dafi

Dear Sirs, before the yellow ochre and black stripes came into fashion in the Royal Navy and other countries, masy ships were paid in rosin, some more precisely in "bright" rosin. If I understand well this was a natural resin diluted with some sort of oil (linseed?) My question is aboiut the appearence: Was it a kind of reddish shade like violins today? Perhaps not as brilliant? And how was it looking after some time exposed to the elements? Washed out? Are there any contemporary sources or actual pictures about that? Thank you in advance, Daniel PS: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rosin

Good luck for your back and not just you is going mad waiting for news on this place! Daniel

if you believe, you could escape of that one so easily, you could be wrong. Do not forget, model making is a serious business ;-) As said before, some color tests were to be done on a casein base ... ... looking spectacular, but far too fooked up :-) The good thing on the casein paint is, take a wet cloth and just wipe and redo .-) Cheers, Daniel

And then some white priming and then the part I was most looking for - The color trials: And this could have given a nice first of April Easter nest :-) ...hihihihihi... XXXDAn

Great work !!! Love the courage to redo things! Have you tried fly-fishing threads? #4 Daniel

Me too, I am curious ;-) Next step already done: duplication :-) XXXDAn

Simply stunning and wonderful!!! XXXDAn

Thank you Druxey, I am shure it will proove interesting and fun to myself. But where does this lead? To the usual twists and confusions in dafis world of modelism :-) After the first coat of primer I left the can on the balcony, stupid idea, as the color got to cold ... ... which I was mad aware by an apart giraffe pattern on the model :-( So back to zero and take down the paint with the help of a scaler. ... reworked the splitlines ... ... and saw (PUN!) the results of this unexpected action. The scratching down the color left some rattling marks. One needs to be able to see and realise, but these rattle marks look very much like the marks of handsawn wood, also seen on older ships. I was already looking for a long time how to differenciate a painted steel hull from a painted wooden hull. I think with the slightly uneven levels of the different planks, the different dimensions of the gaps in between the planks and the rattle marks, I am coming quite close to the look I am looking for :-) And now we come to the typical dafinistic approach in model making: Destruction!!! ... hihihihihihihi... ... and hohoho, snailed around a bit ... ... rebuild the rails to slightly different dimensions ... ... and redoing the splitlines with the help of Dymo tape. ...hihihihihihi... XXXDAn

Next thing is mentioned neither in any book: The cutting is just one thing - the gluing is the bigger problem ... ... used some soft adhesive tape and tried to put it together with 0,5 x 0,5 mm toothless bars - looks nicely uneven ... ... so printed a 0.7 grid onto paper and used transparent double sided tape and a loupe to fix them together. Nice meditational work :-) So it is filling up: The caliper is set to 1.4 mm. And my little worker was so kind to lift one up to show the underneath :-) ... and the result is a cute 0.7 mm grating and soon I will be able to show where it will end up :-) My litte helper was so kind to lift on grating up to show the underneath: As promised, here is where the new gratings end up :-) Even the split into four parts can be seen :-) All the best, Daniel

... and believed the 1mm gratings from the shop still were too big for my purpose ... ... and so the tests began ... ... and her is the whole story ... Literature always indicates to use the circular saw with a small guide beside the blade. So far understandable and comprehensive and does not sound scary. A first test free hand prooved that my wood was suitable :-) Fastily changed the machine ... .... or not that fastily, because untill everything was adjusted to the 0.5 mm blade, the right hight of blade and suitable thickness of the guide, and smooth cutting worked, it took some time. But then putted stripes of 1.5 mm thickness to cut ... ... and it looked a little bit tattered, see the stripe in the front. So gave it some clear varnisch and the stripe startetd to bend in all directions :-( Used some plastic foil as a separation on the topside and clamped it against another piece of wood to let dry. And luckiely it came out straight and after the second time through the saw it looked clean, see the stripe behind :-) ... and this is the bounty: material for the next years to come :-) So came the next task: Cutting it into 0.5 mm bars without breaking its tiny teeth and without the bars disappearing in the machine. The latter was easily resolved with some tape. The first came out of the problem, that with the standard guide, the line was rubbing against the blade. So made a new shorter guide that releases the bars immediately ... ... adjusted the distance with a 0.5 feeler gauge ... ... and glued same sheet on the side of the wood to get the fingers further off the blade. So managed to cut nice bars :-)

Fixed on the display by a screw ... ... etch parts and new rails fitted ... ... and pictures we know from my Victory build like carving timberheads ... ... filling the badly drilled dead eyes ... ... making the chainplates ... ... the channels - at least one - ... ... new profiles and the first blow bigger of the project: the hull got new planks of better dimensions ... ... and a tad of color to see what I am doing. Happy Easter, Daniel

As a small Easter surprise, a small project I am working on to try out some things, just to see ... Small flash back: From my first casting trials, i had left a piece of formed resin ... ... uand it was saying "Hy" to me all the time 🙂 First the standards: out the scaler and eliminating the "wood"-grains ... .... thinning the backsides ... ... redoing the ports (middle) ... ... nicely to be seen from the back.

If I remember well, it was a while a feature of the royal navy for the plates to finish at an angle with a batten, while continental ships (and american?) preferred 1 to 3 layers of horizontal layers on the waterline. Is this correct? Daniel

Oh Popeye, you must be joking, me - being stuck on the lower gundeck now for about 4 years ... ;-) XXXDAn

:-) Thank you Sirs! Will try my best to keep you entertained. And Popeye, it was worth your work!!! XXXDAn

Love it!!! Daniel

Great research and great read!!! Love it :-) On another place we had a discussion about the dates of the first two ships of the class. HMS Cruizer 1797 HMS Snake 1797/1798 Wikipedia gives the ordering date of both vessels on 19 December 1796 and the launch for Snake 18 December 1797 and Cruizer 20 December 1797. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruizer_class_brig-sloop Two things: Many sources give the launch date for Snake in 1798 and also, if Snake was launched earlier, why is it not called Snake Class? Any information about these mysteries that are most possibly linked? Thank you, Daniel

Hello Robin, please do not regret as it was great input :-) I added Thomas Ender´s in the earlier picture, thank you for the hint! There is a second similar picture existing which also shows this wealth of great details that you mentioned. Thank you all for your replies and to make me feel not to be the only one being interested to the side topics of historical seamanship! Daniel

Thank you B.E. and ST, yes, this is a fitting on a french build frigate and maintained by the austrians in an italian style ;-) XXXDAn

Just was posting this picture in another place and realised the hammocs on this drawing of Thomas ender of 1817 on the austrian frigate Austria Also diagonally as shown in the models.. Nice to see the lashings. Daniel

Exactely, but do consider, there are no guns on the poop ... It would mean to climb over the not too stable hammock cranes and nettings, and then - standing on this flexible structure - still having to cross the gap as the shrouds are more outwards. Does not sound too practical. On top of it, there are often the boats of the side davits being secured/lashed to the mizzen shrouds, which makes the passage there rather tricky. In the picture of the first entry of this thread one can see two small jacob ladders attached to the main shrouds coming down to the deck. A very logical thing to have. The earliest proof I found was this picture of 1817. It would be logical to be introduced much earlier. Are there earlier signs of this? Cheers, DAniel

Working on the hammock cranes of my 1805 Victory, I was surprised by the heights. Most of them chin-level, just enough to put a gun onto, but even difficult to shoot downwards. On pictures it is easy to see the hight of the cranes especially at the side of the poop stairs. One question arose: How did they enter the main and mizzen shrouds ?!? Did they already have jacobs ladders as seen some years later? Especially the mizzen shrouds, that still had the davids and the boats lashed onto? Austrian fregate Austria 1817 on its way to Brasil. Daniel

After trying first all the difficult parts, I took the hammock cranes for easy play. Drill holes, plug and play :-) Not too exciting ... ... worked well so far, as expected. On the thin rail at the end of the waist the cranes go down to the deck ... ... the poop´s edge with it´s different cranes ... ... and holy cow ....: There are some cranes left in the plate!?! Where were they from?!? Looked and searched and found the black ones on the poop rail to be wrong and too short :-( Put the right one beside but looked strangely high ... ... what´s wrong ?!? Called for Mr Wright and it was immediately clear, what was wrong:. The height of the higher cranes on the rail is wright, It prooved the cranes on the poops side being too low, pictures of the Vic and McKay confirmed ... ... so I can redraw that area of the plates to gain some 4 mm. Just to make sure, I did send Mr Wright to the other cranes and rails ... ... but it looked good over there :-) Amicalement, Daniel

It was quite common by the artists to exaggerate the height of the decks :-) Nicely to be seen on the painting of Nelon´s Death ... But a lot of details can be noticed and if one takes the lowest common divisor it gives an idea about how it could have been. XXXDAn

Here are some scetches out off NMM: http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/103234.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/126522.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/126516.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/200175.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/127873.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/127877.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/127878.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68390.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68393.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/68396.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/86681.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/83237.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79886.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/79887.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/108967.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/127888.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/127865.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/66743.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/200768.html http://collections.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/12610.html Daniel