zoly99sask

Yes good plan EJ.
Learning is part of the seasoning. This particular "issue" won't happen with my next build. I will certainly do as you suggest also looking at all rigging sheets.
I wonder if the "pin" rigging problem that I had is only particular to Corel instructions?. Though I assume that kits at this level the instruction writers assume that "we know what we are doing" (:-) and would be aware of needed pins later on...
 
That aside, now working on the shroud ratlines for the lower main (first time here as well) So with eight strands clover hitched, realized that rows were not aligning horizontally with the platform above. Though I thought that I had figured this bit in with the first lower row. And, of course, the expert that I am, I glued many of the knots so as not to have then loosen later. HA HA. So had to unstring all the rows and start all over again. Luckily none of the main shrouds were damaged,
 
So learned NOT to glue anything until all rows up to the platform are attached. Then I can use tweezers for minor spacing adjustments. THEN glue. Having fun - good learning going on here as well.
 
Cheers,

Those belaying pins are great at hiding on the drawings. I have missed several myself but luckily, so far, I have caught them before getting buried.
 
I have found with my set of Corel plans that I have to lay down multiple pages to get the full scope of what is needed for each line of rigging. One page may show the path from the mast or yard, another the close ups of the seizing and a third where it secures to on the deck. While I am getting used to this process now, it took many long and confusing hours to make sense of it all!
 
Glad you were able to fix it without too much trouble!

Hi Mates,
 
Got myself into a bit of a mess. As I’ve mentioned this is my second build. My Santa Maria so many years ago, by comparison, was a walk in the park, even for me a first time builder.
 Well as I have been really learning so much about rigging this Vasa I realize now, in retrospect, that I had/have very little foresight.
 
 For example; I installed the knights with cross-bits at the base of the foremast and main, without thinking ahead. I was happy that I had learned how to use the Proxxon to make slits for the sheaves. And let it go at that – happy to install. Even added nails in the cross pieces to “look” better.
 
So, now, looking ahead at the Corel rigging plans I realize that the cross-bits also needed pin holes (a lot of them) It took the THIRD, and last Corel rigging page to point this out to me (a learner) grrrrr. There was no way that I could drill these fourteen holes at this point.
 
Thought that I could wiggle the knights free and pull them up through the weather deck. The first set install they were just glued into place on the weather deck. When I built new ones with the sheaves I also cut holes through the deck and ran the new knights to the deck below.
They were not “going anywhere” curses. Then thought that I would just tear out the two cross pieces and make new ones, but was nervous about those cross bit nails.
 
Turns out the nails were only decorative and the cross bits just snapped off using small pliers.
 
=====================
 
Sharing because I’m super relieved, and in case another builder misses this foresight as I did as a newbie.
 
Cheers Mates sorry for the long prose. Ok time for a single malt – I think ha ha

 
 

Our Admirals often have more common sense about them than we like to admit.

EJ,
 
Thanks for your correct thoughts. I came to the same conclusion. I would also regret it as well – on the back-side.
=================
Then (ha ha) decided to speak directly with the Admiral, - go right to the top- explaining all of the extra work that this would require, with the same results. I was told, with an unceremonious response to “return to work, or I would be put into the brig”.
 
It was then also pointed out to me why, after so many years I am still pounding nails, cutting planks, hanging shrouds instead of enjoying tea in a captain’s quarters; Low energy seamen…..it turns out is my fate.
 
Cheers,
 
 

I would think that in practice there would be discrepancies in exactly how ropes were tied off from crew to crew based on the instructions from the bosun. I would think though that while differences would be found between ships, that the same practice would be used throughout the same ship. So I would say, stick with the way you have started so they all look the same the same. Unless your bosun was killed in action and replaced midway through by another who wanted to change the existing practices... 

Mates.
More FYI
 
Also the very cold, blackish, very low levels of damaging ultraviolet light, and low salt content of the waters of the Baltic Sea within Stockholm Harbor minimized the amounts of sea life that would normally consume the ship.
Over the centuries the silt kept rising around and protectively covering the ship as well. And the heavily polluted 17th century water also prevented an infestation of wood-eating “shipworm” parasites.
 
Ironically enough the Vasa is today facing a potential “second death”. It is very slowly decaying inside the museum.
 
Copied/pasted:
 
In 2000, signs of deterioration sprang up on the ship’s surface. A new study published July 6 in Biomacromolecules shows that the ship’s wooden hull has significantly weakened, due to decay of the wood’s structural fibers. The Vasa wood is about 40 percent weaker than regular oak wood, and has become very acidic.
“We found a very clear connection between low pH, high degradation, and a large decrease in mechanical strength,” said study co-author Ingela Bjurhager, a mechanical engineer at Sweden’s University of Uppsala.
 
More copied/pasted:
 
In 2004, the museum upgraded its climate-control system to keep the relative humidity stable, as fluctuating humidity could lead to changes in the shape and weight of the ship. Efforts are also underway to replace the corroding steel bolts that were inserted in the ship during the 1960s with improved stainless steel ones.
The Vasa does not have an immediate risk of structural failure, the researchers concluded. Still, the ship deforms a few millimeters every year. Given the extent of the wood atrophy, “It’s sort of a little bit too late to do anything,” said Bjurhager, who is focusing instead on preventing further deformation. Her team is currently working on a computer model of the ship so they can design a new support structure.
 
 
 
 

Hi Mates,
 
Continuing with the mizenmast shroud rigging as a “test start”. This area is all new to me. Ratlines look ok – but will get better. Yes - as has been SO noted very repetitive indeed. And I’ve barely started. So;
 Removed those totally wrong futtock plates and added hooks (to be painted flat black).
 But the following bit is confusing; need to think this bit out.
 Installed the first futtock stave. Should be tarred, but left it as is just to highlight details. But here is where is gets more involved.  I believe that my futtock shrouds are too large. Should have used a smaller diameter rope. Attaching these three shrouds to the stave will make for too “thick” a look (after spooling/tying these to the shrouds).
I think that I will remove a strand from each at the point of attachment; then wrap them over the staves. Also note the 1/10th photo (during its construction) it appears that these shrouds should also be split and attached in two places. Noted that this photo is for the main mast. Hmmm. I will do that for the center of the three shrouds that I am presently working on. 
 Then again, I may (since I have to remove all of those lower cap plates just re-rope these first three and start again. Just sharing my frustrations (J)))
 
Cheers,

 

Hi mates,
 
Anton T, and costeo - You are so kind –thanks so much for your thoughts
 =======================
 Almost back-to-back updates, this one is small but there was a lot of needed learning. This small bit took almost four hours to figure out and execute. Hmmmm.
 Decided, rather than removing the already attached Futtock shrouds (used Chuck’s .018s his .012s would have been too thin.
 --------------------------------------
 So did the following
 1-2) unspooled the center futtock shroud at the stave. Wrapped it around the stave separating the three “threads, then re spooled them between the shroud to add a bit of glue at the joint.

 
3) removed the third ply from the shroud and attached one to each side of the shroud at the ratline.

 
4-5-6) did the same for the other two end shrouds also removing one strand. After wrapping around the shroud scale “looked” ok.

 
7-8-9) secured the mizzen backstay.

 
10-11) Now onto the lower mainmast shrouds, BUT the dilemma starts. Looked at the 1/1 for guidance, for the mizzen shrouds, then noticed the 1/10th where the work looked much neater then “finally saw” the difference. Hmmm?

 
12-13) went back to my picture bible (what I have been modeling so far. Then read/looked at Anderson – either way it seems is “ok”.

 
 
Certainly the 1/10th method would be so much less work, but having already done all the topmasts, the bowsprit area, and the mizzen on one side the Peterson way – I will probably need to continue with the extra work for all of the lower shrouds.
 
PS: I’m not even totally comfortable with the work that I have done tying off the ropes around the shrouds - so dilemma indeed. I assume that ALL “finishing off” as Anderson calls it should be the same for the entire ship?
 
PS: Part of the problem is that I used lines that are probably too large for this area. Though the museum 1/1 seems to use a “thick” rope. Again hmmm
 
As always thanks for your kind thoughts and visits,
 
Cheers,
 

Welcome to the wonderful of "re-do's" or "do-overs".     It pretty much seems to be a way of life around here.  

EJ,
 
Nice she will certainly sail in 017 (;-)
 
CHeers

Had a few productive evenings and topped out the fore mast along with stays and shrouds. With the top gallant in place the fore mast is ready for yards. Next I get to repeat this process for the main mast top gallant and then the mizzen top mast. Fortunately these masts are rather simple and the rigging is minimal at this level so they are going relatively fast. I plan on topping out all three masts before switching back to S.R. so more updates soon!!
 
I will also take some better pictures on the next update. Didn't really see that it was kind of fuzzy until I posted. Eyes are getting tired though I cannot imagine why....

I looked at this during my build and I finally settled on RB32mm guns and the 15mm for the Swivels.
However, the 29mm look fine as well on the carriage, and once they are all together along the broadside I don't think they will look undersized, I just preferred a slightly chunkier look.

This is the comparison I made when deciding on my build, and as you can see the Syren version is finer still than the RB 29mm.
 
B.E.
 

This is the RB 29mm cannon on the kit carriage, I think it looks OK, would appreciate any thoughts/advice.

Second planking so far with a bit of sanding. Tried to keep same tones above the waterline.

Pic of Trincomalee

Yes just an example of the start, I'm using a flat permagrit tool

Not up to this stage as it's well documented in other posts, I'll show the chamfering , I'm probably stating the obvious, the chamfer allows the plank to butt up tight to the last plank laid

Ahoy Gents
                       Here is a fresh build I went to my vast stash pile and rooted this one up I had this kit since 1962 one of Billing boats first kits the Crabincutter was the first kit. I decided it is best to start this one to finish the wood in the kit is starting to dry out if I let this kit sit another few more years the wood will crumble way. Thus far in the construction the keel and formers are dry fitted and trimmed finally the structure is glued together and let dry 24 hours next will be the tedious planking. My wife loves this one so you got to keep mama happy.
Frankie Day

Friday, March 24, 2017
 
I completed the installation of the prow and poop floor timbers. Here I've also left some timbers removable in order to show the underlying parts.
I've also installed two side stringers.
 
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Regards, Jack.

Tuesday, March 28, 2017
 
A new small step forward: I have corrected a blunder that I discovered in the execution of the two floor decks at bow and stern. Now these two "decks" have the right length, 'cause before were too long, although on the plans there aren't the two small lateral extensions which unfortunately I could not totally eliminate.
I hope that the replica shipbuilders will forgive me. For me this detail introduces an aesthetically improved element [cursing] [cursing] [cursing] 
 
Previously I installed, not without some difficulty, the two side counterwales. Unlike the stringer, the engravings on the counterwale are two. Now I became a master in its execution. When the boat will be completed with the so-called "falke", there will be three wales/counterwales per side, two outside of the hull, one inside.
 
Now it's time to study in deep the assembly instructions in cojunction with the plans to setup a proper planning for the next steps.
They are not so obvious . .
 
Salutoni, Jack.
 
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A small update - decided I might as well mount the stern lanterns,so I made some side braces from some .8mm brass rod & glued them all in place. Next ,I cut & shaped all the stunsail yards. The stunsail irons were made from some brass & copper tubing & they were fitted on the stunsail yard with .8mm brass rod. I made caps for the end of the yard out of thin copper strip. They were attached at a 45 degree angle from the center of the yard I only have the fore topsail yard completed,so 3 more to go. The irons around the yard was made from black card stock.
 
Mark
 
 

 

 

 

Well,I decided I didn`t like them either,so I pulled them off & painted the panes black. A ship in port with no sails set would probably not have the lanterns lit anyway. The liquid glass I used never did dry right & looked a bit foggy.
 
Mark

Well,after spending the better part of the day applying a wash to all those gold decorations,I think there is a real improvement to them. The first picture is before & the next three are after applying the wash. They actually look better in person than my cheapo camera shows.
 
Mark
 

 

 

 

A small update - all the yards are now built. Next I will be adding the necessary blocks & ropes to the masts & yards before permanently mounting them to the ship.
 
Mark