Jeff-E

Happy birthday Anja, hope you are having a great day

Hi Jason, Thank you for your kind comments. The balsa fillers served a couple of purposes as you said to give more meat for the stern planks to stick to and so the stern would hold an even shape without any hills or hollows they also gave me some exrta surface to pin the planks to while they dried, although balsa is pretty soft and the pins don't always hold very well in it.

The next lot of photos show the completed first planking and the hull sanded I will post some more photos tomorrow.

Here are the second batch of pictures of the first planking.

Hello All, Here is the next lot of photos of the first planking. Being such a bluff bowed vessel the bow planks were tapered from the first plank laid underneath the bulwark strake. The stern planks were left full width until the hull stared to curve under towards the keel some drop planks and and stealers were added in the stern to keep the run of the planks true. I will post the second half of the first planking photos later.

Hi Jason, I've just had a look through both your builds.Very nice work on both of them. At the rate you build them you will probably have your next build, if it is the Norfolk, finished before I do

Hi Jason, Thanks for your comments and for looking in It will be interesting to see what they have changed , I do believe the instructions are now in colour and the plans are full size. Have you ordered the kit yet?

Hello everyone, After marking the and measuring the frames the next stage in the build was the first layer of planking. Anyone one who followwed Dan Vads build of this model on the old site will know that used scale plank lengths for both the first and second layer of planks, I have done the same . I found it eaiser to glue on and position the smaller lengths than trying to glue on a full length plank in one go without the glue going off. The length of the hull is approximatly 330mm from stem to stern along the keel so at a scale of 1:36 the longest plank could be about 200mm which equates to about 23ft. I used a 3 butt shift pattern to lay the planks. I followed Danny's log closely while laying the first layer of planks however his turned out a lot better than mine , but for for my first attempt at this method I was quite happy with the result . The first photos show the first bow plank fitted and the stern stealers. I will post some more pictures shortly.

:DHello All, Hi Danny and thank you for looking in and I will take you up on your offer of advice when needed The next stage was to fit the first plank which is to be positioned, according to the instrctions, 3.5mm below the the top of the frames. As i had already fitted the deck I measured from the top of the deck which is 1.5mm thick, therefore my first plank was fitted 2mm below the frames, a mistake I did not realise I had made until the first planking was almost completed. This problem was over come when the bulwarks were fitted I sanded them down to suit . After this first plank was fitted I then fitted the garboard strake. To ensure that the keel fitted snuggly to the garboard strake I temporarily fitted two 5mm spacers to the false keel.Before laying the garbord plank I soaked the rear end of the plank and then clamped it place on the frame to ensure the twist from about frame 8 sternwards was achieved. Both the first plank and the garboard plank were laid full length. Once these were laid I then measured each frame, both port and starboard, and recorded them. This would tell me the width of each plank at each frame. I then ran a series of planks aproximately 5 plank widths apart and left to lie naturally. These planks served two purposes one to form planking bands, and the second to show how the planks would run. The following pictures will hopefully explain it clearer

Hi Sjors, She is looking wonderful mate. I see you are up to my favortie part of the build, the rigging You have made a lot of progress on her since I last saw her. Keep up the good work

Hi Slog, Very nice work. I do like the stand you made for holding her square. I have just brought this model and hope to start it next year, maybe , after I have finished the Norfolk and the Pickle. Cheers Jeff

And some more photos I still have a lot of photos to sort through so I will post the next lot as I go through them. Thanks for watching.

Hello All, Thankyou John for taking a look. Before I go on with the building of the model I would like to make a few comments on the kit. The timber and fittings are of high quality as are the laser cut ply sheets and the instrucitons are easy to follow, the sheet palns supplied however are a bit dissapointing as they are not scale, but this is an older kit. I believe now the kit has been upgraded by the manufacturer and an instruction manual with colour photos and full size 1:1 scale plans are supplied, there is even a deluxe version for sale with copper bottom plates. Ok on with the construction. The first job was to identify and cut out all the bulkheads and keel, check that the keel was straight and the bulkheads were symetrical. I checked the symetry of the bulkheads using a method described in 'Ship Mdeling Simplified' a book by master modeller Frank Mastini. The method he uses is to trace each bulkhead onto a sheet of thin card and then cut it out, mark acentre line on the bulkhead and the card and the fold the card in half along the centre line making sure the outer edges are matched. Then place the folded card along the centre line marked on the bulkhead it wil show any of the edges need filing or the keel slot is cut out of centre. All of the bulkheads on my model were acurately cut and needed little adjustment. The next step was to check the bulkheads fit into the slots in the keel, again the fit of each was firm with little adjustment required. The only thing that needed to be done was a strip of 0.5mm timber had to be glued on the top of 4 of the bulkheads to bring them level with the top of keel. After gluing all the bulkheads to the keel, ensureing each one was held square to the keel as it dried, I then cut and shaped the bow filler blocks and glued them itno position. These were to be made from 2 limewood blocks supplied but I messed one of mine up and so I made my two blocks out of pine instead. I also inserted balsa filler blocksin the stern between frames 9 and 10 and the tramsom. I deviated from the instructions in the next two steps by fitting the mast filler blocks and the deck, the instructions tell you not tofit these until after the first planking is completed, but i felt that fitting them at this stage would make the structure more rigid while fairing the frames and laying the first planking. Follwing are some photos of the keel and bulkhead construction and the fairing of the frames. Any comments or criticism gratefully accepted

Hello Everyone, I have finally got around to start to reconstruct the build log for the Norfolk I had on the old site. I have done a search on this site and found that there are no current or completed build logs for the model on this site, that is if I have done the search right . I will endeavour to make this log as comprehensive as possible and hope it asssits anyone wishing to or currently building this model. I also wish to declare that a lot of the techniques and ideas I used were taken from an excellent and very instructive build log of this model, on the old site, by Dan Vad who also offered me a lot of advice during the build . Alright now for a little bit of history of the Sloop. She was built on Norfolk Island in 1798, designed probably on a decked long boat from HMS Sirus, she was subsequently confiscated when she sailed into Sydney Harbour as it was against Governor Hunter's orders to construct boats on Norfolk Island that Convicts could sieze and escape in. She was then fitted out, on the Governor's orders, and given to Lieutenant Matthew Flinders, accompanied by George Bass, to explore south to see if Tasmania, then Van Diemans Land was an island or not, having proved it to be an island she returned to Sydney to prepare for another voyage to the north, reaching as far as Hervy Bay in Queensland. She ended her days in 1800 after being wrecked in the mouth of the Hunter river in a storm after bieng siezed by Convicts in the Hawkesbury River, how ironic!! I started this build back in March 2011 and ther have been a few breaks in the build but I am happy to say I have been back building now for a couple of months and hope to continue until the completetion of the model. Following are some photos of the kit. Please excuse the quality as they were taken on a mobile phone as my digital camera at the time was having issues with my computer or visa versa Sorry about my foot in the first photo I will post some more photos of the start of the build tomorrow