dafi

Some small thoughts ... ... with 800 men crew and 6 seats we get this optimized calculation: 800 men (NCO) / 6 seats gives 133 men/seat In a optimized 24 hours use using all seats we get the following numbers: 24 hours = 1440 minutes 1440 minutes / 133 men = 10,5 minutes/man per day. This means no second wasted and the next user always stand by. If you take account of that not the whole day it is possible to have this steady usage because of time, scedules and weather, the usage time per person sinks dramatically. If I remember well, constipation was widely spread, which leads to longer men mean residence time. So the conclusion is, that the heads, regarding the weather, daytime and service schedule, could possibly be a quite crowded place at certain moments. This account only includes the "big business". There still would be some persons too to be expected at the heads for the "small business", if they are not preferring hanging out in the shrouds (leewards): One hand for the ship and one hand for yourself - now that line is finally understood. A quick research in German Law and regulations indicates the following: Puplic Law of the State of lower Saxony says for a leisure event of 800 visitors the calculation should be: 800:100 x 0,8 = 7 seated toilets and 800:100 x 1,2 = 10 urinals (always rounded) The Law of Working Spaces "Arbeitsstätten-Richtlinie, ArbStätt 5.037.1, vom 26. Juni 1976 (ArbSch. 9/1976 S. 322)" for 250 employes one needs 10 seated toilets and 10 urinals, that means more than double for 800 employees. In a converse argument that leads to the conclusion: For a working place the ship should have 5 times more seated toilets and this leads to - that by the number of seats - the ship must be a leisure event - Join the Navy - see the better world! Sehr geehrter Gruß, Ihr treuergebener Diener most sincerely, your humble servant, dafi

Okokok... Back to business. Did you already discover the other small detail? The netting? Ever since I bought it 18 month ago I was wondering how to fix it in a decent way. Quite rigid but still floppy, bad to paint, difficult to handle, in on word: a modellers dream ;-) But now I think I found my way. Taking the measures with templates ... ... transfer to cardboard ... ... glueing the tulle over it, making a frame out of 0,3 mm copper wire and fix it with CA. Taking my Citadel paints and give it a nice coat, this enhances the appearance of the material, three layers of different colors give a little bit of shading ... ... cut out ... ... and holy s... I changed the running direction of the material and got different looks :-( Ok, made new ones and sewed them on the proper way ... ... and it looks much better :-) By pulling a little bit on the right corners of the copper wire it also got slightly wavy to be not too even. So bye for now, Daniel

Mam, he is going to do something naughty again!!! ... and he already did it again ... What´s up now? In June 2010 he was all proud about then improved seats of ease ... ... but what did dafi, or better Heller think about the backside of John Bull??? Two sailors on there? Even the bucket is bigger. And how should the able seaman aim at these little holes even if he is a seat? And what about the not able ones ;-) Ok, carved new ones see the small but important increase of spacial capacity ... ... and looks much better like this :-) And it is even enough for two backsides side by side without the danger of being trailed for sodomy ;-) And in summer even with the shade of a cosy mariners walk. All the best, Daniel

After the slipway I managed to do my second big holiday monster: the rope walk ... simple wooden box, some cogwheel from Fischertechnik out of my dark juvenile past, 4 mm aluminum wire bent to hooks... ... the movable counter part and the runner ... ... some screws as guides for a 2,5 meter curtain rail ... ... and getting a range of crochet thread from the grandma shop in the city. And these are the results - the three brown ones (nr 2, 5 and 8 from the bottom) are the reference from Krick 0,3, 0,5 and 0,7 mm: Holy impatience, they are not yet dyed but I could not resist putting them in place to see how they react and look in place ... ... and, does not look too bad :-) The build was rather easy and simple. But now it will get tricky: Finding the right materials and the right way of using it concerning the right amount of twisting and tension. cogwheel - old stuff Curtain rail - old stuff Wood - 1,58 Euro Aluminum - 1,50 Euro Feeling - priceless ;-) All the best, Daniel

Instead of the mill, the jig can also be done by glueing separate spacers together. It is a package step-spacer-step-spa... Just make sure, hat the glue only goes where it belongs ;-) Daniel

... ok, what the hell is he doing now? ...aaaahhh ... transparent bits ... ... oh tricky, putting the drill stand onto a box to extend height and swinging the drill to the backside ... ... clever-clever, but now?!? ... ... acupuncture for the keel? ... do not want to see that. Now he is taking a cherry for drilling a 3 mm hole into the 4 mm false keel, clever like that the material won´t rip on the edges. But what for ??? AAAAAAAhhh, he is preparing a fairytale play: I remember the thing with the glass coffin ... ... Snow-Viccy and the 7 dafis ;-) So happy new year and always stay above the waterline :-) Amicalement, Daniel

... and now something completely different :-) The cannon balls I already presented quite a while ago, they came from here ... http://www.kugel-winnie.de/epages/62136757.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62136757/Products/010101003 ... and the blackening stuff from here: http://www.amazon.de/ShoXx-®-Brünierung-Schnellbrünierung-Kaltentfetter-Entwässerungsöl/product-reviews/B004CFHNHC/ref=sr_1_1_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 First one to take the grease off, second the blackening and the oil for dehydration ... ... first the degreasing ... ... used a magnet to take them out ... ... well dried ... ... and like Roger Rabbit back to the soup, the blue one for blackening ... ... luckily used old china as the stains remained :-) First I wanted to avoid the dehydration oil because of the glueing, but some of the balls turned brown :-( So same procedure as every year James, back to degreasing - the rust come of the balls but not off the china ... ... freshely blackned and oiled. Putted UHU Universal into a old syringe and gave nice injections ... ... uand placed the bullets :-) Used lots of glue but still some came off, the oxide is a ideal separation agent ... So then, good luck, Daniel

In a german forum I got a hint for a good source of cannon balls, all sizes: http://www.kugel-winnie.de/epages/62136757.sf/de_DE/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62136757/Products/010101003 ... and some blackening for stainless steel like this one: http://www.amazon.de/ShoXx-®-Brünierung-Schnellbrünierung-Kaltentfetter-Entwässerungsöl/product-reviews/B004CFHNHC/ref=sr_1_1_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1 First one to take the grease off, second the blackening and the oil for dehydration ... ... first the degreasing ... ... used a magnet to take them out ... ... well dried ... ... and like Roger Rabbit back to the soup, the blue one for blackening ... ... luckily used old china as the stains remained :-) First I wanted to avoid the dehydration oil because of the glueing, but some of the balls turned brown :-( So same procedure as every year James, back to degreasing - the rust come of the balls but not off the china ... ... freshely blackned and oiled. Putted UHU Universal into a old syringe and gave nice injections ... ... uand placed the bullets :-) Used lots of glue but still some came off, the oxide is a ideal separation agent ... So then, good luck, Daniel

Still worked on the template and made the middle groove larger for that I also can work the smaller stairs, now making them is real easy fun :-) I also was able to use the template for repairing: Cutting off a misglued step, putting the stair back into the template and fix a new step :-) The only tricky thing is the groove in the middle of the large stairs. Even well packed they like to bow up and then vibrate out of the vice. So well placed ... ... and held down by dafis patended steps downholder. And that´s the bounty of the last days ... ... cuties in every angle ;-) Daniel

Usually I like to work without machinery, but that time I had to bring out the heavy material: the Micromiller ... Putting in a block of Ureol, with an prepared angle according to the stairs.Distance of the steps 2,5 mm, as seen in the test before. CAD indicates a step in depth of 1,9 mm. And here we go with a 0,6 er miller for the gauge of the 0,5 mm steps ... ... and a groove for helping the ejection, and I champfered the edges to avoid problems with increeping glue. Then putting the steps in ... ... adjusting the sides, fixing with tape ... ... putting a stop for the bottom position of the lateral supprt, glueing ... ... and another nice shot for the family album :-) And as it came out pretty enough even a close up ... ... on the target area ... ... and once lifelike :-) Lieber Gruß, Daniel

... but I had difficulties with it. Status: Heller, V1 from the very start of the build and the V2 ... And here the planks of 0,5 mm x 2 mm that I prepared long time ago before I realised that the 6 maters mentioned at Mondfeld are far to small ... ... and on the right two tests for a right distance of steps: left 2 mm and right 2,5 mm, which looks right :-) And on the far right a first test with a new assembly technic :-) Looks right more soon. Liebe Grüße, Daniel

Hallo Phil, me too tried hard with the building of the stairs: As it is difficult to measure inside of the ship, I took a masking tape to take measures, so one can easily get it right after taking it out :-) Then glueing the treads onto tape ... ... to get all of them the right distance. Beside you can see V1 from the early beginning of the build. Regrouped vertically for the milling of the groove of the middle rib.. Made some templates for the assembly ... ... glued the treads ... ... and the middle rib. And there he stands my small worker and shaking his head upon the wrong proportioned stairs and sends the carpenter back to work ... At least, he tried to do his best, but it is a simple way and Reed manages to do great stairs with this technique ... All the Best, dafi

Still worked on the template and made the middle groove larger for that I also can work the smaller stairs, now making them is real easy fun :-) I also was able to use the template for repairing: Cutting off a misglued step, putting the stair back into the template and fix a new step :-) The only tricky thing is the groove in the middle of the large stairs. Even well packed they like to bow up and then vibrate out of the vice. So well placed ... ... and held down by dafis patended steps downholder. And that´s the bounty of the last days ... ... cuties in every angle ;-) So now you may call me MotS, Master of the Stairs ;-) Daniel

Usually I like to work without machinery, but that time I had to bring out the heavy material: the Micromiller ... Putting in a block of Ureol, with an prepared angle according to the stairs.Distance of the steps 2,5 mm, as seen in the test before. CAD indicates a step in depth of 1,9 mm. And here we go with a 0,6 er miller for the gauge of the 0,5 mm steps ... ... and a groove for helping the ejection, and I champfered the edges to avoid problems with increeping glue. Then putting the steps in ... ... adjusting the sides, fixing with tape ... ... putting a stop for the bottom position of the lateral supprt, glueing ... ... and another nice shot for the family album :-) And as it came out pretty enough even a close up ... ... on the target area ... ... and once lifelike :-) Lieber Gruß, Daniel

So I decided to go differently :-) Status: Heller, V1 from the very start of the build and the V2 ... And here the planks of 0,5 mm x 2 mm that I prepared long time ago before I realised that the 6 maters mentioned at Mondfeld are far to small ... ... and on the right two tests for a right distance of steps: left 2 mm and right 2,5 mm, which looks right :-) And on the far right a first test with a new assembly technic :-) Looks right more soon. Liebe Grüße, Daniel

Meanwhile I sent my small worker for a small dress up ... ... and it looks like he had done some hard working lately :-) And tried hard with the building of the stairs: As it is difficult to measure inside of the ship, I took a masking tape to take measures, so one can easily get it right after taking it out :-) Then glueing the treads onto tape ... ... to get all of them the right distance. Beside you can see V1 from the early beginning of the build. Regrouped vertically for the milling of the groove of the middle rib.. Made some templates for the assembly ... ... glued the treads ... ... and the middle rib. And there he stands my small worker and shaking his head upon the wrong proportioned stairs and sends the carpenter back to work ... At least, he tried to do his best ... All the Best, dafi

The missing carriges! The old question: First painting still on the sprue or first assembling? I decided to do like Alexander cutting the Gordian knot: First assembling and then painting on the sprue! Sounds easy? It is ;-) Flatend the ends of the axis ... ... used felt to take the scraps away ... ... and as my files were to big to take the paint off, I used a diamond miller in a drill handle ... ... and here they stand all proud waiting for a small white drybrush and their barrels :-) Daniel

Hello Klaus, nice to see you back here! Daniel

Some pictures from the finished job And to finish with the british pattern, the batten on the top edge. Have fun, Daniel

Hello Yon, happy to have this build back! I like it very much! daniel

Gary, great to see Alfred again!!! All the best, Daniel

Then at X-Mess, I kept up with this holey ship (got the pun? ;-) After scuppering around with the scuppers I transfered the 1765 sceme onto my 1805 version. Just added the visible sceme to the last unsure positions and was able to fit the needed 8 ones each deck and side. Here are the test holes for the 6,5" at the manger, 5.5" scuppers of the lower deck and 3.5" of the upper ones, here in scale 1,5 mm 1,2 mm and 0,8 mm. In MSW druxey reminded me that all openings should not be on top of the seams. This explained my question about the double scupper in the manger area that usually have different heights. And now come the holey ship: 54 holes including the two inlets on the bottom for the elm tree pump. First a little wellness programm including some acupuncture, then enlarging stepwise onto the 0,8 mm, 1,2 mm and 1,5 mm ... ... sometimes placing wrong and so replacing and sealing the wrong holes with sprue ... ... and always nicely avoiding the seams. That led me to replace the old eyebolts too that I positioned onto the seams and ... ... as by trying to get them out, already having nice tension on the tools, the bolt broke, the ship jumped to the side, the original thin Heller-stand gave way by splitting itself into two parts and with lots of good luck I just caught the ship before it could continue its dive from the gallery to the living room situated some 3 meters below! Take a small breath and to continue ... ... all around ... ... and thats what I researched for for more than 18 months ... ... but that was my own decision ;-) All the best, Daniel

A bigger research was for the scuppers, as the only ones shown on the Vic today is one on the manger area and the ones for the chain pumps in the middle of the side steps. Arming and fitting gives the number and sizes, but not the positions. It took me months to discover a contemporary model of a three decker showing those: The Vic as build in NMM. (Thanks for Chapman from the Bolitho-Forum) I got the right link: http://collections.nmm.ac.uk/collections/objects/66473.html So I managed to correct the layout a little bit: Green the ones that were identified on the model, blue the ones that I added following the logic. Daniel

And on we go, the fore :-) First grinding down all the hoops, reengraving all the inner edges, lenghening the rubbing paunch on the bottom ... ... but the biggest changes took place in the masttop: It got its taper towards the top ... ... the area inbetween the cheeks was rebuild, the assembly splitlines of the top were engraved, the clamp for the yard-sling fixed ... ... rebuild the battens, engraved the cheeks and the holes for the bolts. As reference always pictured with the main mast in its oob state. on the last picture one can see nicely the different angels of the masts on the angle of the trestletrees :-) Some more views ... And the spareparts box is happy about two new entries :-) Here still the dolphin striker: original and imitation. Lieber Gruß, Daniel Edit: For the protocol: The two black clamps are really fixed oob ;-)

Thank you B.E. for help with the fairlead collar and the gammoning fish. Lee was the right answer. Jim from MSW even recollected that Steel mentioned the fairlead collar in his 1818 publication. So ok, lets go ahead :-) And that is what came out: At Lee I found two other nice details: The leather inlay for the hole of the jibboom in the cap and the lead cover of the spritsail sling saddle to avoid it galling the bowsprit. Fixed the dolphin stiker with two hoops ... ... and the flag staff in its groove and the fitting. The bees finally got their right form and ... ... still added some eye bolts. And as I most probably will not need the flag jack staff in the final presentation ... ... it can be taken out :-) All the best, Daniel