a nice solid unit that will sand and fair well.

 

<<Gary>>

 

 

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Gary,

That is a brilliant idea for temporarily reinforcing the bulkhead extensions. Your construction is proceeding very nicely indeed.

I contacted John at Model Expo about the plywood in my kit and he said new material would be shipped...  I will start my build log when it arrives. It will be nice to have building log still in the somewhat early stages of construction to check in on about what lies ahead.

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Hello Doc, and welcome aboard.  It is going to be a long voyage.

 

John, I'm glad that John Garcia was able to help you out.  By the way, be sure to inventory the parts of your kit.  I found that three of the different sizes of wood strips were missing from mine.  I have been communicating with John but have not been told they have shipped yet.  Thanks for your kind words, but the credit goes to Chuck Passaro - it is in his instruction manual - but I just modified it a bit.

 

I recently acquired a copy of the book "Ships of the American Revolution and their models" by Harold Hahn.  Chapter 5 is devoted to the Confederacy with a lot of historical information and also Hahn's insight into constructing the model.  I would highly recommend it to any Confederacy modeler.  I suspect that Chuck drew heavily from it when designing the Model Shipways kit...plus of course the original Admiralty Draughts.

 

<<Gary>>

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I am working on fairing the hull. I glued wood pieces ¼ inch square between each of the bulkheads to provide more stability and firmness. Without these the bulkheads would move slightly as I sanded them. I know some folks use larger pieces but the quarter inch square does the job, and it was easier to cut to the exact length between bulkheads so they could be installed without pushing bulkheads out of “square”. If I find that I need more stability, I will add more of these.

 

This build will require a LOT of sanding – not just to fair the hull, but also to reduce the thickness of the bulwarks from the inside and much more. I am using 3M 120 grit and find that it works very well.

 

Also, I splurged and purchased the brass cannon from Syren Ship Model Company, as well as the ships wheel (two). They are in the mail but have not yet been delivered. When they do, I will take some pictures comparing the Syren stuff with that provided in the kit.

 

 

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Like your style Gary. "Engineering" the safety timbers like you did instead of just squeezing some scrap wood in the frames shows me your

Confederacy is in good hands and has a bright future.

Cheers, Harley

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Still working from Chapter 2. I have been fairing the hull but am not yet satisfied – especially at the bow and stern. I did take note of Dubz' warning about fairing bulkheads 8 and 7 on the bottom of page one of his build log. He did such a great job documenting how he framed the stern that I would recommend all Confederacy builders study it carefully. I did do the easy things; planking the sub-gun deck platforms and assembling the ship's frames for the cut-away. I plan to continue working on fairing the hull until I work up the courage to start framing the stern. Harley, thank you for vote of confidence.

 

The brass cannon and ship's wheel that I ordered from Syren Model Ship Company arrived in the mail, but the Admiral confiscated them immediately for something to give me for my birthday.

 

I am STILL waiting on Model Expo to send the wood strips that were missing from the kit. I first requested the missing parts on July 29th. I noticed that some other build logs report frustration as well.

 

What's the difference between a brig and a frigate?  See the pictures below - especially you SYREN builders.

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Edited by GaryKap

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Hi Jim -

There are pluses and minuses to her large size.  Much more work constructing her...but isn't that our hobby?  ( I discovered that I gain more pleasure from BUILDING model ships than I do from OWNING them once they are finished)  And - the finished Confederacy model demands less space than the finished Syren.  They are about the same length, but the Admiralty style Confederacy is not as wide as the spars on Syren, and with no masts or rigging, Confederacy will fit on a shelf.  In my case she will go on a window seat.

 

Thanks to all for the "likes" on my last post.  Always nice to get.  Also nice to get was the package that came in today's mail from Model Expo with the parts that were missing from the kit.  It restores my faith in them and in John Garcia especially.  The missing parts were three "bundles" of strip wood of various dimensions.  The replacements arrived with labels on each bundle with the part number and number of pieces in each. 

 

I am still working on fairing the hull.  I found that a piece of one inch diameter dowel with 120 grit sandpaper wrapped around it is perfect for sanding the curves - bow, stern, and tumble home.  I have also spent time strategising on how to construct the stern framing.  I will share my ideas in a future post.

 

<<Gary>>

 

Edited by GaryKap

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Gary,

    As you are already following Dubz's (sp?) build log, I may not need to mention, but I will anyway.  Before you start planking, take a look at his log laser down the road.  He talks about how the markings on the bulkheads do not match the plans.  The result was that he had to strip all the planking, remeasure and re-plank.

   

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Even when knowing where it look it can be a challenge to find.  It's a pretty big log.  or some reason I don't see post numbers anymore.  Hopefully this will help you locate.  Here is the start of the thread.

 

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Hi Chuck -  I found the section you mention on Dubz' build log page 4 near the bottom continuing on the top of page 5.  I had seen it before, but will be sure to pay attention when I get to this stage.  As I understand the problem, I need to check the location of the laser marks on each bulkhead against their locations on Chuck's plans.  Chuck's plans are correct...the  laser marks may not be.  Thanks for looking out for me.  One of the things I appreciate about this web site is the friendly helpful advice and support from other builders.  And one of the things I appreciate about this hobby is that it keeps my mind active - I need to keep thinking things through and not just blindly following directions and gluing parts together.

Thanks again for your help.

 

<<Gary>>

Edited by GaryKap

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18 hours ago, Chuck Seiler said:

It's a pretty big log.  or some reason I don't see post numbers anymore.

Just use the share symbol do get a link directly to a post :-)

 

Cheers,

 

Dirk

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I am both fairing the hull (still) and starting to work on Chapter 3 Framing the Stern. Here is the link: http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Confed/chapter3.pdf

Most folks will agree that this step is one of the most difficult and complicated parts of model ship building. I think this is especially true for Confederacy because all of those laser cut windows need to fit, and the many pieces / parts must come together with precision. The first step in this is to glue in the six basswood stern frames. The slots that were laser cut into the most aft bulkhead help with this, but there is still wiggle room. To help precisely position them, I made a copy of the stern template and carefully cut out the five “spacers” that fit between the stern frames. I glued them onto 1/16” basswood and then trimmed the basswood to exact dimensions. I will use these to help define the correct vertical attitude of each stern frame as I glue it into place. These spacers will also help me locate where the sills and lintels for the stern windows will go. The stern frames are 1/8 inch thick, so I found a 1/8 X 1/8 strip of wood (leftover from previous builds) and superimposed these and the spacers I created over the stern template to make sure the fit was EXACT. I also checked measurements against the actual windows in the kit. The pictures are below.

 

I have given some thought to the issue of laser guidelines on the bulkheads maybe not matching Chuck's plans. I have been using a drafting compass to compare dimensions between bulkheads and plans and all seem to match. Dirk – which laser guidelines should I check most?

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Edited by GaryKap

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